WEBVTT - Pro surfer Laura Enever on what it takes to ride the mega waves

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<v Speaker 1>Oh, hello, welcome to Healthy Ish. Thanks for joining us

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<v Speaker 1>on this daily podcast from Body and Soul. I'm your

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<v Speaker 1>host Felicity Hally. Today's guest is pretty freaking inspiring. In fact,

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<v Speaker 1>she just set a world record for the biggest paddle

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<v Speaker 1>waved ever served by a woman. Pretty impressive, right. It

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<v Speaker 1>is Australian pro serfer Laura en of Us. She joins

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<v Speaker 1>us in the studio to discuss what it takes to

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<v Speaker 1>get her body and mind ready to ride the massive waves.

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<v Speaker 1>Make sure you're listening to our sister pod, Extra Healthy Ish,

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<v Speaker 1>where she shares more about how she embraces fear she

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<v Speaker 1>leans into it. Oh that is also a very inspiring chat. Alurrah,

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to Healthy Ish.

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<v Speaker 2>Thank you for having me.

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<v Speaker 1>Felicity, Oh, nice to do well be here after you

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<v Speaker 1>just stepped off a plane.

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<v Speaker 2>I know, I was just saying to you, I'm just like,

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<v Speaker 2>thank you God.

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<v Speaker 3>The jet lag from Europe is like you're up early

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<v Speaker 3>and buzzing in the morning and you know, crash by

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<v Speaker 3>like four pm. So I'm buzzing because usually I feel

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<v Speaker 3>like I'm quite It takes me a while to get

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<v Speaker 3>up in the morning, which is surprising being a surfer.

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<v Speaker 1>That is yes, very surprising to hear. Now you would

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<v Speaker 1>just crowned Female Surfer of the Year at the twenty

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<v Speaker 1>twenty four Surf A Big Wave Challenge Awards. I mean,

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<v Speaker 1>congratulations they tell us the story behind this award.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh gosh, I actually kind of even believe it. Honestly.

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<v Speaker 3>It's been such a wild journey and I feel like,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, at the start of my career, if someone

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<v Speaker 3>had told me, you know, you do seven years on

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<v Speaker 3>the World Tour and then leave it all and go

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<v Speaker 3>be a big wave surfer and just then, you know,

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<v Speaker 3>break a world record for the biggest way paddled and

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<v Speaker 3>then when Surf of the Year, I just would be like,

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<v Speaker 3>you're joking like this, I don't know, There's just no way.

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<v Speaker 2>I think. It's just it. You know.

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<v Speaker 3>It makes me really proud just seeing how far I've

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<v Speaker 3>come and just as I've believed in myself as I've

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<v Speaker 3>been on this journey, just kind of what doors have

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<v Speaker 3>opened up and what I've been able to, like, what

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<v Speaker 3>goal I've been able to Just I don't know, I

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<v Speaker 3>feel like I never thought I was going to surf

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<v Speaker 3>these types of waves.

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<v Speaker 2>I thought I was going to surf like kind of

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<v Speaker 2>semi big waves, but then.

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<v Speaker 1>It's just when we talk about a big wave, what, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>size is that And you were the first woman to

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<v Speaker 1>do it, to paddle in.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, well not not the first woman to paddle in,

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<v Speaker 3>but just like I was. It's just the biggest measured

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<v Speaker 3>wave that's been paddled in by a woman. But there's

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<v Speaker 3>been amazing big waves like female surfers in the past

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<v Speaker 3>that have, you know, especially in Hawaii. You know, it's

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<v Speaker 3>kind of the birthplace of big wave surfing, and there's

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<v Speaker 3>always been amazing how big it was the one you did,

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<v Speaker 3>So the wave that I paddled into was forty three

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<v Speaker 3>point six feet tall or thirteen point three meters, So

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<v Speaker 3>it's like, yeah, it was just it was a monster.

