1
00:00:00,320 --> 00:00:03,400
Speaker 1: We'd like to acknowledge that traditional custodians of the land

2
00:00:03,520 --> 00:00:06,840
Speaker 1: on which this podcast was produced, the Galligall people of

3
00:00:06,920 --> 00:00:10,440
Speaker 1: the orination. We pay our respects to Elder's past and present.

4
00:00:12,360 --> 00:00:15,840
Speaker 2: Hi, and here we're taking a short break and we'll

5
00:00:15,880 --> 00:00:19,919
Speaker 2: be back soon with some more incredible stories. In the meantime,

6
00:00:20,040 --> 00:00:23,160
Speaker 2: I wanted to reflect on some of the inspirational guests

7
00:00:23,520 --> 00:00:27,160
Speaker 2: we've had on head Game this year. In this episode,

8
00:00:27,320 --> 00:00:31,760
Speaker 2: you'll hear from Owen Right, Lane, Beachley, and Blaky Johnston,

9
00:00:32,280 --> 00:00:37,520
Speaker 2: all surfing legends with truly incredible mindsets. First up, Olympid

10
00:00:37,560 --> 00:00:41,239
Speaker 2: surfer Owen Wright. Owen was at the top of his

11
00:00:41,320 --> 00:00:45,680
Speaker 2: game when a traumatic accident completely turned his world upside down.

12
00:00:46,400 --> 00:00:52,360
Speaker 3: I felt invincible and this ocean saw me completely and

13
00:00:52,400 --> 00:00:57,080
Speaker 3: it just pinpointed me and swatted me down. Man, I

14
00:00:57,120 --> 00:01:03,400
Speaker 3: overlooked a scenario that was really dangerous and instead of

15
00:01:03,480 --> 00:01:06,760
Speaker 3: chucking my board and diving diving deep, I let, like,

16
00:01:07,160 --> 00:01:10,279
Speaker 3: you know, like the size of a two story plus

17
00:01:10,280 --> 00:01:14,840
Speaker 3: built like wave, just lean straight on me, just detonate

18
00:01:14,920 --> 00:01:16,240
Speaker 3: straight on me, explode me.

19
00:01:17,080 --> 00:01:18,920
Speaker 4: So what were you meant to do? So the wave

20
00:01:18,959 --> 00:01:21,280
Speaker 4: comes up and what you duck? Diving you're supposed to.

21
00:01:21,440 --> 00:01:24,319
Speaker 3: You're supposed to bail in those situations, right, So you

22
00:01:24,319 --> 00:01:25,120
Speaker 3: think it's.

23
00:01:24,840 --> 00:01:26,280
Speaker 4: Too late to get too late to get out of

24
00:01:26,319 --> 00:01:26,560
Speaker 4: the way.

25
00:01:26,560 --> 00:01:27,240
Speaker 5: You just you can't.

26
00:01:27,280 --> 00:01:29,520
Speaker 3: You can't get around the wave. So you're supposed to

27
00:01:29,600 --> 00:01:32,959
Speaker 3: dive to the bottom. So you get down meters to

28
00:01:33,000 --> 00:01:35,080
Speaker 3: get out of the way, and you can kind of

29
00:01:35,240 --> 00:01:38,280
Speaker 3: it's a bit safer down there. I decided to duck dive,

30
00:01:38,319 --> 00:01:40,920
Speaker 3: which I'm going to go on like two foot under

31
00:01:40,920 --> 00:01:43,520
Speaker 3: the water. If that foot, I'm on a big board,

32
00:01:44,160 --> 00:01:46,680
Speaker 3: just pushing it down about this far under and then

33
00:01:46,680 --> 00:01:49,320
Speaker 3: I have like two stories of water, just stricken.

34
00:01:49,680 --> 00:01:50,560
Speaker 4: You didn't go deep enough.

35
00:01:50,560 --> 00:01:51,960
Speaker 3: I didn't go deep enough.

36
00:01:51,840 --> 00:01:54,880
Speaker 4: And where you're just thinking of I've done this before before.

37
00:01:54,960 --> 00:02:00,600
Speaker 3: I'll be right, and this lack of lack of judgment, implacency,

38
00:02:01,000 --> 00:02:05,960
Speaker 3: fully complacent. Man just overlooked, I know, just and the

39
00:02:06,040 --> 00:02:08,880
Speaker 3: thing just detonated me, shook the life out of me.

