1 00:00:08,234 --> 00:00:16,954 Speaker 1: You're listening to Amma Mia podcast. Makeup is My therapy. 2 00:00:17,154 --> 00:00:20,194 Speaker 2: I'm in love, I'm obsess and I don't even feel 3 00:00:20,233 --> 00:00:20,913 Speaker 2: jailty about it. 4 00:00:24,554 --> 00:00:26,594 Speaker 1: Hello, and welcome to you beauty. 5 00:00:26,674 --> 00:00:30,314 Speaker 3: I'm Kelly McCarran and this is the formula and today 6 00:00:30,714 --> 00:00:35,314 Speaker 3: we have got a pioneer of the beauty industry. Today, 7 00:00:35,354 --> 00:00:39,754 Speaker 3: I'm joined by doctor Natasha Cook, a Sydney based bored certified. 8 00:00:39,994 --> 00:00:42,474 Speaker 3: I feel like I'm in grace anatomy saying that practicing 9 00:00:42,513 --> 00:00:46,754 Speaker 3: dermatologist with over twenty years of experience and a reputation 10 00:00:47,034 --> 00:00:52,193 Speaker 3: as the uncompromising dermatologist, Doctor Natasha is across the latest 11 00:00:52,233 --> 00:00:56,714 Speaker 3: technology and has strong and hilarious opinions about all of 12 00:00:56,714 --> 00:01:00,594 Speaker 3: those viral skincare trends. But she's also working with patients 13 00:01:00,634 --> 00:01:02,714 Speaker 3: on their skin day in and out. 14 00:01:02,994 --> 00:01:04,833 Speaker 1: So we invited her on so that. 15 00:01:04,754 --> 00:01:06,953 Speaker 3: She could chat to us about the biggest and most 16 00:01:07,154 --> 00:01:10,953 Speaker 3: common mistakes she sees in clinic every single day. And 17 00:01:11,034 --> 00:01:13,754 Speaker 3: a note before we get started. Like all of our 18 00:01:13,834 --> 00:01:17,794 Speaker 3: expert interviews, this is an educational chat and it's not 19 00:01:17,834 --> 00:01:21,954 Speaker 3: intended to replace any professional medical advice. We always recommend 20 00:01:22,074 --> 00:01:25,034 Speaker 3: consulting a professional for personalized advice. 21 00:01:25,314 --> 00:01:27,154 Speaker 1: Tailored to your individual needs. 22 00:01:27,674 --> 00:01:31,394 Speaker 2: You have such beautiful skill. But how. 23 00:01:33,474 --> 00:01:36,954 Speaker 3: Okay, doctor Natasha, let's jump right in hit me with 24 00:01:37,034 --> 00:01:40,794 Speaker 3: the mistakes or the common misconceptions that you're seeing in 25 00:01:40,834 --> 00:01:41,794 Speaker 3: your clinic every day. 26 00:01:42,474 --> 00:01:44,594 Speaker 2: Where do I start? 27 00:01:44,994 --> 00:01:49,234 Speaker 4: Let's start with okay, sunscreen. So one of the biggest 28 00:01:49,274 --> 00:01:53,114 Speaker 4: misconceptions I have is about application, So people to understand 29 00:01:53,114 --> 00:01:55,714 Speaker 4: how important is to apply, even though if you've got 30 00:01:55,714 --> 00:01:57,554 Speaker 4: your rating and I believe in thirty and above is 31 00:01:57,554 --> 00:02:00,074 Speaker 4: what you need. Anything less than that, you probably got 32 00:02:00,114 --> 00:02:03,314 Speaker 4: getting the protection your skin deserves. And also how much 33 00:02:03,354 --> 00:02:05,234 Speaker 4: to put on and so a lot of people will 34 00:02:05,314 --> 00:02:09,274 Speaker 4: use powders or makeup or spray ons. Now there's a 35 00:02:09,314 --> 00:02:11,874 Speaker 4: plethora of issues with that. First of all, if you're 36 00:02:11,874 --> 00:02:14,874 Speaker 4: relying primarily on a makeup, how do you apply makeup? 37 00:02:15,274 --> 00:02:16,554 Speaker 2: Dip dip, dip, dad dab. 38 00:02:16,714 --> 00:02:18,634 Speaker 4: You're not putting much on yet, that's right, you're not 39 00:02:18,674 --> 00:02:21,994 Speaker 4: doing which is a nice reference point the two finger technique, right, 40 00:02:22,114 --> 00:02:23,394 Speaker 4: and then slathering it all on. 41 00:02:23,554 --> 00:02:25,434 Speaker 2: So makeup is a nice. 42 00:02:25,234 --> 00:02:28,394 Speaker 4: Additive with SBF, but you should always have a primary 43 00:02:28,394 --> 00:02:32,554 Speaker 4: products SPF focused underneath. Second problem is some of these 44 00:02:32,674 --> 00:02:34,754 Speaker 4: powders that are topped up with an SBF on them, 45 00:02:34,834 --> 00:02:37,154 Speaker 4: the powders dispersed, you're not getting coverage. 46 00:02:37,194 --> 00:02:38,434 Speaker 2: Application is everything. 47 00:02:38,834 --> 00:02:42,154 Speaker 4: If you under applies, you drop off your SBF rating 48 00:02:42,194 --> 00:02:44,074 Speaker 4: from something like that so thirty to giving you about 49 00:02:44,114 --> 00:02:47,514 Speaker 4: of five, So you're really not gaining that protection. Then, 50 00:02:47,554 --> 00:02:50,434 Speaker 4: I guess the third biggest mistake with sunscreens and application 51 00:02:50,794 --> 00:02:53,594 Speaker 4: is this codependency on the spray on ones. 52 00:02:54,154 --> 00:02:54,594 Speaker 2: Few things. 53 00:02:54,674 --> 00:02:57,474 Speaker 4: When you're spraying, particularly outdoors, usually the answer is blowing 54 00:02:57,474 --> 00:03:00,034 Speaker 4: in the wind. Okay, it dissippets into the atmosphere, it's 55 00:03:00,074 --> 00:03:02,994 Speaker 4: not going onto the skin. The second problem is the 56 00:03:02,994 --> 00:03:06,194 Speaker 4: way a spray on SPF is tested to get that rating. 57 00:03:06,194 --> 00:03:07,794 Speaker 4: And we all know there's been a lot of stuff 58 00:03:07,834 --> 00:03:10,714 Speaker 4: in the media about people not getting their products tested, 59 00:03:10,754 --> 00:03:14,994 Speaker 4: probably using facilities that don't follow the standards, using overseas 60 00:03:14,994 --> 00:03:17,913 Speaker 4: facilities that may be not as legitimate and astringent as 61 00:03:17,914 --> 00:03:20,994 Speaker 4: the ones based in Australia. So the way they tested 62 00:03:21,034 --> 00:03:23,354 Speaker 4: it is in the liquid form before it goes into 63 00:03:23,394 --> 00:03:26,233 Speaker 4: the aerosolized form. So the liquid format of the formula 64 00:03:26,394 --> 00:03:29,434 Speaker 4: is put on patients with population. You start with one person, 65 00:03:29,474 --> 00:03:32,034 Speaker 4: go to three, then go to ten, and then to 66 00:03:32,154 --> 00:03:35,954 Speaker 4: shine on UVB radiation and to show that the SBF 67 00:03:36,074 --> 00:03:39,714 Speaker 4: prevents redness. Okay, so in a liquid form, that's cool. 68 00:03:39,714 --> 00:03:41,834 Speaker 4: You get your rating, then it goes to the manufacturer 69 00:03:41,994 --> 00:03:45,034 Speaker 4: and they add the aerosolization into it, so you're not 70 00:03:45,074 --> 00:03:47,834 Speaker 4: getting the product in the test form. It's like, I mean, 71 00:03:47,914 --> 00:03:50,634 Speaker 4: I've attempted to lobby in my own little quiet way, 72 00:03:50,794 --> 00:03:54,634 Speaker 4: right the underachiever a bit like a BHP moment of saying, 73 00:03:55,154 --> 00:03:59,194 Speaker 4: the only people this literally services is not the consumer, 74 00:03:59,274 --> 00:04:01,954 Speaker 4: not the patient, not the general public, but the manufacturers 75 00:04:01,994 --> 00:04:04,794 Speaker 4: and big corporates. Yeah, because if you think about it, 76 00:04:04,834 --> 00:04:07,514 Speaker 4: why do patients love wearing it? I'm easy, and it 77 00:04:07,514 --> 00:04:10,354 Speaker 4: feels like you're wearing nothing at all, And the irony is. 78 00:04:10,794 --> 00:04:11,474 Speaker 2: You probably are. 79 00:04:11,594 --> 00:04:12,874 Speaker 1: You're probably not wearing anything. 