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Speaker 1: You're listening to a MoMA Mia podcast.

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Speaker 2: Mama Maya acknowledges the traditional owners of land and waters

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Speaker 2: that this podcast is recorded on. I always think it's

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Speaker 2: totally unnecessary to use something expensive that's not a leve

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Speaker 2: On product, So I do have a couple of really

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Speaker 2: affordable cleanses that I really like.

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Speaker 1: Makeup is my therapy. I'm in love, I'm obsessed, and

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Speaker 1: I'm Donnie feel chailty about it.

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Speaker 3: Hello, and welcome to You Beauty, the daily podcast for

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Speaker 3: your faith. I'm Arion Doherty and welcome to the formula.

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Speaker 3: Every week I sit down with celebs and some of

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Speaker 3: the biggest names in beauty and take a look into

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Speaker 3: their skincareteines. Today, I've got another skin expert in the

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Speaker 3: hot seat. We're very excited. She's a bit of a

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Speaker 3: regular voice on Mamma Mia and You Beauty. Her name

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Speaker 3: is doctor Catherine Ahma and she's a cosmetic and medical dermatologist,

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Speaker 3: skincare expert and the founder of her own science facked

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Speaker 3: skincare company. She's worked with thousands of patients in clinic

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Speaker 3: where she uses cutting edge techniques, devices and products to

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Speaker 3: give her patients the best skin that science can off off.

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Speaker 3: In her time as a skin expert, she's seen a

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Speaker 3: lot and she really understands the key issues and the

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Speaker 3: wants and needs of women when it comes to healing

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Speaker 3: their skin. In a recent article in the Journal of

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Speaker 3: Cosmetic Dermatology, doctor Arma presented her findings in defining, assessing,

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Speaker 3: and achieving skin glow. Come on, we're talking to the

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Speaker 3: lady who knows the science behind glowing skin. Today, We're

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Speaker 3: going to deep dive with doctor Amah about the most

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Speaker 3: common skin issues that affect women at different stages of

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Speaker 3: their life. The over hyped skincare ingredients making our skin worse,

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Speaker 3: and the ultra calming barrier supporting products that she uses

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Speaker 3: on her own face. Basically everything a skin doctor puts

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Speaker 3: on her face all tied up in a nice little

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Speaker 3: package so you and honestly me can copy it.

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Speaker 1: You are such beautiful skin, But how doctor Katherine Hmer,

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Speaker 1: thank you so much for jumping on the You Beauty

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Speaker 1: podcast with me.

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Speaker 3: I feel like I know you so well. I'm always

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Speaker 3: bugging you for skincare tips. Let's just roll right in here.

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Speaker 3: How would you describe your skincare routine in three words?

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Speaker 2: Super simple, effective, love it love it, love it.

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Speaker 3: In your practice as a dermatologist, you've obviously seen so

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Speaker 3: many women walk through your doors with different skin concerns.

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Speaker 3: Tell me a little bit about some of the most

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Speaker 3: common skin issues that you'll see on the daily.

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Speaker 2: Lots of sun damage and skin cancers. My practice as

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Speaker 2: a medical and cosmetic dermatologist, so lots of sun damage,

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Speaker 2: skin cancers, and then I spent a lot of my

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Speaker 2: day treating acne throughout the ages from the teens through too,

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Speaker 2: particularly mature women. I see a lot of roseatia, psoriasis,

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Speaker 2: atopic dermatitis or exma, and then a few rare, weird

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Speaker 2: and wonderful things, and then lots of malasma. Obviously in

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Speaker 2: our beautiful sunny country, a lot of malasma.

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Speaker 3: So obviously there's such a diverse range of ways to

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Speaker 3: treat all of those common skin concerns. But if you

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Speaker 3: were to pick one, for example, acne, how would you

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Speaker 3: go about treating that.

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Speaker 2: We're actually really lucky these days, we've got so many options.

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Speaker 2: One of the really commonly used options would be peels,

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Speaker 2: So look a salicylic acid or a retinoid based peel,

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Speaker 2: as well as often some gentle extractions with our expert

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Speaker 2: nurses and dermal therapists who are great much better than

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Speaker 2: us are doing the extractions. Then we also use some

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Speaker 2: light based treatments, particularly for inflammatory acne rather than for

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Speaker 2: the commodones or block pores. So the light based treatments

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Speaker 2: are things like blue light PDT or photodynamic therapy, and

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Speaker 2: that has anti inflammatory benefits as well as decreasing the

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Speaker 2: levels of carini Bacterium acnes, which is the bacterium which

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Speaker 2: lives in the oil gland and tends to contribute to

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Speaker 2: inflammation in acne. And more recently, a number of practices,

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Speaker 2: including ours, have been lucky enough to have an overclear laser.