40
00:02:09,919 --> 00:02:11,640
Speaker 3: I had what they call like well, I had a

41
00:02:11,680 --> 00:02:15,520
Speaker 3: tb iron and a severe concussion. But the type of

42
00:02:15,520 --> 00:02:18,920
Speaker 3: concussion I had wasn't from like blunt force trauma. It

43
00:02:19,000 --> 00:02:22,560
Speaker 3: was from like a what the doctor in hospital said,

44
00:02:22,560 --> 00:02:24,840
Speaker 3: like a blast my head looked like a blast victim

45
00:02:25,240 --> 00:02:27,920
Speaker 3: from their war vets. That they see is that I

46
00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:30,880
Speaker 3: got what they call shaken baby syndrome essentially, and it

47
00:02:31,040 --> 00:02:34,280
Speaker 3: just like shook my head so hard that it had

48
00:02:34,320 --> 00:02:37,080
Speaker 3: all these bruises and contusions on each side of my

49
00:02:37,120 --> 00:02:39,120
Speaker 3: brain where it just got bounced off each side.

50
00:02:39,280 --> 00:02:41,440
Speaker 4: And this was the washing machine like effect on the

51
00:02:41,520 --> 00:02:42,480
Speaker 4: washing machine wave.

52
00:02:42,600 --> 00:02:47,400
Speaker 3: Yeah, under the wave, and I was just completely ragged old. Yeah,

53
00:02:47,520 --> 00:02:51,080
Speaker 3: just basically shook the shook the living daylights out one wave,

54
00:02:51,200 --> 00:02:51,880
Speaker 3: one wave.

55
00:02:51,720 --> 00:02:54,320
Speaker 4: Yeah, Yeah, When do you realize you're in trouble?

56
00:02:54,360 --> 00:02:54,480
Speaker 5: Do you?

57
00:02:54,520 --> 00:02:57,040
Speaker 4: When do you it happen so quick? When do you

58
00:02:57,080 --> 00:02:59,320
Speaker 4: think I've left up here?

59
00:03:00,040 --> 00:03:02,240
Speaker 3: There's a moment in time where I don't, I can't

60
00:03:02,680 --> 00:03:05,640
Speaker 3: full it was just fully black. Then there's there's a

61
00:03:05,639 --> 00:03:08,960
Speaker 3: period of time where I remember being conscious but like

62
00:03:09,080 --> 00:03:13,480
Speaker 3: not able to move or anything, and like just I

63
00:03:13,520 --> 00:03:16,120
Speaker 3: was still way out the back. It was just I

64
00:03:16,160 --> 00:03:20,320
Speaker 3: had probably ten of those waves land one after another

65
00:03:20,919 --> 00:03:23,240
Speaker 3: on top of it. It was so yeah, it was

66
00:03:23,240 --> 00:03:26,120
Speaker 3: a consecutive. It was like one and then two and

67
00:03:26,360 --> 00:03:29,560
Speaker 3: three and then four and five. It was like a

68
00:03:29,680 --> 00:03:33,920
Speaker 3: multiple wave set, just like and because I was the

69
00:03:33,960 --> 00:03:36,800
Speaker 3: way the lineup works. I was deep. I was out

70
00:03:36,840 --> 00:03:39,960
Speaker 3: and deep, and the water rest comes down the reef

71
00:03:40,000 --> 00:03:42,680
Speaker 3: and pushes you in. So each wave that hit me,

72
00:03:42,800 --> 00:03:46,080
Speaker 3: I was still in the line of fire because I

73
00:03:46,120 --> 00:03:48,280
Speaker 3: was just not in I was just slightly down the

74
00:03:48,320 --> 00:03:53,440
Speaker 3: reef further where the wave was still like landing and dumping.

75
00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:55,720
Speaker 3: So I got each wave the hallway down and then

76
00:03:55,840 --> 00:03:56,400
Speaker 3: just like.

77
00:03:56,680 --> 00:03:59,880
Speaker 4: You got churned and munched up and in the washin

78
00:04:00,560 --> 00:04:03,160
Speaker 4: ten waves. Yeah, yeah, one after.

