1 00:00:08,234 --> 00:00:10,914 Speaker 1: You're listening to i'mm with mea podcast. 2 00:00:15,434 --> 00:00:18,114 Speaker 2: Makeup is my therapy, I'm in love. 3 00:00:18,154 --> 00:00:21,074 Speaker 1: I'm obsessed and I don't even feel guilty about it. 4 00:00:24,594 --> 00:00:27,794 Speaker 2: Hello and welcome to you, beauty. I'm Kellen mccaren and 5 00:00:27,874 --> 00:00:32,513 Speaker 2: this is the formula. Now winter has officially started, you 6 00:00:32,634 --> 00:00:36,754 Speaker 2: probably started seeing winter skin switches, articles and content on 7 00:00:36,793 --> 00:00:39,194 Speaker 2: your feed. But do you actually need to make any 8 00:00:39,354 --> 00:00:41,394 Speaker 2: changes to your routine in winter or is it just 9 00:00:41,434 --> 00:00:44,153 Speaker 2: a ploy to get you to buy more products? Maybe 10 00:00:44,153 --> 00:00:46,034 Speaker 2: a little bit of columny, maybe a little bit of 11 00:00:46,034 --> 00:00:50,873 Speaker 2: column be dermatologist Doctor Natasha Cook is back to separate 12 00:00:51,034 --> 00:00:54,034 Speaker 2: fact from fad, from what actually happens to the skin 13 00:00:54,074 --> 00:00:56,633 Speaker 2: in winter and if you should be making changes to 14 00:00:56,674 --> 00:01:00,834 Speaker 2: your routine and why. As always, this is an educational 15 00:01:00,914 --> 00:01:05,194 Speaker 2: chat and it's not intended to replace professional medical advice. 16 00:01:05,514 --> 00:01:10,194 Speaker 2: We always recommend consulting a professional for personalized advice tailored 17 00:01:10,354 --> 00:01:13,954 Speaker 2: to your individual needs, especially when trying new products or 18 00:01:13,994 --> 00:01:16,674 Speaker 2: looking into skin treatments. All right, let's get into it 19 00:01:16,714 --> 00:01:18,114 Speaker 2: with doctor Natasha Cook. 20 00:01:18,514 --> 00:01:24,874 Speaker 1: You are such beautiful skin, but how Let's start with 21 00:01:24,914 --> 00:01:25,634 Speaker 1: the basics. 22 00:01:25,754 --> 00:01:29,474 Speaker 2: How does winter weather actually impact the skin and why 23 00:01:29,914 --> 00:01:31,274 Speaker 2: I'm often believer like that. 24 00:01:31,154 --> 00:01:34,634 Speaker 3: We shouldn't piggyback people into skin types per se, because 25 00:01:34,674 --> 00:01:38,394 Speaker 3: our skin type is constantly changing with our environment. For example, 26 00:01:38,434 --> 00:01:40,874 Speaker 3: if when the snowy mountains in winter where we've got 27 00:01:41,034 --> 00:01:44,074 Speaker 3: low humidity, we'll draw most through out of the skin 28 00:01:44,114 --> 00:01:46,874 Speaker 3: and our skin type becomes drier. If we're hanging out 29 00:01:46,914 --> 00:01:49,394 Speaker 3: in Singapore and it's highly humidity and there's more moisture 30 00:01:49,394 --> 00:01:51,714 Speaker 3: in the environment, which then feeds back into the skin, 31 00:01:52,074 --> 00:01:54,274 Speaker 3: we're going to feel like we're more oily, more moist 32 00:01:54,314 --> 00:01:56,954 Speaker 3: and we need less moisturizers. So you need adaptive skin 33 00:01:57,034 --> 00:01:59,434 Speaker 3: care right that can literally carver you from any environment 34 00:01:59,994 --> 00:02:02,154 Speaker 3: and anywhere you're traveling to and depending on what the 35 00:02:02,154 --> 00:02:06,034 Speaker 3: weather's doing. So winter is an absolute deal breaker in 36 00:02:06,114 --> 00:02:10,034 Speaker 3: affecting your skin, and your skin health needs will change 37 00:02:10,234 --> 00:02:13,354 Speaker 3: when you're in drier, colder environments and seasons. 38 00:02:13,554 --> 00:02:15,354 Speaker 1: And it's the same for everyone, Like there's no way 39 00:02:15,354 --> 00:02:16,633 Speaker 1: everyone yeah, and it's. 40 00:02:16,514 --> 00:02:18,914 Speaker 3: You're super super super deeper oily, then maybe you just 41 00:02:18,954 --> 00:02:20,914 Speaker 3: get away with just not needing much. 42 00:02:20,954 --> 00:02:24,154 Speaker 1: But you know, there's not many people that are that oily. 43 00:02:24,434 --> 00:02:27,074 Speaker 3: No, no, And so people can actually get skin conditions 44 00:02:27,074 --> 00:02:28,954 Speaker 3: in winter that they don't get in summer. It's all 45 00:02:28,994 --> 00:02:31,754 Speaker 3: about not having enough moisturizer in the skin, not therefore 46 00:02:31,754 --> 00:02:34,354 Speaker 3: providing a strong and protected barrier. If you get dried 47 00:02:34,354 --> 00:02:36,514 Speaker 3: out skin, you get barried ys function. If your barrier 48 00:02:36,594 --> 00:02:39,474 Speaker 3: is not really fortified and hydrated and like bricks and 49 00:02:39,554 --> 00:02:41,874 Speaker 3: wall with a fresh print job on it, and if 50 00:02:41,914 --> 00:02:43,714 Speaker 3: the paint job is cracking and coming off because the 51 00:02:43,754 --> 00:02:47,353 Speaker 3: dryness and the barrier is microscopically broken, anything with its fabrics, 52 00:02:47,874 --> 00:02:52,234 Speaker 3: water soaps, you know, perspiration start getting in to the skin, 53 00:02:52,354 --> 00:02:55,514 Speaker 3: creates inflammation, gets itchy, then we get rash, and then 54 00:02:55,514 --> 00:02:57,594 Speaker 3: the whole snowball effect kicks. 