1 00:00:00,320 --> 00:00:03,400 Speaker 1: We'd like to acknowledge that traditional custodians of the land 2 00:00:03,520 --> 00:00:06,840 Speaker 1: on which this podcast was produced, the Galligel people of 3 00:00:06,920 --> 00:00:10,440 Speaker 1: the Urination. We pay our respects to Elder's past and present. 4 00:00:12,039 --> 00:00:16,079 Speaker 2: It's March twenty twenty four and we're in Manila. The 5 00:00:16,160 --> 00:00:18,759 Speaker 2: man best known as the French Spider Man has just 6 00:00:18,880 --> 00:00:24,239 Speaker 2: climbed forty seven stories of the GT International Tower. It's 7 00:00:24,280 --> 00:00:27,400 Speaker 2: one of the highest skyscrapers in the Philippines, and Alan 8 00:00:27,520 --> 00:00:30,880 Speaker 2: Robert has scaled the seven hundred and twelve foot building 9 00:00:31,200 --> 00:00:34,320 Speaker 2: without any safety equipment, just a bag of chalk and 10 00:00:34,400 --> 00:00:38,720 Speaker 2: a pair of climbing shoes. He's done it before and 11 00:00:38,800 --> 00:00:41,199 Speaker 2: he'll do it again. With more than one hundred and 12 00:00:41,240 --> 00:00:45,800 Speaker 2: fifty structures under his belt, including the Burj Khalifer, Eiffel 13 00:00:45,880 --> 00:00:50,240 Speaker 2: Tower and the Empire State Building. In the climbing world, 14 00:00:50,360 --> 00:00:53,519 Speaker 2: he's a rock star. More people watched his climb of 15 00:00:53,600 --> 00:00:57,480 Speaker 2: the National Bank of Abu Dhabi than the opening ceremony 16 00:00:57,760 --> 00:01:02,200 Speaker 2: of the Football World Cup Finals. He doesn't see this 17 00:01:02,520 --> 00:01:08,200 Speaker 2: as a sport, but instead a life path. He prepares 18 00:01:08,240 --> 00:01:12,440 Speaker 2: carefully before each ascent, calculating the risks and ensuring his 19 00:01:12,600 --> 00:01:20,120 Speaker 2: mind is totally focused. He must get it right. I'm 20 00:01:20,120 --> 00:01:24,880 Speaker 2: Att Middleton and this is Headgame today, the notorious French 21 00:01:24,920 --> 00:01:29,120 Speaker 2: spider Man undertaking some of the riskiest and most dangerous 22 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:33,640 Speaker 2: challenges in the world and loving every second of it. 23 00:01:37,600 --> 00:01:41,640 Speaker 2: I am extremely excited right now to be speaking with 24 00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:46,560 Speaker 2: the famous French spider Man, Monsieur Alain Robert. 25 00:01:46,680 --> 00:01:56,080 Speaker 3: Mons only like the Bali who the peer you know. 26 00:01:56,720 --> 00:02:00,320 Speaker 3: I am live in Bali, which I've been leaving for 27 00:02:00,440 --> 00:02:01,640 Speaker 3: eleven years. 28 00:02:01,840 --> 00:02:04,200 Speaker 2: It's a pleasure to meet you, it really is. I'm 29 00:02:04,240 --> 00:02:07,520 Speaker 2: a huge, huge fan myself. I've been following your stuff 30 00:02:08,080 --> 00:02:11,920 Speaker 2: since they dot since you know you you brought the 31 00:02:11,960 --> 00:02:16,680 Speaker 2: world to attention hanging off of structures and buildings. But 32 00:02:16,800 --> 00:02:21,320 Speaker 2: let's get into it first and foremost, Allah, when did 33 00:02:21,360 --> 00:02:24,520 Speaker 2: you start climbing? Did you start climbing the moment you 34 00:02:24,560 --> 00:02:27,480 Speaker 2: know you left your mother's womb? Did you start? Were 35 00:02:27,480 --> 00:02:29,960 Speaker 2: you like a kid that climbed all the time? 36 00:02:30,440 --> 00:02:33,519 Speaker 3: Not exactly like that. Actually my story is more complicated. 37 00:02:33,880 --> 00:02:38,160 Speaker 3: I born as a kid that was afraid of everything, 38 00:02:38,639 --> 00:02:43,040 Speaker 3: that was shy. I was lacking of self confidence and 39 00:02:43,760 --> 00:02:48,520 Speaker 3: I had a dream. I wanted to become courageous. 40 00:02:48,760 --> 00:02:52,320 Speaker 4: So it took me. It took me quite some. 41 00:02:52,400 --> 00:02:56,200 Speaker 3: Time, you know, because at some point I was just thinking, 42 00:02:57,919 --> 00:02:59,840 Speaker 3: what is the meaning of a dream? Is it a 43 00:03:00,160 --> 00:03:03,080 Speaker 3: thing that is just a dream and I forget about it? 44 00:03:03,240 --> 00:03:08,320 Speaker 3: Or shall I try to realize my dream? And then 45 00:03:08,360 --> 00:03:12,200 Speaker 3: I did choose to realize it. So later on I 46 00:03:12,240 --> 00:03:15,959 Speaker 3: got inspired. I saw a movie. It's it's a story 47 00:03:16,000 --> 00:03:19,480 Speaker 3: of the plane who crashed near the top of Mont Blanc. 48 00:03:20,360 --> 00:03:21,079 Speaker 4: Two brothers. 49 00:03:21,160 --> 00:03:24,639 Speaker 3: There are mountaineering climber climbers they are they are climbing 50 00:03:24,919 --> 00:03:28,240 Speaker 3: a steep mountain. And then I've been I've been amazed 51 00:03:28,240 --> 00:03:31,080 Speaker 3: by that, and I got really inspired by that. 52 00:03:31,680 --> 00:03:35,000 Speaker 2: Can you remember your first climb? That the first time 53 00:03:35,040 --> 00:03:37,720 Speaker 2: that you thought, do you know what, I'm actually quite 54 00:03:37,760 --> 00:03:39,960 Speaker 2: good at this and I enjoy it. 55 00:03:40,640 --> 00:03:40,880 Speaker 4: Well. 56 00:03:41,080 --> 00:03:44,960 Speaker 3: Actually that that was even purely by accident, you know. 57 00:03:46,720 --> 00:03:47,680 Speaker 4: I was at school. 58 00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:51,240 Speaker 3: There was a too meeching teacher in a row, and 59 00:03:51,320 --> 00:03:54,840 Speaker 3: then I went home. I realized that I didn't have 60 00:03:54,880 --> 00:03:57,520 Speaker 3: my key. Back in the days, I was living on 61 00:03:57,520 --> 00:04:01,240 Speaker 3: the seventh floor. And then, uh, looks the building was 62 00:04:01,280 --> 00:04:06,440 Speaker 3: going to be easy, which it was, but I climbed 63 00:04:06,760 --> 00:04:08,000 Speaker 3: the seventh story building. 