79
00:04:02,960 --> 00:04:05,040
Speaker 3: The other, one after the other. I remember just like

80
00:04:05,320 --> 00:04:08,920
Speaker 3: just just holding on in my mind, just going and

81
00:04:09,040 --> 00:04:11,920
Speaker 3: just stays just like trying to stay conscious.

82
00:04:12,040 --> 00:04:14,400
Speaker 4: Do you think you're going to die at that stage?

83
00:04:14,440 --> 00:04:14,640
Speaker 6: Yeah?

84
00:04:14,840 --> 00:04:17,760
Speaker 4: Yeah, there's a point where you're just like, I'm done.

85
00:04:18,040 --> 00:04:20,440
Speaker 3: Oh yeah, I was everyone.

86
00:04:20,200 --> 00:04:21,000
Speaker 2: Coming on done.

87
00:04:21,120 --> 00:04:23,520
Speaker 3: I don't know, I'm like, it just felt like I

88
00:04:23,560 --> 00:04:24,560
Speaker 3: was done already.

89
00:04:25,320 --> 00:04:28,400
Speaker 2: Owen's story of recovery and his journey back to his

90
00:04:28,480 --> 00:04:29,760
Speaker 2: board is inspiring.

91
00:04:30,320 --> 00:04:31,800
Speaker 4: If you'd like to hear the full.

92
00:04:31,640 --> 00:04:35,280
Speaker 2: Episode, I'll link it in the show notes. My next

93
00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:39,880
Speaker 2: guest is Lane Beachley. Lane's path to success hasn't been

94
00:04:39,880 --> 00:04:44,040
Speaker 2: an easy one. The seven time World surfing legend embraced

95
00:04:44,040 --> 00:04:48,560
Speaker 2: setbacks and use them to propel her growth. In this

96
00:04:48,640 --> 00:04:51,839
Speaker 2: special interview, she opened up about the moment she learned

97
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:55,679
Speaker 2: she was adopted after losing her mother at just seven

98
00:04:55,800 --> 00:04:56,320
Speaker 2: years old.

99
00:04:58,800 --> 00:05:00,960
Speaker 5: Yeah. Well, the thing was like, didn't know I'd lost

100
00:05:01,040 --> 00:05:03,240
Speaker 5: too mothers at that stage. I only know i'd lost one.

101
00:05:03,560 --> 00:05:05,479
Speaker 5: And then when my dad decided to tell me I

102
00:05:05,480 --> 00:05:07,479
Speaker 5: was adopted, I was eight years of age, and that

103
00:05:07,680 --> 00:05:10,279
Speaker 5: felt that was the biggest capitalist moment in my life

104
00:05:10,360 --> 00:05:15,480
Speaker 5: because I felt so rejected in that moment, irrespective of

105
00:05:15,720 --> 00:05:19,440
Speaker 5: how beautiful he was in communicating his truth to me

106
00:05:20,080 --> 00:05:22,760
Speaker 5: around you know, I'm your baby girl. He would say,

107
00:05:22,800 --> 00:05:25,360
Speaker 5: you're my baby girl, and you belong here and we

108
00:05:25,400 --> 00:05:27,640
Speaker 5: love you, and I've always wanted a girl within this family.

109
00:05:27,680 --> 00:05:29,479
Speaker 5: But you're not a blood relation. And the minute I

110
00:05:29,520 --> 00:05:32,719
Speaker 5: heard that, I don't belong here. I am not from

111
00:05:32,720 --> 00:05:35,159
Speaker 5: this family. I am not of blood relation. So where

112
00:05:35,240 --> 00:05:37,159
Speaker 5: do I come from? Who do I belong to? Why

113
00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:41,400
Speaker 5: am I here? Where is my mother? And why didn't

114
00:05:41,440 --> 00:05:41,840
Speaker 5: you want me?

115
00:05:42,480 --> 00:05:45,240
Speaker 4: Yes? Do you think you were too young to take

116
00:05:45,240 --> 00:05:46,040
Speaker 4: that information in?