80 00:04:13,114 --> 00:04:16,034 Speaker 4: So then that gives patience or people or the consumer 81 00:04:16,074 --> 00:04:18,553 Speaker 4: out there an absolute full sense of security that they 82 00:04:18,594 --> 00:04:21,553 Speaker 4: go but I'm fine, and they may not burn as readily, 83 00:04:21,594 --> 00:04:23,954 Speaker 4: which means they spend more time out like a full 84 00:04:23,993 --> 00:04:26,553 Speaker 4: sense of security, which are getting more damage, which then 85 00:04:26,633 --> 00:04:30,393 Speaker 4: increases your notches of skin cancer but literally accelerated photo aging, 86 00:04:30,433 --> 00:04:33,354 Speaker 4: pigmentation and long term damage to your deminis. 87 00:04:34,474 --> 00:04:39,394 Speaker 3: And it's crazy that people are still so not everyone, obviously, 88 00:04:39,474 --> 00:04:41,993 Speaker 3: but there are so many people that are o the 89 00:04:41,993 --> 00:04:44,713 Speaker 3: feeling it. Have you tried some of the formulas these days, 90 00:04:44,714 --> 00:04:46,754 Speaker 3: because it honestly feels beautiful. 91 00:04:47,073 --> 00:04:49,313 Speaker 1: So many that are just so lightweight. 92 00:04:49,234 --> 00:04:51,553 Speaker 4: However, right, and there are and there are good ones 93 00:04:51,633 --> 00:04:55,153 Speaker 4: properly tested. Some of those are lightweight because they may 94 00:04:55,193 --> 00:05:00,313 Speaker 4: not be really tested appropriately. So there's a balance of 95 00:05:00,354 --> 00:05:03,113 Speaker 4: finding the right sunscreens. And I think the most important 96 00:05:03,113 --> 00:05:06,073 Speaker 4: thing is if the sunscreen and we're not there yet 97 00:05:06,073 --> 00:05:09,274 Speaker 4: in regulations. I've chatted with Choice Magazine who did the 98 00:05:09,313 --> 00:05:12,713 Speaker 4: big expers a and I'm potentially also going to give 99 00:05:12,753 --> 00:05:17,034 Speaker 4: my professional input as a clinical dermatologist that we really 100 00:05:17,193 --> 00:05:20,553 Speaker 4: probably should say, if you're sold in Australia, you need 101 00:05:20,633 --> 00:05:22,714 Speaker 4: to be tested in the labs in Australia that we 102 00:05:22,794 --> 00:05:26,313 Speaker 4: know follow the standards ization of the tests, right, the 103 00:05:26,433 --> 00:05:29,553 Speaker 4: standard tests are not the problem. Are they executing the 104 00:05:29,553 --> 00:05:32,074 Speaker 4: tests or not? Because the tests are really rigorous and 105 00:05:32,113 --> 00:05:34,034 Speaker 4: they're pretty much fail safe and reliable. 106 00:05:34,553 --> 00:05:35,914 Speaker 2: And that was my little input. 107 00:05:36,113 --> 00:05:38,793 Speaker 4: Overseas sunscreens, for example, and all brands have to test 108 00:05:38,834 --> 00:05:42,234 Speaker 4: here if there's a problem. The TGA has immediate access 109 00:05:42,474 --> 00:05:45,393 Speaker 4: to look at the issue. And also regulate the testing 110 00:05:45,433 --> 00:05:48,313 Speaker 4: facilities directly rather than knowing what's going on in the UK, 111 00:05:48,393 --> 00:05:51,034 Speaker 4: which was that particular lab that had lots of problems 112 00:05:51,113 --> 00:05:53,873 Speaker 4: and has been known to be fraudulent by in house 113 00:05:53,914 --> 00:05:56,873 Speaker 4: industry here. But you're very limited to do anything about 114 00:05:56,873 --> 00:05:59,034 Speaker 4: it otherwise you look anti competitive. 115 00:05:59,193 --> 00:06:02,833 Speaker 3: And it's unfortunately. The people that are impacted are the 116 00:06:02,834 --> 00:06:03,234 Speaker 3: people to. 117 00:06:03,274 --> 00:06:05,314 Speaker 2: Keep find on the patients who are the vulnerable. 118 00:06:05,393 --> 00:06:05,713 Speaker 1: Yeah. 119 00:06:05,834 --> 00:06:10,193 Speaker 4: Absolutely, Let's talk about the safe tan concept, the safe 120 00:06:10,274 --> 00:06:14,274 Speaker 4: tan no such thing, sorry tanners. A few things about 121 00:06:14,274 --> 00:06:16,153 Speaker 4: this which I think is fascinating. First of all, did 122 00:06:16,154 --> 00:06:19,994 Speaker 4: you know that getting a tan feels good because UV 123 00:06:20,193 --> 00:06:24,514 Speaker 4: light releases endorphins from your skin cells, known as kartoscience, 124 00:06:25,154 --> 00:06:27,473 Speaker 4: So no wonder people like getting it right because it 125 00:06:27,513 --> 00:06:29,633 Speaker 4: feels amazing. And there is such a thing you can 126 00:06:29,674 --> 00:06:33,313 Speaker 4: get addicted to having tanning called tannarexia for that reason. Oh, 127 00:06:33,433 --> 00:06:34,914 Speaker 4: I thought that was just a made up thing that 128 00:06:34,953 --> 00:06:37,354 Speaker 4: people don't the way it looks. It definitely does feel 129 00:06:37,433 --> 00:06:39,074 Speaker 4: nice to lie in the side. It does like of 130 00:06:39,113 --> 00:06:41,714 Speaker 4: course you are releasing indorphins. You're highs like after a big, 131 00:06:41,753 --> 00:06:44,593 Speaker 4: great workout. Yeah, yeah, addiction you may have feeling great 132 00:06:44,633 --> 00:06:47,354 Speaker 4: and cold therapy also has that similar response, right it 133 00:06:47,393 --> 00:06:49,913 Speaker 4: feel is good, though it does feel good exactly, however, 134 00:06:49,914 --> 00:06:52,753 Speaker 4: it is a good for us and if we're in moderation. However, 135 00:06:53,354 --> 00:06:57,193 Speaker 4: tanning is a sign of your little skin cells reaching out, 136 00:06:57,274 --> 00:07:00,514 Speaker 4: going into a reactive defense mechanism to try and protect 137 00:07:00,553 --> 00:07:04,153 Speaker 4: your DNA and your dermis from severe damage. So the 138 00:07:04,193 --> 00:07:06,873 Speaker 4: melana site gets stimulated, which is your pivot production cell 139 00:07:06,914 --> 00:07:09,034 Speaker 4: that's in all our skin, right sits at the base. 140 00:07:09,073 --> 00:07:11,594 Speaker 2: We're born with them. We don't make more of them. 141 00:07:11,274 --> 00:07:14,594 Speaker 4: And so it's a UV response to defend itself because melanin, 142 00:07:14,674 --> 00:07:17,634 Speaker 4: which is the tanning molecule that makes the skin brown 143 00:07:18,114 --> 00:07:21,514 Speaker 4: literally is there to try and stop the UV penetrating 144 00:07:21,594 --> 00:07:24,793 Speaker 4: and then damaging the DNA creating skin cancer, let alone 145 00:07:24,794 --> 00:07:27,754 Speaker 4: getting down as the dermis and creating accelerated photo aging. 146 00:07:27,914 --> 00:07:31,034 Speaker 4: So it is a stress response. It is not something 147 00:07:31,074 --> 00:07:34,074 Speaker 4: that is related to skin health. I know it can 148 00:07:34,154 --> 00:07:37,794 Speaker 4: look aesthetically pleasing, but I say fake it, don't bake it. 149 00:07:37,994 --> 00:07:40,994 Speaker 3: Yeah, love that, but can you clarify what people are 150 00:07:41,034 --> 00:07:44,474 Speaker 3: saying if what is it a safetam concept because that's 151 00:07:44,474 --> 00:07:45,354 Speaker 3: not on my algorithm. 152 00:07:45,834 --> 00:07:47,474 Speaker 1: So I feel like I've missed that trend. 153 00:07:47,594 --> 00:07:52,154 Speaker 4: I like your algorithm. Yeah, you're a smart algorithm of 154 00:07:52,194 --> 00:07:57,914 Speaker 4: life mode. Look, it's trendy. There's a lot of misinformation. Unfortunately. 