64 00:04:08,640 --> 00:04:11,080 Speaker 2: Oh wow, So that's where it all started. Nothing to 65 00:04:11,080 --> 00:04:13,760 Speaker 2: do with climbing, just you didn't want to be left outside. 66 00:04:14,600 --> 00:04:19,960 Speaker 4: Yeah, more more like by obligation. I did it. Yeah, 67 00:04:20,440 --> 00:04:22,039 Speaker 4: but that was kind of simple. 68 00:04:22,160 --> 00:04:25,799 Speaker 3: It's like going from one hand rails to the next, 69 00:04:25,839 --> 00:04:29,600 Speaker 3: so nothing to do like climbing. 70 00:04:29,640 --> 00:04:29,880 Speaker 4: You know. 71 00:04:30,160 --> 00:04:32,880 Speaker 2: Did you climb that and think, oh I enjoyed that. 72 00:04:33,040 --> 00:04:35,280 Speaker 2: I wasn't really scared And did you get a bit 73 00:04:35,320 --> 00:04:36,039 Speaker 2: of a buz from it? 74 00:04:37,000 --> 00:04:41,080 Speaker 3: Well, definitely, But more like back in the days we 75 00:04:41,080 --> 00:04:46,279 Speaker 3: were talking about more than fifty years ago, I had 76 00:04:46,360 --> 00:04:49,560 Speaker 3: no real option. I was living in France, in the 77 00:04:49,600 --> 00:04:50,600 Speaker 3: middle of nowhere. 78 00:04:51,040 --> 00:04:53,000 Speaker 4: Climbing was not existing. 79 00:04:53,720 --> 00:04:57,159 Speaker 3: I couldn't join the Alpine Club because I was too 80 00:04:57,240 --> 00:04:57,720 Speaker 3: too young. 81 00:04:58,480 --> 00:05:00,200 Speaker 4: So I did start. 82 00:05:00,080 --> 00:05:04,840 Speaker 3: By joining becoming a boy scout, and there I met 83 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:10,080 Speaker 3: someone that also wanted to climb. So otherwise maybe if 84 00:05:10,520 --> 00:05:12,400 Speaker 3: I had never met that guy. 85 00:05:12,440 --> 00:05:15,520 Speaker 4: I was never going to climb. Ever, I'm not sure. 86 00:05:15,560 --> 00:05:20,040 Speaker 3: You know, sometimes life is taking some you know direction, 87 00:05:20,760 --> 00:05:24,799 Speaker 3: which at the beginning it looks a bit funny. 88 00:05:25,160 --> 00:05:27,880 Speaker 2: Yes, so that yeah, that's that sliding door moment, isn't it. 89 00:05:28,240 --> 00:05:32,120 Speaker 2: So talk me through your first time that you sort 90 00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:35,120 Speaker 2: of realized that this is what you wanted to do. 91 00:05:35,200 --> 00:05:37,359 Speaker 2: You wanted to climb. You that's you know, you were 92 00:05:37,400 --> 00:05:40,800 Speaker 2: passionate about it, you had a message behind it. When 93 00:05:40,880 --> 00:05:42,560 Speaker 2: was the first time that you thought, do you know what, 94 00:05:43,200 --> 00:05:45,000 Speaker 2: I'm really going to make this career? 95 00:05:45,080 --> 00:05:49,640 Speaker 3: I pretty much knew it right away, Like maybe when 96 00:05:49,680 --> 00:05:55,440 Speaker 3: I was twelve or thirteen, I didn't know that one 97 00:05:55,520 --> 00:05:58,800 Speaker 3: day I would be able to make a living from sponsors. 98 00:05:58,839 --> 00:06:04,719 Speaker 3: So I was just thinking more like becoming mountaineering guide. 99 00:06:05,080 --> 00:06:08,120 Speaker 3: You know that kind of people who are making a living, 100 00:06:08,560 --> 00:06:11,760 Speaker 3: they get clients to climb Mont Blanc or that kind 101 00:06:11,800 --> 00:06:12,279 Speaker 3: of stuff. 102 00:06:12,800 --> 00:06:15,000 Speaker 4: So more more more like that. 103 00:06:15,600 --> 00:06:19,760 Speaker 3: And uh and of course when I started to become famous, 104 00:06:20,120 --> 00:06:23,480 Speaker 3: then I've also realized that I could make a very 105 00:06:23,520 --> 00:06:28,800 Speaker 3: good living by just climbing. So instead of teaching, that 106 00:06:29,000 --> 00:06:31,520 Speaker 3: was really climbing for myself. 107 00:06:31,720 --> 00:06:36,279 Speaker 2: That's quite quite a segue. So when did you first 108 00:06:37,200 --> 00:06:38,640 Speaker 2: do your first solo climb? 109 00:06:39,040 --> 00:06:42,839 Speaker 4: Oh? You know, when I was this boy scout. 110 00:06:43,600 --> 00:06:46,720 Speaker 3: I was with a friend, Pierre actually his name, and 111 00:06:47,000 --> 00:06:50,640 Speaker 3: sometimes we were climbing. We were free flowing, you know, 112 00:06:50,680 --> 00:06:56,200 Speaker 3: easy stuff, but you know, uh, one next to each 113 00:06:56,279 --> 00:06:58,479 Speaker 3: other and you know, just doing understand like that. 114 00:06:59,160 --> 00:07:02,600 Speaker 2: Yes, from a young young age, you're always always climbing. 115 00:07:02,839 --> 00:07:04,760 Speaker 2: I was quite similar. You know, when I was young, 116 00:07:04,839 --> 00:07:08,919 Speaker 2: I was climbing around everywhere, climbing buildings, and you know 117 00:07:09,120 --> 00:07:11,760 Speaker 2: I was I went on to do mountaineering, so it's 118 00:07:11,760 --> 00:07:13,960 Speaker 2: a bit different than the military. So it's a bit 119 00:07:13,960 --> 00:07:17,280 Speaker 2: different to your direction. But take me back to that 120 00:07:17,480 --> 00:07:20,840 Speaker 2: first moment you caught the eyes of the world. 121 00:07:21,520 --> 00:07:24,840 Speaker 3: The attention of the world was in ninety four and 122 00:07:24,920 --> 00:07:31,600 Speaker 3: I climbing in Chicago the Accentia Tower. But actually before it, 123 00:07:32,440 --> 00:07:35,280 Speaker 3: my real legacy is on rocks. What I did on 124 00:07:35,360 --> 00:07:39,360 Speaker 3: rocks is far more impressive than what I did in Berlin. 125 00:07:39,840 --> 00:07:42,000 Speaker 2: Took me through that. Alan took me through that. 126 00:07:42,400 --> 00:07:48,720 Speaker 3: People are not really aware because it was before the internet. 