55 00:02:57,434 --> 00:03:00,114 Speaker 2: In and people are probably using like really harsh actives 56 00:03:00,154 --> 00:03:01,674 Speaker 2: and that's just making it worse. 57 00:03:01,874 --> 00:03:03,994 Speaker 3: And then sometimes if your skin gets to that point 58 00:03:03,994 --> 00:03:06,034 Speaker 3: and it feels sensitive, it feels dry, it feels freaky, 59 00:03:06,114 --> 00:03:10,034 Speaker 3: you back off gentle cleansing, lots of moisturizing, replenish the barrier, 60 00:03:10,194 --> 00:03:11,794 Speaker 3: then slowly reintroduce your actives. 61 00:03:11,794 --> 00:03:15,594 Speaker 2: In what's the wildest myth you've heard about winter skin 62 00:03:15,874 --> 00:03:19,954 Speaker 2: or something you hear every year in winter that you're like, oh, 63 00:03:19,994 --> 00:03:20,914 Speaker 2: for goodness sake. 64 00:03:21,114 --> 00:03:23,914 Speaker 1: It's just not true. Winter skin, winter skin, winter skin. 65 00:03:24,674 --> 00:03:27,554 Speaker 3: This is hard because I think the main thing is 66 00:03:27,674 --> 00:03:31,314 Speaker 3: people just they just don't think they need moisturizer. It's 67 00:03:31,434 --> 00:03:34,474 Speaker 3: like or sunscreen. Winter, Yes, hot, it's a huge one. 68 00:03:34,554 --> 00:03:36,114 Speaker 3: Actually it's like I'm fine. 69 00:03:36,154 --> 00:03:36,394 Speaker 1: Well. 70 00:03:36,434 --> 00:03:39,634 Speaker 3: In fact, winter can be the worst time to get 71 00:03:39,634 --> 00:03:42,434 Speaker 3: exposure from sun because you don't have the bio feedback 72 00:03:42,474 --> 00:03:45,874 Speaker 3: mechanism of getting hot or feeling burnt. You think you're fine, 73 00:03:46,194 --> 00:03:48,794 Speaker 3: which means you stay out longer, which means you're getting 74 00:03:48,874 --> 00:03:52,354 Speaker 3: more cumulative UV and environment damage, which means it can 75 00:03:52,394 --> 00:03:55,074 Speaker 3: be worse for you. I getting a full sense of security, 76 00:03:55,714 --> 00:03:57,954 Speaker 3: so that belief that you don't need a spear from 77 00:03:57,994 --> 00:04:00,714 Speaker 3: cloudy days and actually you can get more penetration of 78 00:04:00,794 --> 00:04:01,914 Speaker 3: UV raised. 79 00:04:01,874 --> 00:04:03,914 Speaker 1: With cloud cover then without the cover. 80 00:04:04,074 --> 00:04:07,114 Speaker 2: Worst burns of my teenage years was on the beach 81 00:04:07,154 --> 00:04:07,914 Speaker 2: on a cloudy day. 82 00:04:07,954 --> 00:04:10,354 Speaker 3: There you go because normally if you get hot you 83 00:04:10,434 --> 00:04:12,634 Speaker 3: seek shade right because and then if your skins don't 84 00:04:12,674 --> 00:04:14,914 Speaker 3: feel the heat, you then go into protect it. 85 00:04:14,914 --> 00:04:17,153 Speaker 1: It's like really really really really pale, pale. 86 00:04:17,154 --> 00:04:20,354 Speaker 3: People like the beautiful the colquipments of the world have 87 00:04:20,394 --> 00:04:22,874 Speaker 3: been super sensible because if they go out in the sun, 88 00:04:22,954 --> 00:04:25,193 Speaker 3: they burn really quickly, so they just stay out at 89 00:04:25,234 --> 00:04:26,033 Speaker 3: all costs. 90 00:04:25,753 --> 00:04:27,753 Speaker 1: And then they have fantastic skin for longer. 91 00:04:28,034 --> 00:04:32,153 Speaker 2: Take us through an ingredient audit that ubs can do 92 00:04:32,193 --> 00:04:34,674 Speaker 2: at home to see if their routine is set up 93 00:04:34,714 --> 00:04:38,433 Speaker 2: to support their skin during winter, because often the products 94 00:04:38,433 --> 00:04:40,154 Speaker 2: you're already using have what you need. 95 00:04:40,674 --> 00:04:43,793 Speaker 3: Right, Yes, I guess the mos thing in winter skin 96 00:04:43,953 --> 00:04:47,354 Speaker 3: is like again, don't avoid the harsh cleansing right and 97 00:04:47,393 --> 00:04:50,433 Speaker 3: particularly overwashing in the shower, and then you might moisturize 98 00:04:50,433 --> 00:04:52,553 Speaker 3: in someone. Don't forget the body skin like the body 99 00:04:52,633 --> 00:04:54,993 Speaker 3: is the new face. Like we realize we probably forget 100 00:04:55,034 --> 00:04:58,433 Speaker 3: about looking up to body. It also needs hydrating similar 101 00:04:58,513 --> 00:04:59,873 Speaker 3: to what you on the face, because we do know 102 00:04:59,914 --> 00:05:03,233 Speaker 3: there are studies that have shown regular use of moisturizers 103 00:05:03,274 --> 00:05:06,794 Speaker 3: that help the barrier on the body, reduce absorption of 104 00:05:07,113 --> 00:05:11,273 Speaker 3: animation and pollution, etc. So our internal inflammatory mediators, which 105 00:05:11,313 --> 00:05:12,834 Speaker 3: is inter lucin six, is one of that you can 106 00:05:12,873 --> 00:05:16,473 Speaker 3: measure and sereactive protein go down when we moisturize our 107 00:05:16,513 --> 00:05:18,674 Speaker 3: body skin, so it's important to look after it and 108 00:05:18,794 --> 00:05:22,193 Speaker 3: especially in winter, not using anything foamy and soapy in 109 00:05:22,234 --> 00:05:24,593 Speaker 3: the shower, which obviously we're trained to do because I 110 00:05:24,594 --> 00:05:27,474 Speaker 3: think we think we're really dirty, So you know there's 111 00:05:27,474 --> 00:05:32,313 Speaker 3: some great sort of like low sefactant oil based body washes. 