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<v Speaker 3>It was so it was so massive, and I was yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>out that that day with my good friend full Listy

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<v Speaker 3>Palmitive had on and yeah, I think, oh she was there, Yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>she was out there with me that day. We've we've

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<v Speaker 3>decided to sort of team up and just really like

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<v Speaker 3>go on this big wave journey together, which has been

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<v Speaker 3>amazing because you know, it's such a male dominated sport

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<v Speaker 3>and for so many years, I literally just felt like

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<v Speaker 3>I had imposter syndrome, like around these men just being like, gosh,

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<v Speaker 3>I definitely don't have like your muscle legs or like

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<v Speaker 3>I don't have you know, Like it was just easy

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<v Speaker 3>for me to feel like I wasn't strong enough to

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<v Speaker 3>be in this world. And I think, yeah, the last

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<v Speaker 3>few years has just made me realize that I can,

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<v Speaker 3>like I don't need to be look a certain way

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<v Speaker 3>to be able to catch these waves and do it.

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<v Speaker 2>It's yeah, so it's been really cool.

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<v Speaker 1>What does it take to write a big wave in

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<v Speaker 1>terms of physically, I mean, you just said you don't

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<v Speaker 1>feel as strong enough as the men, but you are totally.

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<v Speaker 3>And I've always been a strong paddler, Like I used

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<v Speaker 3>to do nippers when I was a kid, and I

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<v Speaker 3>used to go to State Titles and Aussies for paddling,

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<v Speaker 3>and so I feel like I've always been a confident paddler.

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<v Speaker 3>And I think when you're out in these big waves

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<v Speaker 3>and you're using literally your two arms to get into

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<v Speaker 3>the wave, it's all about positioning, timing, and you know

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<v Speaker 3>how quickly and well you can paddling to these waves.

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<v Speaker 3>And I think that's where I found my strength in

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<v Speaker 3>knowing that I'm a confident paddler, and just when you're

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<v Speaker 3>out there, you know you're out in mother nature, and

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<v Speaker 3>you don't know when these waves are going to come.

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<v Speaker 3>You only just have these people that are like one

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<v Speaker 3>hundred or so meters away in a boat whistling when

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<v Speaker 3>there's like a massive set looming you can't see if

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<v Speaker 3>you can't see these lumps, but sometimes you can't really tell.

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<v Speaker 3>You'll see them at last minute. You start scratching out

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<v Speaker 3>the back and it's all about positioning, positioning yourself in

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<v Speaker 3>this huge lineup, and you've got these waves that have

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<v Speaker 3>been generated by a storm, like thousands of cormeters away

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<v Speaker 3>that have just that have marching through, and so you

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<v Speaker 3>have to paddle as fast as that wave is moving

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<v Speaker 3>to get into it.

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<v Speaker 2>And that's the hardest part.

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<v Speaker 3>You probably try to paddle for about fifty waves like

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<v Speaker 3>more the whole session. Like you could be out there

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<v Speaker 3>for four hours and not catch a wave.

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<v Speaker 1>But when you were paddling into the big one, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>did you appreciate that it was so big? Or did you?

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah?

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<v Speaker 1>Where was your mindset at?

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<v Speaker 3>So basically that session, me and me and my friend

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<v Speaker 3>Flick had been We've been out there for an hour

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<v Speaker 3>and a half, right, And sometimes you're out in these

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<v Speaker 3>big wave sessions for like hours and hours, like even

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<v Speaker 3>half a day, and you might not even catch a

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<v Speaker 3>wave because you're kind of like playing cat and mouse

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<v Speaker 3>trying not to get one like break on your head,

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<v Speaker 3>like trying to not be too far in and not

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<v Speaker 3>be too far out, just.

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<v Speaker 2>In the perfect spot.

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<v Speaker 3>And I had kind of positioned myself a bit away

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<v Speaker 3>from the crowd and just just how this like feeling

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<v Speaker 3>like just be like I just feel like I need

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<v Speaker 3>to sit over there. And then I've paddled over there,

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<v Speaker 3>and I swear it was like ten minutes later this

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<v Speaker 3>wave just popped up and it was it was.

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<v Speaker 2>The biggest wave that I had seen that day, but

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<v Speaker 2>it was it.

