1 00:00:08,304 --> 00:00:09,962 Speaker 1: Makeup is my therapy. 2 00:00:11,382 --> 00:00:12,684 Speaker 1: Obsessed and I don't 3 00:00:13,494 --> 00:00:13,894 Speaker 1: about it. 4 00:00:17,553 --> 00:00:20,714 Speaker 1: Welcome to You Beauty, the podcast for your face. I'm 5 00:00:20,714 --> 00:00:25,583 Speaker 1: Kelly McCarron, and this is the formula. 50 years. That 6 00:00:25,583 --> 00:00:28,454 Speaker 1: is how long La Roche Posse has been the ultimate 7 00:00:29,034 --> 00:00:34,634 Speaker 1: science-backed skin lifesaver. It's the French pharmacy MVP the dermatologists 8 00:00:34,634 --> 00:00:38,592 Speaker 1: actually use and recommend. To dive into the decades of 9 00:00:38,592 --> 00:00:41,193 Speaker 1: history and the deep science behind the brand, we have 10 00:00:41,193 --> 00:00:42,354 Speaker 1: the incredible, 11 00:00:42,973 --> 00:00:48,104 Speaker 1: Kara McDonald. This rockstar dermatologist is an expert on literally 12 00:00:48,104 --> 00:00:51,843 Speaker 1: everything's skin. Doctor Kara, welcome, we are so glad you're here. 13 00:00:52,153 --> 00:00:55,294 Speaker 1: You have such beautiful skin, but how? 14 00:00:56,544 --> 00:00:56,553 Speaker 1: wa 15 00:00:58,204 --> 00:01:03,393 Speaker 1: So Doctor Kara, the brand's origin starts with a medieval 16 00:01:03,393 --> 00:01:08,084 Speaker 1: night and a spring. That is quite a story. What 17 00:01:08,084 --> 00:01:14,024 Speaker 1: makes their famed water such a crucial scientific ingredient today? 18 00:01:14,364 --> 00:01:18,344 Speaker 2: Well, yes, you are right, apparently the brand dates back, 19 00:01:18,643 --> 00:01:22,563 Speaker 2: you know, 1000 years or so when it became known for, 20 00:01:22,844 --> 00:01:26,283 Speaker 2: you know, curing or solving people's skin diseases and, 21 00:01:26,904 --> 00:01:30,103 Speaker 2: Uh, people trekked across Europe and across France to go 22 00:01:30,103 --> 00:01:33,383 Speaker 2: and bathe in these springs to help their skin, and 23 00:01:33,383 --> 00:01:36,664 Speaker 2: I suppose much more recently it's been discovered, some of 24 00:01:36,664 --> 00:01:39,584 Speaker 2: the reasons why, and a large part of it is 25 00:01:39,584 --> 00:01:43,224 Speaker 2: this ingredient, selenium or a mineral selenium, that's rich in 26 00:01:43,224 --> 00:01:45,743 Speaker 2: the springs there, but you know, my question was, well 27 00:01:45,743 --> 00:01:48,063 Speaker 2: why can't we just add selenium to everything, but, 28 00:01:48,764 --> 00:01:52,164 Speaker 2: My understanding is that it's a combination of different minerals 29 00:01:52,164 --> 00:01:55,084 Speaker 2: that form what they call a mineral matrix that is 30 00:01:55,084 --> 00:01:58,283 Speaker 2: pretty much unique to the ground that's in that region, 31 00:01:58,524 --> 00:02:02,024 Speaker 2: and that's why you can't necessarily replicate it. And this 32 00:02:02,183 --> 00:02:05,724 Speaker 2: mineral matrix, which particularly is high in selenium, seems to 33 00:02:05,724 --> 00:02:10,003 Speaker 2: be anti-inflammatory. It's antioxidant as well, so, you know, less 34 00:02:10,002 --> 00:02:11,202 Speaker 2: free radicals damage. 35 00:02:11,599 --> 00:02:14,058 Speaker 2: And I think one of the most important things is 36 00:02:14,058 --> 00:02:18,298 Speaker 2: that it supports the skin's microbiome, so our natural bacteria 37 00:02:18,298 --> 00:02:21,239 Speaker 2: on the skin that we need to help our immunity 38 00:02:21,239 --> 00:02:24,459 Speaker 2: and to stop dysregulation and poor healing and so on, 39 00:02:24,679 --> 00:02:29,399 Speaker 2: thrives in the right environment, and um, the water from 40 00:02:29,399 --> 00:02:31,158 Speaker 2: La Roche Posse is, is really 41 00:02:31,158 --> 00:02:35,078 Speaker 1: it. I love like a good tale. Like I love 42 00:02:35,078 --> 00:02:37,438 Speaker 1: a good origin story, but it's just like, oh, I 43 00:02:37,438 --> 00:02:39,239 Speaker 1: was just sitting in my kitchen and thought I should 44 00:02:39,239 --> 00:02:40,498 Speaker 1: do this, like it's just, 45 00:02:41,783 --> 00:02:45,263 Speaker 1: Yeah, it doesn't have the same mystery, does it? Well, 46 00:02:45,584 --> 00:02:51,024 Speaker 1: LaRoche Pose is celebrating 50 years, and one inspiring face 47 00:02:51,024 --> 00:02:55,813 Speaker 1: we proudly see standing behind the brand is burn survivor 48 00:02:55,813 --> 00:02:59,503 Speaker 1: Stephanie Browwitt. So she couldn't join us today, but her 49 00:02:59,503 --> 00:03:00,883 Speaker 1: story is very powerful. 50 00:03:01,554 --> 00:03:06,074 Speaker 1: As a dermatologist, what does her story represent to you 51 00:03:06,074 --> 00:03:10,313 Speaker 1: about the brand and about how skincare can support people 52 00:03:10,313 --> 00:03:17,274 Speaker 1: through everything from their, you know, healing to their biggest challenges? Yeah, 53 00:03:17,393 --> 00:03:18,024 Speaker 2: I think. 