155 00:07:58,514 --> 00:08:01,274 Speaker 4: You know, people like me who are conservative and professionals 156 00:08:01,314 --> 00:08:06,314 Speaker 4: and extremely well educated aren't as newsworthy as maybe some influencers. 157 00:08:06,354 --> 00:08:10,194 Speaker 4: And let's challenge old school but highly educated beliefs. And look, 158 00:08:10,194 --> 00:08:13,354 Speaker 4: I had a lovely patient sixteen coming the other day, 159 00:08:13,434 --> 00:08:16,273 Speaker 4: and the whole tan lines like a status symbol, you know, 160 00:08:16,474 --> 00:08:18,914 Speaker 4: like it. It's not a status symbol that is like 161 00:08:19,034 --> 00:08:20,033 Speaker 4: scary long term demmy. 162 00:08:20,114 --> 00:08:22,594 Speaker 3: It was also very trashy when I was sixteen, thank you. 163 00:08:22,714 --> 00:08:24,674 Speaker 3: It was trashy for me too when I was sixteen. 164 00:08:24,674 --> 00:08:26,593 Speaker 3: It's I'm not saying we were healthy. We would just 165 00:08:26,634 --> 00:08:29,234 Speaker 3: talk our brass straps off. But lately it was very 166 00:08:29,274 --> 00:08:30,674 Speaker 3: trashy to have that totally. 167 00:08:30,794 --> 00:08:33,354 Speaker 4: And I don't understand now why it's literally a status 168 00:08:33,394 --> 00:08:36,634 Speaker 4: symbol and people think it's cool because is in even 169 00:08:36,754 --> 00:08:38,394 Speaker 4: skin we all desire. 170 00:08:38,754 --> 00:08:41,074 Speaker 2: Yeah, I'm having a strapless top without I'd. 171 00:08:41,234 --> 00:08:43,354 Speaker 3: Put makeup if I ever had it totally even it 172 00:08:43,394 --> 00:08:44,074 Speaker 3: out totally. 173 00:08:44,194 --> 00:08:47,274 Speaker 4: So I'm confused. I think I'm perplexed. However, I think 174 00:08:47,274 --> 00:08:49,154 Speaker 4: it's a trend that's going to die pretty quick. 175 00:08:49,154 --> 00:08:49,514 Speaker 2: Story. 176 00:08:49,754 --> 00:08:52,474 Speaker 3: Yeah, because there surely aren't that many people commenting on 177 00:08:52,514 --> 00:08:55,474 Speaker 3: these videos going I love it, you look fantastic. 178 00:08:56,154 --> 00:08:57,754 Speaker 2: Now invest in something else to look great. 179 00:08:57,874 --> 00:08:58,514 Speaker 1: Yeah. 180 00:08:58,554 --> 00:09:03,994 Speaker 3: So, speaking of you know, the very catchy trendy TikTokers 181 00:09:04,074 --> 00:09:09,394 Speaker 3: or influencers that are jumping on differents and fads, what 182 00:09:09,634 --> 00:09:14,914 Speaker 3: would you say about misconceptions revolving around trends. 183 00:09:15,354 --> 00:09:18,474 Speaker 4: Oh, my goodness, Yeah, it's just I mean, I think 184 00:09:18,514 --> 00:09:21,594 Speaker 4: it's to the loudest voice, and that's a problem. There's 185 00:09:21,634 --> 00:09:25,034 Speaker 4: absolutely no critical thinking or reflection or boundaries around what 186 00:09:25,074 --> 00:09:26,834 Speaker 4: people can say on any platform. 187 00:09:26,954 --> 00:09:29,794 Speaker 2: There's no regulation, so people can literally be. 188 00:09:29,834 --> 00:09:34,114 Speaker 4: Extremely convincing and with a great sense of intestinal fortitude 189 00:09:34,234 --> 00:09:37,434 Speaker 4: to look like they're professional or knowing, but they're not. 190 00:09:38,434 --> 00:09:38,754 Speaker 2: I mean. 191 00:09:38,794 --> 00:09:42,714 Speaker 4: And the problem is highly educated people and professionals are 192 00:09:42,754 --> 00:09:45,954 Speaker 4: super regulated. So if it's just about to say they 193 00:09:46,074 --> 00:09:49,754 Speaker 4: step out of line, you actually pay an expensive price psychologically, emotionally, 194 00:09:49,794 --> 00:09:52,954 Speaker 4: and financially to be a real professional and educated, and 195 00:09:52,994 --> 00:09:55,474 Speaker 4: you have so many reporting bodies that will literally jump 196 00:09:55,474 --> 00:09:57,474 Speaker 4: onto you if you're slightly out of line, and if 197 00:09:57,514 --> 00:09:59,114 Speaker 4: you're misleading or deceptive. 198 00:09:59,674 --> 00:10:04,274 Speaker 2: These people have none. 199 00:10:05,714 --> 00:10:10,394 Speaker 3: Can we talk about genetics versus lifestyle because I think 200 00:10:10,474 --> 00:10:14,074 Speaker 3: that often we say like, oh, yeah, she's got really 201 00:10:14,074 --> 00:10:15,834 Speaker 3: good skin, but she's got good genes look at her. 202 00:10:15,914 --> 00:10:16,114 Speaker 1: Mum. 203 00:10:16,994 --> 00:10:18,714 Speaker 4: Well you can be born with good skin, but if 204 00:10:18,754 --> 00:10:20,754 Speaker 4: you have bad love style habits, you will pretty much 205 00:10:20,794 --> 00:10:24,754 Speaker 4: destroy that skin rapidly. So we know due to the 206 00:10:24,754 --> 00:10:27,194 Speaker 4: power of the they call it the skin aging exposone, 207 00:10:27,194 --> 00:10:31,394 Speaker 4: which is environmental influencers now and then how our lifestyle 208 00:10:31,474 --> 00:10:34,914 Speaker 4: can either turn certain aspects of our DNA on or 209 00:10:34,954 --> 00:10:37,834 Speaker 4: off outside of limitation, like yourself, your blue eyes. You 210 00:10:37,834 --> 00:10:39,754 Speaker 4: know you can't fix those, you're born with those that's 211 00:10:39,834 --> 00:10:43,194 Speaker 4: fixed DNA, but lots of other parts of our physiology 212 00:10:43,474 --> 00:10:46,914 Speaker 4: and particular it comes to skin, can be highly influenced 213 00:10:46,954 --> 00:10:50,594 Speaker 4: by our environments. So twenty percent is probably DNA fixed 214 00:10:50,874 --> 00:10:53,754 Speaker 4: and determined. Eighty percent we have do I use the 215 00:10:53,754 --> 00:10:57,714 Speaker 4: word influence over by what choices we make in our lifestyle. 216 00:10:57,794 --> 00:10:59,874 Speaker 4: So one of the biggest things that will accelerate to 217 00:10:59,954 --> 00:11:02,914 Speaker 4: tearating our skin health in turn, even if we're born 218 00:11:02,954 --> 00:11:06,674 Speaker 4: with amazing skin and genetics, is environmental exposure. And that's 219 00:11:06,714 --> 00:11:12,674 Speaker 4: basic UV, heat and pollution that is responsible for over 220 00:11:12,754 --> 00:11:16,154 Speaker 4: eighty percent of how our skin will perform and deteriorate 221 00:11:16,234 --> 00:11:18,954 Speaker 4: our skin health, let alone accelerated skin aging also known 222 00:11:18,994 --> 00:11:22,514 Speaker 4: as accelerated photo damage. So if we look at covered 223 00:11:22,554 --> 00:11:26,594 Speaker 4: areas and there's some incredible collaborative scientific work that was 224 00:11:26,634 --> 00:11:30,474 Speaker 4: done in the European Union and a paper published about 225 00:11:30,474 --> 00:11:33,634 Speaker 4: the skin aging exposoned by an author called crupment. If 226 00:11:33,674 --> 00:11:37,674 Speaker 4: we go out in the sun, we smoke, we expose 227 00:11:37,674 --> 00:11:40,154 Speaker 4: ourselves to high heat. Sorry saunter lovers, we can get 228 00:11:40,194 --> 00:11:42,994 Speaker 4: to that in a little bit, and pollution pretty much 229 00:11:43,194 --> 00:11:45,114 Speaker 4: our skin will age more rapidly than if we do not. 230 00:11:45,754 --> 00:11:48,074 Speaker 4: If you look at some areas where unless you're a 231 00:11:48,114 --> 00:11:49,954 Speaker 4: naked sun baca like the buttyck right, And if we 232 00:11:49,994 --> 00:11:51,914 Speaker 4: look at people in the eighties and nineties and then 233 00:11:51,914 --> 00:11:53,794 Speaker 4: we reassess and biot see that skin and look at 234 00:11:53,834 --> 00:11:57,714 Speaker 4: it compared to young skin, intrinsic aging. 