WEBVTT - Inside the Mind of the French Spiderman, Alain Robert

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<v Speaker 1>We'd like to acknowledge that traditional custodians of the land

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<v Speaker 1>on which this podcast was produced, the Galligel people of

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<v Speaker 1>the Urination. We pay our respects to Elder's past and present.

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<v Speaker 2>It's March twenty twenty four and we're in Manila. The

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<v Speaker 2>man best known as the French Spider Man has just

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<v Speaker 2>climbed forty seven stories of the GT International Tower. It's

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<v Speaker 2>one of the highest skyscrapers in the Philippines, and Alan

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<v Speaker 2>Robert has scaled the seven hundred and twelve foot building

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<v Speaker 2>without any safety equipment, just a bag of chalk and

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<v Speaker 2>a pair of climbing shoes. He's done it before and

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<v Speaker 2>he'll do it again. With more than one hundred and

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<v Speaker 2>fifty structures under his belt, including the Burj Khalifer, Eiffel

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<v Speaker 2>Tower and the Empire State Building. In the climbing world,

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<v Speaker 2>he's a rock star. More people watched his climb of

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<v Speaker 2>the National Bank of Abu Dhabi than the opening ceremony

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<v Speaker 2>of the Football World Cup Finals. He doesn't see this

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<v Speaker 2>as a sport, but instead a life path. He prepares

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<v Speaker 2>carefully before each ascent, calculating the risks and ensuring his

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<v Speaker 2>mind is totally focused. He must get it right. I'm

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<v Speaker 2>Att Middleton and this is Headgame today, the notorious French

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<v Speaker 2>spider Man undertaking some of the riskiest and most dangerous

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<v Speaker 2>challenges in the world and loving every second of it.

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<v Speaker 2>I am extremely excited right now to be speaking with

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<v Speaker 2>the famous French spider Man, Monsieur Alain Robert.

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<v Speaker 3>Mons only like the Bali who the peer you know.

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<v Speaker 3>I am live in Bali, which I've been leaving for

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<v Speaker 3>eleven years.

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<v Speaker 2>It's a pleasure to meet you, it really is. I'm

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<v Speaker 2>a huge, huge fan myself. I've been following your stuff

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<v Speaker 2>since they dot since you know you you brought the

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<v Speaker 2>world to attention hanging off of structures and buildings. But

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<v Speaker 2>let's get into it first and foremost, Allah, when did

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<v Speaker 2>you start climbing? Did you start climbing the moment you

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<v Speaker 2>know you left your mother's womb? Did you start? Were

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<v Speaker 2>you like a kid that climbed all the time?

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<v Speaker 3>Not exactly like that. Actually my story is more complicated.

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<v Speaker 3>I born as a kid that was afraid of everything,

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<v Speaker 3>that was shy. I was lacking of self confidence and

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<v Speaker 3>I had a dream. I wanted to become courageous.

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<v Speaker 4>So it took me. It took me quite some.

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<v Speaker 3>Time, you know, because at some point I was just thinking,

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<v Speaker 3>what is the meaning of a dream? Is it a

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<v Speaker 3>thing that is just a dream and I forget about it?

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<v Speaker 3>Or shall I try to realize my dream? And then

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<v Speaker 3>I did choose to realize it. So later on I

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<v Speaker 3>got inspired. I saw a movie. It's it's a story

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<v Speaker 3>of the plane who crashed near the top of Mont Blanc.

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<v Speaker 4>Two brothers.

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<v Speaker 3>There are mountaineering climber climbers they are they are climbing

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<v Speaker 3>a steep mountain. And then I've been I've been amazed

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<v Speaker 3>by that, and I got really inspired by that.

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<v Speaker 2>Can you remember your first climb? That the first time

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<v Speaker 2>that you thought, do you know what, I'm actually quite

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<v Speaker 2>good at this and I enjoy it.

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<v Speaker 4>Well.

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<v Speaker 3>Actually that that was even purely by accident, you know.

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<v Speaker 4>I was at school.

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<v Speaker 3>There was a too meeching teacher in a row, and

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<v Speaker 3>then I went home. I realized that I didn't have

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<v Speaker 3>my key. Back in the days, I was living on

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<v Speaker 3>the seventh floor. And then, uh, looks the building was

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<v Speaker 3>going to be easy, which it was, but I climbed

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<v Speaker 3>the seventh story building.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh wow, So that's where it all started. Nothing to

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<v Speaker 2>do with climbing, just you didn't want to be left outside.

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<v Speaker 4>Yeah, more more like by obligation. I did it. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 4>but that was kind of simple.

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<v Speaker 3>It's like going from one hand rails to the next,

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<v Speaker 3>so nothing to do like climbing.

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<v Speaker 4>You know.

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<v Speaker 2>Did you climb that and think, oh I enjoyed that.

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<v Speaker 2>I wasn't really scared And did you get a bit

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<v Speaker 2>of a buz from it?

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<v Speaker 3>Well, definitely, But more like back in the days we

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<v Speaker 3>were talking about more than fifty years ago, I had

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<v Speaker 3>no real option. I was living in France, in the

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<v Speaker 3>middle of nowhere.

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<v Speaker 4>Climbing was not existing.

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<v Speaker 3>I couldn't join the Alpine Club because I was too

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<v Speaker 3>too young.

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<v Speaker 4>So I did start.

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<v Speaker 3>By joining becoming a boy scout, and there I met

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<v Speaker 3>someone that also wanted to climb. So otherwise maybe if

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<v Speaker 3>I had never met that guy.

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<v Speaker 4>I was never going to climb. Ever, I'm not sure.

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<v Speaker 3>You know, sometimes life is taking some you know direction,

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<v Speaker 3>which at the beginning it looks a bit funny.

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<v Speaker 2>Yes, so that yeah, that's that sliding door moment, isn't it.

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<v Speaker 2>So talk me through your first time that you sort

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<v Speaker 2>of realized that this is what you wanted to do.

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<v Speaker 2>You wanted to climb. You that's you know, you were

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<v Speaker 2>passionate about it, you had a message behind it. When

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<v Speaker 2>was the first time that you thought, do you know what,

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<v Speaker 2>I'm really going to make this career?

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<v Speaker 3>I pretty much knew it right away, Like maybe when

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<v Speaker 3>I was twelve or thirteen, I didn't know that one

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<v Speaker 3>day I would be able to make a living from sponsors.

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<v Speaker 3>So I was just thinking more like becoming mountaineering guide.

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<v Speaker 3>You know that kind of people who are making a living,

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<v Speaker 3>they get clients to climb Mont Blanc or that kind

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<v Speaker 3>of stuff.

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<v Speaker 4>So more more more like that.

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<v Speaker 3>And uh and of course when I started to become famous,

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<v Speaker 3>then I've also realized that I could make a very

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<v Speaker 3>good living by just climbing. So instead of teaching, that

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<v Speaker 3>was really climbing for myself.

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<v Speaker 2>That's quite quite a segue. So when did you first

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<v Speaker 2>do your first solo climb?

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<v Speaker 4>Oh? You know, when I was this boy scout.

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<v Speaker 3>I was with a friend, Pierre actually his name, and

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<v Speaker 3>sometimes we were climbing. We were free flowing, you know,

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<v Speaker 3>easy stuff, but you know, uh, one next to each

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<v Speaker 3>other and you know, just doing understand like that.

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<v Speaker 2>Yes, from a young young age, you're always always climbing.

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<v Speaker 2>I was quite similar. You know, when I was young,

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<v Speaker 2>I was climbing around everywhere, climbing buildings, and you know

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<v Speaker 2>I was I went on to do mountaineering, so it's

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<v Speaker 2>a bit different than the military. So it's a bit

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<v Speaker 2>different to your direction. But take me back to that

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<v Speaker 2>first moment you caught the eyes of the world.

