WEBVTT - How the Power of the Waves Saved These Surfers

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<v Speaker 1>We'd like to acknowledge that traditional custodians of the land

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<v Speaker 1>on which this podcast was produced, the Galligall people of

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<v Speaker 1>the orination. We pay our respects to Elder's past and present.

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<v Speaker 2>Hi, and here we're taking a short break and we'll

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<v Speaker 2>be back soon with some more incredible stories. In the meantime,

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<v Speaker 2>I wanted to reflect on some of the inspirational guests

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<v Speaker 2>we've had on head Game this year. In this episode,

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<v Speaker 2>you'll hear from Owen Right, Lane, Beachley, and Blaky Johnston,

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<v Speaker 2>all surfing legends with truly incredible mindsets. First up, Olympid

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<v Speaker 2>surfer Owen Wright. Owen was at the top of his

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<v Speaker 2>game when a traumatic accident completely turned his world upside down.

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<v Speaker 3>I felt invincible and this ocean saw me completely and

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<v Speaker 3>it just pinpointed me and swatted me down. Man, I

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<v Speaker 3>overlooked a scenario that was really dangerous and instead of

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<v Speaker 3>chucking my board and diving diving deep, I let, like,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, like the size of a two story plus

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<v Speaker 3>built like wave, just lean straight on me, just detonate

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<v Speaker 3>straight on me, explode me.

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<v Speaker 4>So what were you meant to do? So the wave

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<v Speaker 4>comes up and what you duck? Diving you're supposed to.

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<v Speaker 3>You're supposed to bail in those situations, right, So you

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<v Speaker 3>think it's.

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<v Speaker 4>Too late to get too late to get out of

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<v Speaker 4>the way.

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<v Speaker 5>You just you can't.

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<v Speaker 3>You can't get around the wave. So you're supposed to

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<v Speaker 3>dive to the bottom. So you get down meters to

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<v Speaker 3>get out of the way, and you can kind of

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<v Speaker 3>it's a bit safer down there. I decided to duck dive,

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<v Speaker 3>which I'm going to go on like two foot under

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<v Speaker 3>the water. If that foot, I'm on a big board,

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<v Speaker 3>just pushing it down about this far under and then

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<v Speaker 3>I have like two stories of water, just stricken.

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<v Speaker 4>You didn't go deep enough.

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<v Speaker 3>I didn't go deep enough.

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<v Speaker 4>And where you're just thinking of I've done this before before.

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<v Speaker 3>I'll be right, and this lack of lack of judgment, implacency,

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<v Speaker 3>fully complacent. Man just overlooked, I know, just and the

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<v Speaker 3>thing just detonated me, shook the life out of me.

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<v Speaker 3>I had what they call like well, I had a

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<v Speaker 3>tb iron and a severe concussion. But the type of

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<v Speaker 3>concussion I had wasn't from like blunt force trauma. It

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<v Speaker 3>was from like a what the doctor in hospital said,

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<v Speaker 3>like a blast my head looked like a blast victim

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<v Speaker 3>from their war vets. That they see is that I

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<v Speaker 3>got what they call shaken baby syndrome essentially, and it

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<v Speaker 3>just like shook my head so hard that it had

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<v Speaker 3>all these bruises and contusions on each side of my

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<v Speaker 3>brain where it just got bounced off each side.

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<v Speaker 4>And this was the washing machine like effect on the

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<v Speaker 4>washing machine wave.

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<v Speaker 3>Yeah, under the wave, and I was just completely ragged old. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 3>just basically shook the shook the living daylights out one wave,

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<v Speaker 3>one wave.

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<v Speaker 4>Yeah, Yeah, When do you realize you're in trouble?

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<v Speaker 5>Do you?

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<v Speaker 4>When do you it happen so quick? When do you

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<v Speaker 4>think I've left up here?