117
00:05:46,120 --> 00:05:49,719
Speaker 5: We're never too young to take in information. Ever, we're

118
00:05:49,720 --> 00:05:53,040
Speaker 5: never too young to take in honest communication and truth,

119
00:05:53,880 --> 00:05:55,600
Speaker 5: and you know we do it. I see a lot

120
00:05:55,640 --> 00:05:58,159
Speaker 5: of parents say or do or behave in a way

121
00:05:58,200 --> 00:06:00,760
Speaker 5: to protect their children, but all the doing is literally

122
00:06:00,800 --> 00:06:03,600
Speaker 5: protecting their own emotional state. You know, you're not protecting

123
00:06:03,600 --> 00:06:05,960
Speaker 5: your children by lying to them, You're protecting yourself.

124
00:06:06,160 --> 00:06:08,359
Speaker 2: And you said that that was a huge moment in

125
00:06:08,360 --> 00:06:12,800
Speaker 2: your life, right, yeah, huge moment? Yeah, and how do

126
00:06:12,880 --> 00:06:14,160
Speaker 2: you deal with that moving forward?

127
00:06:14,480 --> 00:06:16,040
Speaker 5: Set a goal to become a world champion?

128
00:06:17,360 --> 00:06:19,200
Speaker 4: Do you know what? Wow?

129
00:06:19,520 --> 00:06:21,960
Speaker 2: What? And what a goal to set yourself down. It's

130
00:06:22,000 --> 00:06:24,080
Speaker 2: bizarre because when people go through a lot of trauma,

131
00:06:24,240 --> 00:06:28,760
Speaker 2: they go through you know, traumatic experiences or experiences that

132
00:06:28,839 --> 00:06:33,640
Speaker 2: really change change their life in the moment, a purpose

133
00:06:33,760 --> 00:06:35,919
Speaker 2: and a goal, you know, and then we always I

134
00:06:35,960 --> 00:06:38,880
Speaker 2: know it sounds a bit cliche, but it really does

135
00:06:38,960 --> 00:06:43,360
Speaker 2: help you focus that aggression, that frustration, that misunderstanding onto

136
00:06:43,400 --> 00:06:46,200
Speaker 2: something and direct it onto a goal or onto a

137
00:06:46,240 --> 00:06:49,599
Speaker 2: purpose that you're truly passionate about. And it's people like

138
00:06:49,640 --> 00:06:52,040
Speaker 2: yourselves that have been through that that end up high

139
00:06:52,080 --> 00:06:55,640
Speaker 2: achievers because every because they've managed to bundle it all

140
00:06:55,680 --> 00:06:58,520
Speaker 2: together and go, right, I've got this purpose. Now, I've

141
00:06:58,560 --> 00:07:00,640
Speaker 2: got this goal that I need to and I'm going

142
00:07:00,680 --> 00:07:02,120
Speaker 2: to do it for my mom. I'm going to do

143
00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:03,839
Speaker 2: it for the family. I'm going to do it forever,

144
00:07:04,000 --> 00:07:06,839
Speaker 2: whatever the reason is for that purpose. When was the

145
00:07:06,839 --> 00:07:11,520
Speaker 2: first time that you realize that, actually, I'm looking good

146
00:07:11,520 --> 00:07:14,680
Speaker 2: at what I do and I'm going to make a

147
00:07:14,720 --> 00:07:16,480
Speaker 2: living out this and I am actually going to become

148
00:07:16,520 --> 00:07:17,400
Speaker 2: a world champion.

149
00:07:18,640 --> 00:07:20,800
Speaker 5: Well, firstly, I want to reflect on what you just

150
00:07:20,840 --> 00:07:23,240
Speaker 5: said in regards to channeling your energy, because it's one

151
00:07:23,320 --> 00:07:27,000
Speaker 5: hundred percent right. We choose to channel our energy, our focus,

152
00:07:27,040 --> 00:07:30,960
Speaker 5: our emotions into something. I'd say the most successful people

153
00:07:31,040 --> 00:07:34,240
Speaker 5: and the biggest misfits have all been through trauma. But

154
00:07:34,320 --> 00:07:36,600
Speaker 5: it's how we choose to respond to it. And some

155
00:07:36,640 --> 00:07:39,200
Speaker 5: of us choose to become victims while others choose to

156
00:07:39,240 --> 00:07:42,320
Speaker 5: become victors. And I was really fortunate that I had

157
00:07:42,400 --> 00:07:45,440
Speaker 5: the I don't know if you've read Malcolm Gladwell's book

158
00:07:45,800 --> 00:07:50,040
Speaker 5: Outliers that he refers to three things that contribute to success,