112 00:05:32,354 --> 00:05:35,594 Speaker 3: You can get pharmacya levels that also have some things 113 00:05:35,674 --> 00:05:39,073 Speaker 3: like oatmeal which is natural anti inflammatory in it. Then 114 00:05:39,113 --> 00:05:41,234 Speaker 3: as soon as you get out and when the skin's damp, 115 00:05:41,433 --> 00:05:45,394 Speaker 3: lock that moisture in and whack body moisturizer over the top. 116 00:05:45,953 --> 00:05:48,594 Speaker 3: Face is the same thing. Foams are a no, scrubs 117 00:05:48,594 --> 00:05:50,513 Speaker 3: are a no. And you might have to convert to 118 00:05:50,553 --> 00:05:52,953 Speaker 3: something a little bit heavier that you normally wouldn't use 119 00:05:53,873 --> 00:05:57,033 Speaker 3: in the more humid, warmer months of the year. What 120 00:05:57,154 --> 00:05:58,834 Speaker 3: I have, I just make two because I say these 121 00:05:58,873 --> 00:06:01,273 Speaker 3: two will take you anywhere through all seasons and reasons 122 00:06:01,274 --> 00:06:03,274 Speaker 3: and around the world. And I say you might want 123 00:06:03,313 --> 00:06:05,794 Speaker 3: to double moisturize in the mornings, so you might put 124 00:06:05,794 --> 00:06:07,393 Speaker 3: your normal light one on it you're doing some, but 125 00:06:07,393 --> 00:06:09,033 Speaker 3: then you might put your night cream over and ringing 126 00:06:09,113 --> 00:06:12,393 Speaker 3: over the top. That simple methodology can be an absolute 127 00:06:12,393 --> 00:06:15,513 Speaker 3: game changer without necessarily have to going out and buy 128 00:06:15,674 --> 00:06:16,433 Speaker 3: another product. 129 00:06:17,274 --> 00:06:19,513 Speaker 2: What about your body skin Like, I'm really good at 130 00:06:19,513 --> 00:06:22,274 Speaker 2: moisturizing at night after my shower, but not so good 131 00:06:22,313 --> 00:06:25,473 Speaker 2: I don't often remember to do it in the morning. Yes, 132 00:06:25,513 --> 00:06:28,474 Speaker 2: but kind of by your logic, then we should because 133 00:06:28,474 --> 00:06:30,714 Speaker 2: you're about to go out into the elements. 134 00:06:30,714 --> 00:06:31,354 Speaker 1: It's really funny. 135 00:06:31,354 --> 00:06:34,073 Speaker 3: I had a lovely patient the other day, and I 136 00:06:34,073 --> 00:06:36,394 Speaker 3: mean she's in the early fifties and her body skin 137 00:06:36,433 --> 00:06:36,674 Speaker 3: was mac. 138 00:06:36,794 --> 00:06:37,914 Speaker 1: I said, oh my god, this is great. 139 00:06:37,953 --> 00:06:39,834 Speaker 3: She said yeah, because I bought your lotion and you 140 00:06:39,873 --> 00:06:42,433 Speaker 3: said hydrated skins always better. Now I most urize every day, 141 00:06:42,433 --> 00:06:43,874 Speaker 3: and I said, yeah, it really does work, doesn't it. 142 00:06:43,914 --> 00:06:47,713 Speaker 3: She's totally so for skin preservation and skin healthy, simple 143 00:06:47,834 --> 00:06:50,913 Speaker 3: methodologies that we use for our face we should apply 144 00:06:51,034 --> 00:06:52,873 Speaker 3: to our body. But it's like if we're not trained 145 00:06:52,873 --> 00:06:54,674 Speaker 3: and we're not organized. So that's why it's really good 146 00:06:54,714 --> 00:06:56,993 Speaker 3: just to have your counter in your bathroom center so 147 00:06:57,034 --> 00:06:59,433 Speaker 3: you can literally go pump ump on, we go out 148 00:06:59,433 --> 00:07:02,873 Speaker 3: the door, and it becomes habit and routine, because consistency 149 00:07:03,474 --> 00:07:06,794 Speaker 3: and repetition is key. Yeah, more than like you brush 150 00:07:06,834 --> 00:07:09,914 Speaker 3: your tea totally. Consistency is more important than complexity. 151 00:07:10,554 --> 00:07:13,034 Speaker 2: Let's say a client comes in and they want to 152 00:07:13,074 --> 00:07:15,594 Speaker 2: know if they should be making changes to their routine 153 00:07:15,594 --> 00:07:18,673 Speaker 2: for winter. What would you tell them to not bother 154 00:07:18,754 --> 00:07:22,033 Speaker 2: with and to bother with so it could be lifestyle 155 00:07:22,154 --> 00:07:25,154 Speaker 2: factors make up anything else. 156 00:07:25,274 --> 00:07:25,874 Speaker 1: Yes, Okay. 157 00:07:25,953 --> 00:07:29,194 Speaker 3: So a common snow that presents in winter is sensitivity, 158 00:07:29,194 --> 00:07:32,394 Speaker 3: particularly around the eyes, right because the eyelid skin is 159 00:07:32,714 --> 00:07:35,314 Speaker 3: thinner and it is more sensitive, so it will tend 160 00:07:35,354 --> 00:07:37,794 Speaker 3: to show the signs of the harshness of the winter 161 00:07:37,914 --> 00:07:41,314 Speaker 3: environment and the dryness early and also kind of lip areas. 162 00:07:41,354 --> 00:07:43,473 Speaker 3: So often I'll compound up something that's got a lot 163 00:07:43,514 --> 00:07:47,233 Speaker 3: of glisering in it and it's more of an exclusive. 