54 00:03:18,494 --> 00:03:20,864 Speaker 2: Those who know her story will know she's a White 55 00:03:20,864 --> 00:03:25,233 Speaker 2: Island volcano survivor and lost her sister and father, and 56 00:03:25,233 --> 00:03:28,834 Speaker 2: then spent months and months in hospital recovering from burns herself, 57 00:03:28,994 --> 00:03:33,614 Speaker 2: so she is really phenomenal, but I think the reason 58 00:03:34,434 --> 00:03:38,714 Speaker 2: she loves this brand and connects with them is because 59 00:03:38,714 --> 00:03:41,994 Speaker 2: at the end of the day, this brand is literally 60 00:03:41,994 --> 00:03:46,813 Speaker 2: designed for people with compromised skin, sensitive skin, problem skin. 61 00:03:47,364 --> 00:03:50,974 Speaker 2: And many people don't understand, as dermatologists, that's what we 62 00:03:50,974 --> 00:03:54,574 Speaker 2: see every single day, we're not seeing, you know, the 63 00:03:54,574 --> 00:03:56,934 Speaker 2: people like you and me who, who have probably pretty 64 00:03:56,934 --> 00:03:59,574 Speaker 2: good skin and just wanna make it that little bit better, 65 00:03:59,813 --> 00:04:01,774 Speaker 2: more glowy, anti-aging, and so on. 66 00:04:02,224 --> 00:04:04,893 Speaker 2: There really are a huge number of people in the 67 00:04:04,893 --> 00:04:07,614 Speaker 2: population who have difficulties with their skin on a daily 68 00:04:07,614 --> 00:04:10,643 Speaker 2: basis and they just want to get to normal skin, 69 00:04:11,224 --> 00:04:15,983 Speaker 2: and this brand really focuses on those people, where they 70 00:04:15,983 --> 00:04:19,104 Speaker 2: focus their research, they focus their clinical trials, they focus 71 00:04:19,104 --> 00:04:25,142 Speaker 2: their innovation on helping people who have skin conditions, skin struggles, 72 00:04:25,253 --> 00:04:27,483 Speaker 2: skin barrier issues, healing, 73 00:04:27,792 --> 00:04:31,683 Speaker 2: And so for someone like Stephanie, the products really speak 74 00:04:31,683 --> 00:04:35,283 Speaker 2: to her, and she knows that she can rely on 75 00:04:35,284 --> 00:04:38,684 Speaker 2: them to, first of all, not cause any problems, and 76 00:04:38,683 --> 00:04:44,284 Speaker 2: then secondly, promote healing, reduce inflammation, and help with all 77 00:04:44,284 --> 00:04:46,202 Speaker 2: the things that come with recovery. 78 00:04:46,292 --> 00:04:50,293 Speaker 2: From burns and scarring that she has, but it extends to, 79 00:04:50,503 --> 00:04:53,563 Speaker 2: to more people than just Stephanie, obviously, it's people who've had, 80 00:04:53,933 --> 00:04:58,653 Speaker 2: you know, chemotherapy, radiation, and other, you know, skin problems 81 00:04:58,654 --> 00:05:01,653 Speaker 2: such as dermatitis and all the things we see every 82 00:05:01,654 --> 00:05:02,363 Speaker 2: day as well. 83 00:05:02,534 --> 00:05:04,753 Speaker 1: And speaking of skin, so, 84 00:05:05,253 --> 00:05:08,004 Speaker 1: You know, I'm speaking to you and as you said, 85 00:05:08,123 --> 00:05:12,452 Speaker 1: both of us have pretty, your normal average skin. But 86 00:05:12,452 --> 00:05:15,774 Speaker 1: when we're actually thinking about skin, so we're talking about 87 00:05:15,774 --> 00:05:18,693 Speaker 1: different products, we're talking about different routines, but can you 88 00:05:18,693 --> 00:05:23,913 Speaker 1: talk to us about the functionality of your skin? 89 00:05:24,373 --> 00:05:27,493 Speaker 1: And why it's actually so important to look after it. 90 00:05:27,662 --> 00:05:30,063 Speaker 1: I just don't think it's something people, we don't think 91 00:05:30,063 --> 00:05:31,863 Speaker 1: about it, right, like we just think about, oh I've 92 00:05:31,863 --> 00:05:33,584 Speaker 1: got a blemish, or I've got a wrinkle, but we're 93 00:05:33,584 --> 00:05:36,063 Speaker 1: not thinking about what it's core purpose actually 94 00:05:36,063 --> 00:05:36,563 Speaker 1: is. 95 00:05:36,904 --> 00:05:40,103 Speaker 2: Absolutely, and I'm fascinated by the skin, I just love. 96 00:05:40,188 --> 00:05:43,667 Speaker 2: Of, you know, thinking about it, studying it, um, hearing 97 00:05:43,667 --> 00:05:46,399 Speaker 2: about it, because it's amazing. I mean, our, the human 98 00:05:46,399 --> 00:05:48,938 Speaker 2: body is so amazing. I think what we can do, 99 00:05:49,388 --> 00:05:52,347 Speaker 2: how clever it is, you know, our skin regulates our 100 00:05:52,347 --> 00:05:54,709 Speaker 2: entire body temperature, you know, it stops us from getting 101 00:05:54,709 --> 00:05:58,308 Speaker 2: too hot, too cold, you know, everything from the little 102 00:05:58,308 --> 00:06:02,629 Speaker 2: hair follicles, the oil glands, vitamin D is produced in 103 00:06:02,628 --> 00:06:06,029 Speaker 2: the skin, we've got a huge immune system in the skin. 104 00:06:06,483 --> 00:06:09,534 Speaker 2: It's so extensive what the skin does that we often 105 00:06:09,534 --> 00:06:12,213 Speaker 2: don't think about the normal healthy function of the skin 106 00:06:12,214 --> 00:06:13,853 Speaker 2: and how to keep it that way, as you say, 107 00:06:13,933 --> 00:06:16,373 Speaker 2: we just worry about, well, how do we stop a wrinkle, 108 00:06:16,404 --> 00:06:19,693 Speaker 2: or how do we fix a pimple, but really the 109 00:06:19,693 --> 00:06:21,693 Speaker 2: key to the skin is what we call the skin barrier, 110 00:06:21,803 --> 00:06:26,173 Speaker 2: and the skin barrier is an ultra clever design which, 111 00:06:26,452 --> 00:06:29,972 Speaker 2: you know, really stops anything from the environment that we 112 00:06:29,972 --> 00:06:31,673 Speaker 2: don't want getting into the skin. 113 00:06:32,013 --> 00:06:36,383 Speaker 2: And restricts the water loss and problems if we lost 114 00:06:36,383 --> 00:06:39,784 Speaker 2: our water out of the skin, so the skin barrier 115 00:06:39,784 --> 00:06:43,464 Speaker 2: is what keeps the skin at the optimal hydration, and 116 00:06:43,464 --> 00:06:46,504 Speaker 2: people think that drinking lots of water actually will hydrate 117 00:06:46,503 --> 00:06:49,943 Speaker 2: their skin, but that does nothing for skin hydration. All 118 00:06:49,943 --> 00:06:54,702 Speaker 2: skin hydration comes down to the skin barrier, and also 119 00:06:54,702 --> 00:06:57,263 Speaker 2: the integrity of the skin, so how much hyaluronic acid 120 00:06:57,263 --> 00:06:59,662 Speaker 2: is naturally in the skin to hold water there. 