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<v Speaker 3>The attention of the world was in ninety four and

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<v Speaker 3>I climbing in Chicago the Accentia Tower. But actually before it,

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<v Speaker 3>my real legacy is on rocks. What I did on

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<v Speaker 3>rocks is far more impressive than what I did in Berlin.

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<v Speaker 2>Took me through that. Alan took me through that.

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<v Speaker 3>People are not really aware because it was before the internet.

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<v Speaker 3>Back in the days that was like only a few

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<v Speaker 3>TV stations, so not much access to the medias.

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<v Speaker 4>Even Climbing Magazine.

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<v Speaker 3>They wanted not to publish me because they just thought

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<v Speaker 3>that what this guy is doing is too dangerous. We

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<v Speaker 3>don't want to show a bad example to our readers,

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<v Speaker 3>so we're only going to post like a small pictures,

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<v Speaker 3>like really something very short. Things has completely shifted when

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<v Speaker 3>Alex o'nald climbed the r Capitan. Yes, suddenly people have

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<v Speaker 3>started to realize that it was possible to do a

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<v Speaker 3>very hard stuff on rocks, which Alexi said it. He

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<v Speaker 3>gave an interview for one of my documentary film in

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<v Speaker 3>twenty twenty and he explained that actually.

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<v Speaker 4>I am the dude, I am the og.

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<v Speaker 3>I am the guy who was free following five firt

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<v Speaker 3>India when he was still a baby. You know, it

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<v Speaker 3>was in nineteen ninety one. But the problem is that,

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<v Speaker 3>of course he knew about this part of my life

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<v Speaker 3>because we met in a film festival in Poland, so

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<v Speaker 3>we knew all about it. I got, I got a

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<v Speaker 3>bigger water back in the days and everything. But the

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<v Speaker 3>thing is most people they didn't really know. Only a

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<v Speaker 3>very small small niche of people were fully aware about it.

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<v Speaker 3>And this is not the way you are making a living.

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<v Speaker 3>This is also not a way that people are ready

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<v Speaker 3>knowing you.

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<v Speaker 4>So it is more.

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<v Speaker 3>Actually, when I shifted onto buildings, and that was the

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<v Speaker 3>right time because what I was doing on rocks was

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<v Speaker 3>so on the edge, so on the cutting edge that

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<v Speaker 3>I couldn't go any further. I was climbing some days.

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<v Speaker 3>I was at fifty to fifty. I was actually the

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<v Speaker 3>first person in the world free following five Indee even Alex.

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<v Speaker 3>He said, he still didn't climb a third Indee free solo.

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<v Speaker 4>Wow.

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<v Speaker 2>So that's why we're having this conversation and.

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<v Speaker 3>We are talking about thirty three years back.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, exactly, nineteen ninety one, nineteen ninety that ever you

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<v Speaker 2>were free climbing, and like you said, you know, free climbing.

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<v Speaker 2>There was no internet back then. There was no exposure.

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<v Speaker 2>You know, it is a very very tiny small community

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<v Speaker 2>that went out what climbing, and you know, there wasn't

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<v Speaker 2>really a known sport, so there was there was no

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<v Speaker 2>way of no one even realizing what you were capable

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<v Speaker 2>of or you know, the outstanding climbs that you were

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<v Speaker 2>doing and how dangerous they were, because there was no

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<v Speaker 2>exposure to it exactly.

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<v Speaker 3>And what was frustrating for me is when finally I

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<v Speaker 3>got access to the mainstream medias when I started climbing buildings,

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<v Speaker 3>I was explaining to the journalist that what I did

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<v Speaker 3>on rocks was insane, and they said, no, on rocks,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, there is a there is a bucket, there

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<v Speaker 3>is other guys who did it, but on buildings only

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<v Speaker 3>one and it's smooth, And.

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<v Speaker 4>So I said it.

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<v Speaker 3>I don't know how many times for like maybe a

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<v Speaker 3>year or two, and then one day I even forgot

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<v Speaker 3>myself that that was my background and that was my legacy.

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<v Speaker 3>It it resurve faces in twenty seventeen when Alex climbed

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<v Speaker 3>the El Capitan.

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<v Speaker 4>Otherwise I have I have simply forgotten.

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<v Speaker 2>It's been submerged by the structures that you've climbed. But

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<v Speaker 2>free climbing, free soloing on rocks is extremely difficult if

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<v Speaker 2>you get that wrong. You know, on buildings you can

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<v Speaker 2>get quite I suppose quite a good handhold, quite a

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<v Speaker 2>good hold. But on rocks sometimes people that realize the

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<v Speaker 2>difficulties of being on your fingers, you know.

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<v Speaker 3>Being oh exactly, this is what people don't realize.

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<v Speaker 4>You know, Climbing on rocks is far more random.

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<v Speaker 3>There is a there is there may be good pockets,

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<v Speaker 3>and there may be you know, like only a single

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<v Speaker 3>finger hole even on one cm pocket. Then suddenly you're

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<v Speaker 3>having a Dino. So you know, by comparison, it's insane.

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<v Speaker 3>As on buildings you can easily understand right away. You know,

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<v Speaker 3>it takes like sometimes one minute and you know, okay,

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<v Speaker 3>I can easily climb that building.

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<v Speaker 2>So why did you transition from free climbing to buildings.

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<v Speaker 2>Where did that come about? How did you make that decision?

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<v Speaker 3>Because I knew that I was going too far away

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<v Speaker 3>on rocks, I nearly fell. I don't know how many

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<v Speaker 3>times I was climbing, you know, some of the routes

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<v Speaker 3>that I climbed back in the days, I was at

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<v Speaker 3>fifty to fifty, So it means that I was never

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<v Speaker 3>sure that I would be finishing the day. And then,

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<v Speaker 3>you know, when I got this proposal to climb and buildings,

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<v Speaker 3>I at first I was perplexed because nobody has ever

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<v Speaker 3>done that before. For these guys are not at least

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<v Speaker 3>they were paying me an ice trip in the US,

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<v Speaker 3>going to New York, Chicago, Dallas and Houston.

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<v Speaker 4>So just thought, well, at the very worst.

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<v Speaker 3>At least I am having ten days a holiday, and

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<v Speaker 3>at the very best, maybe maybe maybe there is still

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<v Speaker 3>something that I could do. And then once I was

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<v Speaker 3>in town, then I realized that wow, there is stuff,

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<v Speaker 3>There is actually a real potential, and I was made.

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<v Speaker 3>I was overly excited. But you know the problem is

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<v Speaker 3>these people they wanted to make it officially, you know, approved,

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<v Speaker 3>but it took them two months before they came back

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<v Speaker 3>to me and they said we tried very hard, you know,

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<v Speaker 3>and all of the buildings that you have spotted, and

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<v Speaker 3>you told us that you could climb it, we cannot

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<v Speaker 3>get a new approval. Then we said, we spoke with

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<v Speaker 3>some lawyers. It seems that it's not a big crime.

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<v Speaker 3>And at the very worst you could learn in jail,

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<v Speaker 3>maybe like up to two weeks, but nothing really serious.

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<v Speaker 4>And then and then I.

0:14:09.679 --> 0:14:11.440
<v Speaker 3>Decided, okay, let's go for it.

0:14:11.960 --> 0:14:15.080
<v Speaker 2>Wow, so you took the opportunity. You thought, do you

0:14:15.080 --> 0:14:18.280
<v Speaker 2>know what, I can travel around the US, I can

0:14:18.320 --> 0:14:21.520
<v Speaker 2>do some cool stuff. Were you excited when they told

0:14:21.520 --> 0:14:25.080
<v Speaker 2>you that you could climb? And maybe maybe you know

0:14:25.200 --> 0:14:28.200
<v Speaker 2>you have got no permits to climb, but climb anyway,

0:14:28.280 --> 0:14:30.720
<v Speaker 2>because if you do, the worst that can happen is

0:14:30.720 --> 0:14:32.360
<v Speaker 2>that you spend a couple of days in prison. Did

0:14:32.360 --> 0:14:33.480
<v Speaker 2>that Did that excite you?