164 00:07:46,674 --> 00:07:48,953 Speaker 1: Style oatment based moisturizer. 165 00:07:49,074 --> 00:07:51,914 Speaker 3: Get compounded and I'll say add this in morning night 166 00:07:51,953 --> 00:07:54,954 Speaker 3: to those sensitive areas within your normal routine. They usually 167 00:07:54,994 --> 00:07:57,153 Speaker 3: get better pretty quickly, and I tell them to sustain 168 00:07:57,194 --> 00:07:57,674 Speaker 3: that in winter. 169 00:07:57,914 --> 00:07:58,874 Speaker 1: That's a nice little tip. 170 00:07:59,154 --> 00:08:02,273 Speaker 3: Secondly, if that's super inflamed, I will add a short 171 00:08:02,354 --> 00:08:07,033 Speaker 3: term anti inflammatory steroid oitment to basically reduce the inflammation, 172 00:08:07,274 --> 00:08:10,034 Speaker 3: but also use the more INTENSI even rich glitterin and 173 00:08:10,114 --> 00:08:14,114 Speaker 3: multifying ointment based product together to switch off the inflammation 174 00:08:14,393 --> 00:08:17,953 Speaker 3: while the glitterin and mulsifying ointment product is drawing the 175 00:08:17,994 --> 00:08:20,954 Speaker 3: barrier function. Then once the inflammation's gone the barrier's back, 176 00:08:20,994 --> 00:08:23,194 Speaker 3: I drop out the steroid ointment, which usually happens within 177 00:08:23,194 --> 00:08:25,794 Speaker 3: one to two weeks. Sometimes people see beneficial within a 178 00:08:25,834 --> 00:08:27,874 Speaker 3: two day. I'm like, do it for released a week. 179 00:08:27,914 --> 00:08:30,074 Speaker 3: I want your skin to be perfect remission. I want 180 00:08:30,074 --> 00:08:32,754 Speaker 3: that barrier toy back to its natural skin health. Then 181 00:08:32,794 --> 00:08:35,434 Speaker 3: we can start reintroducing some of the other things like 182 00:08:35,474 --> 00:08:37,554 Speaker 3: your make ups, new things you all the using. So 183 00:08:37,834 --> 00:08:39,794 Speaker 3: it's like having a break and a breather to bring 184 00:08:39,834 --> 00:08:42,034 Speaker 3: back the skin health. Because if we think we're there 185 00:08:42,074 --> 00:08:44,074 Speaker 3: and we're not, we then end up being on this 186 00:08:44,234 --> 00:08:47,674 Speaker 3: vicious circle of reflaring the skin. So doing a really 187 00:08:47,874 --> 00:08:52,834 Speaker 3: simple concentrated restorative remission base for one to two weeks 188 00:08:52,834 --> 00:08:55,114 Speaker 3: with those couple of tips, I can usually get the 189 00:08:55,154 --> 00:08:58,154 Speaker 3: skin back to total high functioning your normal skin. And 190 00:08:58,194 --> 00:09:00,354 Speaker 3: then I teach them how to look after their skin 191 00:09:00,394 --> 00:09:03,953 Speaker 3: moving forwards with the right moisturizing techniques to survive winter, but. 192 00:09:03,874 --> 00:09:05,314 Speaker 1: Then also to be able to sustain They make up 193 00:09:05,354 --> 00:09:06,474 Speaker 1: some things I like to wear. 194 00:09:07,274 --> 00:09:10,034 Speaker 2: Single winter, except last year when I discovered this new 195 00:09:10,074 --> 00:09:13,554 Speaker 2: lip product, But every single winter, generally without fail, at 196 00:09:13,594 --> 00:09:17,994 Speaker 2: some point my lip will split on both or one side. 197 00:09:17,874 --> 00:09:19,954 Speaker 1: Yes, and then in the corners yes. 198 00:09:19,754 --> 00:09:23,594 Speaker 2: And then it just consistently splits because you're constantly moving 199 00:09:23,634 --> 00:09:26,434 Speaker 2: your mouth and it is really really painful. 200 00:09:26,434 --> 00:09:29,154 Speaker 1: You can't really see. It's terrible, no, and it's really cold. 201 00:09:29,274 --> 00:09:32,954 Speaker 3: It's called angular colitis, so angular because it's the corner 202 00:09:33,034 --> 00:09:36,034 Speaker 3: is the mouth colitis inflammation of the lips, so inflammation 203 00:09:36,194 --> 00:09:38,154 Speaker 3: of the lip in the corners of the mouth, and 204 00:09:38,194 --> 00:09:40,234 Speaker 3: then what ends up happening saliva gets caught in there 205 00:09:40,274 --> 00:09:43,394 Speaker 3: than the mechanical and then it just accelerates. So really 206 00:09:43,394 --> 00:09:47,394 Speaker 3: good barrier restorative barms plus a minus. Sometimes then get 207 00:09:47,394 --> 00:09:51,114 Speaker 3: a little secondary bacterial infection, so a little topical antibody 208 00:09:51,194 --> 00:09:54,794 Speaker 3: ointment mixed maybe with an antiflammatory steroid ointment I'll use, 209 00:09:54,954 --> 00:09:57,194 Speaker 3: I fix it. And then they go on to maintain 210 00:09:57,234 --> 00:10:00,354 Speaker 3: it with a more enriched, thicker barrier repair ointment to 211 00:10:00,474 --> 00:10:02,034 Speaker 3: preserve and prevent it recurring. 