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<v Speaker 3>There's a moment in time where I don't, I can't

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<v Speaker 3>full it was just fully black. Then there's there's a

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<v Speaker 3>period of time where I remember being conscious but like

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<v Speaker 3>not able to move or anything, and like just I

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<v Speaker 3>was still way out the back. It was just I

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<v Speaker 3>had probably ten of those waves land one after another

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<v Speaker 3>on top of it. It was so yeah, it was

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<v Speaker 3>a consecutive. It was like one and then two and

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<v Speaker 3>three and then four and five. It was like a

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<v Speaker 3>multiple wave set, just like and because I was the

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<v Speaker 3>way the lineup works. I was deep. I was out

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<v Speaker 3>and deep, and the water rest comes down the reef

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<v Speaker 3>and pushes you in. So each wave that hit me,

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<v Speaker 3>I was still in the line of fire because I

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<v Speaker 3>was just not in I was just slightly down the

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<v Speaker 3>reef further where the wave was still like landing and dumping.

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<v Speaker 3>So I got each wave the hallway down and then

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<v Speaker 3>just like.

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<v Speaker 4>You got churned and munched up and in the washin

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<v Speaker 4>ten waves. Yeah, yeah, one after.

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<v Speaker 3>The other, one after the other. I remember just like

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<v Speaker 3>just just holding on in my mind, just going and

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<v Speaker 3>just stays just like trying to stay conscious.

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<v Speaker 4>Do you think you're going to die at that stage?

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<v Speaker 6>Yeah?

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<v Speaker 4>Yeah, there's a point where you're just like, I'm done.

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<v Speaker 3>Oh yeah, I was everyone.

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<v Speaker 2>Coming on done.

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<v Speaker 3>I don't know, I'm like, it just felt like I

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<v Speaker 3>was done already.

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<v Speaker 2>Owen's story of recovery and his journey back to his

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<v Speaker 2>board is inspiring.

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<v Speaker 4>If you'd like to hear the full.

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<v Speaker 2>Episode, I'll link it in the show notes. My next

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<v Speaker 2>guest is Lane Beachley. Lane's path to success hasn't been

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<v Speaker 2>an easy one. The seven time World surfing legend embraced

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<v Speaker 2>setbacks and use them to propel her growth. In this

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<v Speaker 2>special interview, she opened up about the moment she learned

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<v Speaker 2>she was adopted after losing her mother at just seven

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<v Speaker 2>years old.

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<v Speaker 5>Yeah. Well, the thing was like, didn't know I'd lost

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<v Speaker 5>too mothers at that stage. I only know i'd lost one.

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<v Speaker 5>And then when my dad decided to tell me I

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<v Speaker 5>was adopted, I was eight years of age, and that

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<v Speaker 5>felt that was the biggest capitalist moment in my life

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<v Speaker 5>because I felt so rejected in that moment, irrespective of

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<v Speaker 5>how beautiful he was in communicating his truth to me

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<v Speaker 5>around you know, I'm your baby girl. He would say,

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<v Speaker 5>you're my baby girl, and you belong here and we

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<v Speaker 5>love you, and I've always wanted a girl within this family.

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<v Speaker 5>But you're not a blood relation. And the minute I

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<v Speaker 5>heard that, I don't belong here. I am not from

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<v Speaker 5>this family. I am not of blood relation. So where

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<v Speaker 5>do I come from? Who do I belong to? Why

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<v Speaker 5>am I here? Where is my mother? And why didn't

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<v Speaker 5>you want me?

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<v Speaker 4>Yes? Do you think you were too young to take

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<v Speaker 4>that information in?

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<v Speaker 5>We're never too young to take in information. Ever, we're

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<v Speaker 5>never too young to take in honest communication and truth,

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<v Speaker 5>and you know we do it. I see a lot

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<v Speaker 5>of parents say or do or behave in a way

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<v Speaker 5>to protect their children, but all the doing is literally

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<v Speaker 5>protecting their own emotional state. You know, you're not protecting

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<v Speaker 5>your children by lying to them, You're protecting yourself.