121 00:06:59,943 --> 00:07:00,702 Speaker 1: It's just, 122 00:07:00,834 --> 00:07:05,013 Speaker 1: Crazy like thinking about it as its core function, but 123 00:07:05,392 --> 00:07:07,633 Speaker 1: when you say not to worry about drinking water, that 124 00:07:07,633 --> 00:07:10,513 Speaker 1: did just remind me, not worry, but like that it's 125 00:07:10,513 --> 00:07:13,624 Speaker 1: not gonna do anything. I recently got told that I 126 00:07:13,624 --> 00:07:16,594 Speaker 1: could drink 8 L of water a day. Well, firstly 127 00:07:16,594 --> 00:07:18,352 Speaker 1: that would drown my internal organs, but, 128 00:07:18,744 --> 00:07:21,223 Speaker 1: That you could drink as much water, but it's actually 129 00:07:21,223 --> 00:07:24,853 Speaker 1: better to eat water-rich foods for skin's hydration, is that 130 00:07:24,864 --> 00:07:26,784 Speaker 1: true or is that just something I was told? 131 00:07:27,184 --> 00:07:31,943 Speaker 2: Look, I think that's an interesting comment because basically, you know, 132 00:07:32,064 --> 00:07:35,624 Speaker 2: what if rich foods are just going to be absorbed into, 133 00:07:35,727 --> 00:07:38,448 Speaker 2: The body as water, but the reason to do that 134 00:07:38,448 --> 00:07:42,727 Speaker 2: would be that water-rich foods have all the other minerals 135 00:07:42,727 --> 00:07:46,848 Speaker 2: and vitamins in them that are critical for healthy skin 136 00:07:46,848 --> 00:07:50,249 Speaker 2: function and, and all those antioxidants, especially in water-rich foods. 137 00:07:50,358 --> 00:07:52,508 Speaker 2: Most water-rich foods are fruit and veggies, obviously. 138 00:07:53,084 --> 00:07:57,614 Speaker 2: And they are high in antioxidants, a lot of the 139 00:07:57,614 --> 00:08:01,013 Speaker 2: nutrients that we need for healthy skin function, so I 140 00:08:01,013 --> 00:08:04,213 Speaker 2: suppose from that point of view, you are going to 141 00:08:04,214 --> 00:08:07,013 Speaker 2: be better off getting liquid in, but, you know, if 142 00:08:07,013 --> 00:08:08,893 Speaker 2: you drink 8 L of water a day, you just 143 00:08:08,893 --> 00:08:13,214 Speaker 2: pee 8 L a day. Our system is very carefully 144 00:08:13,214 --> 00:08:15,814 Speaker 2: in balance so that our blood hydration, 145 00:08:15,923 --> 00:08:19,542 Speaker 2: And and organs are within a very small parameter the 146 00:08:19,542 --> 00:08:20,323 Speaker 2: whole time. 147 00:08:20,602 --> 00:08:20,923 Speaker 1: When it 148 00:08:20,923 --> 00:08:26,564 Speaker 1: comes to our nighttime skin routines, we often hear different 149 00:08:26,564 --> 00:08:29,084 Speaker 1: things about it and we've got our routine set, but 150 00:08:29,084 --> 00:08:32,083 Speaker 1: can you talk to us about why it is so 151 00:08:32,084 --> 00:08:34,364 Speaker 1: important to have a good nighttime routine and what is 152 00:08:34,364 --> 00:08:38,124 Speaker 1: actually happening to our skin overnight versus what it might 153 00:08:38,124 --> 00:08:38,804 Speaker 1: be doing during the day? 154 00:08:39,273 --> 00:08:43,194 Speaker 2: Absolutely, the entire body goes into a sort of different 155 00:08:43,194 --> 00:08:47,473 Speaker 2: functional mode overnight, and our skin included. We're essentially into 156 00:08:47,473 --> 00:08:50,874 Speaker 2: repair mode, so most of the stresses on the body, 157 00:08:51,194 --> 00:08:55,153 Speaker 2: which come from metabolism, the foods we eat, the exercise 158 00:08:55,153 --> 00:08:59,713 Speaker 2: we do, the toxins in our environment, and all of that, 159 00:09:00,033 --> 00:09:01,814 Speaker 2: most of them hit us during the day. 160 00:09:02,194 --> 00:09:05,894 Speaker 2: And then we need rest and sleep to switch everything 161 00:09:06,033 --> 00:09:09,233 Speaker 2: off and go into repair mode, so we know that 162 00:09:09,514 --> 00:09:14,754 Speaker 2: skin cell turnover increases overnight, DNA repair happens more overnight, 163 00:09:15,114 --> 00:09:17,954 Speaker 2: the body, when we're in the kind of fasted state 164 00:09:17,954 --> 00:09:21,494 Speaker 2: as well, is more likely to pick up damaged cells and, 165 00:09:21,593 --> 00:09:24,194 Speaker 2: and knock them off in a process called apoptosis, which 166 00:09:24,194 --> 00:09:27,574 Speaker 2: is really important to reduce our risk of getting cancer. 