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Speaker 1: So you're listening to a MoMA Mia podcast. Mama Mia

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Speaker 1: acknowledges the traditional owners of land and waters that this

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Speaker 1: podcast is recorded on Makeup is My Therapy. I'm in love,

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Speaker 1: I'm obsessed and I don't even feel jailty about it.

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Speaker 2: Hello and welcome to you Beauty, the daily Podcast for

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Speaker 2: Your Face. I'm Arin Dougherty, and you're listening to the

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Speaker 2: Formula the Skincare Show while we sit down with celebs

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Speaker 2: and experts and we chat all things skin. Ubi's what

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Speaker 2: if that high tech skincare gadget you've been eyeing off

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Speaker 2: that promises those clinical level results is just an overpriced gimmick.

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Speaker 2: All worse, you've been using something that actually does more

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Speaker 2: harm than good to your skin. Today, I'm sitting down

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Speaker 2: with one of Australia's top dermatologists, Doctor Leona Yip, Director

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Speaker 2: of Skin Partners and a leading expert in skin and

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Speaker 2: hair health. She bridges science in and public education, cutting

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Speaker 2: through the noise to help us stop wasting money on

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Speaker 2: things that don't work. We've had so many requests to

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Speaker 2: investigate at home skincare devices, so in this episode, we're

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Speaker 2: gonna break it all down which ones are worth your

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Speaker 2: time and cash, and which are nothing but expensive gimmicks.

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Speaker 2: Doctor Yip is giving us the expert verdict, so you

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Speaker 2: don't have to learn the hard way. From nine hundred

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Speaker 2: dollars led masks to those forty dollars wash our tools.

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Speaker 2: Here's everything you need to know before dropping a heap

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Speaker 2: of cash on at home devices.

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Speaker 1: You are such beautiful, skilled but how doctor Yip, thank

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Speaker 1: you so much for coming on the show today.

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Speaker 2: It's so great to have you all the way from

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Speaker 2: sunny Brisbane.

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Speaker 1: Thank you for joining us, Thank you for having me.

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Speaker 1: I don't think I've done a podcast with you before.

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Speaker 1: Erin's were quite excited.

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Speaker 2: I'm really excited because we were just talking before, how

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Speaker 2: we saw each other at an event a couple of

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Speaker 2: years ago. Now we've been planning this for ages, so

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Speaker 2: I'm so glad you're finally here.

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Speaker 1: You had just got married then and now you're expecting

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Speaker 1: your first child.

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Speaker 2: Yes, all the things have happened in between, and I'm

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Speaker 2: so excited to have you here. As you know, the

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Speaker 2: home beauty device market, we've got you on the show

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Speaker 2: today to talk us through this confusing world is absolutely

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Speaker 2: exploded in recent years. I'm so excited to pick your brain.

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Speaker 2: Let's get into it. Tell me, are microcurrent facial toning

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Speaker 2: devices like I know new Faces are really popular brand

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Speaker 2: on the market. Are these actually effective when it comes

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Speaker 2: to things like skin tightening and elasticity? And are they

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Speaker 2: worth the price tag?

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Speaker 1: So this one is an interesting one because this microcurrent

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Speaker 1: facial turning divis pretty expensive. This one that you've mentioned

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Speaker 1: in New Phase Trinity is eight hundred and seventy two dollars.

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Speaker 1: It claims to tone facial muscles for skin tightening, to

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Speaker 1: reduce wrinkles, and lifting. But when our phase ages, the

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Speaker 1: main drivers are changed in your fat, your bone, and

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Speaker 1: your skin. And it's still quite controversial about how much

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Speaker 1: muscle shrinkage or muscle weakness contribute to changes in your

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Speaker 1: facial skin when you age, So it's quite debated. Toning

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Speaker 1: and strengthening muscles alone, I think would likely be of

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Speaker 1: modest benefit without addressing these primary drivers first. And the

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Speaker 1: other thing is also while some facial muscles may shrink

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Speaker 1: and weaken over time, some others will become bulkier and stronger,

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Speaker 1: and that's when you get more ringles like when you

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Speaker 1: smile and when you frown and your jaw caanching muscles.

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Speaker 1: Your macedus also become bulkier over time, and I have

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Speaker 1: the problem where it squares my jaw and it makes

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Speaker 1: me look older, and a sharper jawline is the definition

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Speaker 1: of a more youthful appearance in these cases. So strengthening

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Speaker 1: some of these muscles will not be a good idea.

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Speaker 1: And that's why some people have muscle relaxing treatments to

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Speaker 1: relax these muscles rather than strengthening it. So for me,

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Speaker 1: this microcaron infacial tning device. I read on TikTok somewhere

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Speaker 1: and on the internet that they're being compared to the

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Speaker 1: effects of botox, but it's not. They work polar opposites,

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Speaker 1: so shouldn't be confused. I think this device is a

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Speaker 1: miss for me.

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Speaker 2: That's that's so true what you said about it being,

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Speaker 2: you know, marketed as a botox alternative. Yes, and it's

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Speaker 2: so interesting that you've just said it's actually exactly the opposite.

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Speaker 1: So there you go.

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Speaker 2: Tell me about your professional opinion on facial cleansing devices. Now,

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Speaker 2: there are tons of these out there. An example is

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Speaker 2: the Foreo lunar cleansing device. Do these provide any benefits

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Speaker 2: over manual cleansing or could they damage your skin further?

