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Speaker 1: You're listening to Amma Mia podcast.

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Speaker 2: Mamma Mia acknowledges the traditional owners of land and waters

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Speaker 2: that this podcast is recorded on.

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Speaker 1: Makeup is My Therapy.

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Speaker 2: I'm in love, I'm obsessed, and I don't even feel

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Speaker 2: guilty about it.

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Speaker 3: Hello, and welcome to you Beauty, the daily podcast for

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Speaker 3: Your Face. I'm Kelly mccaren and welcome to the formula.

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Speaker 3: Every week I get to chat to all sorts of celebrities, experts,

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Speaker 3: and the biggest names in beauty to take a sneak

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Speaker 3: peek at their skincare routines.

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Speaker 1: Now, if you're like.

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Speaker 3: Me, you may have noticed the trend of younger people

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Speaker 3: using skincare products and treatments. Some of them are far

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Speaker 3: too young, and I'm aware that I sound like I'm.

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Speaker 1: Eighty when I say that.

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Speaker 3: What you may not know is that this trend has

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Speaker 3: a name, and it's called prejuvenation, which is a word

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Speaker 3: you will hear through the episode I Struggle with a

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Speaker 3: little Bit. Prejuvenation is gaining popularity, particularly among Gen Z

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Speaker 3: and the younger millennials, who are starting an anti aging

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Speaker 3: routine much earlier than the previous generations. I mean, listen,

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Speaker 3: my nanny is ninety two and she never started an

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Speaker 3: anti aging routine. This trend is driven by social media influence,

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Speaker 3: increased skincare education, and I just I'm unsure how I

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Speaker 3: feel about it. Like I think that it's fine to

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Speaker 3: a certain extent and starting from a certain age, but

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Speaker 3: when you've got fifteen year olds at Mecca, it's alarming.

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Speaker 1: You're such beautiful skin. But how.

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Speaker 3: Today I'm joined by one of Sydney's leading dermatologists, doctor

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Speaker 3: Schreier Andrik, who combines serious medical credentials with a refreshingly

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Speaker 3: practical approach that cuts through all of the marketing stuff

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Speaker 3: that we see around prejuvenation. Whether you're wondering if your

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Speaker 3: twenty something skin should be using retinol already, or if

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Speaker 3: you're concerned about doing too much too soon. Doctor Andreck

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Speaker 3: is the expert we all need in our lives.

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Speaker 1: She's honestly just a delight.

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Speaker 3: We're going to get her back on for sure, because

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Speaker 3: she's about to drop some serious knowledge bombs that will

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Speaker 3: transform your routine. So open up your notes app because

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Speaker 3: your skin is about to.

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Speaker 1: Thank you, Doctor Sharrea. Welcome to the show.

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Speaker 2: Thank you so much for having me.

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Speaker 1: Before we get started, I did.

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Speaker 3: Just want to ask you what is the main takeaway

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Speaker 3: that you would love the UBIS to get from this chat, Like,

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Speaker 3: what is the one thing that you want them to

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Speaker 3: walk away and remember.

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Speaker 2: Look, something that dermatologists always banging on about sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen.

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Speaker 2: It is the best thing that you can be doing

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Speaker 2: for your skin health in terms of prevention, in terms

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Speaker 2: of long term management of all the signs of aging,

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Speaker 2: so fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, broken capillaries on the skin.

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Speaker 2: If there is one thing that you can do to

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Speaker 2: prevent damage to your skin, it is to where unscreen

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Speaker 2: to your face every day if you are out and

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Speaker 2: about reapplying it every two to three hours. We live

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Speaker 2: in Australia, so the UV index is generally going to

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Speaker 2: be over three. So just get into the habit of

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Speaker 2: doing it every day.

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Speaker 3: We're here to talk about prejuvenation, which we'll get into

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Speaker 3: in a minute. But there's no point if you're not

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Speaker 3: wearing sunscreen, right absolutely, If you look at me, like

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Speaker 3: I always just compare myself not in a bad way,

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Speaker 3: because like there's no point, say, lab there's no point

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Speaker 3: regretting things that you've already done. But I have a

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Speaker 3: girlfriend Hanna who has got the exact same sort of

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Speaker 3: skin tone coloring as me, and she grew up reapplying sunscreen,

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Speaker 3: never putting herself out some baking direct sun, and then

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Speaker 3: you've got me.

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Speaker 1: Who grow up at the beach.