0:14:33.560 --> 0:14:33.760
<v Speaker 4>Yeah?

0:14:33.840 --> 0:14:37.320
<v Speaker 3>Yeah? Well, at the same times, it scires me a

0:14:37.320 --> 0:14:40.440
<v Speaker 3>lot because I was afraid that maybe you know, some

0:14:41.040 --> 0:14:44.400
<v Speaker 3>I don't know, some secuity guys or cups, they may

0:14:44.480 --> 0:14:48.280
<v Speaker 3>try to shoot me. So, you know, I had kind

0:14:48.320 --> 0:14:51.240
<v Speaker 3>of a funny thought on my mind, you know, like

0:14:51.440 --> 0:14:56.160
<v Speaker 3>not being sure that somehow I was very frailed. I

0:14:56.240 --> 0:15:00.800
<v Speaker 3>really wanted to do it. It looks like completely insane.

0:15:01.160 --> 0:15:01.360
<v Speaker 4>You know.

0:15:01.640 --> 0:15:05.000
<v Speaker 3>You get to understand that I had been as far

0:15:05.200 --> 0:15:08.480
<v Speaker 3>as I could go on rocks, So for me, it

0:15:08.720 --> 0:15:14.400
<v Speaker 3>was the perfect transition. It was perfect. Suddenly, you know,

0:15:14.880 --> 0:15:19.520
<v Speaker 3>I was discovering something new. I was discovering, Uh, traveling

0:15:19.560 --> 0:15:24.520
<v Speaker 3>the whole world, meeting people, becoming famous, which is not bad,

0:15:25.080 --> 0:15:29.920
<v Speaker 3>uh going to prison. You know, it was just like

0:15:30.200 --> 0:15:34.720
<v Speaker 3>it was suddenly offering me, you know, a full spectrum

0:15:34.920 --> 0:15:38.880
<v Speaker 3>of everything. And and to be honest with you, I

0:15:39.800 --> 0:15:43.080
<v Speaker 3>really loved it. Now now I started, you know, to

0:15:43.120 --> 0:15:46.280
<v Speaker 3>get you know, I came back on rocks. I am

0:15:46.320 --> 0:15:52.600
<v Speaker 3>no longer performance climber, so I am more like outsider.

0:15:53.200 --> 0:15:55.560
<v Speaker 3>Before I was at my I was at my top,

0:15:55.720 --> 0:15:59.200
<v Speaker 3>so I wanted to push the envelope a bit further

0:15:59.560 --> 0:16:03.120
<v Speaker 3>all the time. But now I have no more ambition,

0:16:03.880 --> 0:16:06.680
<v Speaker 3>only climbing back on rock free solo. And for me,

0:16:06.680 --> 0:16:16.960
<v Speaker 3>it's already insane.

0:16:17.680 --> 0:16:20.200
<v Speaker 2>You had a big accident back in nineteen eighty two,

0:16:20.360 --> 0:16:20.480
<v Speaker 2>was it?

0:16:20.640 --> 0:16:24.480
<v Speaker 3>I fell from twenty meters head first and at the

0:16:24.520 --> 0:16:29.480
<v Speaker 3>bottom of the cliff. It was a limestone slab, so

0:16:29.680 --> 0:16:35.680
<v Speaker 3>meaning both hands they exploded. You can see the shape

0:16:35.960 --> 0:16:40.560
<v Speaker 3>on my hand Wow, that was from the accident. I

0:16:41.320 --> 0:16:48.200
<v Speaker 3>have inherited of a sixty six percent disability mainly located

0:16:48.480 --> 0:16:53.680
<v Speaker 3>on my fingers, on my wrist, on my forearms, on

0:16:53.720 --> 0:16:54.600
<v Speaker 3>my elbows.

0:16:55.480 --> 0:16:57.880
<v Speaker 2>You achieved everything after with those injuries.

0:16:58.000 --> 0:16:59.680
<v Speaker 4>Oh yeah, yeah, meaning what is insane?

0:16:59.720 --> 0:17:03.400
<v Speaker 3>It's nine years later I was the first person in

0:17:03.400 --> 0:17:06.040
<v Speaker 3>the world free following a five thirty in year.

0:17:06.840 --> 0:17:09.920
<v Speaker 2>That is phenomenal, that is, and that's all in free

0:17:09.960 --> 0:17:12.720
<v Speaker 2>solo climbing. See that's what I mean. You had such

0:17:13.240 --> 0:17:18.879
<v Speaker 2>a credible and such an honorable and such a successful

0:17:19.280 --> 0:17:24.000
<v Speaker 2>free climbing career which then has completely disappeared really because

0:17:24.080 --> 0:17:26.560
<v Speaker 2>of your building climate.

0:17:26.440 --> 0:17:32.800
<v Speaker 3>Completely overshadowed all I have done that was insane. And

0:17:33.720 --> 0:17:38.080
<v Speaker 3>of course when I started to move back onto social media,

0:17:38.280 --> 0:17:40.440
<v Speaker 3>then I have understood that I was going to use

0:17:40.480 --> 0:17:45.600
<v Speaker 3>it because I had still plenty of all the footages,

0:17:45.640 --> 0:17:48.719
<v Speaker 3>and then I have started, you know, step by step,

0:17:49.240 --> 0:17:52.640
<v Speaker 3>and now pretty much everyone knows that what I did

0:17:52.680 --> 0:17:57.240
<v Speaker 3>on rocks, especially because Alex Honold he gave a like

0:17:57.520 --> 0:18:01.840
<v Speaker 3>ten minutes interview and he's explaining a lot of things.

0:18:02.240 --> 0:18:07.760
<v Speaker 3>He's explaining, uh that I was in advance uh from

0:18:07.800 --> 0:18:12.120
<v Speaker 3>my time, like what what I was doing so he's

0:18:12.160 --> 0:18:15.240
<v Speaker 3>explaining all of that, and that has helped me a lot.

0:18:15.400 --> 0:18:18.200
<v Speaker 3>You know, now, a lot of people that are like, wow,

0:18:18.280 --> 0:18:20.720
<v Speaker 3>you are you are the you are the the the

0:18:21.080 --> 0:18:23.720
<v Speaker 3>eu og you are you know, you are the number one.

0:18:23.560 --> 0:18:24.320
<v Speaker 4>You are this are that?

0:18:24.560 --> 0:18:26.800
<v Speaker 3>So I don't care because there is no competition in

0:18:26.840 --> 0:18:30.160
<v Speaker 3>between me a lex or Or. There was like only

0:18:30.200 --> 0:18:33.639
<v Speaker 3>a couple of guys who climb very difficult routes in

0:18:33.640 --> 0:18:36.520
<v Speaker 3>the whole world. It's like, yeah, we are, we are,

0:18:36.560 --> 0:18:37.800
<v Speaker 3>we are like five or six.

0:18:38.400 --> 0:18:41.960
<v Speaker 2>That's amazing, That's absolutely amazing. So climbing there's always been

0:18:42.119 --> 0:18:44.440
<v Speaker 2>part of your in your DNA has always been part

0:18:44.440 --> 0:18:47.760
<v Speaker 2>of you. And when you went over to climb structures,

0:18:47.760 --> 0:18:51.000
<v Speaker 2>it was more the opportunity, the excitement. Now talk me

0:18:51.119 --> 0:18:54.560
<v Speaker 2>through the first building that you climbed.

0:18:54.840 --> 0:18:57.359
<v Speaker 4>That that wasn't that was insane.