212 00:10:02,394 --> 00:10:04,514 Speaker 1: That is a super common problem that we see a lot. 213 00:10:04,554 --> 00:10:07,234 Speaker 3: Oh yeah, and it is painful, it's annoying, and can 214 00:10:07,274 --> 00:10:10,354 Speaker 3: get secondary infected and if not looked after properly early, 215 00:10:10,994 --> 00:10:12,953 Speaker 3: and they're not maintained because you know, a lot of 216 00:10:12,994 --> 00:10:15,554 Speaker 3: people think, oh yeah, and I've seen some practitioners just 217 00:10:16,114 --> 00:10:19,234 Speaker 3: prescribe the antibodypointment or prescribe the steroid, but they're not 218 00:10:19,234 --> 00:10:22,914 Speaker 3: looking at the foundations of then the non prescriptive barrier 219 00:10:22,994 --> 00:10:26,794 Speaker 3: pair ointment that one fixes it, but then it keeps 220 00:10:26,834 --> 00:10:29,074 Speaker 3: the skin healthy so we don't get recurrence of the 221 00:10:29,074 --> 00:10:31,434 Speaker 3: problem again. And that's like what I always say to 222 00:10:31,674 --> 00:10:34,234 Speaker 3: my patients. I need to make you a recipe of life. 223 00:10:34,554 --> 00:10:36,194 Speaker 3: It's not just a prescription. But then we've got to 224 00:10:36,194 --> 00:10:37,794 Speaker 3: look at the foundations and then how we're going to 225 00:10:37,834 --> 00:10:40,274 Speaker 3: maintain so you do not get these problems again. 226 00:10:45,154 --> 00:10:49,674 Speaker 2: Generally speaking, are there any skin treatments that are optimal 227 00:10:49,754 --> 00:10:53,114 Speaker 2: to try during the winter months? As an example, I'm 228 00:10:53,194 --> 00:10:56,154 Speaker 2: thinking this winter, I want to get laser on my. 229 00:10:56,234 --> 00:10:58,314 Speaker 1: Chest to try to reduce amazing. 230 00:10:58,514 --> 00:11:00,594 Speaker 2: I know that last episode that we had you on 231 00:11:00,714 --> 00:11:03,674 Speaker 2: we were talking about once you've got pigmentar or malasma, 232 00:11:03,794 --> 00:11:05,874 Speaker 2: that's kind of it. I'm not sure if mine is 233 00:11:05,874 --> 00:11:07,594 Speaker 2: pigmentation or malasma, but I'm. 234 00:11:07,434 --> 00:11:11,234 Speaker 3: Hoping that I see chest skins fundamental sun inducee pigmentation yep. 235 00:11:11,394 --> 00:11:14,234 Speaker 3: So to be environmentally induced hormonal pigment on the chest 236 00:11:14,274 --> 00:11:16,953 Speaker 3: would be super rare, which is malasma. Malasma is a 237 00:11:16,994 --> 00:11:19,954 Speaker 3: tricky diagnosis. A lot of operators out there think they 238 00:11:19,994 --> 00:11:22,754 Speaker 3: can diagnose it. I mean, really, it's defined by biopsy 239 00:11:22,834 --> 00:11:26,074 Speaker 3: but clinical acumen because everyone thinks brown is all equal, 240 00:11:26,234 --> 00:11:28,154 Speaker 3: like it's not like not all skin is equal, and 241 00:11:28,194 --> 00:11:30,554 Speaker 3: also not all pigment is equal. And there's about four 242 00:11:30,594 --> 00:11:34,594 Speaker 3: to five different elements of different types of pigmented patterns 243 00:11:34,634 --> 00:11:37,953 Speaker 3: we can see and lesions including melanoma that you need 244 00:11:37,994 --> 00:11:40,434 Speaker 3: to be able to diagnose before you can match appropriate 245 00:11:40,594 --> 00:11:43,874 Speaker 3: pathology to the right technology. And sometimes it's a mix 246 00:11:43,914 --> 00:11:47,274 Speaker 3: of technologies to get pigment in different areas right. And 247 00:11:47,314 --> 00:11:49,594 Speaker 3: that's where I mean, I guess at the tertiary level 248 00:11:49,594 --> 00:11:51,714 Speaker 3: where we sit in now clinic as a dermatologist. It's 249 00:11:51,714 --> 00:11:55,634 Speaker 3: also experts also had all these training. We know what 250 00:11:55,954 --> 00:11:58,834 Speaker 3: things will be the optimal choice for the right patient 251 00:11:58,874 --> 00:12:01,714 Speaker 3: and their pathology, rather than you've got one or two machines. 252 00:12:01,754 --> 00:12:04,194 Speaker 3: It's a one size fit or approach. I think that's 253 00:12:04,194 --> 00:12:06,994 Speaker 3: where it can be tricky that patients and clients might 254 00:12:07,154 --> 00:12:10,234 Speaker 3: get the wrong advice into institutions and its people that 255 00:12:10,314 --> 00:12:13,994 Speaker 3: have different levels of education. So when it comes to 256 00:12:14,114 --> 00:12:16,914 Speaker 3: pigment and treatment in the winter, it's winter's a great 257 00:12:16,954 --> 00:12:18,794 Speaker 3: time when you've got low UV right, so you've got 258 00:12:18,794 --> 00:12:21,954 Speaker 3: low UV, the chance of the pigment getting activated and 259 00:12:21,994 --> 00:12:24,314 Speaker 3: your results lasting longer. Oh higher, right, we want our 260 00:12:24,354 --> 00:12:26,834 Speaker 3: skin looks better in winter when we're not outdoors in summer. 261 00:12:27,234 --> 00:12:28,953 Speaker 3: And you only need a couple of percentage of V 262 00:12:29,274 --> 00:12:31,953 Speaker 3: once you've already developed pigment to reactivate it. You need 263 00:12:31,954 --> 00:12:34,794 Speaker 3: a lot of chronic cumulative exposure to program it to 264 00:12:34,874 --> 00:12:37,514 Speaker 3: make pigment because babies and little kids don't have pigmentation. 265 00:12:38,074 --> 00:12:40,394 Speaker 3: Then once you've got it, those little melanocytes are now 266 00:12:40,434 --> 00:12:43,794 Speaker 3: planned and programmed that they will respond very rapidly to 267 00:12:43,914 --> 00:12:46,234 Speaker 3: little bits of V despite wearing a SPF, which I'm 268 00:12:46,274 --> 00:12:48,634 Speaker 3: a double SPF fan. If you really want to protect 269 00:12:48,914 --> 00:12:53,994 Speaker 3: and preserve issues with pigmentation, winter's amazing time low UV levels. 