127 00:07:49,680 --> 00:07:51,760 Speaker 3: Back in the days that was like only a few 128 00:07:52,120 --> 00:07:56,160 Speaker 3: TV stations, so not much access to the medias. 129 00:07:56,480 --> 00:07:57,880 Speaker 4: Even Climbing Magazine. 130 00:07:57,920 --> 00:08:00,800 Speaker 3: They wanted not to publish me because they just thought 131 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:03,960 Speaker 3: that what this guy is doing is too dangerous. We 132 00:08:04,040 --> 00:08:08,680 Speaker 3: don't want to show a bad example to our readers, 133 00:08:09,120 --> 00:08:13,800 Speaker 3: so we're only going to post like a small pictures, 134 00:08:13,840 --> 00:08:20,480 Speaker 3: like really something very short. Things has completely shifted when 135 00:08:20,800 --> 00:08:26,040 Speaker 3: Alex o'nald climbed the r Capitan. Yes, suddenly people have 136 00:08:26,160 --> 00:08:29,800 Speaker 3: started to realize that it was possible to do a 137 00:08:29,920 --> 00:08:34,840 Speaker 3: very hard stuff on rocks, which Alexi said it. He 138 00:08:34,960 --> 00:08:38,559 Speaker 3: gave an interview for one of my documentary film in 139 00:08:38,600 --> 00:08:42,199 Speaker 3: twenty twenty and he explained that actually. 140 00:08:41,760 --> 00:08:43,560 Speaker 4: I am the dude, I am the og. 141 00:08:44,240 --> 00:08:46,880 Speaker 3: I am the guy who was free following five firt 142 00:08:46,920 --> 00:08:51,439 Speaker 3: India when he was still a baby. You know, it 143 00:08:51,520 --> 00:08:54,640 Speaker 3: was in nineteen ninety one. But the problem is that, 144 00:08:56,040 --> 00:08:59,680 Speaker 3: of course he knew about this part of my life 145 00:08:59,720 --> 00:09:05,040 Speaker 3: because we met in a film festival in Poland, so 146 00:09:05,120 --> 00:09:07,599 Speaker 3: we knew all about it. I got, I got a 147 00:09:07,679 --> 00:09:11,120 Speaker 3: bigger water back in the days and everything. But the 148 00:09:11,840 --> 00:09:15,320 Speaker 3: thing is most people they didn't really know. Only a 149 00:09:15,440 --> 00:09:20,520 Speaker 3: very small small niche of people were fully aware about it. 150 00:09:20,880 --> 00:09:22,880 Speaker 3: And this is not the way you are making a living. 151 00:09:22,960 --> 00:09:25,520 Speaker 3: This is also not a way that people are ready 152 00:09:25,920 --> 00:09:26,400 Speaker 3: knowing you. 153 00:09:27,160 --> 00:09:29,120 Speaker 4: So it is more. 154 00:09:29,160 --> 00:09:32,640 Speaker 3: Actually, when I shifted onto buildings, and that was the 155 00:09:32,720 --> 00:09:35,600 Speaker 3: right time because what I was doing on rocks was 156 00:09:35,760 --> 00:09:39,560 Speaker 3: so on the edge, so on the cutting edge that 157 00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:43,560 Speaker 3: I couldn't go any further. I was climbing some days. 158 00:09:43,640 --> 00:09:46,480 Speaker 3: I was at fifty to fifty. I was actually the 159 00:09:46,520 --> 00:09:51,319 Speaker 3: first person in the world free following five Indee even Alex. 160 00:09:51,520 --> 00:09:56,440 Speaker 3: He said, he still didn't climb a third Indee free solo. 161 00:09:57,080 --> 00:09:57,520 Speaker 4: Wow. 162 00:09:57,600 --> 00:10:00,160 Speaker 2: So that's why we're having this conversation and. 163 00:10:01,240 --> 00:10:04,800 Speaker 3: We are talking about thirty three years back. 164 00:10:05,160 --> 00:10:08,880 Speaker 2: Yeah, exactly, nineteen ninety one, nineteen ninety that ever you 165 00:10:08,920 --> 00:10:13,120 Speaker 2: were free climbing, and like you said, you know, free climbing. 166 00:10:13,360 --> 00:10:16,000 Speaker 2: There was no internet back then. There was no exposure. 167 00:10:16,280 --> 00:10:19,000 Speaker 2: You know, it is a very very tiny small community 168 00:10:19,360 --> 00:10:22,000 Speaker 2: that went out what climbing, and you know, there wasn't 169 00:10:22,080 --> 00:10:25,880 Speaker 2: really a known sport, so there was there was no 170 00:10:26,000 --> 00:10:29,480 Speaker 2: way of no one even realizing what you were capable 171 00:10:29,520 --> 00:10:33,199 Speaker 2: of or you know, the outstanding climbs that you were 172 00:10:33,200 --> 00:10:35,440 Speaker 2: doing and how dangerous they were, because there was no 173 00:10:35,520 --> 00:10:37,319 Speaker 2: exposure to it exactly. 174 00:10:37,559 --> 00:10:42,720 Speaker 3: And what was frustrating for me is when finally I 175 00:10:42,800 --> 00:10:47,600 Speaker 3: got access to the mainstream medias when I started climbing buildings, 176 00:10:47,760 --> 00:10:51,040 Speaker 3: I was explaining to the journalist that what I did 177 00:10:51,080 --> 00:10:53,880 Speaker 3: on rocks was insane, and they said, no, on rocks, 178 00:10:53,920 --> 00:10:56,760 Speaker 3: you know, there is a there is a bucket, there 179 00:10:56,840 --> 00:11:00,320 Speaker 3: is other guys who did it, but on buildings only 180 00:11:00,360 --> 00:11:01,440 Speaker 3: one and it's smooth, And. 181 00:11:02,320 --> 00:11:03,800 Speaker 4: So I said it. 182 00:11:03,840 --> 00:11:05,559 Speaker 3: I don't know how many times for like maybe a 183 00:11:05,679 --> 00:11:08,200 Speaker 3: year or two, and then one day I even forgot 184 00:11:08,240 --> 00:11:11,920 Speaker 3: myself that that was my background and that was my legacy. 185 00:11:12,520 --> 00:11:17,920 Speaker 3: It it resurve faces in twenty seventeen when Alex climbed 186 00:11:17,920 --> 00:11:18,760 Speaker 3: the El Capitan. 187 00:11:18,960 --> 00:11:21,199 Speaker 4: Otherwise I have I have simply forgotten. 