0:18:56.920 --> 0:19:01.439
<v Speaker 3>Because uh I you know, I remember because on that

0:19:01.600 --> 0:19:05.520
<v Speaker 3>day the film director, he knew that I was going

0:19:05.560 --> 0:19:08.760
<v Speaker 3>to do something illegal, so they put me in a

0:19:08.880 --> 0:19:13.800
<v Speaker 3>nice five star hotel, maybe thinking that it could be

0:19:13.880 --> 0:19:18.160
<v Speaker 3>his last night something like that kind of last yeah,

0:19:18.240 --> 0:19:23.600
<v Speaker 3>he's last dinner. Yeah then, and and I remember because

0:19:24.280 --> 0:19:28.920
<v Speaker 3>I kept on thinking, you know about the potential consequences,

0:19:29.000 --> 0:19:33.320
<v Speaker 3>but also whether I would be capable to climb that

0:19:33.400 --> 0:19:37.679
<v Speaker 3>building or not, because I had zero idea. You know,

0:19:37.800 --> 0:19:41.520
<v Speaker 3>back in the days, this guy, the film director said,

0:19:41.800 --> 0:19:44.480
<v Speaker 3>you cannot go to the building, you cannot touch it,

0:19:44.600 --> 0:19:47.440
<v Speaker 3>you cannot try it, so meaning it's just like, Okay,

0:19:47.560 --> 0:19:51.639
<v Speaker 3>I saw it, that's all I know. So and also

0:19:51.760 --> 0:19:54.760
<v Speaker 3>telling me, oh, in Chicago, you need to be very

0:19:54.800 --> 0:19:59.119
<v Speaker 3>fast on the first sixty meters because they are using

0:19:59.680 --> 0:20:04.840
<v Speaker 3>this a very tall ladder the firefighter. So it's just

0:20:04.880 --> 0:20:08.840
<v Speaker 3>like so on my mind, I was thinking, I have

0:20:09.000 --> 0:20:11.960
<v Speaker 3>never climbed the fucking building in my life. I didn't

0:20:12.000 --> 0:20:15.680
<v Speaker 3>even check that building, and I need to get sure

0:20:15.720 --> 0:20:18.840
<v Speaker 3>that within a three or four minutes, I have already

0:20:18.840 --> 0:20:23.000
<v Speaker 3>climbed the sixteen meters. And then I was thinking, on

0:20:23.119 --> 0:20:25.600
<v Speaker 3>the top of it, there will be cops, they may

0:20:25.640 --> 0:20:28.840
<v Speaker 3>try to shoot me. Or then the next day that

0:20:28.960 --> 0:20:32.359
<v Speaker 3>we plan, Okay, you go to the building at eight

0:20:32.440 --> 0:20:35.320
<v Speaker 3>am and everything. But he called me in the morning

0:20:35.400 --> 0:20:38.159
<v Speaker 3>and he said, we're having a bad news. There is

0:20:38.200 --> 0:20:43.040
<v Speaker 3>a marathon all around the building and this area it's

0:20:43.359 --> 0:20:48.200
<v Speaker 3>completely locked, is full of cops and everything. So I

0:20:48.240 --> 0:20:53.400
<v Speaker 3>had to wait until two pm. So then the more

0:20:53.440 --> 0:20:59.080
<v Speaker 3>I was waiting, the more I was getting anxious and nervous. Finally,

0:20:59.680 --> 0:21:02.600
<v Speaker 3>at clock he called me. He said, it's fine, a line,

0:21:02.640 --> 0:21:05.960
<v Speaker 3>be ready, you know, cops now they are gone and everything.

0:21:06.880 --> 0:21:12.600
<v Speaker 4>Thirty minutes later, what's happened? It started to rain again again. Again.

0:21:12.640 --> 0:21:15.240
<v Speaker 3>He called me and he said, alah, you know, we

0:21:15.600 --> 0:21:16.600
<v Speaker 3>are really sorry.

0:21:16.720 --> 0:21:21.640
<v Speaker 4>You need you need to postpone this sand because now

0:21:21.760 --> 0:21:22.399
<v Speaker 4>it's rains.

0:21:22.800 --> 0:21:27.159
<v Speaker 3>So I waited again like one hour, and then you

0:21:27.200 --> 0:21:30.159
<v Speaker 3>called me back and he said, well, now it's sunny again.

0:21:30.280 --> 0:21:31.240
<v Speaker 4>We went to the building.

0:21:31.359 --> 0:21:35.240
<v Speaker 3>It's completely dry and line, you know, be ready, prepare,

0:21:35.280 --> 0:21:39.520
<v Speaker 3>you're climbing shoes, take a taxi and ask your friend

0:21:39.920 --> 0:21:43.640
<v Speaker 3>Alexis with the photographer to drop you. And then uh,

0:21:44.000 --> 0:21:47.679
<v Speaker 3>finally I was. I was at it and uh, and

0:21:47.920 --> 0:21:52.280
<v Speaker 3>right away I found it insane, except that I was

0:21:52.480 --> 0:21:57.000
<v Speaker 3>really really tired because the way I managed to climb

0:21:57.040 --> 0:22:02.200
<v Speaker 3>the first six meters was was really was completely wrong. Actually,

0:22:02.800 --> 0:22:06.600
<v Speaker 3>now if I climb a building, I just need to

0:22:06.640 --> 0:22:09.920
<v Speaker 3>be fast for the first two meters and not even

0:22:10.160 --> 0:22:13.200
<v Speaker 3>if there is nobody here, I don't even need to rush.

0:22:13.240 --> 0:22:13.560
<v Speaker 4>Wow.

0:22:13.720 --> 0:22:17.520
<v Speaker 3>But I had so much on my mind that I

0:22:17.920 --> 0:22:21.440
<v Speaker 3>nearly had to run on the building for sixty meters.

0:22:21.840 --> 0:22:26.640
<v Speaker 3>That finally, by the time I have climbed the sixty meters,

0:22:26.720 --> 0:22:28.920
<v Speaker 3>I was completely exhausted.

0:22:29.359 --> 0:22:31.800
<v Speaker 4>I was diidrated because.

0:22:31.520 --> 0:22:36.320
<v Speaker 3>Those were windows, mirror and with the sun and reflection

0:22:36.880 --> 0:22:39.200
<v Speaker 3>that I was really really, really dead.

0:22:40.119 --> 0:22:44.240
<v Speaker 2>Wow, So you had the This must have been absolutely crazy,

0:22:44.240 --> 0:22:48.800
<v Speaker 2>because I can imagine once you get going, it's you've

0:22:48.840 --> 0:22:52.560
<v Speaker 2>got no preparation, just visuals. You can't look at the building,

0:22:52.640 --> 0:22:55.200
<v Speaker 2>you can't figure it out. You literally have to get

0:22:55.200 --> 0:22:59.119
<v Speaker 2>on there and go sixty meters. So you hit sixty

0:22:59.200 --> 0:23:02.760
<v Speaker 2>meters and and what you what's going through your heads?

0:23:02.800 --> 0:23:04.479
<v Speaker 2>What do you think at this stage? You think, well,

0:23:04.480 --> 0:23:07.159
<v Speaker 2>I can slow down a bit now or did you

0:23:07.200 --> 0:23:09.840
<v Speaker 2>just go just keep going, just keep going no more more?

0:23:09.960 --> 0:23:14.639
<v Speaker 3>Like I was into the I was into into that

0:23:14.880 --> 0:23:18.280
<v Speaker 3>race with the time and I don't even know. It's

0:23:18.320 --> 0:23:22.280
<v Speaker 3>like you are no longer thinking on your own you

0:23:22.280 --> 0:23:25.919
<v Speaker 3>you are you are thinking, uh, based on what this

0:23:26.640 --> 0:23:27.640
<v Speaker 3>film director.

0:23:28.280 --> 0:23:28.480
<v Speaker 4>You know.