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Speaker 3: The differences, even though I'm way better with my skin

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Speaker 3: care now, like sorry, I've caught her using a cleanser

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Speaker 3: as a moisturizer before, like she's not. But the difference

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Speaker 3: between our skin is just astronomical, and it's just from

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Speaker 3: the lack of SBF versus the SBF totally, totally.

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Speaker 2: I wouldn't agree with you more. I guess we hope

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Speaker 2: moving forward. You know, schools are really strict, you know,

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Speaker 2: no hat, no play, they've got sunscreen everywhere, So we

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Speaker 2: hope better for our kids, right, But there are you know,

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Speaker 2: there is that tanning culture student, yeah, which is a

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Speaker 2: bit disappointing.

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Speaker 3: Oh exactly. Okay, I just use the word prejuvenation. It's

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Speaker 3: a big buzzword at the moment. What does it mean

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Speaker 3: because we've heard rejuvenation before, but now we've got a pre.

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Speaker 2: At the start of it. So prejuvenation is essentially just

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Speaker 2: being proactive with your skin. So instead of waiting for

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Speaker 2: you know, fine lines, pigmentation to show up. We start earlier.

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Speaker 2: It's kind of more targeted skincare, so things like your

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Speaker 2: sun protection, your antioxidant, all of that starting from a

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Speaker 2: younger age. But you know, prejuvenation is not doing things

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Speaker 2: like starting injectibles when you are twenty. It is more

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Speaker 2: just being mindful of things like from your mid twenties,

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Speaker 2: we make less collagen, and so what can we do

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Speaker 2: to protect that collagen and to minimize the breakdown of

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Speaker 2: collagen and encourage the production of collagen and elastin rather

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Speaker 2: than waiting for it. It's just being more proactive about

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Speaker 2: your skin care of approach.

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Speaker 3: And how does it differ from traditional anti aging approaches

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Speaker 3: or is it exactly the same thing. It's just a

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Speaker 3: different word for it, like a different marketing ployee.

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Speaker 2: Look, I guess you might start an anti aging routine

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Speaker 2: once you've started to see signs of aging. I would

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Speaker 2: say that an anti aging skincare routine might start in

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Speaker 2: your thirties forties, you know, when you are starting to

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Speaker 2: see fine lines and things developing on the skin. But

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Speaker 2: this is I guess being mindful. The slowdown of the

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Speaker 2: collagen production starts before then. So kind of being a.

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Speaker 3: Bit ahead of the curve, And what have you noticed

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Speaker 3: about this increase in attention on skin care and aging

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Speaker 3: prevention in younger people, because it's not actually really new

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Speaker 3: if you think about it. I definitely was very invested

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Speaker 3: in anti aging, which is it's just so funny when

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Speaker 3: you're in your late thirties to say anti aging in

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Speaker 3: my early twenties. But I actually think that my skin's

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Speaker 3: probably even better than it is now because I'm taking

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Speaker 3: such better.

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Speaker 1: Care of my skin. So I guess that's the point.

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Speaker 2: Yes, Look, I think in terms of building a routine

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Speaker 2: for your skin, so getting into good habits, I think

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Speaker 2: that's a good thing from a younger age, you know,

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Speaker 2: not using super aggressive products. So you know, if you're

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Speaker 2: a young person and you don't have oily skin and

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Speaker 2: things like that, then probably using a retinal is not

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Speaker 2: for you. But you know, I guess just getting into

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Speaker 2: that routine I think is a good idea even in

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Speaker 2: your teenage years, you know, washing the face, using a

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Speaker 2: moisturize and putting sunscreen on every day. And then as

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Speaker 2: you get older you can build on that and use

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Speaker 2: more targeted ingredients that are going to be helpful for

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Speaker 2: your skin.

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Speaker 3: We make jokes all the time about the ten year

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Speaker 3: olds at Mecca, But how young are we talking about

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Speaker 3: with people that you're seeing potentially bringing their kids in

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Speaker 3: that actually don't have skin issues. Because of course, if

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Speaker 3: your child has something like acne or maybe severe rose sha,

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Speaker 3: they might want to take them in to see a specialist.

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Speaker 3: But people that actually don't have sort of any troubles

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Speaker 3: at all, how young are we talking about?