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<v Speaker 2>And you said that that was a huge moment in

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<v Speaker 2>your life, right, yeah, huge moment? Yeah, and how do

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<v Speaker 2>you deal with that moving forward?

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<v Speaker 5>Set a goal to become a world champion?

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<v Speaker 4>Do you know what? Wow?

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<v Speaker 2>What? And what a goal to set yourself down. It's

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<v Speaker 2>bizarre because when people go through a lot of trauma,

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<v Speaker 2>they go through you know, traumatic experiences or experiences that

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<v Speaker 2>really change change their life in the moment, a purpose

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<v Speaker 2>and a goal, you know, and then we always I

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<v Speaker 2>know it sounds a bit cliche, but it really does

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<v Speaker 2>help you focus that aggression, that frustration, that misunderstanding onto

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<v Speaker 2>something and direct it onto a goal or onto a

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<v Speaker 2>purpose that you're truly passionate about. And it's people like

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<v Speaker 2>yourselves that have been through that that end up high

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<v Speaker 2>achievers because every because they've managed to bundle it all

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<v Speaker 2>together and go, right, I've got this purpose. Now, I've

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<v Speaker 2>got this goal that I need to and I'm going

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<v Speaker 2>to do it for my mom. I'm going to do

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<v Speaker 2>it for the family. I'm going to do it forever,

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<v Speaker 2>whatever the reason is for that purpose. When was the

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<v Speaker 2>first time that you realize that, actually, I'm looking good

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<v Speaker 2>at what I do and I'm going to make a

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<v Speaker 2>living out this and I am actually going to become

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<v Speaker 2>a world champion.

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<v Speaker 5>Well, firstly, I want to reflect on what you just

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<v Speaker 5>said in regards to channeling your energy, because it's one

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<v Speaker 5>hundred percent right. We choose to channel our energy, our focus,

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<v Speaker 5>our emotions into something. I'd say the most successful people

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<v Speaker 5>and the biggest misfits have all been through trauma. But

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<v Speaker 5>it's how we choose to respond to it. And some

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<v Speaker 5>of us choose to become victims while others choose to

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<v Speaker 5>become victors. And I was really fortunate that I had

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<v Speaker 5>the I don't know if you've read Malcolm Gladwell's book

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<v Speaker 5>Outliers that he refers to three things that contribute to success,

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<v Speaker 5>and number one is an opportunity, number two is ability,

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<v Speaker 5>and number three is an arbitrary advantage. And if I

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<v Speaker 5>think about how those three things played into my ultimate success,

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<v Speaker 5>I mean I had the opportunit unity to grow up

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<v Speaker 5>with a surf loving family. I had the ability to

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<v Speaker 5>stand on a surfboard, and I had the arbitrary advantage

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<v Speaker 5>to be close to Manly Beach, so I had consistent

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<v Speaker 5>access to the environment that I loved to be in.

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<v Speaker 5>So those things really contributed or gave me a head

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<v Speaker 5>start to the success that I ultimately craved.

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<v Speaker 2>In twenty twenty three, Blaky Johnston achieved one unbelievable goal

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<v Speaker 2>the Sydney Local Surf continuously for forty hours to raise

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<v Speaker 2>money for youth mental health initiatives. In this conversation, Blaki

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<v Speaker 2>revealed just how mentally, physically and emotionally draining those two

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<v Speaker 2>days were and how he managed to get through it.

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<v Speaker 6>It was about accepting every moment for what it was.