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Speaker 1: And I actually really love it as a cleanser. I

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Speaker 1: love that gentle vibration. It's silicon, it's non abrasive, it

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Speaker 1: doesn't cost trauma to the skin, and it's great to

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Speaker 1: use it for a gentle massage and also just to

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Speaker 1: dislodge makeup that stuck into deeper skin creases and deeper

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Speaker 1: skin pores. So it's also good for people with sensitive

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Speaker 1: skin with minimal risk of irritation. But to use it

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Speaker 1: and to claim that it is firming device, I think

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Speaker 1: that's a little bit which I think there would be

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Speaker 1: a very modest benefit. So I think as a cleanser

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Speaker 1: is a hit, but as a firming device, I'd say

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Speaker 1: it's a miss.

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Speaker 2: Okay, love it, so it's good, but obviously just watch

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Speaker 2: for whatever skin type you have.

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Speaker 1: I think it would be suitable for sensitive skin, but

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Speaker 1: I wouldn't rely on it as affirming device.

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Speaker 2: Let's talk about LED therapy masks. I think there's eleventy

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Speaker 2: million of them on the market. I get fed so

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Speaker 2: many of them every day while I'm scrolling on social media.

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Speaker 2: Tell me, is there solid evidence behind their effectiveness, particularly

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Speaker 2: when you know you're spending more money on devices like

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Speaker 2: there a body You've got, you know, doctor Dennis Gross,

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Speaker 2: current Body, omni Lux. There's so many brands on the market,

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Speaker 2: and then there's obviously the cheaper end, where yeah, there's

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Speaker 2: more affordable LED masks. What's your take on these?

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Speaker 1: I remember led mass took off during COVID, and I

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Speaker 1: in COVID I was a fan because many people could

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Speaker 1: get to clinics to do stronger clinic treatments, and people

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Speaker 1: wanted something at home that's quite gentle that may help

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Speaker 1: with the skin redness or irritation from face mars and

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Speaker 1: things like that, and I thought it was a great

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Speaker 1: idea then. But since then there have been so many brands,

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Speaker 1: so many devisors with different settings, different iranians which means

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Speaker 1: a difference power output, and different shapes, whether or not

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Speaker 1: they come with eye protection, and just so many options

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Speaker 1: that it's really confusing. So firstly, as a dermatologist, I

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Speaker 1: do have an in clinic LED machine that's a lot stronger,

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Speaker 1: but I don't use it as a standalone rejuvenation treatment

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Speaker 1: because on its own, I think it's quite gentle for

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Speaker 1: those people who are after what I would call entry

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Speaker 1: level rejuvenation with no specific concerns, then these home masks

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Speaker 1: may be useful to sue for skin help with irritation

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Speaker 1: genle rejuvenation by stimulation of collagen when hearing processes. But

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Speaker 1: if you have more advanced changes that you'd like to treat,

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Speaker 1: like wrinkles or pigmentations, some damage, or skin poorest, then

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Speaker 1: it's likely not going to work. It usually would have

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Speaker 1: to be combined with stronger inclinic treatments with your dermatologists,

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Speaker 1: like lasers or chemical pills and good skincare. The home

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Speaker 1: LEDI therapy mass are a lot lower powered, and that's

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Speaker 1: why it's really difficult to know whether or not they

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Speaker 1: will live up to the claims of doing what they

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Speaker 1: say they would. So, for example, the home led mass

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Speaker 1: output would range anything between thirty to seventy five milliwards,

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Speaker 1: but in clinic the machines would be anything between forty

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Speaker 1: to one hundred and fifty, so it can be a

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Speaker 1: lot stronger and that's why it does work better. My

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Speaker 1: message is if you would like to use it at home,

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Speaker 1: I'd say yes, it is a hit. If you can't

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Speaker 1: get to clinic for stronger treatments because of batistics of travel,

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Speaker 1: or say after laser treatments where you want to address

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Speaker 1: post laser rednets or to address wound healing, then it's

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Speaker 1: a great option. But if you're going to use it

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Speaker 1: for gentle rejuvenation, it has to be used frequently for

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Speaker 1: the effects at least through to four lights of week.

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Speaker 2: Coming up to my wedding, I remember I was using

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Speaker 2: it nearly every second day and I did notice a

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Speaker 2: lot of great results, but again just more rejuvenated skin.

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Speaker 2: It didn't send away any wrinkles or you know.

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Speaker 1: A Yeah, I think it's a gentle entry level treatment,

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Speaker 1: but I wouldn't rely on it for anything more advanced.

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Speaker 1: It's quite relaxing. It's quite nice because you know, you

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Speaker 1: have that scary mask on. You can't do anything else.

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Speaker 1: You can't look at your phone and you can't read,

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Speaker 1: so it gives you that time out, which is another

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Speaker 1: good thing about it.

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Speaker 2: To talk to me about blue light acne ones, I've

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Speaker 2: used these before. There's a few, you know, cheaper ones

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Speaker 2: that you can get at the chemist. I think there's

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Speaker 2: like a Nutrogena one, but they are also more expensive

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Speaker 2: ones like the light stem and that's like over four

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Speaker 2: hundred dollars.

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Speaker 1: What are your.

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Speaker 2: Thoughts on this? Do these actually help with treating breakouts?

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Speaker 2: And if you're looking to invest in something, are these

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Speaker 2: worth investing in?

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Speaker 1: I'm really tempted to say there's nothing to see here.