188 00:11:21,440 --> 00:11:24,640 Speaker 2: It's been submerged by the structures that you've climbed. But 189 00:11:25,240 --> 00:11:30,400 Speaker 2: free climbing, free soloing on rocks is extremely difficult if 190 00:11:30,440 --> 00:11:33,199 Speaker 2: you get that wrong. You know, on buildings you can 191 00:11:33,200 --> 00:11:35,800 Speaker 2: get quite I suppose quite a good handhold, quite a 192 00:11:35,800 --> 00:11:39,440 Speaker 2: good hold. But on rocks sometimes people that realize the 193 00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:42,320 Speaker 2: difficulties of being on your fingers, you know. 194 00:11:42,360 --> 00:11:47,000 Speaker 3: Being oh exactly, this is what people don't realize. 195 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:50,400 Speaker 4: You know, Climbing on rocks is far more random. 196 00:11:50,720 --> 00:11:53,800 Speaker 3: There is a there is there may be good pockets, 197 00:11:53,800 --> 00:11:57,760 Speaker 3: and there may be you know, like only a single 198 00:11:58,320 --> 00:12:03,000 Speaker 3: finger hole even on one cm pocket. Then suddenly you're 199 00:12:03,000 --> 00:12:07,040 Speaker 3: having a Dino. So you know, by comparison, it's insane. 200 00:12:07,200 --> 00:12:10,800 Speaker 3: As on buildings you can easily understand right away. You know, 201 00:12:10,840 --> 00:12:13,959 Speaker 3: it takes like sometimes one minute and you know, okay, 202 00:12:14,080 --> 00:12:15,600 Speaker 3: I can easily climb that building. 203 00:12:16,320 --> 00:12:21,320 Speaker 2: So why did you transition from free climbing to buildings. 204 00:12:22,200 --> 00:12:24,400 Speaker 2: Where did that come about? How did you make that decision? 205 00:12:24,679 --> 00:12:30,640 Speaker 3: Because I knew that I was going too far away 206 00:12:30,640 --> 00:12:34,360 Speaker 3: on rocks, I nearly fell. I don't know how many 207 00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:37,680 Speaker 3: times I was climbing, you know, some of the routes 208 00:12:37,720 --> 00:12:40,280 Speaker 3: that I climbed back in the days, I was at 209 00:12:40,640 --> 00:12:45,880 Speaker 3: fifty to fifty, So it means that I was never 210 00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:49,439 Speaker 3: sure that I would be finishing the day. And then, 211 00:12:49,480 --> 00:12:53,040 Speaker 3: you know, when I got this proposal to climb and buildings, 212 00:12:53,440 --> 00:12:58,760 Speaker 3: I at first I was perplexed because nobody has ever 213 00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:02,960 Speaker 3: done that before. For these guys are not at least 214 00:13:02,960 --> 00:13:05,280 Speaker 3: they were paying me an ice trip in the US, 215 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:09,040 Speaker 3: going to New York, Chicago, Dallas and Houston. 216 00:13:09,200 --> 00:13:11,960 Speaker 4: So just thought, well, at the very worst. 217 00:13:12,040 --> 00:13:15,640 Speaker 3: At least I am having ten days a holiday, and 218 00:13:16,280 --> 00:13:19,520 Speaker 3: at the very best, maybe maybe maybe there is still 219 00:13:19,600 --> 00:13:22,680 Speaker 3: something that I could do. And then once I was 220 00:13:22,720 --> 00:13:26,320 Speaker 3: in town, then I realized that wow, there is stuff, 221 00:13:26,640 --> 00:13:31,479 Speaker 3: There is actually a real potential, and I was made. 222 00:13:31,960 --> 00:13:37,040 Speaker 3: I was overly excited. But you know the problem is 223 00:13:37,200 --> 00:13:41,240 Speaker 3: these people they wanted to make it officially, you know, approved, 224 00:13:42,160 --> 00:13:45,520 Speaker 3: but it took them two months before they came back 225 00:13:45,520 --> 00:13:48,160 Speaker 3: to me and they said we tried very hard, you know, 226 00:13:48,240 --> 00:13:51,080 Speaker 3: and all of the buildings that you have spotted, and 227 00:13:51,120 --> 00:13:54,240 Speaker 3: you told us that you could climb it, we cannot 228 00:13:54,280 --> 00:13:58,280 Speaker 3: get a new approval. Then we said, we spoke with 229 00:13:58,320 --> 00:14:01,360 Speaker 3: some lawyers. It seems that it's not a big crime. 230 00:14:01,800 --> 00:14:04,200 Speaker 3: And at the very worst you could learn in jail, 231 00:14:04,280 --> 00:14:08,359 Speaker 3: maybe like up to two weeks, but nothing really serious. 232 00:14:08,600 --> 00:14:09,640 Speaker 4: And then and then I. 233 00:14:09,679 --> 00:14:11,440 Speaker 3: Decided, okay, let's go for it. 234 00:14:11,960 --> 00:14:15,080 Speaker 2: Wow, so you took the opportunity. You thought, do you 235 00:14:15,080 --> 00:14:18,280 Speaker 2: know what, I can travel around the US, I can 236 00:14:18,320 --> 00:14:21,520 Speaker 2: do some cool stuff. Were you excited when they told 237 00:14:21,520 --> 00:14:25,080 Speaker 2: you that you could climb? And maybe maybe you know 238 00:14:25,200 --> 00:14:28,200 Speaker 2: you have got no permits to climb, but climb anyway, 239 00:14:28,280 --> 00:14:30,720 Speaker 2: because if you do, the worst that can happen is 240 00:14:30,720 --> 00:14:32,360 Speaker 2: that you spend a couple of days in prison. Did 241 00:14:32,360 --> 00:14:33,480 Speaker 2: that Did that excite you? 242 00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:33,760 Speaker 4: Yeah? 243 00:14:33,840 --> 00:14:37,320 Speaker 3: Yeah? Well, at the same times, it scires me a 244 00:14:37,320 --> 00:14:40,440 Speaker 3: lot because I was afraid that maybe you know, some 245 00:14:41,040 --> 00:14:44,400 Speaker 3: I don't know, some secuity guys or cups, they may 246 00:14:44,480 --> 00:14:48,280 Speaker 3: try to shoot me. So, you know, I had kind 247 00:14:48,320 --> 00:14:51,240 Speaker 3: of a funny thought on my mind, you know, like 248 00:14:51,440 --> 00:14:56,160 Speaker 3: not being sure that somehow I was very frailed. I 249 00:14:56,240 --> 00:15:00,800 Speaker 3: really wanted to do it. It looks like completely insane. 