270 00:12:54,034 --> 00:12:56,274 Speaker 3: We all tend to hibernate in winter anyway, We're not 271 00:12:56,514 --> 00:12:59,514 Speaker 3: going to a shed and great for body because you're covered, right, 272 00:12:59,634 --> 00:13:05,154 Speaker 3: So yeah, treatments for skin rejuvenation, pigmentation face body everywhere. 273 00:13:05,194 --> 00:13:07,794 Speaker 3: Really Definitely, I'm more busier in the winter months of 274 00:13:07,794 --> 00:13:08,794 Speaker 3: the year that I am in the summer. 275 00:13:09,194 --> 00:13:11,314 Speaker 2: So you think that people, if they do want to 276 00:13:11,354 --> 00:13:13,234 Speaker 2: go in, they should probably just go speak to their 277 00:13:13,234 --> 00:13:15,874 Speaker 2: dermatologist to get the referral from your GP. 278 00:13:16,114 --> 00:13:19,194 Speaker 1: Go speak to someone, yes about what's right and get diagnosed. 279 00:13:19,234 --> 00:13:20,594 Speaker 1: I think that's a really important thing. 280 00:13:20,594 --> 00:13:24,074 Speaker 3: Rather than self diagnosing, yeah, or maybe being somebody who 281 00:13:24,194 --> 00:13:27,794 Speaker 3: doesn't have that clinical acumen or capacity. And they people 282 00:13:27,794 --> 00:13:29,914 Speaker 3: can get sold some treatments that actually wann't the right 283 00:13:29,954 --> 00:13:32,434 Speaker 3: fit for their problem, and then one or two things happen. 284 00:13:32,474 --> 00:13:34,194 Speaker 1: They either get a bad outcome or they get no 285 00:13:34,274 --> 00:13:35,874 Speaker 1: results because it was the wrong choice. 286 00:13:35,954 --> 00:13:39,874 Speaker 3: So making sure we match an understand pathology and get 287 00:13:39,874 --> 00:13:42,314 Speaker 3: the right technologies, and sometimes you need several technologies in 288 00:13:42,314 --> 00:13:44,114 Speaker 3: the one sitting, which is what we do, so we 289 00:13:44,194 --> 00:13:47,074 Speaker 3: get beautiful even results. And I can pick this machine 290 00:13:47,114 --> 00:13:50,474 Speaker 3: for the len tigos or the fixed sunspots of dellsians. 291 00:13:50,554 --> 00:13:52,994 Speaker 3: They might need like little device appeals them out. If 292 00:13:53,034 --> 00:13:56,074 Speaker 3: it's background blotchy pigment. I can use BBL broadband light 293 00:13:56,314 --> 00:13:59,234 Speaker 3: well is IPL styles if they've got increased vascula chre 294 00:13:59,274 --> 00:14:01,354 Speaker 3: because usually that will sit in the same areas because 295 00:14:01,434 --> 00:14:04,234 Speaker 3: vessels grow with UV exposure damage as well. I can 296 00:14:04,274 --> 00:14:07,034 Speaker 3: want vastcular so I can do a really comprehensive multiple 297 00:14:07,154 --> 00:14:09,634 Speaker 3: delity treatment to get beautiful even results in their skin. 298 00:14:16,514 --> 00:14:19,154 Speaker 1: I had to find the liner in my bag. What's 299 00:14:19,274 --> 00:14:26,874 Speaker 1: the what products do you personally use in your winter routine. 300 00:14:27,194 --> 00:14:30,754 Speaker 3: Well, I mean this is extremely subconscious bias, but I 301 00:14:30,874 --> 00:14:32,114 Speaker 3: use everything I make. 302 00:14:32,114 --> 00:14:35,194 Speaker 1: So that's okay. If you didn't, I know. 303 00:14:35,314 --> 00:14:38,474 Speaker 3: Well if I didn't, and if I couldn't, it is better. 304 00:14:38,514 --> 00:14:40,394 Speaker 3: I'd either go and make it or I would stop 305 00:14:40,394 --> 00:14:42,394 Speaker 3: making things I actually think are really good for the skin. 306 00:14:42,434 --> 00:14:44,994 Speaker 3: And I've spent twenty something years doing it. And I 307 00:14:45,074 --> 00:14:48,954 Speaker 3: was not just you know, studying medicine and then getting 308 00:14:48,994 --> 00:14:51,394 Speaker 3: on to germ, but I was a victim of the industry. 309 00:14:51,794 --> 00:14:54,314 Speaker 3: I did a termine Harvard University in neto chronology in 310 00:14:54,354 --> 00:14:57,394 Speaker 3: my early twenties, and of course back then skincare was 311 00:14:57,394 --> 00:14:59,194 Speaker 3: heaps cheaper and there was more stuff you get in 312 00:14:59,194 --> 00:15:02,354 Speaker 3: the US, and so I went to Sachs in Boston like, 313 00:15:02,434 --> 00:15:05,794 Speaker 3: oh yeah, I'm buying you know, this cleanser, this tona, 314 00:15:05,954 --> 00:15:07,114 Speaker 3: this neck cream, this iron cream. 315 00:15:07,114 --> 00:15:10,474 Speaker 1: I'm in twenty one, just seriously, and neck cream at 316 00:15:10,514 --> 00:15:12,674 Speaker 1: twenty one. Oh yeah, they and the ICRA and they 317 00:15:12,714 --> 00:15:13,234 Speaker 1: sold it all too. 318 00:15:13,314 --> 00:15:16,114 Speaker 3: I was like, okay, and it's cheapy here than in Australia, 319 00:15:16,194 --> 00:15:18,194 Speaker 3: and I guess once. Then a couple of years later, 320 00:15:18,234 --> 00:15:20,354 Speaker 3: when I got into the dermatology training scheme, and I 321 00:15:20,394 --> 00:15:24,634 Speaker 3: was reading Wolverton, which is an amazing dermatological farmer colleague detext. 