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Speaker 1: Let's move on, okay, tell me that I think it's

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Speaker 1: a myths is a no from me, And the reason being,

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Speaker 1: these blue light acne ones are actually quite again, quite

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Speaker 1: gentle and quite modern in the power output. Acne is

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Speaker 1: not that simple. It deserves our respect. It's not just

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Speaker 1: about the blue light killing the bacteria on our skin

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Speaker 1: p acneys that cause acne, But the underlying cause of

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Speaker 1: acne is grease production. So we need to control skin

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Speaker 1: oid production. We need to treat the skin information, and

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Speaker 1: we need to treat clock cause we need to break

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Speaker 1: down the skin debris, the keratin, the oils in the pause.

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Speaker 1: So there's a lot of component to acne formation that's

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Speaker 1: not being addressed by this simple blue light acne Wand

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Speaker 1: and if we're gonna invest our money in acne treatments

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Speaker 1: or if you want to use this, if you've got

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Speaker 1: one or two spots really mild acne, that's okay. But

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Speaker 1: for people with more persistent acne or widespread acne and

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Speaker 1: persistent acne also means even if you have one spot

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Speaker 1: or two spots and you think, oh, it's really mild,

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Speaker 1: but it gets persistent. It can also cost carring and

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Speaker 1: these ones would likely require medical therapy. See better off

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Speaker 1: going to the pharmacy getting good acne skincare products with

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Speaker 1: active ingredients like burns are peroxides. Unless the acid or

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Speaker 1: retinoids gypolic acid niacinemite, that would be more value for

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Speaker 1: your money because they would actually address the underlying causes

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Speaker 1: of agneque better. So it's a miss for me this one.

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Speaker 2: That's some really good advice there. Save people from spending,

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Speaker 2: you know, hundreds of dollars on something that's not going

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Speaker 2: to really tackle the core issue.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Speaker 2: Tell me a little bit about this one, because I

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Speaker 2: feel like I've had so many experts on the show

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Speaker 2: and there's so many varied opinions on this. At home

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Speaker 2: micro needling safe or dangerous?

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Speaker 1: Very good question. So this can be a hit and

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Speaker 1: it can be a miss as well. So firstly, to

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Speaker 1: understand how micro needling works for skin rejuvenation. It creates

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Speaker 1: micro trauma to the skin by creating microchannels, so the

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Speaker 1: surrounding skin which is not injured can regenerate in the

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Speaker 1: wood healing process to stimulate more collagen and to help

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Speaker 1: with when healing, and at the same time it tightens

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Speaker 1: your purse. It helps it collagen for skin tightening to

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Speaker 1: improve skin tone, fine lines, and texture. Micro kneeling is

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Speaker 1: also great in the immediate two to four hours, depending

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Speaker 1: on what device you use, because when the microchannels stay open,

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Speaker 1: it absorbs your skin care better, so it's a good

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Speaker 1: time to apply your serums and your skin care to

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Speaker 1: help with absorption. But there is a caveat. You have

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Speaker 1: to be cautious because your face, the thickness of your

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Speaker 1: skin would defer depending on where it is you're treating.

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Speaker 1: So it's thinner around your eyelids obviously, it could be

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Speaker 1: thinner around the temples and on the forehead. The micro

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Speaker 1: needing deobliss. Mostly you can't adjust the depths of the needles,

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Speaker 1: so it's really difficult for consumers who are not savvy

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Speaker 1: or who are not aware of different skin thickness or

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Speaker 1: what they're treating, to know how to adjust and what

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Speaker 1: debt to go, what forced you so you can get

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Speaker 1: trauma to the skin like bleeding, infections, scarring, pigmentation and redness,

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Speaker 1: and that's the CABT you have to be careful. Or

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Speaker 1: if you're not an experienced skin person or someone who's

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Speaker 1: used as devices, I think it's better that you avoid

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Speaker 1: that to avoid skin trauma. Otherwise, if you've got an

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Speaker 1: experienced user or you have a microkneailing device, the depth

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Speaker 1: can be adjusted follow the instructions to make sure you

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Speaker 1: don't traumatize your skin. So again, it can be a

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Speaker 1: hit or a miss depending on the caveats.

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Speaker 2: And I think a lot of people might see stuff,

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Speaker 2: you know, on social media and then you know, buy

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Speaker 2: a kit and as you said, not really know how

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Speaker 2: to use it and not know enough about their skin.

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Speaker 2: If someone like me with sensitive skin using an at

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Speaker 2: home microneedling device is probably not going to be a

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Speaker 2: good time. So that's some really really great advice there.

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Speaker 2: I want to ask you about black head suction tools

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Speaker 2: because these have been out for ages. I remember using

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Speaker 2: one like eight ten years ago m hm, and it

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Speaker 2: kind of messed my skin up a little bit. Are

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Speaker 2: the these effective or are they just damaging to your skin?

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Speaker 1: I think it depends on whether you're after that instant

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Speaker 1: gratification of seeing black heads being sucked out, because it's

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Speaker 1: just something really satisfying about that. And if you love it,

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Speaker 1: go for it. But it's not going to reduce the

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Speaker 1: formation of black heads. So if you think that using

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Speaker 1: these suction tools can reduce the formation of the carrot

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Speaker 1: in plucks in your paws, you will be disappointed. It's

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Speaker 1: almost like you can compare it to pulling out weeds

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Speaker 1: without treating the soil, so the weed keeps coming back,

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Speaker 1: so all you're hearing is damage control. That's it. So

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Speaker 1: if you like to do it because your paws are

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Speaker 1: a little bit and large and your black heads are

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Speaker 1: quite visible, for a cosmetically more pleasing appearance than great,

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00:13:55,905 --> 00:13:59,105
Speaker 1: But if you do have plenty of black heads and

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Speaker 1: that's related to acne, because black heads can be a

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Speaker 1: form of acne, then it's not going to be a

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Speaker 1: suitable option for you.