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Speaker 2: So look like I'm seeing, you know, kids in their

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Speaker 2: early teens, and they're just throwing everything on their skin

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Speaker 2: and then that's causing all sorts of problems. It's giving

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Speaker 2: them hairy or official dermatitis, and it's just irritating the skin.

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Speaker 2: So that is really unnecessary. But I think that comes

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Speaker 2: from overuse of those active ingredients that they don't need

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Speaker 2: on their skin. You know, if you have beautiful twelve

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Speaker 2: year olds on TikTok tol, yeah, exactly. Social media has

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Speaker 2: just taken to the next level. Really, kids are kind

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Speaker 2: of hooked on it. But again, like I say, I

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Speaker 2: have no issues with you using a basic cleanser, a

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Speaker 2: basic moisturizer, a good sunscreen. So if you want to

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Speaker 2: do things, then those are the things you can do

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Speaker 2: in those kind of early you know, in those tween years.

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Speaker 2: But then as you get older, probably mid twenties is

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Speaker 2: the time to start with your antioxidants and things like that.

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Speaker 3: I had really bad acne as a teenager, so my

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Speaker 3: mum always had me on a I wouldn't call it

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Speaker 3: good back then because it was really harsh ingredients and

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Speaker 3: questionable formulations. But I was like very from a very

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Speaker 3: young age, had a skincare regime. It's kind of like

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Speaker 3: brushing your teeth. You just do your skincare every morning

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Speaker 3: and night. Would you just say that this trend has

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Speaker 3: been on the steady increase simply because of TikTok and

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Speaker 3: social media in general.

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Speaker 2: Yeah. Absolutely, people are seeing of influencers everywhere. You know,

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Speaker 2: people are wanting glass skin and there are all those

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Speaker 2: buzzwords around, so everyone's trying to achieve that using different products.

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Speaker 1: But it's like, you're fourteen, you do have glass skin.

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Speaker 1: How widespread is this though?

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Speaker 3: Like, you know, are we just talking about it in

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Speaker 3: our bubble but the general public are kind of like,

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Speaker 3: I've got no idea what these people are talking about.

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Speaker 3: Like no ten to fourteen year old I know, or

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Speaker 3: teenager I know is sort of talking or using skincare.

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Speaker 3: Is it pretty widespread across Australia or targeted towards the

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Speaker 3: more urban areas, would you say?

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Speaker 2: I guess that's hard for me to answer because I

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Speaker 2: live and work in Sydney and obviously I have my

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Speaker 2: patient cohort. But then I'm also a mum and I've

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Speaker 2: got lots of mum friends who have kids in those

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Speaker 2: age groups, and I couldn't name one of them who

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Speaker 2: isn't keen on, you know, going to Mecca and that's

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Speaker 2: how they spend their weekends and things.

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Speaker 3: Well, I guess social media has kind of flattened that

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Speaker 3: curve in terms of someone that lives in the country.

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Speaker 3: Now they're seeing it. Yes, even if the they don't

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Speaker 3: have a Mecca or Sephora near them, they're wanting to

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Speaker 3: place online orders because they see it on social media.

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Speaker 2: Oh yeah, totally. And there are decent products that you

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Speaker 2: can get from chemists and things like that as well

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Speaker 2: that would be more accessible to some of those younger people.

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Speaker 3: Exactly when you see a brand creating sort of products

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Speaker 3: or marketing collateral that is clearly aimed for that younger generation,

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Speaker 3: do you think that it's just a money making scheme.

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Speaker 3: Do you think it's creating unnecessary anxiety? Ultimately, it comes

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Speaker 3: down to ingredients. I find that if a brand is

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Speaker 3: you know, actually.

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Speaker 2: Has that scientific background to them, if they have ingredients

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Speaker 2: listed on the packaging, if it's colorful and you know,

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Speaker 2: appealing to the eye, then that's fine. But if those

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Speaker 2: ingredients are somewhat hidden, if you don't actually know what's

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Speaker 2: in a product, I like to see, you know, a

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Speaker 2: box for a bottle that says this is exactly what

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Speaker 2: is in these products. Whereas I think that some brands

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Speaker 2: probably don't do that, and they are leaning more towards

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Speaker 2: that younger market and it's definitely marketing. As a dermatologist,

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Speaker 2: doesn't worry you that young people are trying to change

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Speaker 2: how they look. It's not a new thing, as I've said,

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Speaker 2: but it's just so prevalent and like it's not just

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Speaker 2: little things anymore, Like people are really trying to change

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Speaker 2: things at such a young age, before they've even finished developing. Yeah,

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Speaker 2: I think they kind of lose sight of the fact that,

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Speaker 2: you know, celebrities, influencers who are all over social media,

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Speaker 2: they can do in clinic treatments they've got special lighting filters,

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Speaker 2: you know, they might have injectable treatments and things like that.