167 00:09:28,114 --> 00:09:31,874 Speaker 2: But we can kind of utilize this to help further 168 00:09:31,874 --> 00:09:35,983 Speaker 2: promote healthy skin and repair by using our active ingredients 169 00:09:35,983 --> 00:09:39,624 Speaker 2: at night to stimulate those repair processes even more. 170 00:09:39,913 --> 00:09:42,713 Speaker 1: But how does your skin know it's nighttime? Like what 171 00:09:42,713 --> 00:09:45,994 Speaker 1: would a shift worker that actually sleeps during the day, 172 00:09:46,074 --> 00:09:47,793 Speaker 1: would it be, do you know, like, do you know 173 00:09:47,793 --> 00:09:48,033 Speaker 1: what I mean? 174 00:09:48,343 --> 00:09:50,064 Speaker 1: Like, how does your skin know? 175 00:09:50,273 --> 00:09:54,394 Speaker 2: Yeah, it's a good question. I think there's obviously circadian 176 00:09:54,394 --> 00:09:59,153 Speaker 2: rhythms that are influenced by light, and that has some impact, 177 00:09:59,233 --> 00:10:02,554 Speaker 2: but I think essentially when you're sleeping, is when your 178 00:10:02,554 --> 00:10:05,713 Speaker 2: body is in that repair mode, so, hopefully our shift 179 00:10:05,713 --> 00:10:08,093 Speaker 2: workers are getting a bit of an eye mask, and, 180 00:10:08,273 --> 00:10:10,713 Speaker 2: A chance to rejuvenate and repair. 181 00:10:11,033 --> 00:10:11,314 Speaker 1: You 182 00:10:11,314 --> 00:10:14,754 Speaker 1: call azalic acid a quiet achiever. Why do you love 183 00:10:14,754 --> 00:10:17,624 Speaker 1: it so much and why is it so effective for 184 00:10:17,673 --> 00:10:19,913 Speaker 1: managing breakouts and dark 185 00:10:19,913 --> 00:10:20,653 Speaker 1: spots? 186 00:10:21,014 --> 00:10:26,023 Speaker 2: Uh, azalic acid is one of these, you know, I think, dermatologists' favorites, 187 00:10:26,033 --> 00:10:28,374 Speaker 2: and it's been around for a long, long time and, 188 00:10:28,793 --> 00:10:31,514 Speaker 2: I think it's almost been one of the dermatologist's best 189 00:10:31,514 --> 00:10:35,733 Speaker 2: kept secrets, because it's having its heyday now, it's coming 190 00:10:35,733 --> 00:10:39,343 Speaker 2: to light in social media, especially, which is great to see, 191 00:10:39,434 --> 00:10:42,413 Speaker 2: because it really is a bit of an all-rounder ingredient, 192 00:10:42,704 --> 00:10:44,554 Speaker 2: a lot like niacinamide, it's got a lot, 193 00:10:44,848 --> 00:10:48,619 Speaker 2: Benefits and not many downsides. So as like acid would 194 00:10:48,619 --> 00:10:54,499 Speaker 2: be more anti-inflammatory, so reduce sort of irritation or inflammation 195 00:10:54,499 --> 00:10:56,418 Speaker 2: in the skin. We particularly like to use it in 196 00:10:56,418 --> 00:10:59,218 Speaker 2: breakout prone skin. We can use it in rosacea, it's 197 00:10:59,218 --> 00:11:04,679 Speaker 2: very helpful as well. It can reduce pigmentation by inhibiting the, 198 00:11:04,769 --> 00:11:07,578 Speaker 2: the pigment cells from producing too much pigment. 199 00:11:07,913 --> 00:11:11,114 Speaker 2: And also has a bit of an antibacterial effect, um, 200 00:11:11,264 --> 00:11:16,233 Speaker 2: but ultimately it's very, yeah, highly, um, tolerable, so even 201 00:11:16,233 --> 00:11:18,874 Speaker 2: people with sensitive skin can get some of the benefits, 202 00:11:19,114 --> 00:11:21,033 Speaker 2: you know, they may not be able to use other 203 00:11:21,033 --> 00:11:26,074 Speaker 2: actives like retinols easily or alpha hydroxy acids, but they 204 00:11:26,074 --> 00:11:27,614 Speaker 2: often can use azelaic acid. 205 00:11:27,754 --> 00:11:28,273 Speaker 1: OK. 206 00:11:29,194 --> 00:11:33,144 Speaker 1: And the new Effilar AZ or the AZ gel cream, 207 00:11:33,283 --> 00:11:37,163 Speaker 1: it's got a tri-accid complex. How does that formula differ 208 00:11:37,163 --> 00:11:41,602 Speaker 1: from those old school, I used to get really bad 209 00:11:41,603 --> 00:11:45,764 Speaker 1: acne and in high school we would like, I'm not 210 00:11:45,764 --> 00:11:48,023 Speaker 1: gonna name names, I'm not gonna dob on any of 211 00:11:48,023 --> 00:11:51,204 Speaker 1: the companies, but it would actually just burn, it wouldn't 212 00:11:51,204 --> 00:11:54,583 Speaker 1: even help the pimple, it would just burn the pimple 213 00:11:54,764 --> 00:11:56,684 Speaker 1: and then all of the skin around it. 214 00:11:57,074 --> 00:12:00,054 Speaker 1: Yeah. Like to be a kid these days with acne 215 00:12:00,054 --> 00:12:01,153 Speaker 1: must be so much easier. 216 00:12:01,463 --> 00:12:06,593 Speaker 2: Basically, the Ecla AZ gel cream, it has, as you said, 217 00:12:06,673 --> 00:12:10,583 Speaker 2: this tri-accid complex they call it, so azelaic acid, as 218 00:12:10,583 --> 00:12:17,153 Speaker 2: we discussed, is actually a very gentle ingredient, anti-inflammatory, anti-pigmentation, antibacterial, 219 00:12:17,273 --> 00:12:19,213 Speaker 2: so great for acne-prone skin. 220 00:12:19,583 --> 00:12:23,644 Speaker 2: In blemish-prone skin or acne prone skin, we also have 221 00:12:24,103 --> 00:12:28,413 Speaker 2: a blockage within the pore, basically, any, any person who 222 00:12:28,413 --> 00:12:31,184 Speaker 2: gets any pimple ever, it starts with a clog in 223 00:12:31,184 --> 00:12:35,523 Speaker 2: the pore, and so if you want to effectively prevent 224 00:12:35,523 --> 00:12:38,764 Speaker 2: and clear blackheads and blockages and, 225 00:12:39,204 --> 00:12:43,083 Speaker 2: Um, improve your breakouts or reduce your breakouts, what you 226 00:12:43,083 --> 00:12:46,244 Speaker 2: wanna do is be able to breakdown those blockages and 227 00:12:46,244 --> 00:12:48,564 Speaker 2: reduce the blockages in the pore because that's what becomes 228 00:12:48,564 --> 00:12:54,374 Speaker 2: irritated and inflamed. So, those ingredients you're talking about, or 229 00:12:54,374 --> 00:12:58,384 Speaker 2: your products you've used in the past, they do breakdown 230 00:12:58,384 --> 00:13:00,324 Speaker 2: the skin cells, which is why they just make the 231 00:13:00,324 --> 00:13:02,324 Speaker 2: skin peel and irritated. 