159
00:07:50,080 --> 00:07:53,080
Speaker 5: and number one is an opportunity, number two is ability,

160
00:07:53,080 --> 00:07:56,000
Speaker 5: and number three is an arbitrary advantage. And if I

161
00:07:56,040 --> 00:07:59,200
Speaker 5: think about how those three things played into my ultimate success,

162
00:07:59,200 --> 00:08:01,720
Speaker 5: I mean I had the opportunit unity to grow up

163
00:08:01,920 --> 00:08:04,880
Speaker 5: with a surf loving family. I had the ability to

164
00:08:04,920 --> 00:08:07,440
Speaker 5: stand on a surfboard, and I had the arbitrary advantage

165
00:08:07,480 --> 00:08:09,920
Speaker 5: to be close to Manly Beach, so I had consistent

166
00:08:10,000 --> 00:08:12,440
Speaker 5: access to the environment that I loved to be in.

167
00:08:12,640 --> 00:08:15,440
Speaker 5: So those things really contributed or gave me a head

168
00:08:15,480 --> 00:08:18,560
Speaker 5: start to the success that I ultimately craved.

169
00:08:27,520 --> 00:08:32,240
Speaker 2: In twenty twenty three, Blaky Johnston achieved one unbelievable goal

170
00:08:32,880 --> 00:08:36,840
Speaker 2: the Sydney Local Surf continuously for forty hours to raise

171
00:08:36,880 --> 00:08:41,840
Speaker 2: money for youth mental health initiatives. In this conversation, Blaki

172
00:08:42,000 --> 00:08:46,800
Speaker 2: revealed just how mentally, physically and emotionally draining those two

173
00:08:46,880 --> 00:08:50,360
Speaker 2: days were and how he managed to get through it.

174
00:08:50,360 --> 00:08:53,240
Speaker 6: It was about accepting every moment for what it was.

175
00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:57,240
Speaker 6: You know, it's dealing with the ocean. It's always it's

176
00:08:57,320 --> 00:09:01,240
Speaker 6: constantly changing, like life is too right it was. It

177
00:09:01,360 --> 00:09:04,520
Speaker 6: was accepting of everything that came across my way this

178
00:09:04,720 --> 00:09:11,080
Speaker 6: particular event in particular, I focused on the outcome, you know,

179
00:09:11,120 --> 00:09:13,160
Speaker 6: I focused on believing that I'd never had as much

180
00:09:13,160 --> 00:09:16,520
Speaker 6: self belief through that process, through anything, through anything I'd

181
00:09:16,520 --> 00:09:19,040
Speaker 6: ever done, obviously, through my challenges that I'd set myself

182
00:09:19,559 --> 00:09:23,280
Speaker 6: and life challenge with luck with my dad, I've I've

183
00:09:23,280 --> 00:09:27,640
Speaker 6: been through quite a bit and in to this event,

184
00:09:28,040 --> 00:09:34,520
Speaker 6: I really I visualized and believed that I was doing

185
00:09:34,559 --> 00:09:40,520
Speaker 6: it for the right reasons, and I actually manifested the

186
00:09:40,600 --> 00:09:44,000
Speaker 6: moments beforehand. I was running past the alley every day,

187
00:09:44,000 --> 00:09:48,640
Speaker 6: imagining this huge crowd that was there and sort of

188
00:09:48,720 --> 00:09:50,960
Speaker 6: gone a hold whatever, but starting off to just imagine

189
00:09:50,960 --> 00:09:52,600
Speaker 6: this huge crowds there, I really feel it, but then

190
00:09:53,040 --> 00:09:56,120
Speaker 6: ended up running past stopping, breathing in, feeling in the

191
00:09:56,120 --> 00:09:59,320
Speaker 6: moments and visualizing my this moment actually happening, feeling it,

192
00:09:59,400 --> 00:10:01,200
Speaker 6: not just thinking this thing is going to happen. So

193
00:10:01,280 --> 00:10:03,040
Speaker 6: everything that I was doing, liding that and every surf

194
00:10:03,080 --> 00:10:04,440
Speaker 6: I go for, every time I was down the beach,

195
00:10:04,720 --> 00:10:07,720
Speaker 6: the intention for everything was towards this goal. So I

196
00:10:07,760 --> 00:10:10,199
Speaker 6: was you know, I was thinking connected with them, being