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<v Speaker 6>You know, it's dealing with the ocean. It's always it's

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<v Speaker 6>constantly changing, like life is too right it was. It

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<v Speaker 6>was accepting of everything that came across my way this

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<v Speaker 6>particular event in particular, I focused on the outcome, you know,

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<v Speaker 6>I focused on believing that I'd never had as much

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<v Speaker 6>self belief through that process, through anything, through anything I'd

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<v Speaker 6>ever done, obviously, through my challenges that I'd set myself

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<v Speaker 6>and life challenge with luck with my dad, I've I've

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<v Speaker 6>been through quite a bit and in to this event,

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<v Speaker 6>I really I visualized and believed that I was doing

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<v Speaker 6>it for the right reasons, and I actually manifested the

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<v Speaker 6>moments beforehand. I was running past the alley every day,

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<v Speaker 6>imagining this huge crowd that was there and sort of

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<v Speaker 6>gone a hold whatever, but starting off to just imagine

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<v Speaker 6>this huge crowds there, I really feel it, but then

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<v Speaker 6>ended up running past stopping, breathing in, feeling in the

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<v Speaker 6>moments and visualizing my this moment actually happening, feeling it,

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<v Speaker 6>not just thinking this thing is going to happen. So

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<v Speaker 6>everything that I was doing, liding that and every surf

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<v Speaker 6>I go for, every time I was down the beach,

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<v Speaker 6>the intention for everything was towards this goal. So I

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<v Speaker 6>was you know, I was thinking connected with them, being

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<v Speaker 6>connected with the moment. So I got to these I

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<v Speaker 6>got to this one part in particular of the surf

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<v Speaker 6>where it was the hardest. My eyes were just on

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<v Speaker 6>I had to close them most of the surf because

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<v Speaker 6>the lights were brighter than I thought they were going

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<v Speaker 6>to be, because the surf was bigger than I thought

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<v Speaker 6>it was going to be. For the first ten hours

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<v Speaker 6>really so beautiful day. So the sunrise came up and

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<v Speaker 6>my eyes were already cooked. On the first day, and

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<v Speaker 6>you know, I was riding a wave. You know, no

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<v Speaker 6>one really. I surfed every wave with intention, you know,

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<v Speaker 6>I surfed it as a surf. I didn't flick off

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<v Speaker 6>to get numbers. The wave had a section for a turn.

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<v Speaker 6>I was going to surf the wave properly.

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<v Speaker 5>You know.

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<v Speaker 6>I wore one wet suit. I rode one board, just

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<v Speaker 6>to do it authentic and do it. And when I

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<v Speaker 6>hit the water, I was full of self left so

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<v Speaker 6>much saw of self leaf that I wasn't really listening to.

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<v Speaker 6>There was a doctor on the bitch, slow down, don't

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<v Speaker 6>ride the waves into the short breaker using too much.

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<v Speaker 6>You've still got thirty five hours ago. No matter what

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<v Speaker 6>I was going to I was accepting whatever I was

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<v Speaker 6>going to go through, it was gonna it was going

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<v Speaker 6>to be in front of me and I'll get through it.

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<v Speaker 6>So yeah, it just it was a lot harder from

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<v Speaker 6>earlier on, you know, from that first the first morning

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<v Speaker 6>was just the surf was bigger. I did five hundred

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<v Speaker 6>duck dives. When you know when you go to the

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<v Speaker 6>waved about Yeah, between three hundred and fifty and four

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<v Speaker 6>hundred duck dives going through. I'd rode two hundred and

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<v Speaker 6>twenty ways by the time the sun came up, so

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<v Speaker 6>hurt Town came in really early.

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<v Speaker 2>It was like, don't appreciate that you're you're in a

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<v Speaker 2>year you're duck being on the water and you know,

0:11:34.040 --> 0:11:38.280
<v Speaker 2>keeping yourself in that area, keeping yourself, you know, safe,

0:11:38.320 --> 0:11:38.760
<v Speaker 2>so you're not.

0:11:39.120 --> 0:11:40.240
<v Speaker 4>That's a surface.

0:11:41.440 --> 0:11:44.920
<v Speaker 6>One positioning and ideally a world record. It's small and

0:11:44.960 --> 0:11:47.160
<v Speaker 6>it's clean, and it's your mate through out there with

0:11:47.160 --> 0:11:50.400
<v Speaker 6>you for support or they're there for water safety. But

0:11:50.480 --> 0:11:53.440
<v Speaker 6>this was big surf, Like the beaches would have been

0:11:53.480 --> 0:11:57.280
<v Speaker 6>closed and no easy places to get out, so my

0:11:57.280 --> 0:11:59.200
<v Speaker 6>friends would come out and they just get smashed around

0:11:59.200 --> 0:12:01.720
<v Speaker 6>and go in. So I was working really, really hard.