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<v Speaker 3>Just felt like I was in the perfect spot for it,

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<v Speaker 3>and I literally just went and like go turn around.

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<v Speaker 3>I was in such a perfect position that I only

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<v Speaker 3>had to take two paddles and I felt it pick

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<v Speaker 3>me up and I could just ride down the face

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<v Speaker 3>of it. And everyone else was a bit further in,

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<v Speaker 3>so they were scratching over it to not get caught out.

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<v Speaker 2>What emotions were you feeling, Oh, it's just.

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<v Speaker 3>I just remember thinking like go and just like, do

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<v Speaker 3>not hold back. And then when I took off and

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<v Speaker 3>got to my feet, I looked down and just remember thinking,

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<v Speaker 3>this is the biggest wave I've ever been on for

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<v Speaker 3>absolutely sure.

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<v Speaker 2>Were you scared or were you were you more?

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<v Speaker 1>Was it more exhilarating or what it was?

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<v Speaker 2>It was scary.

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<v Speaker 3>But I think all the fear in big wave serving,

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<v Speaker 3>I think comes, you know, like all around to the waves.

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<v Speaker 3>But then when you decide to go on the wave,

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<v Speaker 3>like the only thing you can think about is committing

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<v Speaker 3>to it. And if you have any other like fear

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<v Speaker 3>or thought like or doubt, it's just you know, that's

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<v Speaker 3>when I don't know, you just need to commit. And

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<v Speaker 3>so I was like, you're going commit, and I was

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<v Speaker 3>just I remember looking down the face of this wave

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<v Speaker 3>and just like saying to myself, make it to the

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<v Speaker 3>bottom of this thing.

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<v Speaker 2>And I made it to the bottom, and I.

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<v Speaker 3>Remember looking up and seeing this huge like it was

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<v Speaker 3>like a apartment building when you yes.

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<v Speaker 1>So when it so, does it come crashing over?

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah?

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<v Speaker 3>So it actually came and crashed and it landed like

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<v Speaker 3>behind me, and I ended up getting sort of exploded

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<v Speaker 3>out and upwards. But yeah, in big wave surfing, it's

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<v Speaker 3>kind of you know, it's all about making that drop

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<v Speaker 3>and get into the bottom and you've you've ridden the wave,

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<v Speaker 3>and so yeah, like the Guinness World Records and WSL

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<v Speaker 3>they yeah, I said that that was. They acknowledged it

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<v Speaker 3>and said that was the biggest wave written by a woman,

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<v Speaker 3>So yeah, it was.

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<v Speaker 2>It was pretty awesome. And the funniest thing about that story.

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<v Speaker 3>Is that same day there was a huge big like event.

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<v Speaker 3>I was in Hawaii and the Eddie IKW event, which

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<v Speaker 3>is like one of the most prestigious big wave events,

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<v Speaker 3>was happening like two commonters away. Why I was ulternate

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<v Speaker 3>that day, so they told me to come and stay

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<v Speaker 3>and stay on the beach and I was like, you

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<v Speaker 3>know what, I don't want to sit on the beach

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<v Speaker 3>and wait for someone to get hurt. I'm going to

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<v Speaker 3>I was like, this is perfect. Like the conditions that

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<v Speaker 3>day it was like the biggest best swell in like

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<v Speaker 3>a decade. They think with no wind, So I don't know.

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<v Speaker 3>For me, I just feel like, if I was going

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<v Speaker 3>to catch the best way of my life, you need

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<v Speaker 3>no wind because you're not It's just another element you

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<v Speaker 3>don't have to battle yep, And so.

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<v Speaker 2>I was like, I'm going surfing.

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<v Speaker 3>And then so I caught this wave and didn't think

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<v Speaker 3>anyone saw it.

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<v Speaker 2>I wentnie and I was just buzzying.

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<v Speaker 3>I saw some friends on the beach and I was like,

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<v Speaker 3>I just didn't think anyone even saw this wave and

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<v Speaker 3>or even took a foot photograph. And then four days

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<v Speaker 3>later I got an Instagram message from a photographer who

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<v Speaker 3>was like, I shot your wave, and I was like,

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<v Speaker 3>oh my gosh, that's so cool.

