WEBVTT - Lab-grown diamonds: Are they really better for the planet?

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<v Speaker 1>You're listening to a CNA podcast.

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<v Speaker 1>They say diamonds are a girl's best friend, but they've

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<v Speaker 1>gotten a reputation for being the environment's enemy to combat.

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<v Speaker 1>Not just the reputation of the harm that mining diamonds

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<v Speaker 1>does to people in the earth. Lab grown diamonds have

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<v Speaker 1>become popular over the years. The best part, unless under

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<v Speaker 1>the most trained eye, no one can tell the difference.

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<v Speaker 1>But are they really as environmentally friendly as they claim

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<v Speaker 1>to be

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<v Speaker 1>my guest today is Ryan Sherman, the co-founder and chief

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<v Speaker 1>alchemist at Ether Diamonds in the US to find out

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<v Speaker 1>if lab grown diamonds can help combat climate change. Welcome, Ryan,

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<v Speaker 1>thanks for having me.

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<v Speaker 1>First of all, I will wonder what got you into

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<v Speaker 1>the world of lab grown diamonds. Well, early in my career,

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<v Speaker 1>I had spent some time working in the jewelry industry,

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<v Speaker 1>developing products for an international jewelry brand based in New

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<v Speaker 1>York City, David while I was there and familiarized myself

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<v Speaker 1>with the diamond supply chain.

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<v Speaker 1>And it was at that point when I started to

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<v Speaker 1>feel conflicted about how it was, you know, the industry

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<v Speaker 1>at large was sourcing their gemstones fast forward in about 2018,

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<v Speaker 1>it was, we conceived the idea of making diamonds from

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<v Speaker 1>captured Co2

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<v Speaker 1>and it was gratifying in that this new approach could

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<v Speaker 1>address issues that I struggled with as a professional working

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<v Speaker 1>in the industry. And this was an exciting opportunity to

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<v Speaker 1>step back into an industry that I rather liked and

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<v Speaker 1>appreciated and drive real change. So Ryan give us a

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<v Speaker 1>brief history of lab grown or manmade diamonds. And when

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<v Speaker 1>did lab grown diamonds really take off and why commercially

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<v Speaker 1>lab grown diamonds have really had their

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<v Speaker 1>moment in just the last half a decade. That said

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<v Speaker 1>the first lab grown diamonds were first produced in the

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<v Speaker 1>19 fifties and it was actually General Electric who had

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<v Speaker 1>a team of engineers who successfully cracked the code for

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<v Speaker 1>replicating the process by which we see diamonds formed deep

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<v Speaker 1>inside the earth through high pressure and high temperature. Today,

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<v Speaker 1>chemical vapor deposition is the leading technological solution for producing diamonds.

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<v Speaker 1>Just tell us what does it take to get the

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<v Speaker 1>carbon out of the air and walk us through what

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<v Speaker 1>it takes to turn the lightest thing on earth air

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<v Speaker 1>into one of the earth's hardest, which is diamonds. The

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<v Speaker 1>first step in the process is to capture the co

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<v Speaker 1>two through direct air capture from there, we convert it

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<v Speaker 1>into a usable material. In our case, methane, we call

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<v Speaker 1>this atmospheric methane. So we combine co two with green

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<v Speaker 1>hydrogen to create CH four which is methane gas that

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<v Speaker 1>methane gas is then injected into the diamond reactor.

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<v Speaker 1>It is hit with a microwave, much like what you

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<v Speaker 1>find in your kitchen just much more powerful and the

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<v Speaker 1>hydrogen excites into a plasma state. So the C four

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<v Speaker 1>that's in the chamber separates the carbon that was in

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<v Speaker 1>the CH four starts to fall to the bottom of

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<v Speaker 1>the chamber, almost like snowfall and it lands on top

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<v Speaker 1>of small pieces of diamond called seeds. And from there,

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<v Speaker 1>it attaches to the diamond crystal and continues to follow

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<v Speaker 1>that pattern.

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<v Speaker 1>And after about a month's time, that piece of crystal

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<v Speaker 1>has now grown to almost a large piece of rough diamond.

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<v Speaker 1>They call it that can be core out to the

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<v Speaker 1>size of a seven millimeters to a side, eight millimeters

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<v Speaker 1>to a side.