250 00:15:01,160 --> 00:15:01,360 Speaker 4: You know. 251 00:15:01,640 --> 00:15:05,000 Speaker 3: You get to understand that I had been as far 252 00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:08,480 Speaker 3: as I could go on rocks, So for me, it 253 00:15:08,720 --> 00:15:14,400 Speaker 3: was the perfect transition. It was perfect. Suddenly, you know, 254 00:15:14,880 --> 00:15:19,520 Speaker 3: I was discovering something new. I was discovering, Uh, traveling 255 00:15:19,560 --> 00:15:24,520 Speaker 3: the whole world, meeting people, becoming famous, which is not bad, 256 00:15:25,080 --> 00:15:29,920 Speaker 3: uh going to prison. You know, it was just like 257 00:15:30,200 --> 00:15:34,720 Speaker 3: it was suddenly offering me, you know, a full spectrum 258 00:15:34,920 --> 00:15:38,880 Speaker 3: of everything. And and to be honest with you, I 259 00:15:39,800 --> 00:15:43,080 Speaker 3: really loved it. Now now I started, you know, to 260 00:15:43,120 --> 00:15:46,280 Speaker 3: get you know, I came back on rocks. I am 261 00:15:46,320 --> 00:15:52,600 Speaker 3: no longer performance climber, so I am more like outsider. 262 00:15:53,200 --> 00:15:55,560 Speaker 3: Before I was at my I was at my top, 263 00:15:55,720 --> 00:15:59,200 Speaker 3: so I wanted to push the envelope a bit further 264 00:15:59,560 --> 00:16:03,120 Speaker 3: all the time. But now I have no more ambition, 265 00:16:03,880 --> 00:16:06,680 Speaker 3: only climbing back on rock free solo. And for me, 266 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:16,960 Speaker 3: it's already insane. 267 00:16:17,680 --> 00:16:20,200 Speaker 2: You had a big accident back in nineteen eighty two, 268 00:16:20,360 --> 00:16:20,480 Speaker 2: was it? 269 00:16:20,640 --> 00:16:24,480 Speaker 3: I fell from twenty meters head first and at the 270 00:16:24,520 --> 00:16:29,480 Speaker 3: bottom of the cliff. It was a limestone slab, so 271 00:16:29,680 --> 00:16:35,680 Speaker 3: meaning both hands they exploded. You can see the shape 272 00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:40,560 Speaker 3: on my hand Wow, that was from the accident. I 273 00:16:41,320 --> 00:16:48,200 Speaker 3: have inherited of a sixty six percent disability mainly located 274 00:16:48,480 --> 00:16:53,680 Speaker 3: on my fingers, on my wrist, on my forearms, on 275 00:16:53,720 --> 00:16:54,600 Speaker 3: my elbows. 276 00:16:55,480 --> 00:16:57,880 Speaker 2: You achieved everything after with those injuries. 277 00:16:58,000 --> 00:16:59,680 Speaker 4: Oh yeah, yeah, meaning what is insane? 278 00:16:59,720 --> 00:17:03,400 Speaker 3: It's nine years later I was the first person in 279 00:17:03,400 --> 00:17:06,040 Speaker 3: the world free following a five thirty in year. 280 00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:09,920 Speaker 2: That is phenomenal, that is, and that's all in free 281 00:17:09,960 --> 00:17:12,720 Speaker 2: solo climbing. See that's what I mean. You had such 282 00:17:13,240 --> 00:17:18,879 Speaker 2: a credible and such an honorable and such a successful 283 00:17:19,280 --> 00:17:24,000 Speaker 2: free climbing career which then has completely disappeared really because 284 00:17:24,080 --> 00:17:26,560 Speaker 2: of your building climate. 285 00:17:26,440 --> 00:17:32,800 Speaker 3: Completely overshadowed all I have done that was insane. And 286 00:17:33,720 --> 00:17:38,080 Speaker 3: of course when I started to move back onto social media, 287 00:17:38,280 --> 00:17:40,440 Speaker 3: then I have understood that I was going to use 288 00:17:40,480 --> 00:17:45,600 Speaker 3: it because I had still plenty of all the footages, 289 00:17:45,640 --> 00:17:48,719 Speaker 3: and then I have started, you know, step by step, 290 00:17:49,240 --> 00:17:52,640 Speaker 3: and now pretty much everyone knows that what I did 291 00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:57,240 Speaker 3: on rocks, especially because Alex Honold he gave a like 292 00:17:57,520 --> 00:18:01,840 Speaker 3: ten minutes interview and he's explaining a lot of things. 293 00:18:02,240 --> 00:18:07,760 Speaker 3: He's explaining, uh that I was in advance uh from 294 00:18:07,800 --> 00:18:12,120 Speaker 3: my time, like what what I was doing so he's 295 00:18:12,160 --> 00:18:15,240 Speaker 3: explaining all of that, and that has helped me a lot. 296 00:18:15,400 --> 00:18:18,200 Speaker 3: You know, now, a lot of people that are like, wow, 297 00:18:18,280 --> 00:18:20,720 Speaker 3: you are you are the you are the the the 298 00:18:21,080 --> 00:18:23,720 Speaker 3: eu og you are you know, you are the number one. 299 00:18:23,560 --> 00:18:24,320 Speaker 4: You are this are that? 300 00:18:24,560 --> 00:18:26,800 Speaker 3: So I don't care because there is no competition in 301 00:18:26,840 --> 00:18:30,160 Speaker 3: between me a lex or Or. There was like only 302 00:18:30,200 --> 00:18:33,639 Speaker 3: a couple of guys who climb very difficult routes in 303 00:18:33,640 --> 00:18:36,520 Speaker 3: the whole world. It's like, yeah, we are, we are, 304 00:18:36,560 --> 00:18:37,800 Speaker 3: we are like five or six. 305 00:18:38,400 --> 00:18:41,960 Speaker 2: That's amazing, That's absolutely amazing. So climbing there's always been 306 00:18:42,119 --> 00:18:44,440 Speaker 2: part of your in your DNA has always been part 307 00:18:44,440 --> 00:18:47,760 Speaker 2: of you. And when you went over to climb structures, 308 00:18:47,760 --> 00:18:51,000 Speaker 2: it was more the opportunity, the excitement. Now talk me 309 00:18:51,119 --> 00:18:54,560 Speaker 2: through the first building that you climbed. 310 00:18:54,840 --> 00:18:57,359 Speaker 4: That that wasn't that was insane. 