232 00:13:02,764 --> 00:13:05,804 Speaker 2: But usually the concentration is, is too high and they're 233 00:13:05,804 --> 00:13:09,764 Speaker 2: too irritating, so you often cause more inflammation in the process, 234 00:13:09,843 --> 00:13:13,903 Speaker 2: which actually can worsen your breakouts. So, by using the 235 00:13:13,903 --> 00:13:18,764 Speaker 2: combination of the three, so they use salicylic acid, lipohydroxy acid, 236 00:13:18,864 --> 00:13:23,603 Speaker 2: and the azelaic acid, and that three acid complex, what 237 00:13:23,603 --> 00:13:26,444 Speaker 2: it's doing is it's in low enough concentrations that it's 238 00:13:26,444 --> 00:13:29,644 Speaker 2: not going to be too irritating, but because the 3 239 00:13:29,644 --> 00:13:31,804 Speaker 2: ingredients are being used together, it can, 240 00:13:31,858 --> 00:13:35,689 Speaker 2: Penetrate down into the pores, unblock them, help kill off 241 00:13:35,689 --> 00:13:39,019 Speaker 2: the bacteria that are causing breakouts as well, and reduce 242 00:13:39,019 --> 00:13:41,739 Speaker 2: the inflammation. So it's one of those things we call 243 00:13:41,739 --> 00:13:47,298 Speaker 2: syistic activity where the three ingredients together have a greater 244 00:13:47,298 --> 00:13:50,259 Speaker 2: sum than, you know, what you would expect if you 245 00:13:50,259 --> 00:13:54,269 Speaker 2: have the, the three individual ingredients, you put them together and, 246 00:13:54,538 --> 00:13:55,809 Speaker 2: and you get a better result. 247 00:13:56,059 --> 00:13:57,858 Speaker 1: OK, well I'll have to try that the next time 248 00:13:57,858 --> 00:14:00,019 Speaker 1: I get a pimple because I still do get them 249 00:14:00,019 --> 00:14:00,958 Speaker 1: every now and then. 250 00:14:05,783 --> 00:14:09,153 Speaker 1: We all need to cleanse, that's one thing that everyone 251 00:14:09,153 --> 00:14:11,194 Speaker 1: needs to do no matter what, you know, how many 252 00:14:11,194 --> 00:14:14,793 Speaker 1: steps they've got in their routine. I think it's very 253 00:14:14,793 --> 00:14:18,153 Speaker 1: confusing for people. How do I know whether or not 254 00:14:18,153 --> 00:14:20,713 Speaker 1: I should use a foaming cleanser or a gel cleanser 255 00:14:20,713 --> 00:14:23,314 Speaker 1: or an oil cleanser or a milk cleanser. What is 256 00:14:23,314 --> 00:14:27,593 Speaker 1: your general rule of thumb when deciding what someone should 257 00:14:27,593 --> 00:14:28,093 Speaker 1: use? 258 00:14:28,273 --> 00:14:31,153 Speaker 2: The bottom line is everybody can use a cream cleanser 259 00:14:31,153 --> 00:14:32,514 Speaker 2: because they're gentle and they. 260 00:14:32,689 --> 00:14:35,819 Speaker 2: Won't cause any problems on the skin. If you have 261 00:14:35,819 --> 00:14:39,819 Speaker 2: an active skin problem that you want to target with 262 00:14:39,819 --> 00:14:43,059 Speaker 2: your cleansing, then you might be looking at a cleanser 263 00:14:43,059 --> 00:14:46,739 Speaker 2: that has some active ingredients in it, or, for example, 264 00:14:46,819 --> 00:14:49,778 Speaker 2: if you've got naturally very oily skin, you might look 265 00:14:49,778 --> 00:14:54,179 Speaker 2: for ingredients that are going to reduce the oil in 266 00:14:54,179 --> 00:14:57,619 Speaker 2: your skin and also potentially help breakdown some of those 267 00:14:57,619 --> 00:14:59,439 Speaker 2: blocked pores, like I was talking about. 268 00:14:59,954 --> 00:15:02,194 Speaker 2: So I think the, the best rule to go by 269 00:15:02,194 --> 00:15:05,514 Speaker 2: is gentle is best, cream cleansers actually can be used 270 00:15:05,514 --> 00:15:08,634 Speaker 2: for anyone, whether they're oily skin, sensitive skin, dry skin, 271 00:15:08,744 --> 00:15:09,514 Speaker 2: normal skin. 272 00:15:10,014 --> 00:15:14,494 Speaker 2: But if you are an oilier, breakout prone person, then 273 00:15:14,494 --> 00:15:17,983 Speaker 2: it is safer to use a gel or foaming cleanser. 274 00:15:18,254 --> 00:15:21,173 Speaker 2: It should still be gentle and soap-free. Soap is basically 275 00:15:21,173 --> 00:15:24,694 Speaker 2: an ingredient that breaks down oil, um, it's like detergent 276 00:15:24,694 --> 00:15:27,014 Speaker 2: that we wash our dishes with. You'd think that would 277 00:15:27,014 --> 00:15:28,533 Speaker 2: be good if you had oily skin, but what it 278 00:15:28,533 --> 00:15:30,874 Speaker 2: does is it actually breaks down the bonds between our, 279 00:15:31,074 --> 00:15:31,413 Speaker 2: all our, 280 00:15:31,556 --> 00:15:33,556 Speaker 2: Skin cells as well, which are made of like of 281 00:15:33,556 --> 00:15:36,536 Speaker 2: an oily substance, and so it damages the skin barrier, 282 00:15:36,877 --> 00:15:41,267 Speaker 2: and that's why we avoid soap cleansers and detergent, but 283 00:15:41,267 --> 00:15:45,697 Speaker 2: gel cleansers that are formulated with a, a soap-free, you know, vehicle, 284 00:15:45,717 --> 00:15:48,317 Speaker 2: and then with some active ingredients, they can be helpful 285 00:15:48,317 --> 00:15:52,606 Speaker 2: for acne or oily skin quite safely and quite safely used. OK, 286 00:15:52,757 --> 00:15:53,197 Speaker 1: so you, 287 00:15:53,290 --> 00:15:56,290 Speaker 1: Did talk about actives and not wanting to put actives 288 00:15:56,290 --> 00:15:59,980 Speaker 1: on an impaired skin barrier. So let's just say that 289 00:15:59,980 --> 00:16:03,340 Speaker 1: everyone that's listening and wants to be using their actives 290 00:16:03,340 --> 00:16:06,340 Speaker 1: has a good skin barrier so they can go ahead. 