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<v Speaker 1>And from there it goes through the traditional cutting and

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<v Speaker 1>polishing process and we're left with beautiful gem diamonds. And

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<v Speaker 1>that entire four step process takes roughly about four months.

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<v Speaker 1>How much energy are we talking about? So, the diamond

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<v Speaker 1>growing process in a chemical vapor deposition reactor requires roughly

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<v Speaker 1>10 kilowatts of energy. Um perhaps a little bit more,

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<v Speaker 1>we source renewable energy. So although we acknowledge it's a

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<v Speaker 1>significant amount of power, we are sourcing our power responsibly

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<v Speaker 1>and we do this through solar.

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<v Speaker 1>And this gives us the opportunity to use those clean

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<v Speaker 1>electrons to turn something that is warming the planet into

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<v Speaker 1>something that warms the heart. We also have a third

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<v Speaker 1>party certified carbon negative footprint. So that means for every

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<v Speaker 1>diamond we produce, there's less carbon in nature than there

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<v Speaker 1>was before. That's a good thing. And frankly, we have

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<v Speaker 1>strong protocols across the board as a company with respect

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<v Speaker 1>to ESG and it's paramount that everything that we do

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<v Speaker 1>is as responsible as possible. You know, our mission as

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<v Speaker 1>an organization

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<v Speaker 1>is to decarbonise industries that would otherwise be contributing to

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<v Speaker 1>global warming and climate change, but doing it in a

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<v Speaker 1>way that benefits not only the planet but people as well.

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<v Speaker 1>So how much co two from air is being extracted for,

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<v Speaker 1>let's say a carat diamond. So the end to end

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<v Speaker 1>process is fairly efficient. There are not a lot of losses. Ultimately,

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<v Speaker 1>a diamond is 100% carbon. So you can simply map

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<v Speaker 1>that carbon

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<v Speaker 1>to what is coming out of the atmosphere almost on

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<v Speaker 1>a 1 to 1 basis. If we were growing, say

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<v Speaker 1>a five carat gemstone that comes from a larger piece

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<v Speaker 1>of rough material, you can generally multiply that by about

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<v Speaker 1>five to get your rough material amount. Once it's turned

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<v Speaker 1>into solid carbon, it's never going back into the atmosphere.

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<v Speaker 1>And ultimately, that five carat piece of material comes from

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<v Speaker 1>say a

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<v Speaker 1>total of 25 carats of rough material. And uh that's

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<v Speaker 1>about 5 g of CO2. So in each stone, there's

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<v Speaker 1>not a whole lot of carbon, the net impact when

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<v Speaker 1>you compare this to say the need for mining a

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<v Speaker 1>diamond from the ground or growing a lab grown diamond

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<v Speaker 1>using fossil methane, which is the traditional feedstock. The avoidance

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<v Speaker 1>of the negative externalities associated with those products is

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<v Speaker 1>where the impact comes from. So Ryan, how sustainable are

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<v Speaker 1>lab grown diamonds compared to, you know, naturally created or

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<v Speaker 1>mined diamonds? So when we mine a diamond from the ground,

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<v Speaker 1>we have to dig very large holes in the ground.

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<v Speaker 1>Some of these can be as wide as half a

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<v Speaker 1>mile visible from space and those mining sites are never

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<v Speaker 1>really remediated. It's not like they're back filling the mine and,

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<v Speaker 1>and all of the tailings that are dredged up from

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<v Speaker 1>deep inside the earth, they're left on the surface where

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<v Speaker 1>rain falls on them and ultimately heavy metals and other

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<v Speaker 1>contaminants that are in those tailings do leach into the groundwater.

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<v Speaker 1>There obviously is a well documented history of human rights

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<v Speaker 1>abuses associated with the production of mine diamonds

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<v Speaker 1>on the converse. You have lab grown diamonds which avoid

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<v Speaker 1>some of those challenges, especially from an environmental perspective. We

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<v Speaker 1>don't have to dig the big hole in the ground.

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<v Speaker 1>We don't have to deal with, you know, mine tailings

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<v Speaker 1>leaching really bad materials into water that either the local

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<v Speaker 1>flora and fauna rely on or you know, perhaps even

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<v Speaker 1>human beings.