311 00:18:56,920 --> 00:19:01,439 Speaker 3: Because uh I you know, I remember because on that 312 00:19:01,600 --> 00:19:05,520 Speaker 3: day the film director, he knew that I was going 313 00:19:05,560 --> 00:19:08,760 Speaker 3: to do something illegal, so they put me in a 314 00:19:08,880 --> 00:19:13,800 Speaker 3: nice five star hotel, maybe thinking that it could be 315 00:19:13,880 --> 00:19:18,160 Speaker 3: his last night something like that kind of last yeah, 316 00:19:18,240 --> 00:19:23,600 Speaker 3: he's last dinner. Yeah then, and and I remember because 317 00:19:24,280 --> 00:19:28,920 Speaker 3: I kept on thinking, you know about the potential consequences, 318 00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:33,320 Speaker 3: but also whether I would be capable to climb that 319 00:19:33,400 --> 00:19:37,679 Speaker 3: building or not, because I had zero idea. You know, 320 00:19:37,800 --> 00:19:41,520 Speaker 3: back in the days, this guy, the film director said, 321 00:19:41,800 --> 00:19:44,480 Speaker 3: you cannot go to the building, you cannot touch it, 322 00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:47,440 Speaker 3: you cannot try it, so meaning it's just like, Okay, 323 00:19:47,560 --> 00:19:51,639 Speaker 3: I saw it, that's all I know. So and also 324 00:19:51,760 --> 00:19:54,760 Speaker 3: telling me, oh, in Chicago, you need to be very 325 00:19:54,800 --> 00:19:59,119 Speaker 3: fast on the first sixty meters because they are using 326 00:19:59,680 --> 00:20:04,840 Speaker 3: this a very tall ladder the firefighter. So it's just 327 00:20:04,880 --> 00:20:08,840 Speaker 3: like so on my mind, I was thinking, I have 328 00:20:09,000 --> 00:20:11,960 Speaker 3: never climbed the fucking building in my life. I didn't 329 00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:15,680 Speaker 3: even check that building, and I need to get sure 330 00:20:15,720 --> 00:20:18,840 Speaker 3: that within a three or four minutes, I have already 331 00:20:18,840 --> 00:20:23,000 Speaker 3: climbed the sixteen meters. And then I was thinking, on 332 00:20:23,119 --> 00:20:25,600 Speaker 3: the top of it, there will be cops, they may 333 00:20:25,640 --> 00:20:28,840 Speaker 3: try to shoot me. Or then the next day that 334 00:20:28,960 --> 00:20:32,359 Speaker 3: we plan, Okay, you go to the building at eight 335 00:20:32,440 --> 00:20:35,320 Speaker 3: am and everything. But he called me in the morning 336 00:20:35,400 --> 00:20:38,159 Speaker 3: and he said, we're having a bad news. There is 337 00:20:38,200 --> 00:20:43,040 Speaker 3: a marathon all around the building and this area it's 338 00:20:43,359 --> 00:20:48,200 Speaker 3: completely locked, is full of cops and everything. So I 339 00:20:48,240 --> 00:20:53,400 Speaker 3: had to wait until two pm. So then the more 340 00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:59,080 Speaker 3: I was waiting, the more I was getting anxious and nervous. Finally, 341 00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:02,600 Speaker 3: at clock he called me. He said, it's fine, a line, 342 00:21:02,640 --> 00:21:05,960 Speaker 3: be ready, you know, cops now they are gone and everything. 343 00:21:06,880 --> 00:21:12,600 Speaker 4: Thirty minutes later, what's happened? It started to rain again again. Again. 344 00:21:12,640 --> 00:21:15,240 Speaker 3: He called me and he said, alah, you know, we 345 00:21:15,600 --> 00:21:16,600 Speaker 3: are really sorry. 346 00:21:16,720 --> 00:21:21,640 Speaker 4: You need you need to postpone this sand because now 347 00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:22,399 Speaker 4: it's rains. 348 00:21:22,800 --> 00:21:27,159 Speaker 3: So I waited again like one hour, and then you 349 00:21:27,200 --> 00:21:30,159 Speaker 3: called me back and he said, well, now it's sunny again. 350 00:21:30,280 --> 00:21:31,240 Speaker 4: We went to the building. 351 00:21:31,359 --> 00:21:35,240 Speaker 3: It's completely dry and line, you know, be ready, prepare, 352 00:21:35,280 --> 00:21:39,520 Speaker 3: you're climbing shoes, take a taxi and ask your friend 353 00:21:39,920 --> 00:21:43,640 Speaker 3: Alexis with the photographer to drop you. And then uh, 354 00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:47,679 Speaker 3: finally I was. I was at it and uh, and 355 00:21:47,920 --> 00:21:52,280 Speaker 3: right away I found it insane, except that I was 356 00:21:52,480 --> 00:21:57,000 Speaker 3: really really tired because the way I managed to climb 357 00:21:57,040 --> 00:22:02,200 Speaker 3: the first six meters was was really was completely wrong. Actually, 358 00:22:02,800 --> 00:22:06,600 Speaker 3: now if I climb a building, I just need to 359 00:22:06,640 --> 00:22:09,920 Speaker 3: be fast for the first two meters and not even 360 00:22:10,160 --> 00:22:13,200 Speaker 3: if there is nobody here, I don't even need to rush. 361 00:22:13,240 --> 00:22:13,560 Speaker 4: Wow. 362 00:22:13,720 --> 00:22:17,520 Speaker 3: But I had so much on my mind that I 363 00:22:17,920 --> 00:22:21,440 Speaker 3: nearly had to run on the building for sixty meters. 364 00:22:21,840 --> 00:22:26,640 Speaker 3: That finally, by the time I have climbed the sixty meters, 365 00:22:26,720 --> 00:22:28,920 Speaker 3: I was completely exhausted. 366 00:22:29,359 --> 00:22:31,800 Speaker 4: I was diidrated because. 367 00:22:31,520 --> 00:22:36,320 Speaker 3: Those were windows, mirror and with the sun and reflection 368 00:22:36,880 --> 00:22:39,200 Speaker 3: that I was really really, really dead. 369 00:22:40,119 --> 00:22:44,240 Speaker 2: Wow, So you had the This must have been absolutely crazy, 370 00:22:44,240 --> 00:22:48,800 Speaker 2: because I can imagine once you get going, it's you've 371 00:22:48,840 --> 00:22:52,560 Speaker 2: got no preparation, just visuals. You can't look at the building, 372 00:22:52,640 --> 00:22:55,200 Speaker 2: you can't figure it out. You literally have to get 373 00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:59,119 Speaker 2: on there and go sixty meters. So you hit sixty 374 00:22:59,200 --> 00:23:02,760 Speaker 2: meters and and what you what's going through your heads? 