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Speaker 2: So that's a new laser treatment which is sort of

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Speaker 2: just now launching in Australia. It's a unique wavelength which

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Speaker 2: just targets oil glands. It leaves everything else in the

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Speaker 2: skin alone. It's actually pretty well tolerated. I mean, like

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Speaker 2: any laser treatment, it's not relaxing, but our patients so

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Speaker 2: far have been tolerating it really well. It's a great

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Speaker 2: option for patients who probably need ISO treat to known

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Speaker 2: but would prefer not to take it. We can use

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Speaker 2: that in that patient group as well as patients with

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Speaker 2: more moderate acne. So many options.

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Speaker 3: I've heard about the aviclear device. I know that's a

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Speaker 3: recent one, but it is amazing how many different options

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Speaker 3: and solutions there are for all different types of acne

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Speaker 3: and all different skin types. Let's get into the good stuff,

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Speaker 3: but walk me through your routine, starting off with morning.

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Speaker 2: I mean, what is your self caret to you give

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Speaker 2: us the dirty digit in the morning. I always think

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Speaker 2: about sort of protection and repair in terms of what

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Speaker 2: I'd like to do for my face, so I don't

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Speaker 2: tend to cleanse in the morning. I usually just splash

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Speaker 2: water on my face unless I've done something really crazy

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Speaker 2: in terms of skincare at night, which is pretty rare

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Speaker 2: these days. I'll splash water on my face. I use

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Speaker 2: Bespoke Skin Technologies Dream Cream, and I use that because

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Speaker 2: it contains seven antioxidants as well as three D and

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Speaker 2: A repair enzymes and hyaluronic acid as well as bercucio.

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Speaker 2: So that's a one step application to do all my

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Speaker 2: antioxidant protection and repair of DNA damage from UV radiation, pollution, etc.

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Speaker 2: And then I just apply sunscreen. So at the moment,

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Speaker 2: I'm absolutely loving every day sunscreens We're so blessed, aren't

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Speaker 2: we in Australia to have so many amazing local sunscreen options.

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Speaker 2: But in particular, I'm loving the Airy Day Golden Glows sunscreen.

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Speaker 2: It's just the most beautiful, hydrating texture and obviously evens

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Speaker 2: out your skin tone with that gorgeous kind of golden machine.

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Speaker 2: And then make up over that if I'm going to

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Speaker 2: wear makeup that day. So pretty simple, pretty basic dream

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Speaker 2: cream and then sunscreen. That's me good to go.

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Speaker 3: You were serious when you said super simple. We love

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Speaker 3: super simple.

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Speaker 1: Though.

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Speaker 3: I would love to look at your night routine.

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Speaker 2: I really try and make sure I double cleans every night.

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Speaker 2: Am one of the believers of double cleansing. I think

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Speaker 2: it's so important to remove all the debris of the

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Speaker 2: day so you know, our own oil or sea bom, sunscreen, makeup, sweat,

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Speaker 2: as well as pollution to try and prevent inflammating and

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Speaker 2: I'd like to do that gently without disrupting the skin barrier.

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Speaker 2: So I tend to use gentle cleanses both for myself

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Speaker 2: and I also always recommend them for my patients. I

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Speaker 2: think foaming cleansers just disrupt the skin barrier cause irritation,

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Speaker 2: so I usually will start out with an oil cleanser

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Speaker 2: I really enjoy at the moment, the Bioderma's Sensor Bio

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Speaker 2: my Cellar cleansing oil. It's non fragrance but is amazing

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Speaker 2: to remove all your makeup, et cetera. And it even

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Speaker 2: gets rid of waterproof a scara, which I tend to wear,

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Speaker 2: so that's fantastic and really gentle. And I follow that

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Speaker 2: up with another bespoke product, the Radiance Reset Cleanser, and

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Speaker 2: that's a really gentle, milky cleanser which does gently exfoliate

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Speaker 2: because it contains lime perl. But I'll sometimes use other

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Speaker 2: cleansing options. I always think it's totally unnecessary to use

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Speaker 2: something expensive that's not a leve On product, So I

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Speaker 2: do have a couple of really affordable cleanses that I

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Speaker 2: really like. So there's the Seto Fiel Gentle cleanser, which

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Speaker 2: I think we all know and love, as well as

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Speaker 2: the Sera ve hydrating cleanser. And sometimes I'll just apply

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Speaker 2: a layer of one of those cleansers, wipe them off

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Speaker 2: with a cotton pad, and then do a second layer

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Speaker 2: of that to cleanse and then rinse off, and then