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<v Speaker 1>The kind of sin of omission that occurs in lab

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<v Speaker 1>grown diamonds is people often don't think about where the

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<v Speaker 1>carbon comes from. So although we're growing diamonds above ground,

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<v Speaker 1>the carbon used to make them still comes from inside

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<v Speaker 1>the ground. So largely the industry has just swapped one

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<v Speaker 1>harmful extractive process for another harmful extractive process. So Ryan,

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<v Speaker 1>let's address a common question that many people are asking

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<v Speaker 1>are lab grown diamonds, real diamonds.

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<v Speaker 1>So at the end of the day, a lab grown

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<v Speaker 1>diamond is 100% crystal and carbon. It's at an atomic

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<v Speaker 1>level identical to what comes out of the ground. This

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<v Speaker 1>is not a cubic Circon, this is not a moisten,

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<v Speaker 1>this is in fact a diamond in every conceivable way.

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<v Speaker 1>Even in the United States, the Federal trade Commission has

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<v Speaker 1>changed the rules for what needs to be said as

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<v Speaker 1>we talk about manmade diamonds. These do not even need

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<v Speaker 1>to be called synthetic anymore. Whereas

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<v Speaker 1>the word synthetic was a requirement that rule changed just

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<v Speaker 1>a couple of years ago and we see a general

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<v Speaker 1>acceptance here in the US market and there was a

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<v Speaker 1>recent report that upwards of about a third of engagement

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<v Speaker 1>rings sold in 2022 utilized lab grown diamonds, centers stones.

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<v Speaker 1>When we started this company in 2018, that number was

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<v Speaker 1>less than 1%. So the rate at which consumers are

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<v Speaker 1>adopting lab grown diamonds

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<v Speaker 1>is increasing year over year, what has changed so largely education,

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<v Speaker 1>you know, consumers in the beginning didn't quite know what

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<v Speaker 1>they were dealing with. There was a large education hurdle

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<v Speaker 1>that kind of needed to be crossed. And consumers largely

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<v Speaker 1>understand now that these are man made and they come

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<v Speaker 1>from a laboratory. But they are, in fact, diamonds quality

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<v Speaker 1>lab grown diamonds are indistinguishable by eye. Even the world's

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<v Speaker 1>best gemologist

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<v Speaker 1>can't tell that a high color, high clarity lab grown

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<v Speaker 1>diamond is not a natural stone. It requires expensive equipment

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<v Speaker 1>in order to perform the test. You know, early on

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<v Speaker 1>many retailers anticipated that people would simply spend less money

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<v Speaker 1>and get the same stone that they would have gotten otherwise.

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<v Speaker 1>And in fact, the opposite is happening. We're seeing consumers

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<v Speaker 1>continuing to spend the same amount of money, but to

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<v Speaker 1>go to lab grown and get a bigger diamond.

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<v Speaker 1>So they're getting a bigger diamond from a better, you know, frankly,

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<v Speaker 1>more human friendly and more environmentally friendly supply chain without

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<v Speaker 1>some of those, you know, human rights concerns and environmental concerns.

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<v Speaker 1>And at the end of the day, it's indistinguishable.

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<v Speaker 2>Hello, my name is Steve Lai and I'm Theresa Tang

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<v Speaker 2>wherever you get your podcasts,

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<v Speaker 1>there's going to be fewer and fewer diamonds available because

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<v Speaker 1>we've already exhausted what half of the world's diamond supply.

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<v Speaker 1>So will natural diamonds continue to hold monetary value better

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<v Speaker 1>than lab grown diamonds? What are your thoughts? So the

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<v Speaker 1>price differential between a lab grown diamond,

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<v Speaker 1>a mine diamond varies greatly depending on who you buy

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<v Speaker 1>it from. Generally speaking, you're going to see a lab

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<v Speaker 1>grown diamond sell for maybe about 30% the cost of

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<v Speaker 1>its mind counterpart. So for the same color, same carrot weight,

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<v Speaker 1>same clarity, you're getting a lot better value for what

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<v Speaker 1>you're spending.