322 00:15:24,754 --> 00:15:26,714 Speaker 1: I was obsessed because I loved the science behind it. 323 00:15:26,794 --> 00:15:29,114 Speaker 3: I'm like, wow, Like, you know, some of these other 324 00:15:29,154 --> 00:15:32,034 Speaker 3: brands have got these h Night serians for two ondred 325 00:15:32,034 --> 00:15:33,874 Speaker 3: something dollars, but it's got point one percent of the 326 00:15:33,874 --> 00:15:35,874 Speaker 3: fruit acids in it and you need five to ten. 327 00:15:36,394 --> 00:15:37,274 Speaker 1: We have a problem. 328 00:15:37,674 --> 00:15:39,474 Speaker 3: And then things that were like kind of had things 329 00:15:39,514 --> 00:15:42,874 Speaker 3: in concentrations that worked, were in these old school, felt 330 00:15:42,874 --> 00:15:46,994 Speaker 3: like perkins Pace style non aesthetic formulas that were. 331 00:15:46,954 --> 00:15:48,154 Speaker 1: Purely glycolic acid. 332 00:15:48,754 --> 00:15:50,634 Speaker 3: There are the better options, but they sort of work, 333 00:15:50,714 --> 00:15:52,754 Speaker 3: they could be irritating, and so I kind of saw 334 00:15:52,794 --> 00:15:56,034 Speaker 3: this thing like I am not just adopted becoming a derm. 335 00:15:56,354 --> 00:15:58,834 Speaker 3: I'm female. I like having healthy skin. I like things 336 00:15:58,834 --> 00:16:00,994 Speaker 3: that feel good. I don't want complicated, Like there's a 337 00:16:00,994 --> 00:16:02,874 Speaker 3: real gap in this market to make things that highly 338 00:16:02,874 --> 00:16:05,274 Speaker 3: affect you simple, easy to use, and feel good. 339 00:16:05,834 --> 00:16:06,914 Speaker 1: So that's what I did. 340 00:16:07,154 --> 00:16:09,314 Speaker 3: I started with three things and then slowly built over 341 00:16:09,354 --> 00:16:12,354 Speaker 3: the last twenty something years. So yeah, so my winter routine, 342 00:16:12,434 --> 00:16:14,114 Speaker 3: what I do do wrong? I still do my three 343 00:16:14,114 --> 00:16:16,634 Speaker 3: step AM, three step PM. I'll still do my treatment 344 00:16:16,754 --> 00:16:20,794 Speaker 3: HABHA treatment once a fortnight. However, I double hydrate in 345 00:16:20,794 --> 00:16:22,954 Speaker 3: the morning, so I use the lighter moisturizer, then I 346 00:16:22,954 --> 00:16:26,954 Speaker 3: put the hydration over the top, and then I use 347 00:16:27,074 --> 00:16:31,954 Speaker 3: my niceinamide with vitamin C morning and night, because you know, 348 00:16:32,074 --> 00:16:35,714 Speaker 3: nice cinamide is really good to enhance natural sermi production, 349 00:16:35,874 --> 00:16:39,754 Speaker 3: which is a great natural moisturizing factor to increase hydration 350 00:16:39,794 --> 00:16:41,874 Speaker 3: in the skin and strengthen the barrier. So when we've 351 00:16:41,914 --> 00:16:44,754 Speaker 3: got higher sensitivity and dryness, I double that up and 352 00:16:44,834 --> 00:16:47,914 Speaker 3: then I double moisturize. I still use the same cleanses, 353 00:16:48,034 --> 00:16:50,194 Speaker 3: same as beef, same everything else. The main thing is 354 00:16:50,634 --> 00:16:55,434 Speaker 3: more moisturizer, more hydration, and I do the enriched one 355 00:16:55,474 --> 00:16:56,194 Speaker 3: morning and night. 356 00:16:56,634 --> 00:16:57,794 Speaker 1: I'm pretty similar. I don't. 357 00:16:57,834 --> 00:17:00,154 Speaker 2: I just add maybe a bit more moisture. It's not 358 00:17:00,194 --> 00:17:01,394 Speaker 2: that I change heaps doesn't. 359 00:17:01,474 --> 00:17:03,194 Speaker 3: You don't have to spend more, you just have to 360 00:17:03,554 --> 00:17:06,594 Speaker 3: use more and use more of things that literally combat 361 00:17:06,594 --> 00:17:11,874 Speaker 3: the problem. Problem is low humidity, air conditioning, overheating. So 362 00:17:12,074 --> 00:17:14,394 Speaker 3: more ani inflammatories you probably already got, and then more 363 00:17:14,434 --> 00:17:17,954 Speaker 3: moisturizer and do it twice. My name's on it, which 364 00:17:17,994 --> 00:17:19,714 Speaker 3: I think is a healthy thing. I'm not a derm 365 00:17:19,754 --> 00:17:21,354 Speaker 3: that kind of works for lots of farmer companies. You 366 00:17:21,354 --> 00:17:23,033 Speaker 3: don't even know what's going down behind the scenes that 367 00:17:23,434 --> 00:17:25,114 Speaker 3: you know, some of these farmer companies pay for their 368 00:17:25,114 --> 00:17:27,634 Speaker 3: social media platforms if they so more products. So if 369 00:17:27,634 --> 00:17:29,313 Speaker 3: anyboy says to me, like, you know, you've got a 370 00:17:29,314 --> 00:17:31,834 Speaker 3: brand at your bias, I said, no, my name's on it. 371 00:17:31,834 --> 00:17:34,594 Speaker 1: It's really transparent. You know exactly where I'm at with it. Yeah, right. 372 00:17:34,634 --> 00:17:37,553 Speaker 3: And also no confusion or delusion or deceptive a misleading 373 00:17:37,594 --> 00:17:38,074 Speaker 3: conduct to you. 374 00:17:38,234 --> 00:17:42,313 Speaker 1: Your name's on it, so your entire you don't. So 375 00:17:42,474 --> 00:17:43,714 Speaker 1: I'm very big incredibility. 