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Speaker 2: You know, when we were young, we just like flip

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Speaker 2: through magazines and things like that, and so we knew

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Speaker 2: it wasn't real, yes, and it wasn't at us all

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Speaker 2: the time. Yeah.

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Speaker 3: And I also think then the fact that we're always

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Speaker 3: sort of looking at ours in our phones or on screen.

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Speaker 3: Absolutely never before when we were growing up, we didn't

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Speaker 3: really look at ourselves. It'll be like in the morning

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Speaker 3: as you're getting ready, or when you're brushing your teeth

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Speaker 3: at night, even if you were a really vain teenage

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Speaker 3: girl like I was because I had bad skin, so

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Speaker 3: like just always looking, but it wasn't constantly in.

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Speaker 2: My face totally. Yeah, So that just takes it to

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Speaker 2: the next level. So it's hard for them.

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Speaker 3: Is there any science that supports benefits of starting anti

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Speaker 3: aging products and treatments early what do you call early

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Speaker 3: early twenties?

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Speaker 2: We're just going to say no to teens in general. Yes, okay,

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Speaker 2: so no to teens. I would say mid twenties is

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Speaker 2: a good time to start. We're talking about that collagen

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Speaker 2: production slowing down, that collagen breakdown, that happens with sun exposure,

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Speaker 2: with pollution, with even you know, nutrition and diet and

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Speaker 2: things like that stress. I think that's the time to

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Speaker 2: introduce an antioxidant, vitamin C. I love Vitamin C works

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Speaker 2: with your sunscreen to make it more effective, and there's

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Speaker 2: definitely evidence to show that use of that will reduce

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Speaker 2: the breakdown of those fibers. So yeah, there is evidence

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Speaker 2: behind it. I can definitely see a difference in those

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Speaker 2: people who have been sticking to a routine as opposed

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Speaker 2: to you know. Sometimes I have patients come in to

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Speaker 2: see me and I'm like, oh my gosh, you're my age,

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Speaker 2: and like, I you know, So you can see a

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Speaker 2: difference between people who do use, you know, a good

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Speaker 2: skincare routine versus those who don't.

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Speaker 1: It's really hard to tell.

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Speaker 3: Sometimes I was interviewing someone yesterday and then I said

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Speaker 3: to our producer after we're done, I was like, I

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Speaker 3: literally could not tell you how old that person was.

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Speaker 3: They could have been twenty five or forty five. I've

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Speaker 3: got no idea because their skin was just so plump.

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Speaker 3: So yeah, it definitely makes a difference if someone's in

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Speaker 3: their early twenties. What are a couple of must have

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Speaker 3: products apart from sunscreen because we just wear blanketing that

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Speaker 3: every single person needs to be using sunscreen as always.

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Speaker 2: Yes, Okay, So I guess in terms of a really

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Speaker 2: good skincare routine for someone in their twenties, i'd say

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Speaker 2: a cleanser, and that cleanser should kind of be based

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Speaker 2: on your skin type, you know, So if you have

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Speaker 2: oily skin, dry skin, you know, sensitive skin, then choose

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Speaker 2: a cleanser that works for your skin type. I would

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Speaker 2: say most people at that age should be able to

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Speaker 2: tolerate a vitamin C serum, so you're wanting to look

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Speaker 2: for something that has like a fifteen percent vitamin C

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Speaker 2: foreruleic acid to kind of make that, you know, more stable.

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Speaker 2: Your moisturizer again, moisturizer based on your skin type, oil free,

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Speaker 2: noncomutogenic if you have oily skin, or something more hydrating,

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Speaker 2: and then your sunscreen, and then at nighttime, you might

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Speaker 2: think about doing something like a cleanser double cleansing at nighttime. Sorry,

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Speaker 2: you can do like a hyaluronic acid or a peptide

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Speaker 2: serum and then your moisturizer on top. And I feel

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Speaker 2: like that that's kind of just like a pretty basic

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Speaker 2: but relatively easy to stick to routine that most people

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Speaker 2: would be able to do.