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<v Speaker 1>Peak diamond output happened in 2017. Every year from here

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<v Speaker 1>on out, fewer and fewer stones will be pulled from

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<v Speaker 1>the ground. And I think that's a net positive for

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<v Speaker 1>humanity and for planet earth. But with that reduction in supply,

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<v Speaker 1>the laws of supply and demand dictate that maybe that

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<v Speaker 1>actually helps support pricing. With that said, the rate of

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<v Speaker 1>acceleration of lab grown diamonds is starting to eat into

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<v Speaker 1>the market share of mine diamonds in a way that

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<v Speaker 1>I don't think a lot of people anticipated. And this

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<v Speaker 1>is not driven purely by the fact that it's a

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<v Speaker 1>better value by

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<v Speaker 1>getting a larger stone for the budget, but also driven

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<v Speaker 1>by environmental concerns. These are things that we've learned, speaking

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<v Speaker 1>to consumers and ultimately, we feel that that is going

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<v Speaker 1>to accelerate beyond the rate of decline of mine diamonds.

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<v Speaker 1>I think younger consumers by and large understand that they

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<v Speaker 1>don't need to support these archaic extraction practices anymore. That's

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<v Speaker 1>very interesting. How about, you know, when we say diamonds

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<v Speaker 1>for the longest time, the aspect on scarcity also the

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<v Speaker 1>rarity made people to desire or cray for the,

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<v Speaker 1>what would you say to those that, you know, the

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<v Speaker 1>sense of romanticism shall I say is sort of removed

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<v Speaker 1>in the lab or devoid in the lab? I think

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<v Speaker 1>that's a fair criticism of lab run diamonds. Frankly, it's

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<v Speaker 1>a criticism I've made myself on numerous occasions. I don't

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<v Speaker 1>think that it maps to what we do and I

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<v Speaker 1>think that's where we have some competitive advantage in the market.

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<v Speaker 1>You know, there's no geographic limitation to where we can

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<v Speaker 1>pull our carbon from. There's nothing stopping me from extracting

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<v Speaker 1>co two from the air in Paris and introducing Parisian diamonds.

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<v Speaker 1>You know, mapping this to your personal love story as

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<v Speaker 1>a consumer plays into kind of this trend of hyper

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<v Speaker 1>personalization that we're seeing across a number of consumer markets

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<v Speaker 1>and from their major markets around the world. There are

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<v Speaker 1>areas where we'll be looking to capture CO2 that we

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<v Speaker 1>can use to produce regional diamonds. You know, we don't

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<v Speaker 1>have to go where these diamond deposits underground exist. We're

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<v Speaker 1>not limited to parts of Africa or Russia or Canada,

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<v Speaker 1>we can do this globally. And that really brings an

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<v Speaker 1>interesting

0:11:42.900 --> 0:11:46.309
<v Speaker 1>marketing and merchandizing opportunity into the fray that we think

0:11:46.320 --> 0:11:49.210
<v Speaker 1>people in markets all over the world will appreciate. So,

0:11:49.219 --> 0:11:52.179
<v Speaker 1>what's Ether's goal within the next 5 to 10 years?

0:11:52.190 --> 0:11:54.150
<v Speaker 1>How do you plan to achieve it? So our goal

0:11:54.159 --> 0:11:58.909
<v Speaker 1>goes far beyond diamonds, diamonds, we consider merely our first act. Ultimately,

0:11:58.919 --> 0:11:59.289
<v Speaker 1>if you think

0:11:59.390 --> 0:12:04.650
<v Speaker 1>what we're doing, we're turning air pollution into an upcycled hydrocarbon.

0:12:05.109 --> 0:12:07.299
<v Speaker 1>So we envision a future where we don't need to

0:12:07.309 --> 0:12:10.979
<v Speaker 1>extract hydrocarbons from the ground. Rather, we can develop an

0:12:10.989 --> 0:12:15.630
<v Speaker 1>extractive industry around pollution and turning pollution into climate solutions.