235 00:11:57,434 --> 00:11:58,234 Speaker 2: Is not that bad. 236 00:11:58,474 --> 00:12:01,074 Speaker 4: We don't lose as much collagen as lesson as we 237 00:12:01,194 --> 00:12:04,474 Speaker 4: actually think we do. What really accelerates that it's not 238 00:12:04,514 --> 00:12:07,074 Speaker 4: our DNA, it's our lifestyle and our exposure. 239 00:12:07,554 --> 00:12:11,034 Speaker 3: That is so true. My butt skin is the same 240 00:12:11,074 --> 00:12:12,594 Speaker 3: as my toddlers like it. 241 00:12:12,714 --> 00:12:14,953 Speaker 1: Yes, exactly right. That is so exactly. 242 00:12:15,074 --> 00:12:17,674 Speaker 4: And then there was some amazing identical twin studies where 243 00:12:17,714 --> 00:12:19,953 Speaker 4: they looked at these are not the right names, but like, 244 00:12:20,034 --> 00:12:22,114 Speaker 4: so we had Cheryl who was in Massachusetts. They've got 245 00:12:22,154 --> 00:12:25,194 Speaker 4: low UV levels and didn't smoke and wore sunscreen and 246 00:12:25,874 --> 00:12:28,234 Speaker 4: did polarates and ate really well. And then we had 247 00:12:28,434 --> 00:12:31,114 Speaker 4: Shirley her sister, who was in Florida and like you know, 248 00:12:31,794 --> 00:12:34,994 Speaker 4: baked herself, didn't believe in SBF, smoked, ate, deep fried 249 00:12:35,034 --> 00:12:35,994 Speaker 4: food and grits. 250 00:12:36,034 --> 00:12:37,353 Speaker 2: And if you look. 251 00:12:37,194 --> 00:12:39,594 Speaker 4: At them how they look and what their perception of 252 00:12:39,674 --> 00:12:43,234 Speaker 4: skin age and actual ages, it's chalk and teas. Yeah, 253 00:12:43,354 --> 00:12:45,074 Speaker 4: one looks like it's the older sister. The other one 254 00:12:45,074 --> 00:12:47,074 Speaker 4: looks like it's you know, finishing high school. That's a 255 00:12:47,074 --> 00:12:50,354 Speaker 4: slight extension, but yeah, it's a very obvious difference. 256 00:12:50,354 --> 00:12:51,914 Speaker 1: Obvious, It's obvious. 257 00:12:52,074 --> 00:12:55,874 Speaker 4: And so look, my brother Bless Luke love you played 258 00:12:55,874 --> 00:12:58,394 Speaker 4: in the sandpit outdoors and I couldn't stand it. 259 00:12:58,434 --> 00:12:59,754 Speaker 2: And I was an indoor lego girl. 260 00:13:00,314 --> 00:13:02,953 Speaker 4: And look, I'm slightly older than my brother, but if 261 00:13:02,994 --> 00:13:05,354 Speaker 4: you look at our skin quality, there's a definite difference. 262 00:13:05,514 --> 00:13:08,754 Speaker 4: And also I've invested in my yeah, as a preventitive 263 00:13:08,754 --> 00:13:11,434 Speaker 4: aspect because that's my day job and that's my passion. 264 00:13:11,594 --> 00:13:14,953 Speaker 4: So it does really oh definitely one hundred percent. So 265 00:13:14,994 --> 00:13:17,554 Speaker 4: don't get disappointed people. If you were born with a 266 00:13:17,554 --> 00:13:20,794 Speaker 4: bit of DNA, it doesn't define your destiny. And there's 267 00:13:20,994 --> 00:13:24,034 Speaker 4: so many ways to change how your skin will look 268 00:13:24,274 --> 00:13:26,794 Speaker 4: and your skin health and having healthier, high functioning skin 269 00:13:26,834 --> 00:13:27,234 Speaker 4: for longer. 270 00:13:27,474 --> 00:13:28,234 Speaker 1: I've never heard. 271 00:13:28,194 --> 00:13:30,754 Speaker 3: Someone say that the sauna is not good for you before. 272 00:13:30,754 --> 00:13:32,354 Speaker 3: I mean, I don't really like this sauna, but I 273 00:13:32,394 --> 00:13:34,074 Speaker 3: thought that it was meant to be good for your skin. 274 00:13:34,914 --> 00:13:35,594 Speaker 2: No, it's not. 275 00:13:35,874 --> 00:13:38,314 Speaker 4: Ye, So in that real people that are really good 276 00:13:38,434 --> 00:13:41,914 Speaker 4: you know, meta analysis paper and many papers, and what 277 00:13:41,954 --> 00:13:44,794 Speaker 4: we do understand now, particularly with tricky formats of pigment 278 00:13:44,834 --> 00:13:47,114 Speaker 4: that are really difficult to manage, which is malasma. Right, 279 00:13:47,154 --> 00:13:49,754 Speaker 4: once you've got malasma, I hate to break the news, everybody, 280 00:13:49,954 --> 00:13:53,594 Speaker 4: you've always got malasma. And malasma isn't really pre programmed 281 00:13:53,634 --> 00:13:56,434 Speaker 4: by hormones, because every single woman who has the same 282 00:13:56,434 --> 00:13:59,034 Speaker 4: hormones would all get malasma and the incidence would be higher. 283 00:13:59,594 --> 00:14:04,194 Speaker 4: So it is UV exposure heat the preprograms to develop 284 00:14:04,234 --> 00:14:06,233 Speaker 4: things like malasma and drives pigmentation. 285 00:14:06,554 --> 00:14:08,674 Speaker 2: Then Obviously, your hormones. 286 00:14:08,154 --> 00:14:10,754 Speaker 4: Can be, particularly when you get pregnant, a trigger point 287 00:14:10,754 --> 00:14:13,114 Speaker 4: that manifests it, but they're not the primal cause. You 288 00:14:13,154 --> 00:14:15,314 Speaker 4: need these other factors in to be able to develop it. 289 00:14:15,794 --> 00:14:17,874 Speaker 4: And what we've realized in there was a big outbreak 290 00:14:17,914 --> 00:14:20,394 Speaker 4: in with my New York colleagues, like nearly a decade 291 00:14:20,394 --> 00:14:22,594 Speaker 4: ago when bickeram yoga was all the rage and so 292 00:14:22,674 --> 00:14:25,674 Speaker 4: these high and professional, smart evan who did everything right. 293 00:14:26,034 --> 00:14:27,674 Speaker 2: It's like why they got pigmentation. 294 00:14:27,874 --> 00:14:30,594 Speaker 4: You know, they have treatments, they wear sunscreen, they fit 295 00:14:30,634 --> 00:14:35,034 Speaker 4: and healthy, they self care, bicrom yoga, heat so and 296 00:14:35,154 --> 00:14:38,074 Speaker 4: we also know from those papers I've cited and the 297 00:14:38,194 --> 00:14:42,674 Speaker 4: impact of the skin aging expozoon heat exposure and infrared 298 00:14:42,994 --> 00:14:46,154 Speaker 4: which is what's the heats in the infrared. Saunas do 299 00:14:46,274 --> 00:14:50,594 Speaker 4: the same technical pathway damage that UVA and UVB do 300 00:14:51,074 --> 00:14:54,114 Speaker 4: but is slower. They activate the same college and last 301 00:14:54,194 --> 00:14:57,634 Speaker 4: and breakdown enzymes, they activate the same pigment enzymes. They 302 00:14:57,874 --> 00:15:00,754 Speaker 4: increase the fact that you can't make as much natural 303 00:15:00,834 --> 00:15:03,314 Speaker 4: moisturizer factors in your skin like UV does over time, 304 00:15:03,474 --> 00:15:07,754 Speaker 4: but it's just a slower, more indolent approach. Now I 305 00:15:07,794 --> 00:15:09,634 Speaker 4: don't want to make saunas and infragred if that's your 306 00:15:09,714 --> 00:15:12,874 Speaker 4: choice of life, wrong or power to you a lot. 307 00:15:12,874 --> 00:15:15,234 Speaker 4: When I was in Japan recently and did I go 308 00:15:15,274 --> 00:15:16,714 Speaker 4: and have an on set, and I was like, oh, yeah, 309 00:15:16,714 --> 00:15:18,114 Speaker 4: I kind of get this, but this is what I do. 310 00:15:18,394 --> 00:15:21,274 Speaker 4: I take it back advice like a severe lunatic. But 311 00:15:21,314 --> 00:15:23,394 Speaker 4: I'm into prevention, and I look at strategy like I 312 00:15:23,434 --> 00:15:25,994 Speaker 4: put the ice washes all over my face, my neck, 313 00:15:26,074 --> 00:15:27,274 Speaker 4: and my facial skin's. 314 00:15:26,994 --> 00:15:27,954 Speaker 2: Really cool and preserved. 