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Speaker 2: So I guess it's similar to poor strips in a way.

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Speaker 2: You get that instantification, but.

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Speaker 1: Yeah, it's glorified device fasts.

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Speaker 2: Tell me a little bit about your take on those

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Speaker 2: ultrasonic skin spatulas. I don't know if you've seen these before.

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Speaker 1: No, I had to google this to know what they were.

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Speaker 2: Yes, okay, so I've seen them, you know, used in

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Speaker 2: different skin treatments and everything for exfoliation. Are these, as

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Speaker 2: you know, a professional? Are these a gimmick or are

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Speaker 2: they a genuine skin care tool that you would use

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Speaker 2: or would recommend other people use.

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Speaker 1: I think this would be one of those that I

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Speaker 1: would consider a variation of some other device that's already

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Speaker 1: there and something's just changed. So it is marketed as

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00:14:50,305 --> 00:14:54,745
Speaker 1: a standalone different device. It uses our crasonic sound wave

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Speaker 1: vibrations through this flat metal specula head that you have

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Speaker 1: to move along your skin with some sort of friction.

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Speaker 1: It's like genderly scraping dirt and debris off. So it's

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Speaker 1: again it's gratifying because you see, oh my god, there's

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Speaker 1: this skin, there's this stuff came out from my skin.

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Speaker 1: But the fact is that a lot of people would

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Speaker 1: use more forces because you just don't know how much force,

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Speaker 1: and because it's so modifying, it feeds into your psyche

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Speaker 1: that you're just going to keep doing it. And by

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Speaker 1: scraping your skin no matter how gently, with this, I

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Speaker 1: think it might have higher risk of causing skin trauma,

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Speaker 1: bit of redness and irritation, So particularly with those people

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Speaker 1: who are of darker skin tones where you're more prone

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Speaker 1: to pigmentation. If you're a little bit more forceful, you're

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Speaker 1: not quite sure what you're doing, you can also cause

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Speaker 1: problems with skin discolouration artfort. So I would say it's

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Speaker 1: a no for this one because essentially it's a form

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Speaker 1: of mechanical skin exfoliation, which we don't tend to recommend

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Speaker 1: for the face. We like more chemical skin exfoliation, which

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Speaker 1: is a lot less traumatic.

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Speaker 2: At home IPL devices. How effective these.

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Speaker 1: I can talk an hour about this, fear because hell

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00:16:00,065 --> 00:16:02,185
Speaker 1: off is my subspecialty, so I have a lot to

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Speaker 1: say about this. We'll keep it really brief. So firstly,

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Speaker 1: dermotagists like to use the term laser hair reduction or

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00:16:09,705 --> 00:16:13,825
Speaker 1: IPL hair reduction rather than hair removal. So the term

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00:16:13,905 --> 00:16:16,905
Speaker 1: that is used to market these devices are not accurate

307
00:16:16,945 --> 00:16:19,865
Speaker 1: because if you call it IPL hair removal, it makes

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00:16:19,865 --> 00:16:21,585
Speaker 1: it sound more like, oh, it's permanent, but it's not.

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Speaker 1: All it does is it reduces hair growth, but it

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Speaker 1: doesn't stop it, so you need continuous treatments, maintenance treatments.

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Speaker 1: So there is a difference obviously between the IPL hairybubble

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00:16:32,505 --> 00:16:35,585
Speaker 1: devices that you use at home with laser hair reduction

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00:16:35,865 --> 00:16:39,665
Speaker 1: done professionally in clinics, obviously, because it'll be less powerful,

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Speaker 1: that's effective less reliable. But it's important to know the

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00:16:42,905 --> 00:16:46,065
Speaker 1: difference between IPL and lasers to begin with, and this

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00:16:46,145 --> 00:16:48,785
Speaker 1: is what many people don't know. So IPL stands for

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00:16:48,865 --> 00:16:53,465
Speaker 1: intense pulse light. It uses a non selective spectrum of light,

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00:16:53,505 --> 00:16:56,705
Speaker 1: almost like a camera flash. It targets pigment in the

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00:16:56,785 --> 00:17:00,225
Speaker 1: hair follicle deeper in the skin, but because it's not selective,

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Speaker 1: it also targets pigment on the surrounding skin, and because

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00:17:04,625 --> 00:17:07,265
Speaker 1: of that, there's higher risk of skin injury because it's

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Speaker 1: so non selective compared to laser, where it's a more

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00:17:10,705 --> 00:17:13,545
Speaker 1: concentrated beam of light that can be more precise. It

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00:17:13,545 --> 00:17:16,385
Speaker 1: goes deeper to target hair for liqual pigment deeper, but

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00:17:16,665 --> 00:17:21,305
Speaker 1: it spares the more superficial surrounding skin to create less

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00:17:21,385 --> 00:17:25,065
Speaker 1: risk of skin injury and burns. The people who are

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Speaker 1: using IPL home devices to remove or to reduce facial

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Speaker 1: hairs or body hairs. If you are of darker skin,

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00:17:32,865 --> 00:17:35,985
Speaker 1: tyrant I would suggest that you avoid using this. You're

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00:17:36,065 --> 00:17:38,585
Speaker 1: much better off going to a professional clinic to get

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Speaker 1: this done properly with a proper laser machine.