291 00:16:06,679 --> 00:16:09,739 Speaker 1: What is a really easy no fail rule for getting 292 00:16:09,739 --> 00:16:14,900 Speaker 1: an order of serums or and creams with actives right, so, 293 00:16:16,434 --> 00:16:19,353 Speaker 1: Vitamin C in the morning, retinol every few nights or whatnot, 294 00:16:19,413 --> 00:16:22,114 Speaker 1: like where would you fit your Azaly in there? Yeah, 295 00:16:22,273 --> 00:16:25,494 Speaker 2: great question, so there's a lot of confusion around this, 296 00:16:25,514 --> 00:16:28,314 Speaker 2: and I'm always hearing people say, oh just put them 297 00:16:28,314 --> 00:16:30,793 Speaker 2: on thinnest to thickest, but that actually, that rule does 298 00:16:30,793 --> 00:16:34,593 Speaker 2: not always work, because you might have retinol in a 299 00:16:34,593 --> 00:16:37,754 Speaker 2: cream base, but because that is an ingredient that you 300 00:16:37,754 --> 00:16:41,353 Speaker 2: want to penetrate deepest, that's an active ingredient. 301 00:16:41,684 --> 00:16:46,004 Speaker 2: Targeting your fibroblasts, your collagen production in your dermis, that's 302 00:16:46,004 --> 00:16:48,403 Speaker 2: the ingredient that you really want to get into the 303 00:16:48,403 --> 00:16:51,663 Speaker 2: skin deep, go on first. So if you put your 304 00:16:51,963 --> 00:16:56,163 Speaker 2: hyaluronic acid serum, because it's more runny than your retinol 305 00:16:56,163 --> 00:16:59,804 Speaker 2: on first, you're actually going to, you know, hydrate the 306 00:16:59,804 --> 00:17:02,444 Speaker 2: top outer layer of the skin, but also stop your 307 00:17:02,444 --> 00:17:05,763 Speaker 2: retinol then penetrating in, because you've already put a layer 308 00:17:05,763 --> 00:17:06,704 Speaker 2: of something on. 309 00:17:07,083 --> 00:17:10,804 Speaker 2: If you have too many layers, again, every layer you 310 00:17:10,804 --> 00:17:12,794 Speaker 2: put on, the one above it is going to do 311 00:17:12,794 --> 00:17:15,483 Speaker 2: less and be less and less effective because it's basically 312 00:17:15,483 --> 00:17:19,443 Speaker 2: being blocked, and it's being diluted, so you, you're not 313 00:17:19,443 --> 00:17:22,443 Speaker 2: going to get the full effect of your number 5 314 00:17:22,443 --> 00:17:24,924 Speaker 2: or your 5th serum that you put on, if you 315 00:17:24,924 --> 00:17:26,843 Speaker 2: just keep putting more and more on. 316 00:17:26,953 --> 00:17:29,843 Speaker 1: Yeah, sometimes when I'm, you know, just can't be bothered, 317 00:17:29,924 --> 00:17:31,884 Speaker 1: I just don't even wait for the layers to dry 318 00:17:31,884 --> 00:17:34,683 Speaker 1: and I'm like, oh, it'll be right, no, no, it's 319 00:17:34,683 --> 00:17:35,943 Speaker 1: just wasting product. 320 00:17:36,924 --> 00:17:40,333 Speaker 2: Yeah, exactly. I love just thinking, ABC, you know, vitamin 321 00:17:40,333 --> 00:17:43,894 Speaker 2: A is great, we know about all the anti-aging ingredients. 322 00:17:44,053 --> 00:17:50,414 Speaker 2: Vitamin B is niacinamide and panthanol, they are soothing, they're hydrating, they're, 323 00:17:50,693 --> 00:17:53,894 Speaker 2: you know, great ingredients for pigmentation, breakouts, that sort of thing. 324 00:17:54,004 --> 00:17:56,514 Speaker 2: And then vitamin C is your kind of antioxidant or, 325 00:17:56,614 --> 00:17:59,534 Speaker 2: or group of antioxidants. So ABC is. 326 00:17:59,774 --> 00:18:03,293 Speaker 2: Great starting point for everyone. Obviously, you're going to put 327 00:18:03,294 --> 00:18:06,433 Speaker 2: your antioxidants, your ingredients that protect you on in the morning, 328 00:18:06,884 --> 00:18:12,134 Speaker 2: and your most active rejuvenating or renewing ingredients generally at night. 329 00:18:12,294 --> 00:18:16,294 Speaker 2: But if you are trying to treat something like blemish-prone skin, 330 00:18:16,374 --> 00:18:19,333 Speaker 2: so you might have your Efilar AZ cream in there 331 00:18:19,333 --> 00:18:22,332 Speaker 2: as well, that's when I would want my antioxidant on. 332 00:18:22,563 --> 00:18:25,494 Speaker 2: First, because that one, you need to penetrate deeply, you 333 00:18:25,494 --> 00:18:28,494 Speaker 2: want to protect your skin, then I'd put my AZ 334 00:18:28,494 --> 00:18:32,213 Speaker 2: cream on after that, and then my SPPF's it. Now 335 00:18:32,213 --> 00:18:34,973 Speaker 2: you can put a moisturizer, that would be, that would 336 00:18:34,973 --> 00:18:36,453 Speaker 2: be it. I was, I was gonna say you can 337 00:18:36,453 --> 00:18:38,764 Speaker 2: use a moisturizer as well if your skin needs it. 338 00:18:38,853 --> 00:18:41,333 Speaker 2: A lot of people don't realize that most SPF is 339 00:18:41,333 --> 00:18:45,034 Speaker 2: in a moisturizer base, it's in an emollient hydrating base. 340 00:18:45,504 --> 00:18:47,583 Speaker 2: So if you're using SPF every day in the morning, 341 00:18:47,664 --> 00:18:50,543 