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Speaker 2: I do another one to two steps, So two to

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Speaker 2: three nights a week I use a Spokes Luminosity serum,

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Speaker 2: which is a gentle exfoliator and helps deal with my

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Speaker 2: particular concerns, which are a bit of sun damage as

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Speaker 2: well as the occasional breakout and definitely fine lines. And

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Speaker 2: then every night I applied the Dream Cream as well

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Speaker 2: for all that protection and repair, and if my skin's

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Speaker 2: particularly dry, I really like to add in just something

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Speaker 2: simple but really hydrating. And my favorite, for as long

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Speaker 2: as I can remember now is the Serah, a skin

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Speaker 2: renewing night cream and again super affordable. It contains lots

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Speaker 2: of seramides and peptides, so it's just gorgeous to put

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Speaker 2: on the skin.

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Speaker 3: It's such a lovely moist driver. You had mentioned fragrance.

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Speaker 3: We had a scalp expert on the show who was

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Speaker 3: telling us about some fragrances in haircare that can lead

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Speaker 3: to balding. Is it bad with phase products too?

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Speaker 2: As a dermatologist, I do agree. I think fragrance is

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Speaker 2: a bit of a villain. As a female and a consumer,

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Speaker 2: I can appreciate that fragrance does add to a really

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Speaker 2: beautiful sensorial experience when you're applying your skincare, But I

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Speaker 2: see so many women with a legit contact dermatitis from

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Speaker 2: fragrance in essential oils or other standard skincare that they

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Speaker 2: put on their face. So look, I think, if you're

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Speaker 2: using fragrance products and you love them and they agree

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Speaker 2: with your skin, there's no reason to stop. But I

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Speaker 2: formulate without fragrance for the same reasons that you've sort

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Speaker 2: of iterrated in the haircare, and I choose to avoid

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Speaker 2: fragrance on my own face because I sort of feel

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Speaker 2: I'd rather be able to get the goodness from lots

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Speaker 2: of actives. I spray my fragrance some one elsewhere.

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Speaker 3: What else you have on your regular skincare list.

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Speaker 2: I'm a little bit prone to the odd breakout these days,

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Speaker 2: so one of my real skincare hacks is to make

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Speaker 2: sure I've got some spot treatments always on hand. There

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Speaker 2: are three over the count spot treatments that I love

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Speaker 2: for acne, and to be honest, I use them a

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Speaker 2: bit interchangeably. The first is the TBH acne hack spot treatment,

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Speaker 2: which is actually really gentle but very effective. I also

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Speaker 2: like the Bioderma cbium carato plus spot treatment, and then

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Speaker 2: the sort of rolls Royce. The sort of indulgence spot treatment,

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Speaker 2: which is actually also very good as a once a

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Speaker 2: week peer if you want to use it on your

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Speaker 2: whole face is my very good friend and colleague, doctor

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Speaker 2: Natasha Cook. She has a cosmeceutical range and her concentrated

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Speaker 2: spot destroyer is fantastic if you've got a really pesky

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Speaker 2: undergrounder that is going to rear its head right when

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Speaker 2: you don't need it. So those three are sort of regulars.

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Speaker 3: I think one of the biggest things that I've always

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Speaker 3: maybe it's a misconception that you should always use like

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Speaker 3: a spot cream over your higher face and not just

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Speaker 3: spot treat pemples. Is that right or what do you do?

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Speaker 2: Well, you're quite right. We have to think about field

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Speaker 2: treatments for acne and then spot treatments. So the one

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Speaker 2: thing that people often do wrong is they'll use their

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Speaker 2: retinoid or their AHA just on the spots, and that's

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Speaker 2: of course not how they work, because you want to

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Speaker 2: use your retinoid, whether it be prescription or over the counter,

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Speaker 2: on the whole face, as you said, And that's because

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Speaker 2: we want those products to unblock the pause and prevent

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Speaker 2: you pause from getting blocked. So those are the products

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Speaker 2: you want to use on your whole face. I always

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Speaker 2: suggest to my patients, then you want to bring in

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Speaker 2: the put out the fire spot treatments. When you can

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Speaker 2: feel that inflammation building, you know those undergrounds, those sore ones,

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Speaker 2: you can feel them coming up before you see them.

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Speaker 2: You can use a topical anti inflammatory on those. So

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Speaker 2: they're just for the affected areas, because some of them

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Speaker 2: can be quite drying. So if you put those on

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Speaker 2: the whole face as well as your retinoids, then that's

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Speaker 2: when people get into trouble with redness and peeling.