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Speaker 2: Let's move on to Guasha tools because you probably have

333
00:17:52,345 --> 00:17:53,665
Speaker 2: seen these everywhere as well.

334
00:17:53,865 --> 00:17:55,105
Speaker 1: I love the Guandfa tools.

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00:17:55,185 --> 00:17:57,585
Speaker 2: You love them, okaya. I love when you love something.

336
00:17:58,025 --> 00:18:01,065
Speaker 2: Is there evidence to support the kind of benefits associated

337
00:18:01,105 --> 00:18:01,945
Speaker 2: with these tools?

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00:18:02,145 --> 00:18:05,545
Speaker 1: Gwasha too is a traditional I think it's a Chinese

339
00:18:05,625 --> 00:18:09,145
Speaker 1: medicine tool that's been used for decades. I prefer the

340
00:18:09,225 --> 00:18:11,505
Speaker 1: Jake one to them metal once, and they're usually quite

341
00:18:11,545 --> 00:18:15,225
Speaker 1: funky shaped moon shade or heart shape or whatever, and

342
00:18:15,625 --> 00:18:17,865
Speaker 1: it's got this funky shape so you can shape it

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00:18:17,905 --> 00:18:20,945
Speaker 1: and contour it to your face, and that's why it's

344
00:18:21,025 --> 00:18:25,145
Speaker 1: quite good to help massage and to remove puffiness or

345
00:18:25,305 --> 00:18:27,665
Speaker 1: a bit of fluid retention on your face to make

346
00:18:27,705 --> 00:18:29,345
Speaker 1: it a little bit more chisel when the fluid, as

347
00:18:29,465 --> 00:18:31,545
Speaker 1: you gets dispersed with the tool and you can put

348
00:18:31,545 --> 00:18:33,705
Speaker 1: that in the fridge so when it's cold, it helps

349
00:18:33,705 --> 00:18:35,945
Speaker 1: you reduce the swelling even more and it can help

350
00:18:35,985 --> 00:18:38,225
Speaker 1: you reduce a bit of redness that people may get

351
00:18:38,305 --> 00:18:40,705
Speaker 1: as well. So I love this as a massage device,

352
00:18:40,865 --> 00:18:44,585
Speaker 1: particularly to get fluid off the face. I'm not sure

353
00:18:44,625 --> 00:18:47,585
Speaker 1: about using that for collagen remodeling or anything that I've read.

354
00:18:47,625 --> 00:18:48,585
Speaker 1: I don't think it does that.

355
00:18:49,105 --> 00:18:52,065
Speaker 2: So it's great for those, you know, instant benefits. Waking

356
00:18:52,185 --> 00:18:54,265
Speaker 2: up in the morning, your face is feeling a bit spollen.

357
00:18:54,625 --> 00:18:57,465
Speaker 2: It's great for kind of quantouring and everything like that.

358
00:18:57,825 --> 00:19:00,105
Speaker 1: Yes, that's right, but no long term benefit.

359
00:19:00,705 --> 00:19:05,305
Speaker 2: Let's talk about infrared scalp massage brushes. Now, I know

360
00:19:05,625 --> 00:19:08,945
Speaker 2: you work a lot in the scalp health and everything

361
00:19:09,025 --> 00:19:11,985
Speaker 2: like that. Are there any kind of benefits you've seen

362
00:19:12,225 --> 00:19:15,985
Speaker 2: from hair growth or scalp health. Because the market for

363
00:19:16,065 --> 00:19:19,385
Speaker 2: people who are struggling with hair loss, postpartum hair loss,

364
00:19:19,465 --> 00:19:23,265
Speaker 2: or you know, hair loss in general, you're absolutely swarmed

365
00:19:23,345 --> 00:19:27,945
Speaker 2: with so many different modality devices, treatments. What's your take

366
00:19:27,985 --> 00:19:28,185
Speaker 2: on this?

367
00:19:28,505 --> 00:19:31,025
Speaker 1: It's going to be a miss for me. Firstly, the

368
00:19:31,705 --> 00:19:35,425
Speaker 1: use of infrared wavelength to stimulate hair regrowth, it's still

369
00:19:35,545 --> 00:19:39,185
Speaker 1: quite controversial and it may offer modest benefit. There's been

370
00:19:39,185 --> 00:19:41,825
Speaker 1: some papers about this, but I wouldn't rely on that.

371
00:19:41,985 --> 00:19:45,305
Speaker 1: If you're going through significant hair shedding or significant hair thinning,

372
00:19:45,585 --> 00:19:47,985
Speaker 1: I think you'll be disappointed. But again, if you're using

373
00:19:47,985 --> 00:19:51,945
Speaker 1: it for an entry level hair rejuvenation treatment, as a

374
00:19:51,985 --> 00:19:54,505
Speaker 1: feel good treatment you maintain your hair health, then go

375
00:19:54,625 --> 00:19:56,025
Speaker 1: for it. But I don't think it's going to do

376
00:19:56,145 --> 00:19:59,905
Speaker 1: much to restore your hair density or to reduce your shedding.

377
00:20:00,385 --> 00:20:05,385
Speaker 2: Are at home hydrodermabrasion devices? Are these safe and effective?