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<v Speaker 2>I'd love to see it.

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<v Speaker 3>And he sent me the photo and just wrote underneath it,

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<v Speaker 3>I think this is the biggest wave ever surfed by

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<v Speaker 3>a woman, I ever paddled into by a woman. And yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>I was just like, oh my gosh. I saw the

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<v Speaker 3>photo and I couldn't believe it was me.

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<v Speaker 2>I was just like this little speck with this huge

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<v Speaker 2>wave behind me.

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<v Speaker 3>Portugal next, Yeah, I mean, I'd loved I just got

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<v Speaker 3>home from Portugal from the awards over there, and yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>I'd love to I'd love to try surf Nazarei one day.

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<v Speaker 3>It's it's its own beast, and it's a different type

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<v Speaker 3>of surfing. It's toe surfing, like the pinnacle. I think

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<v Speaker 3>Nazaree is the pinnacle. It's it's all mostly about toe

0:09:10.679 --> 0:09:12.319
<v Speaker 3>surfing there, so you need a team, you need a

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<v Speaker 3>jet ski to get in. But you and I think,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, you've got to learn a lot more about

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<v Speaker 3>that team tactic of having the jet skis. And I

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<v Speaker 3>think if you've got to get a hole down there,

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<v Speaker 3>it's going to be pretty gnarly because you can get

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<v Speaker 3>washed into the rocks. So yeah, there's a lot of

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<v Speaker 3>things about Nazaree that definitely scare the crap out of me.

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<v Speaker 1>But for me that I especially think for you, you'll do

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<v Speaker 1>it anyway.

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<v Speaker 3>I know, Yeah, I think yeah, me and me and

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<v Speaker 3>Flick Wi tried. We want to do it for sure together.

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<v Speaker 3>But yeah, my main goal is still to get back

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<v Speaker 3>to Hawaii. And now I'm invited into that event, the

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<v Speaker 3>Eddiik event, and I'm not an alternate anymore. I'm like

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<v Speaker 3>properly in the event, and so I'm just like just

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<v Speaker 3>hoping that it gets to gets to run this year.

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<v Speaker 3>They have to wait for a big enough swell like

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<v Speaker 3>that last one, and sometimes it takes like a few

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<v Speaker 3>years for that to come. So I'm just like, I

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<v Speaker 3>hope this year.

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<v Speaker 2>Is the year.

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<v Speaker 1>Enjoy all the fanfare from your big win and thank

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<v Speaker 1>you for coming on.

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<v Speaker 2>Thank you, Felicity.

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<v Speaker 1>I'd just like to add that Laurie is so petite,

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<v Speaker 1>and when she was talking about, you know, paddling in

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<v Speaker 1>her arms and dropping into this biggest wave, I just thought, Wow. Yeah. Anyway,

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<v Speaker 1>I hope you got a lot out of this chat.

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<v Speaker 1>I sure did. I found her incredibly inspiring and hey,

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<v Speaker 1>nothing's too small for Laura. Anyway. If you did enjoy this,

0:10:33.679 --> 0:10:36.680
<v Speaker 1>tell Us rate and review this episode, subscribed to this

0:10:36.760 --> 0:10:38.960
<v Speaker 1>podcast of course. If you have an idea for an

0:10:39.040 --> 0:10:41.760
<v Speaker 1>upcoming up something before Christmas, someone you would like to

0:10:41.800 --> 0:10:45.000
<v Speaker 1>hear from, just dm me at Felicity Harley. Across social media,

0:10:45.080 --> 0:10:47.600
<v Speaker 1>make sure you are following Body and Soul on social media.

0:10:47.640 --> 0:10:49.600
<v Speaker 1>Body and sooul dot com dot you is also the

0:10:49.640 --> 0:10:51.760
<v Speaker 1>place to go for more info. Grab our print edition,

0:10:51.760 --> 0:10:54.199
<v Speaker 1>which is out in your local Sunday paper and until tomorrow,

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<v Speaker 1>and stay healthy ish