375 00:23:02,800 --> 00:23:04,479 Speaker 2: What do you think at this stage? You think, well, 376 00:23:04,480 --> 00:23:07,159 Speaker 2: I can slow down a bit now or did you 377 00:23:07,200 --> 00:23:09,840 Speaker 2: just go just keep going, just keep going no more more? 378 00:23:09,960 --> 00:23:14,639 Speaker 3: Like I was into the I was into into that 379 00:23:14,880 --> 00:23:18,280 Speaker 3: race with the time and I don't even know. It's 380 00:23:18,320 --> 00:23:22,280 Speaker 3: like you are no longer thinking on your own you 381 00:23:22,280 --> 00:23:25,919 Speaker 3: you are you are thinking, uh, based on what this 382 00:23:26,640 --> 00:23:27,640 Speaker 3: film director. 383 00:23:28,280 --> 00:23:28,480 Speaker 4: You know. 384 00:23:28,560 --> 00:23:32,879 Speaker 3: The The problem is, once you have taken a certain pace, 385 00:23:33,280 --> 00:23:38,160 Speaker 3: it's difficult to change it. It's not so simple suddenly, 386 00:23:38,240 --> 00:23:43,719 Speaker 3: you know, like slowing down, reducing your speed. It doesn't 387 00:23:43,720 --> 00:23:47,480 Speaker 3: happen like that. It is happening for sure, because actually 388 00:23:48,240 --> 00:23:54,000 Speaker 3: your your your your physical stamina is decreasing. Then at 389 00:23:54,000 --> 00:23:59,880 Speaker 3: the same time your speed is also decreasing. But otherwise 390 00:24:00,359 --> 00:24:04,440 Speaker 3: it's like you are too much. It's like a little 391 00:24:04,480 --> 00:24:07,240 Speaker 3: bit like if before it I have been kind of 392 00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:13,440 Speaker 3: brainwashed and I had been computerized to climb this building 393 00:24:14,119 --> 00:24:14,760 Speaker 3: that fast. 394 00:24:15,640 --> 00:24:18,560 Speaker 2: Do you have any distractions was you're climbing. Did you 395 00:24:18,640 --> 00:24:22,760 Speaker 2: know were the police around? Could you hear sirens? Could 396 00:24:22,800 --> 00:24:25,800 Speaker 2: you was there any distractions where you thought to yourself, Oh, no, 397 00:24:26,119 --> 00:24:28,679 Speaker 2: just I've got to I've got to ignore these and 398 00:24:28,760 --> 00:24:30,920 Speaker 2: just concentrate on the climb and get to the top. 399 00:24:31,080 --> 00:24:32,440 Speaker 2: You know, that might that might. 400 00:24:32,400 --> 00:24:35,560 Speaker 3: Cause me to fool No, because I actually that that 401 00:24:35,720 --> 00:24:40,240 Speaker 3: was different. You know, Let's say that I was really 402 00:24:40,359 --> 00:24:44,919 Speaker 3: focused on my targets or priority, this is to stay alive, 403 00:24:45,400 --> 00:24:51,440 Speaker 3: and then I was more on survival instinct mode. So yes, 404 00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:55,720 Speaker 3: I could hear sirens, I could I could hear cops. 405 00:24:56,040 --> 00:24:59,879 Speaker 3: I could hear some people screaming at the bottom, so 406 00:25:00,320 --> 00:25:04,480 Speaker 3: some people, you know, gathering at the bottom of the buildings. 407 00:25:04,520 --> 00:25:08,359 Speaker 3: But I didn't I didn't really care. I meaning that 408 00:25:08,800 --> 00:25:12,919 Speaker 3: was not important. It's more like, you know, when you 409 00:25:12,920 --> 00:25:16,480 Speaker 3: go to the supermarket, than is music as a background, 410 00:25:16,600 --> 00:25:20,480 Speaker 3: and then you go to the supermarket not for listening music, 411 00:25:20,560 --> 00:25:21,920 Speaker 3: but to buy some food. 412 00:25:22,240 --> 00:25:24,000 Speaker 4: May I was climbing that building. 413 00:25:24,040 --> 00:25:26,840 Speaker 3: My mission was to climb the building, was not about 414 00:25:27,240 --> 00:25:30,760 Speaker 3: listening and watching what was happening around me. So I 415 00:25:30,880 --> 00:25:33,040 Speaker 3: was really concentrated on my target. 416 00:25:33,359 --> 00:25:36,960 Speaker 2: Yeah, you're super super focused. I suppose you can't afford 417 00:25:37,080 --> 00:25:39,480 Speaker 2: not to be focused when you're climbing something like that, 418 00:25:39,560 --> 00:25:41,639 Speaker 2: because only one mistake, and you. 419 00:25:42,480 --> 00:25:45,240 Speaker 3: This is you know, every day I am having this 420 00:25:45,880 --> 00:25:50,199 Speaker 3: question one hundred times, and every day I am replying 421 00:25:50,320 --> 00:25:54,000 Speaker 3: because people they don't understand. They are thinking that I 422 00:25:54,040 --> 00:25:57,400 Speaker 3: don't feel fear, and I'm explaining I am the same 423 00:25:57,480 --> 00:26:02,280 Speaker 3: as any other human being. I do feel fear. But 424 00:26:02,960 --> 00:26:07,120 Speaker 3: the difference I am mastering my fear. When I am 425 00:26:07,200 --> 00:26:10,000 Speaker 3: doing something which my life is at stake, I can 426 00:26:10,160 --> 00:26:11,360 Speaker 3: put my fear. 427 00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:13,560 Speaker 4: Aside because I can't. 428 00:26:14,160 --> 00:26:19,600 Speaker 3: I can't afford to be distracted by thinking that I 429 00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:21,119 Speaker 3: may fall and I may die. 430 00:26:21,680 --> 00:26:24,000 Speaker 4: You know. All the more, when I. 431 00:26:23,920 --> 00:26:28,800 Speaker 3: Was restollowing those Third India on rocks, I was so 432 00:26:29,119 --> 00:26:33,800 Speaker 3: on the edge then I was absolute clear, no space 433 00:26:34,000 --> 00:26:38,160 Speaker 3: for any single fear because I was dealing with some 434 00:26:38,720 --> 00:26:48,400 Speaker 3: movements so precise, so interasing clear difficult. Then nothing was interfering. Yes, 435 00:26:49,480 --> 00:26:53,720 Speaker 3: LA focused on that exactly, exactly, laser focused. 