376 00:17:43,714 --> 00:17:45,914 Speaker 3: I'm very big in trust, and I'm very preserving my 377 00:17:45,954 --> 00:17:50,114 Speaker 3: reputation because reputations take ages to make and moments. 378 00:17:49,874 --> 00:17:53,194 Speaker 2: Seconds to break exactly. That's why I always think, like 379 00:17:53,234 --> 00:17:55,674 Speaker 2: when I see different criticisms for different I'm like, no 380 00:17:55,714 --> 00:17:59,314 Speaker 2: one is going to put there when they've spent decades 381 00:17:59,594 --> 00:18:02,553 Speaker 2: in their reputation at the time, They're not going to 382 00:18:02,794 --> 00:18:04,394 Speaker 2: do something that's going to ruin me. 383 00:18:04,434 --> 00:18:05,834 Speaker 1: To put my name on it was like dragging an 384 00:18:05,874 --> 00:18:07,034 Speaker 1: elephant around the football field. 385 00:18:07,194 --> 00:18:10,914 Speaker 3: Come on. But then I saw a lot of these 386 00:18:11,074 --> 00:18:13,634 Speaker 3: pseudo doctor brands. I saw a lot of other things 387 00:18:13,714 --> 00:18:16,234 Speaker 3: that were pretending to be scientific, and they weren't. I thought, well, 388 00:18:16,274 --> 00:18:18,474 Speaker 3: I am the real deal, so I probably should back myself, 389 00:18:18,514 --> 00:18:20,554 Speaker 3: and twenty years later, here we are. 390 00:18:21,434 --> 00:18:23,394 Speaker 1: But yes, so I do use all of it. I 391 00:18:23,514 --> 00:18:24,594 Speaker 1: use extra moisturizer. 392 00:18:24,994 --> 00:18:26,994 Speaker 3: Then if I'm getting like those problems you talked about, 393 00:18:27,034 --> 00:18:29,313 Speaker 3: I will use something very basic that's looked gliterin and 394 00:18:29,314 --> 00:18:32,034 Speaker 3: compounded and mulsifying. But I find if I use the 395 00:18:32,074 --> 00:18:34,914 Speaker 3: double moisturizing prevention technique, I don't have to. And then 396 00:18:34,954 --> 00:18:38,274 Speaker 3: I also do try and do treatments. Treatments do not substitute. 397 00:18:38,314 --> 00:18:40,313 Speaker 3: I mean, I have a lot of naysays go like that, 398 00:18:40,434 --> 00:18:41,714 Speaker 3: you must do thousands of lasers? 399 00:18:41,754 --> 00:18:42,234 Speaker 1: Why do some? 400 00:18:42,874 --> 00:18:45,154 Speaker 3: I'm into prevention, but if my routine is not matching 401 00:18:45,194 --> 00:18:47,274 Speaker 3: my clinical therapies, it's not going to sustain. 402 00:18:47,874 --> 00:18:50,594 Speaker 2: A treatment is like you can have them, but it's 403 00:18:50,674 --> 00:18:52,994 Speaker 2: kind of like going to a really hard gym class 404 00:18:53,114 --> 00:18:55,034 Speaker 2: or having a personal trainer. I love that, but they're 405 00:18:55,114 --> 00:18:58,954 Speaker 2: not working out any other day ever. That is exactly 406 00:18:58,994 --> 00:19:00,074 Speaker 2: my analogy to my patients. 407 00:19:00,074 --> 00:19:01,834 Speaker 3: I go, it's like going to the gym, getting really fit, 408 00:19:01,874 --> 00:19:03,834 Speaker 3: then stopping and things, and then eating four times. 409 00:19:03,634 --> 00:19:05,434 Speaker 2: A year and that's your treatment. But you're not going 410 00:19:05,474 --> 00:19:07,674 Speaker 2: to be fit. No, we're not gonna have good key. 411 00:19:07,754 --> 00:19:09,114 Speaker 3: What you do in the gym has to match what 412 00:19:09,114 --> 00:19:10,874 Speaker 3: you're doing at home. It has to match what you're meeting. 413 00:19:11,394 --> 00:19:14,314 Speaker 3: And consistency and simplicity is key. And here repeat well, 414 00:19:14,354 --> 00:19:16,554 Speaker 3: thank you so much, appreciate your knowledge. 415 00:19:16,594 --> 00:19:18,034 Speaker 1: Thank you, this has been fun, and thank you for 416 00:19:18,074 --> 00:19:21,273 Speaker 1: the fantastic questions. I really enjoyed it. And that is 417 00:19:21,434 --> 00:19:22,834 Speaker 1: all the time that we have for today. 418 00:19:22,914 --> 00:19:26,874 Speaker 2: Thank you so much for joining us today, doctor Natasha Cook, 419 00:19:26,914 --> 00:19:28,994 Speaker 2: and thank you so much for listening to you, beauty. 420 00:19:29,314 --> 00:19:31,634 Speaker 2: Make sure you follow us on Instagram and TikTok and 421 00:19:31,674 --> 00:19:34,274 Speaker 2: you can watch this and more episodes on our amazing 422 00:19:34,354 --> 00:19:37,594 Speaker 2: YouTube channel. Get over there and subscribe for now. Thanks 423 00:19:37,634 --> 00:19:39,194 Speaker 2: for joining me and see you next time. 424 00:19:39,314 --> 00:19:46,714 Speaker 1: Bye. 425 00:19:52,194 --> 00:19:55,234 Speaker 2: Mama Mia acknowledges the traditional owners of the land. We 426 00:19:55,314 --> 00:19:58,513 Speaker 2: have recorded this podcast on the Gadigol people of the 427 00:19:58,554 --> 00:20:01,994 Speaker 2: Eora Nation. We pay our respects to their elders past 428 00:20:02,034 --> 00:20:05,434 Speaker 2: and present, and extend that respect to all Aboriginal and 429 00:20:05,474 --> 00:20:06,874 Speaker 2: Torres Strait Islander cultures. 430 00:20:07,154 --> 00:20:07,234 Speaker 3: Just