0:23:28.560 --> 0:23:32.879
<v Speaker 3>The The problem is, once you have taken a certain pace,

0:23:33.280 --> 0:23:38.160
<v Speaker 3>it's difficult to change it. It's not so simple suddenly,

0:23:38.240 --> 0:23:43.719
<v Speaker 3>you know, like slowing down, reducing your speed. It doesn't

0:23:43.720 --> 0:23:47.480
<v Speaker 3>happen like that. It is happening for sure, because actually

0:23:48.240 --> 0:23:54.000
<v Speaker 3>your your your your physical stamina is decreasing. Then at

0:23:54.000 --> 0:23:59.880
<v Speaker 3>the same time your speed is also decreasing. But otherwise

0:24:00.359 --> 0:24:04.440
<v Speaker 3>it's like you are too much. It's like a little

0:24:04.480 --> 0:24:07.240
<v Speaker 3>bit like if before it I have been kind of

0:24:08.200 --> 0:24:13.440
<v Speaker 3>brainwashed and I had been computerized to climb this building

0:24:14.119 --> 0:24:14.760
<v Speaker 3>that fast.

0:24:15.640 --> 0:24:18.560
<v Speaker 2>Do you have any distractions was you're climbing. Did you

0:24:18.640 --> 0:24:22.760
<v Speaker 2>know were the police around? Could you hear sirens? Could

0:24:22.800 --> 0:24:25.800
<v Speaker 2>you was there any distractions where you thought to yourself, Oh, no,

0:24:26.119 --> 0:24:28.679
<v Speaker 2>just I've got to I've got to ignore these and

0:24:28.760 --> 0:24:30.920
<v Speaker 2>just concentrate on the climb and get to the top.

0:24:31.080 --> 0:24:32.440
<v Speaker 2>You know, that might that might.

0:24:32.400 --> 0:24:35.560
<v Speaker 3>Cause me to fool No, because I actually that that

0:24:35.720 --> 0:24:40.240
<v Speaker 3>was different. You know, Let's say that I was really

0:24:40.359 --> 0:24:44.919
<v Speaker 3>focused on my targets or priority, this is to stay alive,

0:24:45.400 --> 0:24:51.440
<v Speaker 3>and then I was more on survival instinct mode. So yes,

0:24:51.640 --> 0:24:55.720
<v Speaker 3>I could hear sirens, I could I could hear cops.

0:24:56.040 --> 0:24:59.879
<v Speaker 3>I could hear some people screaming at the bottom, so

0:25:00.320 --> 0:25:04.480
<v Speaker 3>some people, you know, gathering at the bottom of the buildings.

0:25:04.520 --> 0:25:08.359
<v Speaker 3>But I didn't I didn't really care. I meaning that

0:25:08.800 --> 0:25:12.919
<v Speaker 3>was not important. It's more like, you know, when you

0:25:12.920 --> 0:25:16.480
<v Speaker 3>go to the supermarket, than is music as a background,

0:25:16.600 --> 0:25:20.480
<v Speaker 3>and then you go to the supermarket not for listening music,

0:25:20.560 --> 0:25:21.920
<v Speaker 3>but to buy some food.

0:25:22.240 --> 0:25:24.000
<v Speaker 4>May I was climbing that building.

0:25:24.040 --> 0:25:26.840
<v Speaker 3>My mission was to climb the building, was not about

0:25:27.240 --> 0:25:30.760
<v Speaker 3>listening and watching what was happening around me. So I

0:25:30.880 --> 0:25:33.040
<v Speaker 3>was really concentrated on my target.

0:25:33.359 --> 0:25:36.960
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, you're super super focused. I suppose you can't afford

0:25:37.080 --> 0:25:39.480
<v Speaker 2>not to be focused when you're climbing something like that,

0:25:39.560 --> 0:25:41.639
<v Speaker 2>because only one mistake, and you.

0:25:42.480 --> 0:25:45.240
<v Speaker 3>This is you know, every day I am having this

0:25:45.880 --> 0:25:50.199
<v Speaker 3>question one hundred times, and every day I am replying

0:25:50.320 --> 0:25:54.000
<v Speaker 3>because people they don't understand. They are thinking that I

0:25:54.040 --> 0:25:57.400
<v Speaker 3>don't feel fear, and I'm explaining I am the same

0:25:57.480 --> 0:26:02.280
<v Speaker 3>as any other human being. I do feel fear. But

0:26:02.960 --> 0:26:07.120
<v Speaker 3>the difference I am mastering my fear. When I am

0:26:07.200 --> 0:26:10.000
<v Speaker 3>doing something which my life is at stake, I can

0:26:10.160 --> 0:26:11.360
<v Speaker 3>put my fear.

0:26:11.160 --> 0:26:13.560
<v Speaker 4>Aside because I can't.

0:26:14.160 --> 0:26:19.600
<v Speaker 3>I can't afford to be distracted by thinking that I

0:26:19.680 --> 0:26:21.119
<v Speaker 3>may fall and I may die.

0:26:21.680 --> 0:26:24.000
<v Speaker 4>You know. All the more, when I.

0:26:23.920 --> 0:26:28.800
<v Speaker 3>Was restollowing those Third India on rocks, I was so

0:26:29.119 --> 0:26:33.800
<v Speaker 3>on the edge then I was absolute clear, no space

0:26:34.000 --> 0:26:38.160
<v Speaker 3>for any single fear because I was dealing with some

0:26:38.720 --> 0:26:48.400
<v Speaker 3>movements so precise, so interasing clear difficult. Then nothing was interfering. Yes,

0:26:49.480 --> 0:26:53.720
<v Speaker 3>LA focused on that exactly, exactly, laser focused.

0:26:53.960 --> 0:26:57.199
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, and I understand that in the military when I

0:26:57.280 --> 0:26:59.399
<v Speaker 2>used to, you know, do what I do, had to

0:26:59.400 --> 0:27:02.360
<v Speaker 2>be laser focused on the job at hand because if

0:27:02.440 --> 0:27:06.960
<v Speaker 2>not one mistake, one error, and you know, you'd be gone.

0:27:07.400 --> 0:27:10.639
<v Speaker 2>So you have to stay laser focused in those moments

0:27:10.640 --> 0:27:13.680
<v Speaker 2>because it's a matter of life or death if you've

0:27:13.680 --> 0:27:25.200
<v Speaker 2>got to get it right. Going back to the climb

0:27:25.240 --> 0:27:28.560
<v Speaker 2>in Chicago, you get to the top, you get arrested.

0:27:28.840 --> 0:27:31.359
<v Speaker 2>Do you get a buzz after that? Do you think

0:27:31.359 --> 0:27:34.280
<v Speaker 2>to yourself, right, this is what I want to do now,

0:27:34.359 --> 0:27:37.560
<v Speaker 2>I just want to go around the world. If the

0:27:37.640 --> 0:27:40.040
<v Speaker 2>people are sponsoring me, if people are paying for me

0:27:40.119 --> 0:27:42.879
<v Speaker 2>to do this, I get a buzz off of it.

0:27:42.920 --> 0:27:44.359
<v Speaker 2>This is what I want to do. This is what

0:27:44.400 --> 0:27:45.000
<v Speaker 2>I'm going to do.

0:27:45.080 --> 0:27:46.320
<v Speaker 4>I was still not at it.

0:27:46.760 --> 0:27:51.320
<v Speaker 3>Actually, I have only joined the team Sector No Limits.

0:27:51.720 --> 0:27:54.040
<v Speaker 4>You know, it's a team of the athletes.

0:27:53.640 --> 0:27:59.640
<v Speaker 3>Like some they are they are they are swimming, so Scooba, diving, well,

0:28:00.240 --> 0:28:04.159
<v Speaker 3>all that kind of stuff. And they were making a

0:28:04.240 --> 0:28:08.080
<v Speaker 3>documentary film on all of the athletes. So for me,

0:28:08.119 --> 0:28:12.480
<v Speaker 3>it was free swallowing. But except that the film director

0:28:12.720 --> 0:28:16.040
<v Speaker 3>he came with the idea that actually, this guy he

0:28:16.080 --> 0:28:23.280
<v Speaker 3>could climb some some rocks in Utah, some sandstone looks

0:28:23.359 --> 0:28:28.879
<v Speaker 3>like a bit like like like a building. And suddenly, uh,

0:28:29.880 --> 0:28:33.960
<v Speaker 3>along the way, he's falling asleep, and suddenly in his

0:28:34.080 --> 0:28:39.080
<v Speaker 3>image on those rock towers, he's shifting onto a building.