197
00:10:10,240 --> 00:10:13,320
Speaker 6: connected with the moment. So I got to these I

198
00:10:13,360 --> 00:10:16,280
Speaker 6: got to this one part in particular of the surf

199
00:10:16,320 --> 00:10:18,720
Speaker 6: where it was the hardest. My eyes were just on

200
00:10:19,160 --> 00:10:21,440
Speaker 6: I had to close them most of the surf because

201
00:10:21,800 --> 00:10:23,400
Speaker 6: the lights were brighter than I thought they were going

202
00:10:23,440 --> 00:10:25,680
Speaker 6: to be, because the surf was bigger than I thought

203
00:10:25,679 --> 00:10:27,840
Speaker 6: it was going to be. For the first ten hours

204
00:10:28,240 --> 00:10:30,800
Speaker 6: really so beautiful day. So the sunrise came up and

205
00:10:30,840 --> 00:10:33,520
Speaker 6: my eyes were already cooked. On the first day, and

206
00:10:33,960 --> 00:10:35,760
Speaker 6: you know, I was riding a wave. You know, no

207
00:10:35,880 --> 00:10:38,800
Speaker 6: one really. I surfed every wave with intention, you know,

208
00:10:39,040 --> 00:10:40,600
Speaker 6: I surfed it as a surf. I didn't flick off

209
00:10:40,600 --> 00:10:43,200
Speaker 6: to get numbers. The wave had a section for a turn.

210
00:10:43,240 --> 00:10:44,520
Speaker 6: I was going to surf the wave properly.

211
00:10:44,920 --> 00:10:45,080
Speaker 5: You know.

212
00:10:45,120 --> 00:10:47,280
Speaker 6: I wore one wet suit. I rode one board, just

213
00:10:47,320 --> 00:10:49,000
Speaker 6: to do it authentic and do it. And when I

214
00:10:49,080 --> 00:10:52,480
Speaker 6: hit the water, I was full of self left so

215
00:10:52,600 --> 00:10:55,920
Speaker 6: much saw of self leaf that I wasn't really listening to.

216
00:10:55,920 --> 00:10:58,080
Speaker 6: There was a doctor on the bitch, slow down, don't

217
00:10:58,120 --> 00:10:59,880
Speaker 6: ride the waves into the short breaker using too much.

218
00:11:00,280 --> 00:11:03,000
Speaker 6: You've still got thirty five hours ago. No matter what

219
00:11:03,040 --> 00:11:04,559
Speaker 6: I was going to I was accepting whatever I was

220
00:11:04,559 --> 00:11:06,480
Speaker 6: going to go through, it was gonna it was going

221
00:11:06,480 --> 00:11:08,360
Speaker 6: to be in front of me and I'll get through it.

222
00:11:08,840 --> 00:11:12,040
Speaker 6: So yeah, it just it was a lot harder from

223
00:11:12,080 --> 00:11:14,360
Speaker 6: earlier on, you know, from that first the first morning

224
00:11:14,440 --> 00:11:16,520
Speaker 6: was just the surf was bigger. I did five hundred

225
00:11:16,600 --> 00:11:18,160
Speaker 6: duck dives. When you know when you go to the

226
00:11:18,160 --> 00:11:20,280
Speaker 6: waved about Yeah, between three hundred and fifty and four

227
00:11:20,360 --> 00:11:23,120
Speaker 6: hundred duck dives going through. I'd rode two hundred and

228
00:11:23,160 --> 00:11:24,960
Speaker 6: twenty ways by the time the sun came up, so

229
00:11:25,280 --> 00:11:27,280
Speaker 6: hurt Town came in really early.

230
00:11:27,400 --> 00:11:31,160
Speaker 2: It was like, don't appreciate that you're you're in a

231
00:11:31,240 --> 00:11:33,920
Speaker 2: year you're duck being on the water and you know,

232
00:11:34,040 --> 00:11:38,280
Speaker 2: keeping yourself in that area, keeping yourself, you know, safe,

233
00:11:38,320 --> 00:11:38,760
Speaker 2: so you're not.

234
00:11:39,120 --> 00:11:40,240
Speaker 4: That's a surface.