0:12:15.640 --> 0:12:15.799
<v Speaker 1>And

0:12:16.049 --> 0:12:18.940
<v Speaker 1>our goal would be to bring our atmospheric methane to

0:12:18.950 --> 0:12:21.869
<v Speaker 1>a wide range of different industries that utilize methane gas

0:12:21.880 --> 0:12:25.030
<v Speaker 1>as a chemical feedstock as an ingredient, methane can be

0:12:25.039 --> 0:12:27.270
<v Speaker 1>used to make quite a lot of things. So our

0:12:27.280 --> 0:12:29.770
<v Speaker 1>goal is to proliferate the technology across a number of

0:12:29.780 --> 0:12:33.630
<v Speaker 1>different industry, verticals and different sectors and different geographies and

0:12:33.640 --> 0:12:37.750
<v Speaker 1>ultimately decarbonise the world's industries by getting rid of fossil fuels.

0:12:37.760 --> 0:12:40.979
<v Speaker 1>There are those who are quite skeptical about this sequestration,

0:12:40.989 --> 0:12:43.700
<v Speaker 1>removing carbon from the air. What would you say to them?

0:12:43.969 --> 0:12:48.450
<v Speaker 1>There are fair criticisms. Carbon capture technologies, especially direct air capture,

0:12:48.460 --> 0:12:54.020
<v Speaker 1>ambient capture of CO2 is relatively expensive, comparable to other

0:12:54.030 --> 0:12:57.900
<v Speaker 1>climate solutions. And for me, this was the big aha

0:12:57.909 --> 0:13:00.459
<v Speaker 1>moment you can take that carbon and bury it under

0:13:00.469 --> 0:13:03.419
<v Speaker 1>the ground where hopefully it stays for a very long time.

0:13:03.809 --> 0:13:07.439
<v Speaker 1>But then you're losing half the opportunity. Ultimately, if we know,

0:13:07.450 --> 0:13:09.849
<v Speaker 1>products are made with methane and we know we can

0:13:09.859 --> 0:13:13.439
<v Speaker 1>make methane with captured CO2 to not do that is

0:13:13.450 --> 0:13:18.239
<v Speaker 1>tacitly supporting the further continued extraction of hydrocarbons from the ground.

0:13:18.710 --> 0:13:20.809
<v Speaker 1>So if we have this usable material and we fail

0:13:20.820 --> 0:13:23.890
<v Speaker 1>to utilize it, we're making a grave mistake. And that's

0:13:23.900 --> 0:13:26.200
<v Speaker 1>really where we come in. And because diamonds as a

0:13:26.210 --> 0:13:29.500
<v Speaker 1>product have favorable unit economics, it allows us to be

0:13:29.510 --> 0:13:32.488
<v Speaker 1>somewhat cost insensitive to the upfront cost of the direct

0:13:32.500 --> 0:13:35.640
<v Speaker 1>air capture. In the beginning when we were sourcing CO2.

0:13:35.650 --> 0:13:36.140
<v Speaker 1>From our first,

0:13:36.465 --> 0:13:40.674
<v Speaker 1>we were spending over $10,000 per ton of CO2. That's

0:13:40.684 --> 0:13:43.084
<v Speaker 1>a lot. If you compare that to the cost of

0:13:43.094 --> 0:13:45.265
<v Speaker 1>pulling one ton out of the air through, you know,

0:13:45.275 --> 0:13:49.584
<v Speaker 1>planting trees, it pales in comparison, but that was ok

0:13:49.594 --> 0:13:52.085
<v Speaker 1>for us because with one ton of CO2, we can

0:13:52.094 --> 0:13:54.994
<v Speaker 1>make many, many diamonds and then you can take that

0:13:55.005 --> 0:13:57.103
<v Speaker 1>10,000 plus dollar sum of money

0:13:57.289 --> 0:13:59.679
<v Speaker 1>and advertise it across all of those stones and the

0:13:59.690 --> 0:14:03.400
<v Speaker 1>per carat contribution was less than $10. So even if

0:14:03.409 --> 0:14:06.000
<v Speaker 1>the cost of direct air capture went to zero, it

0:14:06.010 --> 0:14:09.559
<v Speaker 1>really wouldn't fundamentally change our unit economics. And that made

0:14:09.570 --> 0:14:13.449
<v Speaker 1>us especially early on relatively cost insensitive. And those are

0:14:13.460 --> 0:14:16.510
<v Speaker 1>characteristics that you need to see when new technologies are