0:28:39.720 --> 0:28:43.000
<v Speaker 4>So that that was the old That was the old idea.

0:28:43.280 --> 0:28:46.720
<v Speaker 3>So so you're you're seeing me climbing something like a

0:28:46.800 --> 0:28:48.719
<v Speaker 3>Mozzy's Tower in Utah.

0:28:49.120 --> 0:28:50.640
<v Speaker 4>So it's like it.

0:28:50.600 --> 0:28:54.280
<v Speaker 3>Looks like nearly like like a World Red Center, and

0:28:54.320 --> 0:28:59.360
<v Speaker 3>then suddenly we are shifting on something very similar, except

0:28:59.400 --> 0:29:02.040
<v Speaker 3>that you are in the in the city, you can

0:29:02.120 --> 0:29:05.760
<v Speaker 3>drink whenever, and you're not like in the middle of

0:29:05.800 --> 0:29:06.560
<v Speaker 3>the desert.

0:29:06.760 --> 0:29:10.280
<v Speaker 2>And you know, and when when did you first realize

0:29:10.320 --> 0:29:15.080
<v Speaker 2>that you you had captured the world's attention, that you

0:29:15.160 --> 0:29:19.880
<v Speaker 2>were a global celebrity, that people loved watching you climb,

0:29:19.960 --> 0:29:24.480
<v Speaker 2>people supported your climbing, and you were you were shifted

0:29:24.480 --> 0:29:27.920
<v Speaker 2>into the limelight and into fame. When did you realize

0:29:28.040 --> 0:29:29.640
<v Speaker 2>that moment happened in.

0:29:30.880 --> 0:29:34.520
<v Speaker 3>Ninety four because for doing this, for doing this film,

0:29:35.080 --> 0:29:39.520
<v Speaker 3>I had to climb four different buildings, so we did

0:29:39.680 --> 0:29:42.480
<v Speaker 3>within a short period of time, well not that short,

0:29:42.520 --> 0:29:47.480
<v Speaker 3>but like maybe half here, I climbed those four buildings,

0:29:47.760 --> 0:29:52.200
<v Speaker 3>and then I realized that actually I started to get

0:29:52.680 --> 0:29:58.120
<v Speaker 3>demons for interviews every day from all over the world

0:29:58.200 --> 0:30:01.640
<v Speaker 3>and everything. So then I realized, and then I started

0:30:01.640 --> 0:30:05.760
<v Speaker 3>to get demands from people willing to sponsor me, to

0:30:05.960 --> 0:30:09.280
<v Speaker 3>pay me. So, you know, suddenly I was in a

0:30:09.320 --> 0:30:13.560
<v Speaker 3>complete different world when I was free. Following five third indeed,

0:30:14.000 --> 0:30:18.840
<v Speaker 3>I could get a very small, tiny little sponsor paying

0:30:18.880 --> 0:30:23.040
<v Speaker 3>me not much, giving me a yeah, free climbing shoes

0:30:23.160 --> 0:30:27.640
<v Speaker 3>and all that stuff. And suddenly for me, it's just

0:30:27.720 --> 0:30:31.760
<v Speaker 3>like I could make a fortune and still climbing, meaning

0:30:31.840 --> 0:30:35.120
<v Speaker 3>still doing something that I loved doing.

0:30:35.240 --> 0:30:37.800
<v Speaker 4>So that was like kind of insane.

0:30:38.040 --> 0:30:42.080
<v Speaker 3>And to be honest with you, I have known celebrity

0:30:42.120 --> 0:30:45.360
<v Speaker 3>in some places in the world that you can't even imagine,

0:30:45.680 --> 0:30:48.480
<v Speaker 3>you know. I remember in ninety six when I went

0:30:48.520 --> 0:30:52.840
<v Speaker 3>to Rio Degenero. I had been previously three times on

0:30:53.000 --> 0:30:59.760
<v Speaker 3>Fantastico Fantastical pretty much any single Brasilian watching it on

0:31:00.760 --> 0:31:03.080
<v Speaker 3>So when I arrived at the airport in.

0:31:03.120 --> 0:31:07.640
<v Speaker 4>Rio, everybody was knowing me. I was passing back.

0:31:07.720 --> 0:31:11.600
<v Speaker 3>There was buses with a full of kids ambrenare.

0:31:12.720 --> 0:31:13.920
<v Speaker 4>I didn't know.

0:31:15.440 --> 0:31:19.400
<v Speaker 3>It's just like suddenly over night, you know, I climb

0:31:19.440 --> 0:31:22.480
<v Speaker 3>in Abuddha Bie in Dubai with more than hundred a

0:31:22.520 --> 0:31:26.920
<v Speaker 3>thousands people looking at me climbing. It's like it's like

0:31:26.960 --> 0:31:32.000
<v Speaker 3>a meat Jagger concert. At the bottom, they're like watching

0:31:32.080 --> 0:31:32.280
<v Speaker 3>at you.

0:31:34.880 --> 0:31:37.400
<v Speaker 2>That's amazing, man, How did that make you feel?

0:31:37.680 --> 0:31:37.960
<v Speaker 4>Well?

0:31:38.400 --> 0:31:40.600
<v Speaker 3>It's the same, you know, at the same time when

0:31:40.640 --> 0:31:43.960
<v Speaker 3>I'm climbing, all the more if it's difficult. If it's

0:31:43.960 --> 0:31:46.640
<v Speaker 3>not difficult, I can make a show a bit. Now

0:31:47.600 --> 0:31:52.840
<v Speaker 3>I have started to understand that when when the crowd

0:31:53.160 --> 0:31:56.040
<v Speaker 3>is shouting, you know, I can hear that they are

0:31:56.120 --> 0:31:59.400
<v Speaker 3>cheering me up because you know, all all the stuff

0:31:59.440 --> 0:32:02.040
<v Speaker 3>I did for sample in the UAE or in Katar,

0:32:02.440 --> 0:32:06.880
<v Speaker 3>I did it officially, So it means that that's why

0:32:06.920 --> 0:32:11.360
<v Speaker 3>they're allowing more than hundred thousand people to come on

0:32:11.440 --> 0:32:16.440
<v Speaker 3>the spot, because it is regimented by like five hundred cups.

0:32:16.440 --> 0:32:19.320
<v Speaker 3>So I got also this kind of stuff in China.

0:32:20.200 --> 0:32:25.080
<v Speaker 3>In China having like seven hundred the militaries taking care

0:32:25.480 --> 0:32:28.400
<v Speaker 3>of me with a lot of cops and being sure

0:32:28.440 --> 0:32:32.480
<v Speaker 3>that they could manage all of the people. So those

0:32:32.520 --> 0:32:36.600
<v Speaker 3>are things that I have been living in Kazakhstan. I

0:32:36.680 --> 0:32:40.000
<v Speaker 3>have been living in Katar and many times in Dubai,

0:32:40.120 --> 0:32:44.960
<v Speaker 3>many times in a budha b in Brazil, in Caracas,

0:32:45.560 --> 0:32:50.560
<v Speaker 3>you know, in many countries, even in Moscow. In Moscow,

0:32:50.600 --> 0:32:55.000
<v Speaker 3>because that was during the Moscow Anniversary in twenty eleven,

0:32:56.200 --> 0:32:59.560
<v Speaker 3>they were doing the biggest video mapping and a burning.