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Speaker 3: Are there any particular products that you like, because if

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Speaker 3: you're in your early twenties, I guess as well, you

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Speaker 3: don't want to spend heaps of money. There's also a

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Speaker 3: cost of living crisis, so something that's affordable and defective.

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Speaker 2: I've been introduced to this brand called skin Physics. They

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Speaker 2: have a really good range of products that have you know,

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Speaker 2: scientifically proven ingredients that are, like I said, at that

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Speaker 2: good percentage. So they've got you know, they've got a

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Speaker 2: vitamin C theerum. I've tried their anti aging hydration theorem,

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Speaker 2: which is really nice. They've got a discoloration one as well,

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Speaker 2: if you are starting to see pigmentation and things like that.

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Speaker 2: And they're at a really good price point, so they're.

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Speaker 1: All under fifty bucks. I think yeah.

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Speaker 2: In terms of having you know, good scientifically proven active ingredients,

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Speaker 2: hyaluronic acid, peptides, all of those things, I really like

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Speaker 2: their range.

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Speaker 3: I think there are so many great brands at the

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Speaker 3: pharmacy with good clinical studies behind it now. And also

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Speaker 3: then they're always on special so that you can get

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Speaker 3: them even cheaper.

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Speaker 1: That's the messing about pharmacy brands.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, a lot of the skincare that I recommend is

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Speaker 2: just from the pharmacy, nothing fancy.

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Speaker 3: And especially something like a cleanser, like you don't need

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Speaker 3: to be spending heaps of money.

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Speaker 1: It's going to go down the drain.

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Speaker 3: Literally beyond products, what positive lifestyle habits make the biggest

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Speaker 3: difference to skin health and aging prevention for people in

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Speaker 3: their twenties and thirties.

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Speaker 2: So definitely your nutrition, your sleep, drinking lots of water,

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Speaker 2: managing stress and things like that.

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Speaker 1: Not in shrinking.

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Speaker 3: Because I don't know about you, but I never did

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Speaker 3: my skincare when I would get home at night. I

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Speaker 3: might take my makeup off, but I wasn't then doing

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Speaker 3: my skincare routine.

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Speaker 2: Please, please, please take your makeup off when you get home.

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Speaker 3: Even if you just pop on like a overnight mask

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Speaker 3: or an oil some thing, so you don't wake up

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Speaker 3: with your face going.

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Speaker 4: Ah, honey, what is your self care to you?

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Speaker 1: Give us the dirty details?

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Speaker 3: Can we move on to your personal routine. You might

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Speaker 3: just think I'm saying this because I can't see that well,

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Speaker 3: but I can see a glow and it is beautiful,

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Speaker 3: so can you walk us through what you do AM

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Speaker 3: and PM and any treatments, because I always say, let's

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Speaker 3: not skip out on the treatments if we're doing them.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, absolutely, to be honest, my skincare routine is very

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Speaker 2: similar to what I said before. So in the mornings,

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Speaker 2: I will usually do cleanser, antioxidant serum. I'll use a

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Speaker 2: hydrating serum as well, and then I actually skip the

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Speaker 2: moisturizers because I feel like I don't need it after those,

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Speaker 2: and I use like a quite a hydrating sunscreen well, so.

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Speaker 3: Many of them have such good skincare benefits thingely, and.

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Speaker 2: Then at nighttime I'll double cleans I use an oil

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Speaker 2: cleanser and then a regular cleanser, and then I will

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Speaker 2: use again like either a peptide serum or a retinol,

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Speaker 2: and then a moisturizer. Sometimes I'll skip the retinol if

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Speaker 2: I feel like my skin's getting irritated by it. That

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Speaker 2: that's basically it. And then in terms of other things

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Speaker 2: I quite like to do which I haven't done this

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Speaker 2: year yet, like a fraxal laser just to freshen everything up,

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Speaker 2: so that kind of helps with that collogen elastin stimulation.

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Speaker 2: The skin feels so nice and smooth, like skin polishing.

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Speaker 2: And then you know, some magic fairy dust every now

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Speaker 2: and then every few months, a.

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Speaker 3: Little injectible here there. That's a nice way to put

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Speaker 3: a little bit of fairy dust. Hit, you've made one

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Speaker 3: of the greatest discoveries of all time?

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Speaker 2: Or a miss?

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Speaker 1: Never again never.