Speaker 2: which you should be, you don't have to put a 342 00:18:50,544 --> 00:18:54,463 Speaker 2: moisturizer on in between, just depends on your skin and 343 00:18:54,463 --> 00:18:56,053 Speaker 2: what kind of feel you like. 344 00:18:56,463 --> 00:18:59,583 Speaker 1: How long roughly would you usually wait between the retinol 345 00:18:59,583 --> 00:19:02,424 Speaker 1: and then whatever next step you're doing? Really, 346 00:19:02,463 --> 00:19:04,583 Speaker 2: you don't have to wait a long time. I always 347 00:19:04,583 --> 00:19:06,983 Speaker 2: say in an ideal world, you, you do something in between, 348 00:19:07,063 --> 00:19:07,303 Speaker 2: so I'm. 349 00:19:07,384 --> 00:19:10,303 Speaker 2: I put my vitamin C on, and then I brush 350 00:19:10,303 --> 00:19:12,654 Speaker 2: my teeth, and then I put my something on, and 351 00:19:12,654 --> 00:19:14,784 Speaker 2: then I brush my hair. So I kind of try 352 00:19:14,784 --> 00:19:17,384 Speaker 2: and do something in between that's, that's useful, and I 353 00:19:17,384 --> 00:19:20,063 Speaker 2: don't feel like I'm waiting for anything. So long as 354 00:19:20,063 --> 00:19:23,983 Speaker 2: you've absorbed it all in and, you know, rubbed it 355 00:19:23,983 --> 00:19:26,614 Speaker 2: so you can't feel that product on the surface anymore, 356 00:19:26,904 --> 00:19:29,323 Speaker 2: you can follow up pretty quickly if you're in a rush. 357 00:19:34,774 --> 00:19:39,333 Speaker 1: We are headed into summer, what are your absolute non-negotiable 358 00:19:39,333 --> 00:19:42,754 Speaker 1: skincare rules? Obviously SPF aside. 359 00:19:43,254 --> 00:19:47,654 Speaker 2: That's my only non-negotiable skincare rule. To be honest, the 360 00:19:47,654 --> 00:19:50,494 Speaker 2: other thing for me, I love antioxidants, I love to 361 00:19:50,494 --> 00:19:54,093 Speaker 2: use them in the morning, in particular, under my sun 362 00:19:54,093 --> 00:19:58,053 Speaker 2: protection because they are going to neutralize some of, 363 00:19:58,134 --> 00:20:01,203 Speaker 2: Those free radicals and the damage that's going on from, 364 00:20:01,453 --> 00:20:04,733 Speaker 2: you know, eating too much sugar and being, you know, 365 00:20:04,853 --> 00:20:10,013 Speaker 2: in other environmental pollutants, your metabolism, all the things that 366 00:20:10,014 --> 00:20:12,774 Speaker 2: are going on in your skin, if we can neutralize 367 00:20:12,774 --> 00:20:15,374 Speaker 2: some of those free radicals, then they do less damage 368 00:20:15,374 --> 00:20:18,533 Speaker 2: to your skin. So, that's how they, you know, slow 369 00:20:18,534 --> 00:20:21,473 Speaker 2: down aging in the most basic of ways, so, 370 00:20:21,874 --> 00:20:23,794 Speaker 2: That's very important for me. 371 00:20:24,044 --> 00:20:24,683 Speaker 1: Apart 372 00:20:24,683 --> 00:20:27,914 Speaker 1: from everything that we've sort of discussed up till now, 373 00:20:28,073 --> 00:20:32,433 Speaker 1: as a dermatologist, what are some non-negotiable products or steps 374 00:20:32,433 --> 00:20:34,774 Speaker 1: in your own routine? So 375 00:20:34,774 --> 00:20:38,943 Speaker 2: other things that I love are peptides. There's lots of 376 00:20:38,943 --> 00:20:40,353 Speaker 2: different peptides, they work. 377 00:20:40,779 --> 00:20:44,978 Speaker 2: signaling molecules to, you know, help, um, tell our skin 378 00:20:44,978 --> 00:20:49,379 Speaker 2: how to behave, can help reduce fine lines, stimulate collagen, 379 00:20:49,769 --> 00:20:54,338 Speaker 2: improve hydration, improve skin function in multiple different ways, and 380 00:20:54,338 --> 00:20:59,098 Speaker 2: I do think that they are a key ingredient for anti-aging. 381 00:20:59,693 --> 00:21:03,573 Speaker 2: Otherwise, I think just really good barrier protection, we haven't 382 00:21:03,573 --> 00:21:07,853 Speaker 2: really discussed what that means, and really, for me, it's 383 00:21:07,853 --> 00:21:13,534 Speaker 2: about sealing in all my actives, but also helping add 384 00:21:13,534 --> 00:21:16,414 Speaker 2: some of those ingredients back into the skin that can 385 00:21:16,414 --> 00:21:20,453 Speaker 2: be stripped away like ceramides and fatty acids, cholesterol, as 386 00:21:20,453 --> 00:21:22,494 Speaker 2: I said earlier, the bonds between, 387 00:21:22,919 --> 00:21:26,869 Speaker 2: All our skin cells are made of these lipids, and 388 00:21:26,928 --> 00:21:32,098 Speaker 2: if we actually use lipids onto the surface of the skin, 389 00:21:32,328 --> 00:21:34,428 Speaker 2: it kind of seals it in a little bit like 390 00:21:34,438 --> 00:21:37,208 Speaker 2: mortar around bricks. It kind of just seals all the 391 00:21:37,208 --> 00:21:40,239 Speaker 2: cracks and makes that a watertight wall, whereas if you 392 00:21:40,239 --> 00:21:42,909 Speaker 2: tried to build your wall with just bricks and no mortar, 393 00:21:43,129 --> 00:21:45,708 Speaker 2: it's not going to keep the water in or out. 394 00:21:46,303 --> 00:21:50,103 Speaker 2: So, barrier protection is really important, and it means that 395 00:21:50,103 --> 00:21:52,614 Speaker 2: I can push some of my actives from time to 396 00:21:52,614 --> 00:21:57,244 Speaker 2: time a little bit harder without causing the inflammation and irritation. So, 397 00:21:57,303 --> 00:22:01,494 Speaker 2: Ciccolast B5 balm is my absolute go to. Anytime I cause, 398 00:22:01,583 --> 00:22:04,364 Speaker 2: you know, overdo it a bit, that goes straight on. 399 00:22:04,664 --> 00:22:06,624 Speaker 2: It's an excellent barrier protection. 