0:32:59.720 --> 0:33:03.680
<v Speaker 3>I was climbing the Moscow University at night. There was

0:33:03.720 --> 0:33:07.760
<v Speaker 3>a twenty three minute films that cost fifteen million. There

0:33:07.800 --> 0:33:11.440
<v Speaker 3>was Vladimir Putin that was medve F and there was

0:33:11.560 --> 0:33:13.280
<v Speaker 3>eight hundred thousand people.

0:33:14.120 --> 0:33:19.800
<v Speaker 2>Wow, that is phenomenal.

0:33:17.720 --> 0:33:19.720
<v Speaker 4>Seeing a crowd that huge.

0:33:20.040 --> 0:33:23.480
<v Speaker 3>I am still having pictures sometimes I am posting it

0:33:23.560 --> 0:33:29.240
<v Speaker 3>because it's just like I still need to scratch my head. Yeah,

0:33:29.400 --> 0:33:34.880
<v Speaker 3>pinch yourself now nowadays, Yeah, my career is more like backwards.

0:33:34.920 --> 0:33:39.600
<v Speaker 3>But however, I am still climbing. I am on the

0:33:39.720 --> 0:33:43.560
<v Speaker 3>project of a big film, a bit like the one

0:33:43.600 --> 0:33:48.320
<v Speaker 3>like a free solo, you know, something really with money

0:33:48.400 --> 0:33:51.520
<v Speaker 3>and you know, and also you know the new generation

0:33:51.720 --> 0:33:57.080
<v Speaker 3>of material because you know, now when I'm watching all

0:33:57.120 --> 0:34:01.160
<v Speaker 3>the difficult buildings, I did twenty five years ago. The

0:34:01.200 --> 0:34:03.800
<v Speaker 3>way the way they get film was ship because the

0:34:04.120 --> 0:34:07.840
<v Speaker 3>cameras were bad. The angles were wrong because they were

0:34:07.880 --> 0:34:10.720
<v Speaker 3>at the bottom. As the good angle they are from above.

0:34:11.000 --> 0:34:12.920
<v Speaker 3>So it has to be drawn or it has to

0:34:12.960 --> 0:34:13.319
<v Speaker 3>be good.

0:34:14.840 --> 0:34:19.400
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, the angles, the long lenses, everything exactly.

0:34:19.520 --> 0:34:24.880
<v Speaker 3>So you know, it's like even in this department, the

0:34:25.760 --> 0:34:30.960
<v Speaker 3>level I shifted, like, you know, it looks like what

0:34:31.040 --> 0:34:33.480
<v Speaker 3>I was doing thirty years ago looks like well, like

0:34:34.000 --> 0:34:37.919
<v Speaker 3>Charlie chapin a movie. And what you are doing now,

0:34:37.960 --> 0:34:39.520
<v Speaker 3>it's a mission impossible.

0:34:39.640 --> 0:34:40.640
<v Speaker 2>It's completely different.

0:34:40.680 --> 0:34:41.279
<v Speaker 4>Yeah.

0:34:41.320 --> 0:34:43.759
<v Speaker 2>And and what I love about you and what you've

0:34:43.760 --> 0:34:48.160
<v Speaker 2>done for this community and what you've done for globally

0:34:48.680 --> 0:34:51.840
<v Speaker 2>is you've broken the mold when it's come when it

0:34:51.880 --> 0:34:55.759
<v Speaker 2>comes to climbing buildings, because at first it was highly illegal.

0:34:56.000 --> 0:34:58.360
<v Speaker 2>It had to be a secret operation. You know, you

0:34:58.440 --> 0:35:00.600
<v Speaker 2>had to go down at the bottom, said at first,

0:35:00.719 --> 0:35:02.759
<v Speaker 2>wait for the rain, wait for the security to go,

0:35:02.880 --> 0:35:07.319
<v Speaker 2>then climb. And you broke that mold where it became accessible.

0:35:07.400 --> 0:35:11.200
<v Speaker 2>People were granting you and you only permission to climb

0:35:11.200 --> 0:35:14.840
<v Speaker 2>this building, you know, an audience and an escort, a

0:35:14.920 --> 0:35:18.439
<v Speaker 2>police escort. You completely shattered the mold. When it came

0:35:18.480 --> 0:35:23.759
<v Speaker 2>to something being highly illegal, to something being celebrated and

0:35:25.280 --> 0:35:28.799
<v Speaker 2>put on the map and almost breaking down rules and

0:35:28.840 --> 0:35:33.440
<v Speaker 2>regulations because of what you achieved. How did that? How

0:35:33.440 --> 0:35:35.560
<v Speaker 2>does that make you feel? Now that you can you

0:35:35.600 --> 0:35:38.279
<v Speaker 2>can go wherever you want basically and go I want

0:35:38.280 --> 0:35:40.640
<v Speaker 2>to climb that structure. Anyone else they'll be like, no,

0:35:40.880 --> 0:35:44.640
<v Speaker 2>mister Allah, go ahead, you climb it. That's phenomenal, that's

0:35:44.680 --> 0:35:45.200
<v Speaker 2>really good.

0:35:45.360 --> 0:35:46.200
<v Speaker 4>It's interesting.

0:35:46.480 --> 0:35:49.800
<v Speaker 3>You know that I am in the English school books

0:35:50.400 --> 0:35:51.640
<v Speaker 3>for the primary school.

0:35:51.880 --> 0:35:55.320
<v Speaker 4>There is my story all over the world. People they are.

0:35:55.280 --> 0:35:58.400
<v Speaker 3>Learning because sometimes says, there is a lot of haters

0:35:58.440 --> 0:36:02.160
<v Speaker 3>and social medias and they are wishing me deaf. They

0:36:02.200 --> 0:36:04.759
<v Speaker 3>are you know, I got it again this morning. So

0:36:04.800 --> 0:36:09.759
<v Speaker 3>I am blocking people, but it's annoying. But sometimes I'm responding.

0:36:10.120 --> 0:36:14.120
<v Speaker 3>I am saying, well, you know that maybe because most likely,

0:36:14.880 --> 0:36:17.600
<v Speaker 3>if you're having kids, they are learning my story at

0:36:17.640 --> 0:36:22.000
<v Speaker 3>school because I am in their school books.

0:36:22.200 --> 0:36:24.719
<v Speaker 4>And whether you whether you like it or not.

0:36:26.040 --> 0:36:31.880
<v Speaker 2>I'm there. Maybe you like you or not, your children

0:36:32.120 --> 0:36:33.160
<v Speaker 2>are going to be reading about it.

0:36:33.200 --> 0:36:35.880
<v Speaker 3>I am not such a bad example. I've been invited

0:36:35.920 --> 0:36:38.600
<v Speaker 3>to the Elize Palace. I have been invited by the

0:36:38.719 --> 0:36:41.480
<v Speaker 3>King and the Queen and Malaysia, the Sheek Mahammad in

0:36:41.560 --> 0:36:46.759
<v Speaker 3>Dubai and plenty of people. I gave talks in Oxford,

0:36:46.920 --> 0:36:51.400
<v Speaker 3>I gave talks in Cambridge. I am having a statue

0:36:51.440 --> 0:36:54.759
<v Speaker 3>in China. I am featured in the book among the

0:36:54.840 --> 0:36:57.320
<v Speaker 3>Andred Greaterst Sport People from Old Time.

0:36:57.719 --> 0:36:59.040
<v Speaker 4>I wrote many books.

0:36:59.360 --> 0:37:02.080
<v Speaker 2>You know, yeah, but you push. You are the epitome

0:37:02.280 --> 0:37:06.480
<v Speaker 2>of pushing human capability and performance. You know, what is

0:37:06.480 --> 0:37:08.960
<v Speaker 2>there not to celebrate about that? It is? You know,

0:37:09.480 --> 0:37:14.600
<v Speaker 2>you talk about emotional intelligence, psychological resilience, physical robustness, capability.