235
00:11:41,440 --> 00:11:44,920
Speaker 6: One positioning and ideally a world record. It's small and

236
00:11:44,960 --> 00:11:47,160
Speaker 6: it's clean, and it's your mate through out there with

237
00:11:47,160 --> 00:11:50,400
Speaker 6: you for support or they're there for water safety. But

238
00:11:50,480 --> 00:11:53,440
Speaker 6: this was big surf, Like the beaches would have been

239
00:11:53,480 --> 00:11:57,280
Speaker 6: closed and no easy places to get out, so my

240
00:11:57,280 --> 00:11:59,200
Speaker 6: friends would come out and they just get smashed around

241
00:11:59,200 --> 00:12:01,720
Speaker 6: and go in. So I was working really, really hard.

242
00:12:01,760 --> 00:12:04,440
Speaker 6: So I'm proud of that that I you know, I

243
00:12:04,480 --> 00:12:06,760
Speaker 6: did it. I didn't hand it to me, the ocean

244
00:12:06,760 --> 00:12:08,920
Speaker 6: didn't hand it to me. I had to really work

245
00:12:08,960 --> 00:12:10,840
Speaker 6: for those waves and those times that I got in

246
00:12:10,880 --> 00:12:13,240
Speaker 6: and the fact that I surfed every wave and every

247
00:12:13,240 --> 00:12:16,120
Speaker 6: section I could was something that you know, I'm proud

248
00:12:16,160 --> 00:12:16,959
Speaker 6: of as a surfer too.

249
00:12:17,000 --> 00:12:18,959
Speaker 4: You know, you felt like you completed It wasn't just

250
00:12:19,000 --> 00:12:19,760
Speaker 4: doing a world record.

251
00:12:19,760 --> 00:12:22,880
Speaker 6: I was doing it properly, surfing challenging waves, doing it.

252
00:12:23,679 --> 00:12:26,200
Speaker 2: World record wasn't was almost out of your head because

253
00:12:26,240 --> 00:12:28,280
Speaker 2: you know, if you wanted to go for the world work,

254
00:12:28,480 --> 00:12:30,640
Speaker 2: you'd hit the wave, come off, hit, They'll go.

255
00:12:30,600 --> 00:12:33,320
Speaker 6: Back do it in y key key thirty five degree water.

256
00:12:33,440 --> 00:12:36,680
Speaker 6: But this was about, you know, proving to the people

257
00:12:37,040 --> 00:12:39,439
Speaker 6: that everything had build up around the event. There was

258
00:12:39,640 --> 00:12:41,240
Speaker 6: people who was one hundred and fifty people there at

259
00:12:41,240 --> 00:12:42,760
Speaker 6: one am in the morning when I was paddling out.

260
00:12:42,760 --> 00:12:45,400
Speaker 6: You know, so I have a responsibility, like I always field,

261
00:12:45,960 --> 00:12:48,559
Speaker 6: to be accountable to my word and do it properly.

262
00:12:48,600 --> 00:12:50,480
Speaker 6: And I know a lot of kids were there watching

263
00:12:50,559 --> 00:12:53,280
Speaker 6: and it was getting broadcasted, you know, globally.

264
00:12:52,880 --> 00:12:55,760
Speaker 4: So it was a huge event. Yeah, it was an.

265
00:12:55,720 --> 00:12:58,640
Speaker 6: Opportunity to show you know that is do what you

266
00:12:58,640 --> 00:13:02,400
Speaker 6: say you're going to do, be accountable to you, and

267
00:13:02,440 --> 00:13:03,960
Speaker 6: you can do the things that you set out to do.

268
00:13:05,080 --> 00:13:09,679
Speaker 2: Hear these incredibly moving stories from Owen Right, Lane Beachley,

269
00:13:10,000 --> 00:13:12,000
Speaker 2: and Blakey Johnston in full.

270
00:13:12,200 --> 00:13:12,560
Speaker 3: Now.

271
00:13:13,160 --> 00:13:16,760
Speaker 2: I've linked the episode details in the show notes. Thank

272
00:13:16,800 --> 00:13:19,400
Speaker 2: you so much for listening to Headgame. If you enjoyed

273
00:13:19,400 --> 00:13:22,960
Speaker 2: this episode, make sure you're subscribed and leave me a review.

274
00:13:23,040 --> 00:13:27,880
Speaker 4: Wherever you're listening, I'm add Middleton. See you again next time.