315 00:15:28,354 --> 00:15:29,914 Speaker 4: I get the little bit of benefit of that heat 316 00:15:29,954 --> 00:15:33,594 Speaker 4: to feel relaxed and jump in the cold pool. But fundamentally, 317 00:15:33,794 --> 00:15:36,714 Speaker 4: if your primary driver in life and as a dermatologist 318 00:15:36,754 --> 00:15:38,634 Speaker 4: and a purist and an educator in this is to 319 00:15:38,674 --> 00:15:42,594 Speaker 4: have really good skin and pigment free heat treatments would 320 00:15:42,594 --> 00:15:44,074 Speaker 4: not be your number one choice. 321 00:15:44,154 --> 00:15:45,394 Speaker 2: So it's a trade off. 322 00:15:45,474 --> 00:15:47,154 Speaker 4: Like, ya, it's not me, he's sitting because I know 323 00:15:47,194 --> 00:15:49,394 Speaker 4: that I tend to trigger people going what. 324 00:15:49,394 --> 00:15:51,874 Speaker 2: Do you know? Well, a little bit, I guess, pretty educated. 325 00:15:51,914 --> 00:15:55,994 Speaker 1: But someone's in the saunagoon. What does she possibly know? 326 00:15:56,234 --> 00:15:57,354 Speaker 1: Oh just a bit. 327 00:15:57,474 --> 00:16:00,074 Speaker 4: I don't know, just a bit. So yes, we will 328 00:16:00,074 --> 00:16:02,834 Speaker 4: stir the pot. I'm sure by saying saunas and infrared 329 00:16:02,914 --> 00:16:05,874 Speaker 4: is bad for your skin. However, there are other benefits ye. 330 00:16:06,194 --> 00:16:09,194 Speaker 4: And it's literally having an educated approach of what you're 331 00:16:09,194 --> 00:16:13,074 Speaker 4: happy to sacrifice for certain benefits in life. 332 00:16:12,994 --> 00:16:16,634 Speaker 3: Over complicating your skincare routine. Do you think a lot 333 00:16:16,674 --> 00:16:19,394 Speaker 3: of people are doing that. Yeah, for lots of reasons. 334 00:16:19,434 --> 00:16:22,634 Speaker 4: I think the whole hyper focus on the presentation of 335 00:16:22,674 --> 00:16:26,514 Speaker 4: the external self, which is supported by the visual structure 336 00:16:26,514 --> 00:16:30,314 Speaker 4: of social media, has driven an obsession with I need 337 00:16:30,314 --> 00:16:32,634 Speaker 4: to look like I've got glassy, perfect skin, et cetera, etc. 338 00:16:32,914 --> 00:16:35,194 Speaker 4: And then people have filters, and then it's hard to 339 00:16:35,234 --> 00:16:39,634 Speaker 4: defy with the brain what's reality versus what's maybe tricked. 340 00:16:39,434 --> 00:16:41,274 Speaker 1: Just real skin exactly. 341 00:16:41,434 --> 00:16:44,874 Speaker 4: So I think then people are pressured into, oh my god, 342 00:16:44,994 --> 00:16:46,794 Speaker 4: this is what I'm lacking, this is what I'm lacking. 343 00:16:46,834 --> 00:16:48,154 Speaker 4: I need to get this, I need to get that, 344 00:16:48,474 --> 00:16:51,554 Speaker 4: the whole Korean phase, which quite frankly, I find a 345 00:16:51,594 --> 00:16:53,994 Speaker 4: bit culty. I'm not saying some products are good, but 346 00:16:54,034 --> 00:16:58,434 Speaker 4: these complicated routines are incredibly unnecessary for results. They also 347 00:16:58,714 --> 00:17:02,194 Speaker 4: indient on your bank account small withderals and deposits, and 348 00:17:02,354 --> 00:17:05,714 Speaker 4: there is a syndrome which I see and I've colloquially 349 00:17:05,793 --> 00:17:09,833 Speaker 4: termed and named cause medic confusion or cosmetic clutter. So 350 00:17:09,994 --> 00:17:13,674 Speaker 4: overuse of skincare products can literally compromise to barrier function, 351 00:17:13,874 --> 00:17:19,114 Speaker 4: increase inflammation, and drive conditions particularly like parofficial dermatitis too 352 00:17:19,194 --> 00:17:23,114 Speaker 4: much in the skin, destroying the natural equilibrium how skin 353 00:17:23,194 --> 00:17:25,994 Speaker 4: really needs to function, and then to the point that 354 00:17:26,034 --> 00:17:29,714 Speaker 4: starts acting out and crying out and redness, sensitivity, exacerbations 355 00:17:29,714 --> 00:17:33,594 Speaker 4: of things like rosation, perificial dirm and even potentially driving 356 00:17:33,634 --> 00:17:35,554 Speaker 4: some forms of pigment become problems. 357 00:17:35,954 --> 00:17:37,354 Speaker 2: So simplicity is key. 358 00:17:37,474 --> 00:17:41,114 Speaker 4: So and often I'm approached with these buckets of skincare 359 00:17:41,194 --> 00:17:44,234 Speaker 4: and products and all these things, and we literally go 360 00:17:44,314 --> 00:17:47,034 Speaker 4: through them. And it's quite funny, I mean in a 361 00:17:47,114 --> 00:17:50,634 Speaker 4: nice way, not bad, Like I'm like, girlfriends too much? 362 00:17:51,114 --> 00:17:54,114 Speaker 4: Why are you buying all this stuff? The education is 363 00:17:54,114 --> 00:17:56,914 Speaker 4: the problem, and there's so much of it. And I 364 00:17:57,074 --> 00:17:59,033 Speaker 4: literally am honest with my patients. I go, if I 365 00:17:59,234 --> 00:18:03,474 Speaker 4: did not still have these incredible foundations of knowledge that 366 00:18:03,474 --> 00:18:05,954 Speaker 4: I have built repetitively over a couple of decades being 367 00:18:05,954 --> 00:18:07,954 Speaker 4: on this planet, I said, I would feel like you 368 00:18:07,994 --> 00:18:10,994 Speaker 4: and I'd probably do the same thing. So it's like decluttering, 369 00:18:11,074 --> 00:18:14,114 Speaker 4: it's simplicity, it's calming the skin down. It's less, it's more, 370 00:18:14,194 --> 00:18:17,074 Speaker 4: it's getting the barrier back healthy. Then it's reintroducing things 371 00:18:17,114 --> 00:18:19,954 Speaker 4: that are biologically going to be beneficial for you. And 372 00:18:20,194 --> 00:18:23,114 Speaker 4: I don't believe you need really more than three steps morning, 373 00:18:23,234 --> 00:18:26,634 Speaker 4: three steps night, followed by SPF plus and minus makeup 374 00:18:26,794 --> 00:18:30,034 Speaker 4: and maybe you know a little treatment ahab bill once 375 00:18:30,074 --> 00:18:32,154 Speaker 4: a fortnite in your skin that you can do safely 376 00:18:32,154 --> 00:18:34,754 Speaker 4: at home that replaces the inconvenience of going to clinics. 377 00:18:34,834 --> 00:18:37,634 Speaker 4: That's my philosophy when it comes to routines, what sort 378 00:18:37,634 --> 00:18:40,714 Speaker 4: of category so steps are? So I believe cleansing morning 379 00:18:40,714 --> 00:18:43,234 Speaker 4: and night's super important. I love cleansing, but the cleansing 380 00:18:43,274 --> 00:18:46,434 Speaker 4: should be non stripping, non aggregating, non beads, non scrubbing, 381 00:18:46,514 --> 00:18:49,833 Speaker 4: so things that can clean the skin but not make 382 00:18:49,874 --> 00:18:52,033 Speaker 4: it feel taut and tight afterwards. If you're feeling that 383 00:18:52,074 --> 00:18:55,434 Speaker 4: when you're using a cleanser, it's potentially taking too much 384 00:18:55,434 --> 00:18:58,114 Speaker 4: good stuff and then overdoing the job because people get 385 00:18:58,114 --> 00:18:59,793 Speaker 4: obsessed with not seeing one bit of makeup if they 386 00:18:59,794 --> 00:19:02,914 Speaker 4: tael dry you know what, Like, you don't have to overcleanse. 