0:37:15.040 --> 0:37:17.840
<v Speaker 2>Why wouldn't you push that out? Why there's such a

0:37:17.880 --> 0:37:20.040
<v Speaker 2>positive message in what you do? And listen to the

0:37:20.040 --> 0:37:23.239
<v Speaker 2>haters of the haters unfortunately that's a generational thing that

0:37:23.280 --> 0:37:24.560
<v Speaker 2>you get on social media.

0:37:24.760 --> 0:37:25.359
<v Speaker 4>Ignore them.

0:37:25.400 --> 0:37:29.120
<v Speaker 2>But when it comes to human capability and performance, you

0:37:29.160 --> 0:37:32.600
<v Speaker 2>are showing the world that we are a phenomenal, phenomenal

0:37:33.120 --> 0:37:36.400
<v Speaker 2>species and that if you put your mind to things

0:37:36.719 --> 0:37:40.360
<v Speaker 2>and you focus on things, you can achieve the impossible,

0:37:40.400 --> 0:37:42.960
<v Speaker 2>which is absolutely phenomenal. And what I love about you

0:37:43.040 --> 0:37:46.600
<v Speaker 2>as well is that you recently climbed with your son.

0:37:46.719 --> 0:37:49.840
<v Speaker 3>Yeah, yeah, we did it like pretty much two years

0:37:49.880 --> 0:37:54.000
<v Speaker 3>back and that now this coming October.

0:37:53.480 --> 0:37:55.040
<v Speaker 4>He wants to do another one with me.

0:37:56.120 --> 0:37:57.439
<v Speaker 2>And what did you climb with him?

0:37:57.600 --> 0:38:00.520
<v Speaker 3>Ah, there was an easy belding in a Barcelona We

0:38:00.600 --> 0:38:06.200
<v Speaker 3>climbed glorious tower. But you know, he has never climbed

0:38:06.200 --> 0:38:09.280
<v Speaker 3>before and more than forty four meters. But the problem

0:38:09.360 --> 0:38:14.560
<v Speaker 3>is that he didn't know how to manage his muscles

0:38:14.920 --> 0:38:21.000
<v Speaker 3>so othough he's built like Bruce Lee or small translegger,

0:38:21.680 --> 0:38:26.879
<v Speaker 3>he was completely wasted. I was telling him because we

0:38:26.880 --> 0:38:30.040
<v Speaker 3>were close to each other, and I was telling him, Look, Julian,

0:38:30.239 --> 0:38:34.520
<v Speaker 3>actually me, I am using maybe five percent of my

0:38:34.960 --> 0:38:39.080
<v Speaker 3>physical capacity and you you are using ninety five percent.

0:38:42.160 --> 0:38:45.320
<v Speaker 3>It took him, It took him ten days to recover.

0:38:45.640 --> 0:38:46.440
<v Speaker 3>Ten days.

0:38:46.560 --> 0:38:47.640
<v Speaker 4>And he's a guy.

0:38:48.239 --> 0:38:52.239
<v Speaker 3>He used to be a parashutist. He's good in any

0:38:52.320 --> 0:38:55.799
<v Speaker 3>kind of sports. But the thing is, you know, when

0:38:55.840 --> 0:38:59.840
<v Speaker 3>you are confronted with more than one of the meters

0:39:00.080 --> 0:39:02.200
<v Speaker 3>and you have never climbed before.

0:39:02.160 --> 0:39:04.000
<v Speaker 4>Then I guess the way you are.

0:39:04.040 --> 0:39:09.680
<v Speaker 3>You are you are grabbing your hords, you are pulling

0:39:10.000 --> 0:39:10.640
<v Speaker 3>far too.

0:39:10.520 --> 0:39:16.920
<v Speaker 2>Much, you are exhausting yourself exactly, you're using your legs correctly, exactly.

0:39:16.960 --> 0:39:19.160
<v Speaker 3>You're so afraid that you may for then then you

0:39:19.200 --> 0:39:22.920
<v Speaker 3>want to be absolutely sure. So you're you're you are

0:39:23.040 --> 0:39:26.680
<v Speaker 3>giving like maybe one orndd kg, which at the end

0:39:26.719 --> 0:39:29.280
<v Speaker 3>of the day maybe two kg is enough.

0:39:29.760 --> 0:39:33.160
<v Speaker 2>But of course, and again you know, there's nothing like

0:39:33.440 --> 0:39:36.359
<v Speaker 2>he's obviously got the best, the best teacher, the best

0:39:36.400 --> 0:39:39.360
<v Speaker 2>mentor because when it comes to experience like that, it

0:39:39.520 --> 0:39:42.160
<v Speaker 2>is it's about knowing your body. It's about knowing how

0:39:42.200 --> 0:39:45.239
<v Speaker 2>to control your emotions and to use them to your advantage.

0:39:45.320 --> 0:39:48.360
<v Speaker 2>Like you said, putting yourself up, that's going to exhaust you.

0:39:48.440 --> 0:39:50.799
<v Speaker 2>If you keep doing that, you've got to just you know,

0:39:50.800 --> 0:39:53.600
<v Speaker 2>know what you're doing, use all your bodies, you know,

0:39:53.680 --> 0:39:56.400
<v Speaker 2>try and try and conserve the energty to get up

0:39:56.440 --> 0:40:00.000
<v Speaker 2>to the top. And I've absolutely loved chatting with you.

0:40:00.080 --> 0:40:02.840
<v Speaker 2>It's been absolutely phenomenal. You are, like I said, the

0:40:02.880 --> 0:40:06.560
<v Speaker 2>epitome of human capability and performance. And what is next

0:40:06.719 --> 0:40:09.279
<v Speaker 2>for you? What's happening now?

0:40:09.560 --> 0:40:10.520
<v Speaker 4>Next for me? You know?

0:40:10.719 --> 0:40:14.480
<v Speaker 3>Now I am redoing my visa, so it's gonna take

0:40:14.560 --> 0:40:17.440
<v Speaker 3>like another two months. It's going to be a permanent

0:40:17.960 --> 0:40:21.960
<v Speaker 3>resident visa in Indonesia. Then I will be honest traveling

0:40:22.880 --> 0:40:26.200
<v Speaker 3>in October. There would be the release of my new book.

0:40:26.680 --> 0:40:30.000
<v Speaker 3>I'll be climbing as well in Europe. I'll be climbing

0:40:30.000 --> 0:40:36.040
<v Speaker 3>on rocks in Verdon and also we start working on

0:40:36.680 --> 0:40:37.520
<v Speaker 3>a big film.

0:40:38.400 --> 0:40:43.440
<v Speaker 2>Wow, I can't wait. It's been absolutely phenomenal talking to you,

0:40:43.520 --> 0:40:45.879
<v Speaker 2>my man. I love your energy. You're one of these

0:40:45.960 --> 0:40:49.400
<v Speaker 2>rare people that I can feel your energy through the screen.

0:40:49.920 --> 0:40:53.440
<v Speaker 2>You know, it's great, mate. Thank you so much for

0:40:53.520 --> 0:40:56.800
<v Speaker 2>coming on head Game and listen. I look forward to

0:40:56.880 --> 0:40:59.759
<v Speaker 2>reading your new book and look forward especially to the

0:40:59.800 --> 0:41:00.960
<v Speaker 2>new film that's coming out.

0:41:01.160 --> 0:41:03.719
<v Speaker 4>Thank you mate, Thanks a lot. That was a great pleasure.

0:41:04.920 --> 0:41:07.920
<v Speaker 2>Thank you so much for joining me on Headgame. If

0:41:07.920 --> 0:41:10.960
<v Speaker 2>you enjoyed this episode, make sure you're subscribed so you

0:41:11.000 --> 0:41:13.960
<v Speaker 2>don't miss any of our incredible stories and leave me

0:41:14.040 --> 0:41:18.600
<v Speaker 2>a review wherever you're listening. I'm Matt Middleton. Catch you

0:41:18.640 --> 0:41:19.759
<v Speaker 2>again next time.