378
00:20:05,585 --> 00:20:09,825
Speaker 2: And what should our ubis know before purchasing these? An

379
00:20:09,865 --> 00:20:12,585
Speaker 2: example of this is that there's a hydro pen on

380
00:20:12,625 --> 00:20:15,865
Speaker 2: the market. It's called hydro Pen H six Advanced Serum

381
00:20:15,945 --> 00:20:20,585
Speaker 2: Infusion micro Needling Pen with Light Therapy, and that's four

382
00:20:20,625 --> 00:20:22,265
Speaker 2: hundred and seventy dollars.

383
00:20:22,945 --> 00:20:26,065
Speaker 1: Tell me, well, I don't think it's worth what it is. Again,

384
00:20:26,225 --> 00:20:29,225
Speaker 1: this is a variation of a microneeding device, and what

385
00:20:29,265 --> 00:20:31,985
Speaker 1: they've done is just put in a little feature of

386
00:20:32,225 --> 00:20:34,425
Speaker 1: hang on. We're just going to put red led in

387
00:20:34,465 --> 00:20:36,865
Speaker 1: there so it looks like you're getting a bit more rejuvenation.

388
00:20:37,305 --> 00:20:40,945
Speaker 1: But then it's a really small power led output that

389
00:20:40,985 --> 00:20:44,185
Speaker 1: probably won't do much at all. And it's got an

390
00:20:44,225 --> 00:20:47,545
Speaker 1: automatic infuser so you can attach your the vile of

391
00:20:47,585 --> 00:20:51,385
Speaker 1: serum or whatever you want infused and it infuses the

392
00:20:51,425 --> 00:20:54,545
Speaker 1: skincare product whilst you're micro needling. But you can just

393
00:20:54,665 --> 00:20:57,385
Speaker 1: easily micro needle with a cheaper device and then just

394
00:20:57,425 --> 00:21:00,265
Speaker 1: apply it manually after it that's the same. So I

395
00:21:00,305 --> 00:21:02,825
Speaker 1: don't think you need to spend that much money on

396
00:21:02,865 --> 00:21:05,545
Speaker 1: a device like that, which is essentially just a variation

397
00:21:05,865 --> 00:21:08,345
Speaker 1: of microneedling. It's a missed.

398
00:21:09,185 --> 00:21:12,785
Speaker 2: Ultra rejuvenating devices. What's the science behind these?

399
00:21:13,145 --> 00:21:15,865
Speaker 1: This device as a massage and a glensing function, which

400
00:21:15,905 --> 00:21:18,985
Speaker 1: is fine like the silicon BLENSA. I don't see how

401
00:21:19,025 --> 00:21:22,545
Speaker 1: the muscle stimulation actions claiming to turn and titan would

402
00:21:22,545 --> 00:21:25,625
Speaker 1: be anti aging because, again to stress, the main drivers

403
00:21:25,625 --> 00:21:29,145
Speaker 1: of skin aging on the face is changes in your fat,

404
00:21:29,865 --> 00:21:34,985
Speaker 1: your bone, and your skin muscle action much less. So

405
00:21:35,105 --> 00:21:37,865
Speaker 1: I don't know how a device like that would contribute

406
00:21:37,865 --> 00:21:40,425
Speaker 1: that much to anti aging benefits. Again, the LED like

407
00:21:40,465 --> 00:21:43,305
Speaker 1: function in this would be very weak and with questionable benefits.

408
00:21:43,345 --> 00:21:44,705
Speaker 1: So this one is a miss for me too.

409
00:21:45,265 --> 00:21:47,465
Speaker 2: I'm about to ask you to save me some money

410
00:21:47,465 --> 00:21:51,905
Speaker 2: because I have my eye on this cryo roller. I

411
00:21:51,945 --> 00:21:55,265
Speaker 2: think it's called the Skinny Professional. I'd have to double

412
00:21:55,305 --> 00:21:57,025
Speaker 2: check the name. There's a bunch of them out there.

413
00:21:57,065 --> 00:22:00,745
Speaker 2: There's one called Beauty Biocryo dual ended roller, which is

414
00:22:00,745 --> 00:22:04,105
Speaker 2: one hundred and forty one dollars. Are there any proven

415
00:22:04,225 --> 00:22:08,425
Speaker 2: benefits to using those cold therapy tools and rollers at home.

416
00:22:08,985 --> 00:22:11,665
Speaker 1: I actually quite like this one, so it's a hit

417
00:22:11,865 --> 00:22:14,665
Speaker 1: for me. But again there's a caveat. So this pryor

418
00:22:14,745 --> 00:22:19,425
Speaker 1: role is good because it's cool slash. It's cold first

419
00:22:19,465 --> 00:22:21,025
Speaker 1: that you don't want to burn your skin. Part only

420
00:22:21,105 --> 00:22:24,345
Speaker 1: those with sensitivities to cold, or with rosetia or sensitive skin.