400 00:22:07,124 --> 00:22:09,443 Speaker 2: It's one of my favorites, but I think it's just 401 00:22:09,443 --> 00:22:14,024 Speaker 2: about being sensible, and there's two real keys for me. 402 00:22:14,164 --> 00:22:17,244 Speaker 2: One is consistency. I think one of the biggest problems 403 00:22:17,244 --> 00:22:21,754 Speaker 2: out there is FOMO, you know, trying everything new we see, 404 00:22:21,963 --> 00:22:23,203 Speaker 2: wanting to do what you, 405 00:22:23,384 --> 00:22:25,603 Speaker 2: Friends doing or what you've seen on social media or 406 00:22:25,603 --> 00:22:27,933 Speaker 2: what you saw when you walked into the, you know, 407 00:22:28,183 --> 00:22:30,624 Speaker 2: beauty store and thinking, I want this, I want that, 408 00:22:30,703 --> 00:22:33,703 Speaker 2: and switching and changing between products all the time rather 409 00:22:33,703 --> 00:22:36,414 Speaker 2: than saying, what does my skin need, what are my goals, 410 00:22:36,424 --> 00:22:39,374 Speaker 2: and how am I going to get there over long-term. 411 00:22:39,823 --> 00:22:43,624 Speaker 2: So consistency is absolute key, and then, you know, that 412 00:22:43,624 --> 00:22:46,264 Speaker 2: minimalism we did talk about. You 413 00:22:46,264 --> 00:22:51,384 Speaker 1: mentionedicoplas B5, which is a beautiful segue into my very 414 00:22:51,384 --> 00:22:52,263 Speaker 1: last question. 415 00:22:53,203 --> 00:22:55,603 Speaker 1: I've always said that I just, this is a product 416 00:22:55,603 --> 00:22:58,473 Speaker 1: that people just need to have in their cabinet on-hand, 417 00:22:58,563 --> 00:23:02,842 Speaker 1: I say. It is such a cult product. Why is 418 00:23:02,843 --> 00:23:05,364 Speaker 1: it so cult, why is it so amazing, why does 419 00:23:05,364 --> 00:23:06,203 Speaker 1: everyone need it? 420 00:23:06,683 --> 00:23:09,634 Speaker 2: I would say it's a cult product because it can 421 00:23:09,634 --> 00:23:14,044 Speaker 2: be used for so many different things, and it is 422 00:23:14,044 --> 00:23:18,044 Speaker 2: tolerated by pretty much everybody. We use it a lot 423 00:23:18,044 --> 00:23:21,443 Speaker 2: post procedure, so people who have had procedures in clinic, 424 00:23:21,603 --> 00:23:25,463 Speaker 2: it speeds up healing and is obviously a very gentle 425 00:23:25,963 --> 00:23:29,164 Speaker 2: barrier protection for people who actually have a, a compromised 426 00:23:29,164 --> 00:23:30,784 Speaker 2: barrier caused by us. 427 00:23:31,483 --> 00:23:38,103 Speaker 2: Helps soothe inflammation, soothe irritated skin, improve, you know, dry skin, 428 00:23:38,364 --> 00:23:40,683 Speaker 2: and so it can be just used in so many 429 00:23:40,683 --> 00:23:45,683 Speaker 2: different situations, whether it's an active inflammatory skin condition like 430 00:23:45,794 --> 00:23:46,544 Speaker 2: eczemas or. 431 00:23:47,693 --> 00:23:51,154 Speaker 2: rosacea, it can be used for bits of dry skin 432 00:23:51,154 --> 00:23:54,593 Speaker 2: that annoy you, like dry elbows and cuticles, and it 433 00:23:54,593 --> 00:23:58,073 Speaker 2: can be used post procedure, it can be used post sunburn, 434 00:23:58,114 --> 00:24:00,703 Speaker 2: it can be used when you've used too many actives, 435 00:24:00,713 --> 00:24:02,154 Speaker 2: like I'm always using it. 436 00:24:02,664 --> 00:24:04,343 Speaker 2: I love it on a plane, I do a lot 437 00:24:04,343 --> 00:24:07,664 Speaker 2: of travel and the moisture just gets literally sucked out 438 00:24:07,664 --> 00:24:10,183 Speaker 2: of your skin into the very dry environment, so I'm 439 00:24:10,183 --> 00:24:14,703 Speaker 2: just like, plastering sicker plast on, and it's amazing to 440 00:24:14,703 --> 00:24:18,203 Speaker 2: keep my skin hydrated and protected in dry environments. 441 00:24:18,774 --> 00:24:23,103 Speaker 2: So, it's just a multi-purpose ingredient or product, I think, 442 00:24:23,174 --> 00:24:27,213 Speaker 2: and that's why it's so popular, because it's uh, you know, 443 00:24:27,294 --> 00:24:28,333 Speaker 2: you can't really go wrong with 444 00:24:28,333 --> 00:24:28,634 Speaker 2: it. 445 00:24:28,744 --> 00:24:30,693 Speaker 1: Yeah, that's such a good way to put it, you 446 00:24:30,693 --> 00:24:33,014 Speaker 1: literally can't, you could use it on whatever and just, well, 447 00:24:33,213 --> 00:24:36,213 Speaker 1: see if it works, cos it probably will. Yeah. 448 00:24:37,164 --> 00:24:39,374 Speaker 1: Doctor Kara, thank you so much. This is what the 449 00:24:39,374 --> 00:24:43,244 Speaker 1: Eubies want, a clear breakdown of the no-nonsense history and 450 00:24:43,244 --> 00:24:46,263 Speaker 1: science behind a brand that really does so much more 451 00:24:46,264 --> 00:24:49,293 Speaker 1: than just sell skincare. Eubies, if you loved this chat 452 00:24:49,294 --> 00:24:51,703 Speaker 1: and you want more skin goodness, make sure you're following 453 00:24:51,703 --> 00:24:54,654 Speaker 1: us on TikTok and Instagram at You beauty pod, so 454 00:24:54,654 --> 00:24:56,773 Speaker 1: you never miss a thing. Thank you so much for 455 00:24:56,774 --> 00:24:59,353 Speaker 1: listening to the formula. We will catch you next time.