0:12:01.760 --> 0:12:04.440
<v Speaker 6>So I'm proud of that that I you know, I

0:12:04.480 --> 0:12:06.760
<v Speaker 6>did it. I didn't hand it to me, the ocean

0:12:06.760 --> 0:12:08.920
<v Speaker 6>didn't hand it to me. I had to really work

0:12:08.960 --> 0:12:10.840
<v Speaker 6>for those waves and those times that I got in

0:12:10.880 --> 0:12:13.240
<v Speaker 6>and the fact that I surfed every wave and every

0:12:13.240 --> 0:12:16.120
<v Speaker 6>section I could was something that you know, I'm proud

0:12:16.160 --> 0:12:16.959
<v Speaker 6>of as a surfer too.

0:12:17.000 --> 0:12:18.959
<v Speaker 4>You know, you felt like you completed It wasn't just

0:12:19.000 --> 0:12:19.760
<v Speaker 4>doing a world record.

0:12:19.760 --> 0:12:22.880
<v Speaker 6>I was doing it properly, surfing challenging waves, doing it.

0:12:23.679 --> 0:12:26.200
<v Speaker 2>World record wasn't was almost out of your head because

0:12:26.240 --> 0:12:28.280
<v Speaker 2>you know, if you wanted to go for the world work,

0:12:28.480 --> 0:12:30.640
<v Speaker 2>you'd hit the wave, come off, hit, They'll go.

0:12:30.600 --> 0:12:33.320
<v Speaker 6>Back do it in y key key thirty five degree water.

0:12:33.440 --> 0:12:36.680
<v Speaker 6>But this was about, you know, proving to the people

0:12:37.040 --> 0:12:39.439
<v Speaker 6>that everything had build up around the event. There was

0:12:39.640 --> 0:12:41.240
<v Speaker 6>people who was one hundred and fifty people there at

0:12:41.240 --> 0:12:42.760
<v Speaker 6>one am in the morning when I was paddling out.

0:12:42.760 --> 0:12:45.400
<v Speaker 6>You know, so I have a responsibility, like I always field,

0:12:45.960 --> 0:12:48.559
<v Speaker 6>to be accountable to my word and do it properly.

0:12:48.600 --> 0:12:50.480
<v Speaker 6>And I know a lot of kids were there watching

0:12:50.559 --> 0:12:53.280
<v Speaker 6>and it was getting broadcasted, you know, globally.

0:12:52.880 --> 0:12:55.760
<v Speaker 4>So it was a huge event. Yeah, it was an.

0:12:55.720 --> 0:12:58.640
<v Speaker 6>Opportunity to show you know that is do what you

0:12:58.640 --> 0:13:02.400
<v Speaker 6>say you're going to do, be accountable to you, and

0:13:02.440 --> 0:13:03.960
<v Speaker 6>you can do the things that you set out to do.

0:13:05.080 --> 0:13:09.679
<v Speaker 2>Hear these incredibly moving stories from Owen Right, Lane Beachley,

0:13:10.000 --> 0:13:12.000
<v Speaker 2>and Blakey Johnston in full.

0:13:12.200 --> 0:13:12.560
<v Speaker 3>Now.

0:13:13.160 --> 0:13:16.760
<v Speaker 2>I've linked the episode details in the show notes. Thank

0:13:16.800 --> 0:13:19.400
<v Speaker 2>you so much for listening to Headgame. If you enjoyed

0:13:19.400 --> 0:13:22.960
<v Speaker 2>this episode, make sure you're subscribed and leave me a review.

0:13:23.040 --> 0:13:27.880
<v Speaker 4>Wherever you're listening, I'm add Middleton. See you again next time.