387 00:19:03,394 --> 00:19:04,354 Speaker 4: We're not dirty. 388 00:19:04,394 --> 00:19:04,874 Speaker 2: Per se. 389 00:19:05,114 --> 00:19:08,434 Speaker 4: It's literally taking off the majority body, not taking out 390 00:19:08,434 --> 00:19:10,754 Speaker 4: the good things, and it should feel soft and hydrated. 391 00:19:10,794 --> 00:19:11,474 Speaker 2: That process. 392 00:19:12,154 --> 00:19:14,914 Speaker 4: Serums are usually your next step because you've prepped the 393 00:19:14,954 --> 00:19:17,434 Speaker 4: palette and they are biologically more accepted and to get 394 00:19:17,474 --> 00:19:20,474 Speaker 4: in if they are applied first as a finer formulation and 395 00:19:20,554 --> 00:19:23,593 Speaker 4: my kind of go tos in serums or a multihabha approach. 396 00:19:23,634 --> 00:19:26,793 Speaker 4: You don't have to have a salicily galactica glycolic one 397 00:19:26,834 --> 00:19:28,754 Speaker 4: of the ones we have. It combines all of that, 398 00:19:28,914 --> 00:19:31,553 Speaker 4: It cuts down on clutter, and all these different has 399 00:19:31,594 --> 00:19:35,194 Speaker 4: have different biological benefits to work on different key skin concerns, 400 00:19:35,194 --> 00:19:38,674 Speaker 4: all in the simple one step program moisturizing. And this 401 00:19:38,794 --> 00:19:40,794 Speaker 4: is for men and women because men kind of had 402 00:19:40,794 --> 00:19:44,994 Speaker 4: these processes and programming in Australia that moisturizing is feminizing them. No, 403 00:19:45,194 --> 00:19:48,394 Speaker 4: it's really important for skin health and preventing skin problems, 404 00:19:48,874 --> 00:19:52,594 Speaker 4: so hydrated skin will always perform a thousand times better 405 00:19:52,634 --> 00:19:56,033 Speaker 4: than dry skin. That's also a misconception and misbelief when 406 00:19:56,074 --> 00:19:58,914 Speaker 4: it comes to acne. Drying skin out is so old school. 407 00:19:59,034 --> 00:20:01,994 Speaker 4: Your natural celex following enzymes and your barry function needs 408 00:20:02,034 --> 00:20:04,833 Speaker 4: moisturized to perform well and that will give you less acne. 409 00:20:04,834 --> 00:20:07,394 Speaker 4: Lot more is just finding the right moisturizer. You get 410 00:20:07,434 --> 00:20:09,634 Speaker 4: a nice cinemat in it too, really good because it 411 00:20:09,674 --> 00:20:13,594 Speaker 4: works in all the key skin concerns barrow strengthening, reducing sensitivity, 412 00:20:13,754 --> 00:20:17,674 Speaker 4: calming rosata, and improving SEBAM regulations. 413 00:20:17,674 --> 00:20:20,514 Speaker 2: So great for acne sufferers. So that's your first three. 414 00:20:20,634 --> 00:20:23,874 Speaker 4: Then obviously essential every day whether you're in office going out, 415 00:20:23,954 --> 00:20:27,634 Speaker 4: which finding SPF therefore that's elegant. You love wearing tinse 416 00:20:27,714 --> 00:20:31,354 Speaker 4: non tins. Tins possibly better if you really pimentation prone, 417 00:20:31,434 --> 00:20:32,794 Speaker 4: but you know it's not a deal breaker. If it's 418 00:20:32,834 --> 00:20:35,434 Speaker 4: non tinted, then plus and mine it's finished off your makeup. 419 00:20:35,514 --> 00:20:37,834 Speaker 4: So that's my am approach to life. My parent approach 420 00:20:37,834 --> 00:20:40,674 Speaker 4: to life is cleansing again. So I know people go like, oh, 421 00:20:40,714 --> 00:20:43,194 Speaker 4: one step cleansing. No, I like to prep and awaken 422 00:20:43,234 --> 00:20:45,513 Speaker 4: the skin for your delivery systems in the morning that 423 00:20:45,674 --> 00:20:50,314 Speaker 4: I like to remove to breed dirt, SPF, inflammation from 424 00:20:50,354 --> 00:20:52,794 Speaker 4: being out in the environment, so we know their environmental aggresses. 425 00:20:52,994 --> 00:20:54,914 Speaker 4: The do effect ole skin for the evening. It's also 426 00:20:54,914 --> 00:20:57,394 Speaker 4: beautiful for a night routine. Then I look at all 427 00:20:57,434 --> 00:21:03,074 Speaker 4: my anti inflammatory barrier restoring you know, antioxidant vitamin cs 428 00:21:03,114 --> 00:21:06,874 Speaker 4: B three's ease HAPEP tie based serums. Again, I put 429 00:21:06,874 --> 00:21:08,954 Speaker 4: all that into one because I don't believe in lines 430 00:21:08,954 --> 00:21:12,234 Speaker 4: splitting out. That's just really complicated for your bank account, 431 00:21:12,234 --> 00:21:15,154 Speaker 4: and it also over complicates the skin. And you will 432 00:21:15,274 --> 00:21:19,714 Speaker 4: usually go for a more enriching overnight barrier building furst quenching, 433 00:21:19,994 --> 00:21:23,274 Speaker 4: moisturizing at night to restore skin while you're sleeping. 434 00:21:23,874 --> 00:21:25,954 Speaker 2: And I don't really see why I need much more 435 00:21:25,994 --> 00:21:26,274 Speaker 2: than that. 436 00:21:26,594 --> 00:21:27,754 Speaker 1: What are your thoughts on vitamin a? 437 00:21:28,354 --> 00:21:31,434 Speaker 4: Love vitamin a now, as a purist and as somebody 438 00:21:31,514 --> 00:21:33,954 Speaker 4: who has the capacity to be how to write prescriptions, 439 00:21:34,754 --> 00:21:37,194 Speaker 4: I am a fan of prescriptive of a non prescription 440 00:21:37,394 --> 00:21:40,594 Speaker 4: for many reasons. So the hardcore studies that were done 441 00:21:40,634 --> 00:21:44,154 Speaker 4: on the eighties, which were incredibly rigorous, and that's where 442 00:21:44,194 --> 00:21:46,234 Speaker 4: we should be looking at all new, latest and greatest 443 00:21:46,274 --> 00:21:48,474 Speaker 4: if it can stand up to the backing of all 444 00:21:48,514 --> 00:21:52,273 Speaker 4: the original science behind ingredients like AHA's and prescriptive A, 445 00:21:52,394 --> 00:21:55,594 Speaker 4: which is the retinoic acid formula. Vitamin a comes in 446 00:21:55,634 --> 00:21:58,834 Speaker 4: about six to eight different relicular constructs, right, and so 447 00:21:58,994 --> 00:22:01,793 Speaker 4: the retinoic acid is actually in the pure format that 448 00:22:01,834 --> 00:22:04,674 Speaker 4: binds to the actual direct soluitar receptors in the skin 449 00:22:04,714 --> 00:22:08,154 Speaker 4: that then just works those little sceptors accord, rx, R, 450 00:22:08,394 --> 00:22:11,634 Speaker 4: and RAR, and they work in dimers, and different forms 451 00:22:11,674 --> 00:22:14,594 Speaker 4: of prescriptive vitam work on different pathways to get different 452 00:22:14,634 --> 00:22:17,634 Speaker 4: benefits in the skin. Some are more acne benefit, which 453 00:22:17,714 --> 00:22:19,754 Speaker 4: is like products called adapoline. 454 00:22:19,834 --> 00:22:20,474 Speaker 2: Is that molecule. 455 00:22:20,874 --> 00:22:23,594 Speaker 4: Some are more pigmentation and reversing photo damage and that's 456 00:22:23,714 --> 00:22:27,954 Speaker 4: more tretno one, okay, But they're all vitabit a prescriptive families. 457 00:22:28,154 --> 00:22:30,834 Speaker 2: So they're the studied form. They're in the form that 458 00:22:30,874 --> 00:22:31,874 Speaker 2: needs to go to the receptors. 