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Speaker 3: At the end of every episode we like to finish

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Speaker 3: with hit or miss. I love this so much. What

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Speaker 3: is the one skincare technique or ingredient that you really

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Speaker 3: love and that you recommend to everyone and think that

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Speaker 3: everyone should try it?

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Speaker 1: But like, let's not say spa.

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Speaker 2: Yes, fair enough? Can I say like two? Yeah, nice inamide.

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Speaker 2: I really love It's antioxidant. It reduces inflammation in the skin,

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Speaker 2: It restores the skin barrier, can help with pigmentation and

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Speaker 2: things like that. So I really love nice inamide as

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Speaker 2: an ingredient because it kind of goes with a lot

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Speaker 2: of other ingredients. You can find it in a lot

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Speaker 2: of serums. It will be included in their moisturizes and

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Speaker 2: things like that. So I love that. I also am

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Speaker 2: really excited by peptides. I feel like peptides are really

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Speaker 2: you know, it's a newish ingredient, but there's lots of

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Speaker 2: scientific evidence coming out showing how effective they are. There

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Speaker 2: are ones that kind of act as like not really

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Speaker 2: topical anti wrinkle, but somewhat you know, peptides basically small

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Speaker 2: molecule that have the ability to penetrate deeper down and

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Speaker 2: they send messages to the cells so they can say,

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Speaker 2: all right, that muscle, you've got too much movement, so

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Speaker 2: slow it down. Or they can tell collagen that, you know,

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Speaker 2: the fiberblast to make more collagen, more elastin and things

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Speaker 2: like that. So I think in terms of up and

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Speaker 2: coming ingredients, I love the pop tides.

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Speaker 1: I agree.

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Speaker 3: I think so many launchers this year will just be

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Speaker 3: all about peptides and they do. They feel beautiful and

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Speaker 3: everyone can use them.

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Speaker 2: Yeah, that's it because they just help with that skin

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Speaker 2: barrier as well as you know, they're not going to

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Speaker 2: irritate the skin when you're using them. So yeah, if

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Speaker 2: I'm thinking about ingredients that are good for everyone, those

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Speaker 2: are the ones that I would go for.

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Speaker 1: Oh I love that answer.

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Speaker 3: On the flip side, what's one skin care trend or

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Speaker 3: ingredient that you think's absolutely not worth it? Like something

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Speaker 3: that you see floating around social media or people talking

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Speaker 3: about a lot that makes you roll your eyes.

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Speaker 2: Well, okay, so I think that everyone loves an oil cleanser,

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Speaker 2: and because I feel that that's the only thing that

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Speaker 2: really takes their makeup off and things like that. But

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Speaker 2: I see a lot of patients with acne and I

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Speaker 2: don't think an oil cleanser is appropriate for their skin

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Speaker 2: because again, you know, it does a great job of

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Speaker 2: getting into the pores and clearing them out, but then

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Speaker 2: that oil gets stuck in there. So I think if

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Speaker 2: you do have oily acne prone skin, then I would

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Speaker 2: stay away from an oil cleanser like my cellar order.

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Speaker 2: You know that's going to be just as effective. You're

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Speaker 2: always going to double cleanse anyway. Yeah, so I usually

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Speaker 2: would say for someone who's got oily acne prone skin,

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Speaker 2: my cellar water to remove makeup, and then another more

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Speaker 2: active cleanser for your second cleanse.

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Speaker 3: Something with some salicilic acids. Yeah, something like that in it.

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Speaker 3: All Right, Well, thank you so much. You have been

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Speaker 3: an absolute delight. I'm sure people are going to love

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Speaker 3: listening to this chat as much as I've enjoyed having it.

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Speaker 2: Hopefully it's helpful.

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Speaker 1: Oh, I'm sure it will.

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Speaker 2: Thank you so much for having me.

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Speaker 3: Well, thank you so much for joining me today. If

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Speaker 3: you liked this episode, make make sure you check out

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Speaker 3: our Instagram at You Beauty Podcast. We've also got a

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Speaker 3: Facebook group. There's over like eighty five thousand or eighty thousand,

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Speaker 3: I don't even know. There's so many ubis in there

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Speaker 3: and they all want to chat about beauty, so make

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Speaker 3: sure you're over there. This episode of You Beauty was

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Speaker 3: produced by Molly Harwood with audio production by Lou Hill.

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Speaker 3: Thanks for listening and don't forget to tune in tomorrow.

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Speaker 1: Bye,