421
00:22:24,705 --> 00:22:28,225
Speaker 1: But the cold can be good to relieve swelling puffiness,

422
00:22:28,545 --> 00:22:30,985
Speaker 1: and also if you're prone to redness, it can shrink

423
00:22:31,065 --> 00:22:35,105
Speaker 1: your capillaries and make you look temporarily less red. So

424
00:22:35,225 --> 00:22:38,145
Speaker 1: it's quite useful again for the temporary benefits, but I

425
00:22:38,345 --> 00:22:41,825
Speaker 1: don't expect the rolling itself to give you long term

426
00:22:41,825 --> 00:22:45,265
Speaker 1: benefits like collagen production. So again, there are no studies

427
00:22:45,305 --> 00:22:47,305
Speaker 1: that have looked at this, and it's the same with

428
00:22:47,505 --> 00:22:50,265
Speaker 1: all the devices we've talked about. Many of the claims

429
00:22:50,265 --> 00:22:54,145
Speaker 1: being made are marketing claims. If there are studies, there

430
00:22:54,145 --> 00:22:57,545
Speaker 1: are very few, and it's more low level evidence. So

431
00:22:57,745 --> 00:23:00,665
Speaker 1: you know, in medicine and in science, when we want

432
00:23:00,705 --> 00:23:03,745
Speaker 1: to compare or we want to say something is working,

433
00:23:04,025 --> 00:23:05,505
Speaker 1: we need to be able to do a head to

434
00:23:05,545 --> 00:23:10,945
Speaker 1: head comparison, and that's comparing apples to apples and apples

435
00:23:11,065 --> 00:23:14,145
Speaker 1: to oranges, like for example, I want to compare micro

436
00:23:14,225 --> 00:23:17,465
Speaker 1: needling brand A with micro needling brand B, so I

437
00:23:17,505 --> 00:23:19,865
Speaker 1: can say this one works better than that because that

438
00:23:20,025 --> 00:23:23,065
Speaker 1: device is stronger, it's got whatever led light function of

439
00:23:23,105 --> 00:23:25,145
Speaker 1: whatever settings it is. But I would also like to

440
00:23:25,145 --> 00:23:29,905
Speaker 1: compare the micro needling device with the hydrodemebration device. It's

441
00:23:29,905 --> 00:23:33,305
Speaker 1: comparing apples and oranges to see which one actually work better.

442
00:23:33,545 --> 00:23:36,385
Speaker 1: But to claim that, we need to do microscopic analysis

443
00:23:36,385 --> 00:23:39,865
Speaker 1: of the skin to look at whether it truly influences

444
00:23:40,185 --> 00:23:43,825
Speaker 1: collogen production or skin redness, the blood vessels, what it

445
00:23:43,865 --> 00:23:45,705
Speaker 1: does to it, what it does to elasting, what it

446
00:23:45,745 --> 00:23:48,465
Speaker 1: does to the hydration level, what it does to pigment production.

447
00:23:48,865 --> 00:23:52,545
Speaker 1: So it's not as simple as just doing a questionnaire

448
00:23:52,705 --> 00:23:56,305
Speaker 1: post marketing analysis asking twenty five people does your skin

449
00:23:56,345 --> 00:23:59,265
Speaker 1: feel better? And a lot of these planes of these

450
00:23:59,265 --> 00:24:01,665
Speaker 1: devices that I've looked at on the website will go

451
00:24:02,505 --> 00:24:06,905
Speaker 1: reported to be beneficial or improve skin tighteners in two weeks.

452
00:24:07,625 --> 00:24:10,345
Speaker 1: Asterisk a study of twenty five five people in the

453
00:24:10,465 --> 00:24:13,785
Speaker 1: question it and they're all my friends. Yeah, So it's

454
00:24:13,825 --> 00:24:17,545
Speaker 1: really really difficult to trust claims that are on websites.

455
00:24:17,585 --> 00:24:21,345
Speaker 1: Of these brands, and unfortunately we don't have scientific studies

456
00:24:21,385 --> 00:24:24,425
Speaker 1: to give us credible information either at this stage. So

457
00:24:24,465 --> 00:24:26,305
Speaker 1: my message is that if you want to buy this device,

458
00:24:26,345 --> 00:24:27,945
Speaker 1: if you're not sure, if you do have access to

459
00:24:27,985 --> 00:24:31,385
Speaker 1: a skin professional, do ask them for some advice before

460
00:24:31,425 --> 00:24:33,425
Speaker 1: you spash your money on these things, because it's so

461
00:24:33,545 --> 00:24:35,785
Speaker 1: easy to get carried away and before you know it,

462
00:24:35,825 --> 00:24:39,745
Speaker 1: you spend hundreds of dollars hit and you've been one.

463
00:24:39,585 --> 00:24:43,025
Speaker 2: Of the greatest discoveries of all time or a miss

464
00:24:43,305 --> 00:24:48,065
Speaker 2: never again never. What is one skincare technique or ingredient

465
00:24:48,145 --> 00:24:51,265
Speaker 2: that you absolutely love and would recommend to your patients

466
00:24:51,345 --> 00:24:54,225
Speaker 2: or aubis and one that you hate.

467
00:24:54,465 --> 00:24:57,545
Speaker 1: I guess my favorite one would be resviratral, which is

468
00:24:57,545 --> 00:25:02,825
Speaker 1: an antioxidant. I love antioxidants because these days there's so

469
00:25:02,945 --> 00:25:06,145
Speaker 1: much pollution out there where outdoors a lot in Australia

470
00:25:06,225 --> 00:25:09,625
Speaker 1: were such an outdoor country with sport and our lives,

471
00:25:09,865 --> 00:25:13,625
Speaker 1: we're exposed to UV, visible light, pollution, environment aggresses. We

472
00:25:13,745 --> 00:25:16,225
Speaker 1: do need to protect our skin, and because I'm in

473
00:25:16,225 --> 00:25:18,465
Speaker 1: my mid forties, I'm also thinking about prevention and how

474
00:25:18,505 --> 00:25:21,465
Speaker 1: I can preserve as much collagen as possible. So I

475
00:25:21,545 --> 00:25:24,905
Speaker 1: love the antioxidant group of ingredients. I love vitamin sea

476
00:25:24,985 --> 00:25:27,345
Speaker 1: that I use in the morning. But why I particularly

477
00:25:27,345 --> 00:25:30,425
Speaker 1: love resveratrol that I use as my night antioxidant is

478
00:25:30,865 --> 00:25:34,985
Speaker 1: because it's more gentle and there's minimal risk of skin irritation,

479
00:25:35,105 --> 00:25:38,185
Speaker 1: so it's suitable for most, if not all skin types.