459 00:22:32,034 --> 00:22:35,674 Speaker 4: So why wouldn't I give the most effective scientific proven 460 00:22:35,994 --> 00:22:39,434 Speaker 4: off my patients. In contrast, retinol, retinail, retten oul to 461 00:22:39,474 --> 00:22:41,994 Speaker 4: Howard are in a different format, and these can be 462 00:22:42,034 --> 00:22:44,273 Speaker 4: over the counter. They must go through a couple of 463 00:22:44,434 --> 00:22:48,154 Speaker 4: enzymic processes in the skin to convert to the active molecule, 464 00:22:48,194 --> 00:22:49,434 Speaker 4: which is retinic acid. 465 00:22:49,554 --> 00:22:50,994 Speaker 2: To then execute efficacy. 466 00:22:51,154 --> 00:22:53,514 Speaker 4: Now, there are problems in understanding how much of those 467 00:22:53,874 --> 00:22:56,914 Speaker 4: formulas do make the conversion, and it's probably only about 468 00:22:56,914 --> 00:22:58,914 Speaker 4: twenty five percent of what's in there. We'll end up 469 00:22:58,914 --> 00:23:01,234 Speaker 4: at retinoic acid to work, and then how much of 470 00:23:01,314 --> 00:23:03,514 Speaker 4: that process, So it's hard to measure. Doesn't make them bad, 471 00:23:03,954 --> 00:23:07,394 Speaker 4: doesn't make them wrong. But that's my scientific reasoning. Say 472 00:23:07,434 --> 00:23:09,794 Speaker 4: to be oh, but you know prescript you vitamin a 473 00:23:10,034 --> 00:23:13,674 Speaker 4: gives you sensitization and retinoid dermatizers. Well, it's just a 474 00:23:13,754 --> 00:23:16,754 Speaker 4: sign it's overworking. It's actually not a bad sign because 475 00:23:16,834 --> 00:23:18,554 Speaker 4: what is one of the things that retino cactus missed 476 00:23:18,554 --> 00:23:20,954 Speaker 4: to do which makes it benefit. It improves cell turnover, 477 00:23:21,314 --> 00:23:23,834 Speaker 4: so it gets rid of sluggish, lazy and pre cancer cells. 478 00:23:24,394 --> 00:23:27,354 Speaker 4: Helps therefore with cell turner and follicles therefore beneficial prevent 479 00:23:27,434 --> 00:23:30,074 Speaker 4: congestion for acne and also gets through to pigment and 480 00:23:30,114 --> 00:23:32,754 Speaker 4: sun damage cells, which makes skin look more luminous radiant. 481 00:23:32,514 --> 00:23:33,434 Speaker 2: Prevents skin cancer. 482 00:23:33,954 --> 00:23:36,594 Speaker 4: So if it's overworking the dough, which you can right, 483 00:23:37,114 --> 00:23:39,234 Speaker 4: it's a sign it's working see pullback. So I never 484 00:23:39,314 --> 00:23:42,514 Speaker 4: recommend prescribing it initially at least more than three nights 485 00:23:42,554 --> 00:23:45,754 Speaker 4: a week, putting it on over moisturizer the reason why. 486 00:23:46,074 --> 00:23:47,634 Speaker 4: And you don't need to sandwich it just to lootes 487 00:23:47,674 --> 00:23:50,474 Speaker 4: it down. Vitamin a is lipophilic, what does that mean, 488 00:23:50,834 --> 00:23:52,954 Speaker 4: vitamin A loves things that got a little bit of 489 00:23:52,994 --> 00:23:55,514 Speaker 4: oil and moisturizing in it. It makes it penetrate through 490 00:23:55,554 --> 00:23:57,914 Speaker 4: the skin better. Therefore it's going to deliver more results 491 00:23:57,914 --> 00:24:00,794 Speaker 4: of your skin. So a smidge piece size dotted out 492 00:24:01,234 --> 00:24:04,513 Speaker 4: after your last step of moisturizing in the evening Monday, Wednesday, 493 00:24:04,554 --> 00:24:07,354 Speaker 4: Friday nights. Amazing results. And I don't get all of 494 00:24:07,434 --> 00:24:10,034 Speaker 4: these side effects actually just a sign it's kind of 495 00:24:10,074 --> 00:24:10,874 Speaker 4: working a bit too much. 496 00:24:11,154 --> 00:24:12,074 Speaker 2: So just dial it back. 497 00:24:12,154 --> 00:24:14,034 Speaker 4: If you like going to the gym. So I speak 498 00:24:14,034 --> 00:24:16,154 Speaker 4: to my patients, I'm like, you know, if you're going 499 00:24:16,194 --> 00:24:18,034 Speaker 4: to go and pick up the two hundred kilogram wight, 500 00:24:18,154 --> 00:24:19,794 Speaker 4: you're going to rip your muscles. If we start with 501 00:24:19,834 --> 00:24:22,154 Speaker 4: five kg's, we got a ten one day, you might 502 00:24:22,194 --> 00:24:24,754 Speaker 4: get to the two hundred. So you go slow, you 503 00:24:24,874 --> 00:24:27,594 Speaker 4: go regular, you prescribe it in the right ways that's 504 00:24:27,714 --> 00:24:30,674 Speaker 4: supported by science. Bingo, you have results, and then we'll 505 00:24:30,714 --> 00:24:33,234 Speaker 4: cost affective for the patient, like they're half the price 506 00:24:34,234 --> 00:24:35,194 Speaker 4: over supplementing. 507 00:24:35,514 --> 00:24:38,754 Speaker 3: Yes, is this when you're referring to this, do you 508 00:24:38,874 --> 00:24:43,074 Speaker 3: mean like the stacks? Now people do their supplement stacks, Yes, 509 00:24:43,474 --> 00:24:46,394 Speaker 3: like the Bengal stacks. Bengal stacks probably more expensive than 510 00:24:46,394 --> 00:24:47,114 Speaker 3: supplement studding. 511 00:24:47,154 --> 00:24:49,754 Speaker 1: But yes, oh, supplement stacking can be very expensive. 512 00:24:49,834 --> 00:24:50,594 Speaker 2: It can well. 513 00:24:50,874 --> 00:24:55,394 Speaker 4: First thing, substituting diet for supplements is a no. Your 514 00:24:55,434 --> 00:24:58,154 Speaker 4: foundational diet every single day is one, and most of 515 00:24:58,194 --> 00:25:00,994 Speaker 4: the answers do line food and I guess being busy 516 00:25:01,354 --> 00:25:03,554 Speaker 4: and sometimes we always not all over the fact that 517 00:25:03,634 --> 00:25:06,034 Speaker 4: we can have all the nutrients in our fridge every 518 00:25:06,074 --> 00:25:09,634 Speaker 4: single day means that sometimes supplementing can be beneficial. And 519 00:25:09,674 --> 00:25:12,314 Speaker 4: there are also some supplements when given beyond just more 520 00:25:12,394 --> 00:25:16,874 Speaker 4: recommended daily intating getting food can give us proven biological 521 00:25:16,914 --> 00:25:19,474 Speaker 4: benefits and there's a handful that I believe in and 522 00:25:19,554 --> 00:25:21,234 Speaker 4: I do try and take myself every day. I'm not 523 00:25:21,354 --> 00:25:24,234 Speaker 4: fantastic because I'm busy and sometimes I have my supplements 524 00:25:24,234 --> 00:25:26,394 Speaker 4: at work, etc. But I still prioritize my diet as 525 00:25:26,394 --> 00:25:29,554 Speaker 4: one or my food groups and make sure that's the 526 00:25:29,674 --> 00:25:32,914 Speaker 4: essential because as I say, supplements are not substitutes. They 527 00:25:32,954 --> 00:25:36,273 Speaker 4: are literally a supplement, so a really good multibe. It's 528 00:25:36,314 --> 00:25:39,034 Speaker 4: not a bad IDEA problem is overloading with B six. 529 00:25:39,154 --> 00:25:42,273 Speaker 4: B six can create neurodegenerat problems. I actually have a 530 00:25:42,354 --> 00:25:45,354 Speaker 4: patient at the moment who's got complete peripheral neuropathy from 531 00:25:45,434 --> 00:25:47,914 Speaker 4: overloading with over the counter B six, not knowing because 532 00:25:47,914 --> 00:25:50,594 Speaker 4: it wasn't declared, so it was in several supplements, and 533 00:25:50,834 --> 00:25:53,834 Speaker 4: she can't feel her feet and she's forty something years 534 00:25:53,834 --> 00:25:57,434 Speaker 4: of age, beautiful, highly active, wonderful until she's one of 535 00:25:57,474 --> 00:25:59,474 Speaker 4: those stats that it's come up. Hence there's a bit 536 00:25:59,514 --> 00:26:01,714 Speaker 4: of investigation by the TG and some warnings coming out. 537 00:26:02,034 --> 00:26:05,234 Speaker 4: It is a reality, So by beware, I do believe 538 00:26:05,274 --> 00:26:08,114 Speaker 4: in vitamin D. It's because I think vitamin D in 539 00:26:08,234 --> 00:26:12,034 Speaker 4: a good brand that's you know, sourced well versus trying 540 00:26:12,034 --> 00:26:12,754 Speaker 4: to rely on the sun. 541 00:26:12,834 --> 00:26:13,474 Speaker 2: It's far better. 