0:14:16.530 --> 0:14:19.820
<v Speaker 1>being developed. You want to see cost curves come down,

0:14:19.830 --> 0:14:21.940
<v Speaker 1>you want to be able to see those technologies mature

0:14:21.950 --> 0:14:23.000
<v Speaker 1>and we believe that

0:14:23.080 --> 0:14:25.299
<v Speaker 1>we could play a role in helping bring those cost

0:14:25.309 --> 0:14:28.349
<v Speaker 1>curves down starting in diamonds and ultimately across a number

0:14:28.359 --> 0:14:31.669
<v Speaker 1>of industries, Brian. Before I let you go, just looking ahead,

0:14:31.679 --> 0:14:34.210
<v Speaker 1>what do you think the future will hold for lab

0:14:34.219 --> 0:14:36.859
<v Speaker 1>grown diamonds? And what do you think will matter when

0:14:36.869 --> 0:14:39.109
<v Speaker 1>it comes to diamonds in the future? One of the

0:14:39.119 --> 0:14:41.820
<v Speaker 1>things I'm quite excited about is we are probably a

0:14:41.830 --> 0:14:45.179
<v Speaker 1>year or two away from seeing lab grown diamonds make

0:14:45.190 --> 0:14:48.030
<v Speaker 1>up the majority of engagement rings sold here in the

0:14:48.039 --> 0:14:48.789
<v Speaker 1>US market.

0:14:49.030 --> 0:14:52.760
<v Speaker 1>This is no longer, you know, some small esoteric piece

0:14:52.770 --> 0:14:54.590
<v Speaker 1>of the industry. It's going to be the majority and

0:14:54.599 --> 0:14:57.270
<v Speaker 1>that's going to happen soon. And frankly, if you look

0:14:57.280 --> 0:15:01.309
<v Speaker 1>at consumer trends over indexing for sustainability for the supply

0:15:01.320 --> 0:15:03.869
<v Speaker 1>chain transparency, those are things that matter to an increasing

0:15:03.880 --> 0:15:07.159
<v Speaker 1>number of consumers. So we're starting to see that ball

0:15:07.169 --> 0:15:08.799
<v Speaker 1>rolling in the European market,

0:15:09.469 --> 0:15:12.640
<v Speaker 1>whispers of an increasing willingness to buy lab grown in

0:15:12.650 --> 0:15:15.039
<v Speaker 1>parts of Asia as well. So we're very excited to

0:15:15.049 --> 0:15:17.940
<v Speaker 1>continue to see the market mature for lab grown diamonds

0:15:17.950 --> 0:15:20.239
<v Speaker 1>and see consumers the world over start to accept them

0:15:20.289 --> 0:15:23.159
<v Speaker 1>exciting times ahead, Ryan. Best of luck to you. Thank

0:15:23.169 --> 0:15:25.049
<v Speaker 1>you so much for joining us today and shedding light

0:15:25.059 --> 0:15:28.559
<v Speaker 1>on this fascinating world of lab grown diamonds. Thanks so much. Well,

0:15:28.570 --> 0:15:29.570
<v Speaker 1>thanks to my guest

0:15:29.750 --> 0:15:32.760
<v Speaker 1>Brian Sherman and thanks to all of you for tuning in.

0:15:32.950 --> 0:15:36.349
<v Speaker 1>We hope you enjoyed this episode. Do remember to subscribe

0:15:36.359 --> 0:15:38.789
<v Speaker 1>and like this podcast. So, you know, when the new

0:15:38.799 --> 0:15:42.289
<v Speaker 1>episode drops, we, we will be going on a season break.

0:15:42.299 --> 0:15:44.690
<v Speaker 1>We'll be back in August. But in the meantime, you

0:15:44.700 --> 0:15:48.590
<v Speaker 1>can find the CNAs climate and sustainability coverage online at

0:15:48.599 --> 0:15:52.460
<v Speaker 1>CN A dot asia. The team behind this podcast is

0:15:52.469 --> 0:15:57.320
<v Speaker 1>Joan Chen, Jacqueline Chan and Christina Robert and I'm Julie

0:15:57.330 --> 0:15:58.559
<v Speaker 1>Yu signing off.