480
00:25:38,505 --> 00:25:41,985
Speaker 1: It helps as a co effector for collagen stimulation. It

481
00:25:42,025 --> 00:25:45,385
Speaker 1: also helps with pigmentation skin cuticles. Is one that I

482
00:25:45,385 --> 00:25:49,025
Speaker 1: would use myself and recommend for the resveratrol. I guess

483
00:25:49,065 --> 00:25:53,025
Speaker 1: a skincare ingredient that I don't like, clean beauty. Clean

484
00:25:53,065 --> 00:25:54,865
Speaker 1: beauty products, I think is a bit of a hype

485
00:25:54,905 --> 00:25:56,305
Speaker 1: and a bit of a myth. I'm going to go

486
00:25:56,425 --> 00:25:59,625
Speaker 1: with that rather than ingredients because it gives the illusion

487
00:25:59,825 --> 00:26:03,265
Speaker 1: that mainstream skin care products may not be good because

488
00:26:03,265 --> 00:26:07,665
Speaker 1: it's full of chemicals. But there's really very limited evidence

489
00:26:07,945 --> 00:26:12,865
Speaker 1: that tiny amounts, tiny concentrations of these ingredients cause harm.

490
00:26:12,905 --> 00:26:15,865
Speaker 1: Like for example, some people would think, oh, chemical sunscreens

491
00:26:15,865 --> 00:26:18,625
Speaker 1: are bad for your skin. It causes harm, but you

492
00:26:18,625 --> 00:26:20,985
Speaker 1: know it's not being shown to do that. So clean

493
00:26:21,025 --> 00:26:23,785
Speaker 1: beauty hype it can demonize it an ingredients. It pushes

494
00:26:23,825 --> 00:26:26,985
Speaker 1: the false idea that natural automatically means better. But what

495
00:26:27,105 --> 00:26:31,625
Speaker 1: is natural mercury is natural? No natural fragrances like essential

496
00:26:31,625 --> 00:26:34,745
Speaker 1: oils and plant extracts. We commonly, as dermatologists see people

497
00:26:34,825 --> 00:26:37,825
Speaker 1: get sensitized to it and you get allergic contactematypis. So

498
00:26:37,865 --> 00:26:42,425
Speaker 1: it's not necessarily better. But there's this myth out there,

499
00:26:42,465 --> 00:26:45,745
Speaker 1: and it's marketing planes that clean beauty is healthier, but

500
00:26:45,825 --> 00:26:47,905
Speaker 1: it's not. So. I think that's the thing that I

501
00:26:47,945 --> 00:26:50,425
Speaker 1: am disappointed with. So I suppose and I see a

502
00:26:50,425 --> 00:26:53,145
Speaker 1: lot of skin problems with people who go down the

503
00:26:53,305 --> 00:26:57,145
Speaker 1: natural pathway, natural essential always fragrances, and people who spend

504
00:26:57,185 --> 00:26:59,105
Speaker 1: a lot of money on clean beauty thinking it would

505
00:26:59,105 --> 00:27:01,145
Speaker 1: make a better difference, but it's not. So. Again, I

506
00:27:01,145 --> 00:27:01,945
Speaker 1: think it's marketing.

507
00:27:02,145 --> 00:27:05,025
Speaker 2: That is such a great answer. Doctor, Thank you so

508
00:27:05,145 --> 00:27:07,745
Speaker 2: much for joining us on the show today. You have

509
00:27:08,145 --> 00:27:10,065
Speaker 2: not only saved our skin, but I think you also

510
00:27:10,145 --> 00:27:13,225
Speaker 2: saved our bank accounts. So thank you so much for

511
00:27:13,345 --> 00:27:15,505
Speaker 2: coming on and breaking everything down for us.

512
00:27:15,585 --> 00:27:16,465
Speaker 1: Thanks for having me.

513
00:27:17,145 --> 00:27:19,465
Speaker 2: Thank you so much for listening to this episode of

514
00:27:19,505 --> 00:27:23,105
Speaker 2: You Beauty. This episode was actually the result of Hole

515
00:27:23,145 --> 00:27:26,705
Speaker 2: Heepee Ubis asking so many different questions about at home

516
00:27:26,945 --> 00:27:30,825
Speaker 2: facial devices so hit up our you Beauty Instagram, send

517
00:27:30,865 --> 00:27:33,385
Speaker 2: us a DM and we'll find an expert to help

518
00:27:33,465 --> 00:27:35,905
Speaker 2: answer it for you. The producer of You Beauty is

519
00:27:35,945 --> 00:27:38,865
Speaker 2: Cassie Merritt, with audio production by Tig and Sadler. And

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00:27:38,865 --> 00:27:46,265
Speaker 2: I'll see you next week. Bye,