542 00:26:13,554 --> 00:26:16,194 Speaker 4: We also know it protects brain, it protects bones, it 543 00:26:16,274 --> 00:26:20,914 Speaker 4: protects skin. Magnesium has multiple benefits when given in supplementation 544 00:26:21,914 --> 00:26:25,594 Speaker 4: for brain health, particularly. There are different molecular constructs of 545 00:26:25,674 --> 00:26:28,434 Speaker 4: the magnesium. One's better for the muscle, one's better for 546 00:26:28,514 --> 00:26:30,874 Speaker 4: the sleep, one's better for inflammation. There's some brands that 547 00:26:30,954 --> 00:26:33,354 Speaker 4: have like about three variants in one and let me think, 548 00:26:33,354 --> 00:26:35,954 Speaker 4: and they're nice. Cinema is another supplement alike. It's hard 549 00:26:35,994 --> 00:26:39,274 Speaker 4: to get those levels in what's been proven in certain studies, 550 00:26:39,514 --> 00:26:40,994 Speaker 4: so they're kind of my takes. 551 00:26:47,754 --> 00:26:47,994 Speaker 1: Head. 552 00:26:48,354 --> 00:26:50,874 Speaker 3: You've made one of the greatest discoveries of all time 553 00:26:51,554 --> 00:26:56,754 Speaker 3: or a miss never again never. So this is all 554 00:26:56,794 --> 00:26:59,234 Speaker 3: about how you feel, so tell us if you rate 555 00:26:59,354 --> 00:27:01,793 Speaker 3: or hate these comic care, skin care and wellness. 556 00:27:01,874 --> 00:27:04,794 Speaker 2: I'll try to be not too controversially, but I love it. 557 00:27:04,914 --> 00:27:06,954 Speaker 3: I love like have an opinion about things like, Okay, 558 00:27:07,114 --> 00:27:10,754 Speaker 3: all right, but when people are just dilly dally around topics, okay, boring, 559 00:27:10,914 --> 00:27:12,034 Speaker 3: all right, I'm encouraged. 560 00:27:12,074 --> 00:27:14,793 Speaker 1: Now menopause skincare, it's no. 561 00:27:15,154 --> 00:27:16,914 Speaker 4: Because the skin care you do at thirty should be 562 00:27:16,914 --> 00:27:18,554 Speaker 4: pretty much the same as what you do at fifty. 563 00:27:18,634 --> 00:27:20,354 Speaker 4: What your footy eats thirty, like what you're not gonna 564 00:27:20,354 --> 00:27:22,313 Speaker 4: eat blueberries at thirty, and also you should eat blueberries 565 00:27:22,354 --> 00:27:24,594 Speaker 4: at fifty, not gone the right protein at thirty. But 566 00:27:24,634 --> 00:27:27,114 Speaker 4: also you've got to eat more like really, people have 567 00:27:27,274 --> 00:27:30,954 Speaker 4: over complicated the whole menopause experience because it's now become industry. 568 00:27:31,274 --> 00:27:33,114 Speaker 1: So become something that people can totally. 569 00:27:33,314 --> 00:27:33,994 Speaker 2: The main thing. 570 00:27:34,154 --> 00:27:37,033 Speaker 4: Different you should do is whar more heavier moisturizers if 571 00:27:37,074 --> 00:27:40,793 Speaker 4: your skin's dryer, all the same active ingredient profiling from 572 00:27:40,834 --> 00:27:42,674 Speaker 4: a prevention point of view at thirty should be the same. 573 00:27:42,714 --> 00:27:45,834 Speaker 4: What you're doing in your forties and fifties and then 574 00:27:45,874 --> 00:27:47,834 Speaker 4: get onto HRT. That's the main difference. What are you 575 00:27:47,914 --> 00:27:52,314 Speaker 4: losing in collagen from the fact from estrogen's down and 576 00:27:52,434 --> 00:27:55,273 Speaker 4: therefore replace your estrogen with whether it patches or gels, 577 00:27:55,394 --> 00:27:58,274 Speaker 4: put that systemic collagen back to where it wasn't it's thirties, 578 00:27:58,674 --> 00:28:02,354 Speaker 4: and just keep on moving people injectable peptides. I keep 579 00:28:02,714 --> 00:28:04,994 Speaker 4: rubbish at this point in time, I'm I'm going to 580 00:28:05,074 --> 00:28:07,714 Speaker 4: call out rubbish. Okay, haters, go for me, But there 581 00:28:07,794 --> 00:28:11,513 Speaker 4: is not enough clean, robust, repetitive, high end science that 582 00:28:11,714 --> 00:28:15,833 Speaker 4: is with controlled studies, like taking away all other factors 583 00:28:15,874 --> 00:28:19,833 Speaker 4: that could give you positives and just using the peptides alone. 584 00:28:20,474 --> 00:28:24,154 Speaker 4: There are hundreds of thousands of peptides. Certain ones are 585 00:28:24,154 --> 00:28:27,513 Speaker 4: more trendy. People can't clearly tell what pathways they work on. 586 00:28:28,154 --> 00:28:32,434 Speaker 4: It's just used as this massive inflammatory umbrella marketing term. 587 00:28:33,154 --> 00:28:37,194 Speaker 4: Unlike the science that's stood behind topical prescriptive retino casti, 588 00:28:37,234 --> 00:28:41,154 Speaker 4: vitamin A. You cannot dispute until these things like peptides 589 00:28:41,154 --> 00:28:44,994 Speaker 4: and exosomes and all these fancy pants umbrella terms can 590 00:28:45,034 --> 00:28:47,914 Speaker 4: break down each active and green they're talking about and 591 00:28:48,034 --> 00:28:51,474 Speaker 4: showed the replicable pathways and replicable science to the same 592 00:28:51,594 --> 00:28:54,434 Speaker 4: standards as what we know and understand, and contrast in 593 00:28:54,474 --> 00:28:55,314 Speaker 4: prescriptive vitamin A. 594 00:28:56,194 --> 00:28:57,314 Speaker 2: I just don't think it's there yet. 595 00:28:57,914 --> 00:29:01,274 Speaker 3: And it's also like wild people are buying it old 596 00:29:01,354 --> 00:29:03,794 Speaker 3: mates on the street and then injecting it. 597 00:29:04,234 --> 00:29:06,914 Speaker 2: Yeah, like it's yet. No, it could do more harm. 598 00:29:07,114 --> 00:29:09,914 Speaker 4: And also just because it seems latest and greatest doesn't 599 00:29:09,994 --> 00:29:12,994 Speaker 4: mean it replaces tried and tested And that's it. 600 00:29:13,514 --> 00:29:15,394 Speaker 3: Thank you so much for listening, and make sure you're 601 00:29:15,394 --> 00:29:18,394 Speaker 3: following us on Instagram and TikTok and you can watch 602 00:29:18,474 --> 00:29:21,434 Speaker 3: this and more episodes on our YouTube channel, so head 603 00:29:21,474 --> 00:29:23,314 Speaker 3: over there and subscribe for now. 604 00:29:23,514 --> 00:29:25,874 Speaker 1: Thanks for joining me, and I'll be back next week. Bye. 605 00:29:36,674 --> 00:29:39,554 Speaker 3: Mamma Mia acknowledges the traditional owners of the land. We 606 00:29:39,674 --> 00:29:42,674 Speaker 3: have recorded this podcast on the Gadigo people of the 607 00:29:42,754 --> 00:29:46,114 Speaker 3: Eor nation. We pay our respects to their elders past 608 00:29:46,154 --> 00:29:49,514 Speaker 3: and present, and extend that respect to all Aboriginal and 609 00:29:49,594 --> 00:29:50,954 Speaker 3: Torres Strait islander cultures.