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Speaker 3: I want to ask you a question also about cleansing,

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Speaker 3: because you mentioned foaming cleanses strip the skin. So is

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Speaker 3: there any skin type that would actually benefit from foaming

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Speaker 3: cleansers or should everyone just use a creamy or oily cleander.

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Speaker 2: The reason why foaming cleansers do strip the skin barrier

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Speaker 2: is because the ingredients and a cleanser that help them

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Speaker 2: to foam are called surfactants, and they tend to be

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Speaker 2: very irritating on the skin, and particularly if you're using

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Speaker 2: them daily or twice daily. The problem is they're not

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Speaker 2: specific just for where we want them to work. Obviously,

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Speaker 2: we want them to work just on the pores, but

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Speaker 2: they also work on all the surrounding skin which doesn't

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Speaker 2: need that sort of deep clean. Patients with incredible oily

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Speaker 2: skin can tolerate a foaming cleanser, but I have to

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Speaker 2: say that is quite rare. Most patients have a little

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Speaker 2: bit of combination skin, and even if they've got very

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Speaker 2: very severe acne, they don't need to be using a

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Speaker 2: foaming cleanser. And if they've got very severe acne, they're

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Speaker 2: going to end up on ice treat and owen which

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Speaker 2: drives them at as well, so they especially don't need

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Speaker 2: foaming cleansers, milky or gel cleansers. It's actually very hard

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Speaker 2: to convince people with acne often that they can just

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Speaker 2: use a gentle look gel cleanser. The thing to sort

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Speaker 2: of get around that is to say that the job

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Speaker 2: of your cleanser is to remove the debris of the day,

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Speaker 2: it's not the job of that to cure your acne

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Speaker 2: as well. Nothing happens quickly, and it's always a whole package,

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Speaker 2: you know, a whole menu of treatments or products that

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Speaker 2: you're going to use to get it better. There's never

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Speaker 2: just one thing on its own that's going to fix it.

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Speaker 3: I feel like you've just collectively everyone's mind.

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Speaker 1: Head.

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Speaker 3: You've been one of the greatest discoveries of all time

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Speaker 3: or a mess never again. Never. What is that skincare

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Speaker 3: technique or ingredient that you can't live without and one

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Speaker 3: you don't like.

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Speaker 2: I can't live without bercuccio because that does everything that

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Speaker 2: a retinoid does, but is gentler. Particularly in my late forties,

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Speaker 2: I think that's one thing that has so much to offer.

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Speaker 2: So it has antioxidant or protective properties, builds collagen, which

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Speaker 2: I certainly need help with, and it also combats pigment

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Speaker 2: and sort of textural sun damage changes, which are a

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Speaker 2: big thing for me. This is also going to blow

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Speaker 2: over one's mind, by the way. But the ingredient that

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Speaker 2: I personally do not like and I do not formulate with,

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Speaker 2: as vitamin C.

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Speaker 3: Why tell me more? You can't just drop that bomb.

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Speaker 2: And then, because I spend so much of my week

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Speaker 2: as appracticing dermatologist seeing women who've come in with periorificial

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Speaker 2: dermatitis or irritant contact dermatitis from using vitamin C. Look

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Speaker 2: if people are using C and they like it and

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Speaker 2: it agrees with fantastic no reason to change, but it's

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Speaker 2: just such a common problem. It's really unstable in preparation

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Speaker 2: and it does tend to be irritating on the skin.

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Speaker 2: Is nothing that vitamin C does that niacinemite and est

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Speaker 2: xanthin don't do. So st x anthon does everything that

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Speaker 2: vitamin C does, whilst not being irritating. It helps with pigmentation.

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Speaker 2: It's a very very powerful antioxidantes. To xanthin is enormously

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Speaker 2: more powerful as an antioxidant than vitamin See.

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Speaker 3: We love a spicy opinion here at Beauty and that

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Speaker 3: is probably one of the spiciest we've had since hyaluronic

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Speaker 3: acid cancelation a few weeks back. Thank you so much

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Speaker 3: dotor Ama for joining us on the show today and

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Speaker 3: having a chat. As always, your such a wealth of

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Speaker 3: knowledge and I know I always learned so much chatting

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Speaker 3: to you, and I'm sure our audience have picked up

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Speaker 3: some solid advice from you too.

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Speaker 2: Thank you very much for having me. It's great fund

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Speaker 2: as always, If.

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Speaker 3: You want more product recommendations from the You Beauty team,

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Speaker 3: sign up for our free newsletter via the link in

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Speaker 3: our show notes. Tune in tomorrow for Beauty Besties, where

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Speaker 3: Lucy and Key answer all your beauty questions. I'll see

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Speaker 3: you guys again next Tuesday for another skincare deep dive.

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Speaker 3: See ya,