436 00:26:53,960 --> 00:26:57,199 Speaker 2: Yeah, and I understand that in the military when I 437 00:26:57,280 --> 00:26:59,399 Speaker 2: used to, you know, do what I do, had to 438 00:26:59,400 --> 00:27:02,360 Speaker 2: be laser focused on the job at hand because if 439 00:27:02,440 --> 00:27:06,960 Speaker 2: not one mistake, one error, and you know, you'd be gone. 440 00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:10,639 Speaker 2: So you have to stay laser focused in those moments 441 00:27:10,640 --> 00:27:13,680 Speaker 2: because it's a matter of life or death if you've 442 00:27:13,680 --> 00:27:25,200 Speaker 2: got to get it right. Going back to the climb 443 00:27:25,240 --> 00:27:28,560 Speaker 2: in Chicago, you get to the top, you get arrested. 444 00:27:28,840 --> 00:27:31,359 Speaker 2: Do you get a buzz after that? Do you think 445 00:27:31,359 --> 00:27:34,280 Speaker 2: to yourself, right, this is what I want to do now, 446 00:27:34,359 --> 00:27:37,560 Speaker 2: I just want to go around the world. If the 447 00:27:37,640 --> 00:27:40,040 Speaker 2: people are sponsoring me, if people are paying for me 448 00:27:40,119 --> 00:27:42,879 Speaker 2: to do this, I get a buzz off of it. 449 00:27:42,920 --> 00:27:44,359 Speaker 2: This is what I want to do. This is what 450 00:27:44,400 --> 00:27:45,000 Speaker 2: I'm going to do. 451 00:27:45,080 --> 00:27:46,320 Speaker 4: I was still not at it. 452 00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:51,320 Speaker 3: Actually, I have only joined the team Sector No Limits. 453 00:27:51,720 --> 00:27:54,040 Speaker 4: You know, it's a team of the athletes. 454 00:27:53,640 --> 00:27:59,640 Speaker 3: Like some they are they are they are swimming, so Scooba, diving, well, 455 00:28:00,240 --> 00:28:04,159 Speaker 3: all that kind of stuff. And they were making a 456 00:28:04,240 --> 00:28:08,080 Speaker 3: documentary film on all of the athletes. So for me, 457 00:28:08,119 --> 00:28:12,480 Speaker 3: it was free swallowing. But except that the film director 458 00:28:12,720 --> 00:28:16,040 Speaker 3: he came with the idea that actually, this guy he 459 00:28:16,080 --> 00:28:23,280 Speaker 3: could climb some some rocks in Utah, some sandstone looks 460 00:28:23,359 --> 00:28:28,879 Speaker 3: like a bit like like like a building. And suddenly, uh, 461 00:28:29,880 --> 00:28:33,960 Speaker 3: along the way, he's falling asleep, and suddenly in his 462 00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:39,080 Speaker 3: image on those rock towers, he's shifting onto a building. 463 00:28:39,720 --> 00:28:43,000 Speaker 4: So that that was the old That was the old idea. 464 00:28:43,280 --> 00:28:46,720 Speaker 3: So so you're you're seeing me climbing something like a 465 00:28:46,800 --> 00:28:48,719 Speaker 3: Mozzy's Tower in Utah. 466 00:28:49,120 --> 00:28:50,640 Speaker 4: So it's like it. 467 00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:54,280 Speaker 3: Looks like nearly like like a World Red Center, and 468 00:28:54,320 --> 00:28:59,360 Speaker 3: then suddenly we are shifting on something very similar, except 469 00:28:59,400 --> 00:29:02,040 Speaker 3: that you are in the in the city, you can 470 00:29:02,120 --> 00:29:05,760 Speaker 3: drink whenever, and you're not like in the middle of 471 00:29:05,800 --> 00:29:06,560 Speaker 3: the desert. 472 00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:10,280 Speaker 2: And you know, and when when did you first realize 473 00:29:10,320 --> 00:29:15,080 Speaker 2: that you you had captured the world's attention, that you 474 00:29:15,160 --> 00:29:19,880 Speaker 2: were a global celebrity, that people loved watching you climb, 475 00:29:19,960 --> 00:29:24,480 Speaker 2: people supported your climbing, and you were you were shifted 476 00:29:24,480 --> 00:29:27,920 Speaker 2: into the limelight and into fame. When did you realize 477 00:29:28,040 --> 00:29:29,640 Speaker 2: that moment happened in. 478 00:29:30,880 --> 00:29:34,520 Speaker 3: Ninety four because for doing this, for doing this film, 479 00:29:35,080 --> 00:29:39,520 Speaker 3: I had to climb four different buildings, so we did 480 00:29:39,680 --> 00:29:42,480 Speaker 3: within a short period of time, well not that short, 481 00:29:42,520 --> 00:29:47,480 Speaker 3: but like maybe half here, I climbed those four buildings, 482 00:29:47,760 --> 00:29:52,200 Speaker 3: and then I realized that actually I started to get 483 00:29:52,680 --> 00:29:58,120 Speaker 3: demons for interviews every day from all over the world 484 00:29:58,200 --> 00:30:01,640 Speaker 3: and everything. So then I realized, and then I started 485 00:30:01,640 --> 00:30:05,760 Speaker 3: to get demands from people willing to sponsor me, to 486 00:30:05,960 --> 00:30:09,280 Speaker 3: pay me. So, you know, suddenly I was in a 487 00:30:09,320 --> 00:30:13,560 Speaker 3: complete different world when I was free. Following five third indeed, 488 00:30:14,000 --> 00:30:18,840 Speaker 3: I could get a very small, tiny little sponsor paying 489 00:30:18,880 --> 00:30:23,040 Speaker 3: me not much, giving me a yeah, free climbing shoes 490 00:30:23,160 --> 00:30:27,640 Speaker 3: and all that stuff. And suddenly for me, it's just 491 00:30:27,720 --> 00:30:31,760 Speaker 3: like I could make a fortune and still climbing, meaning 492 00:30:31,840 --> 00:30:35,120 Speaker 3: still doing something that I loved doing. 493 00:30:35,240 --> 00:30:37,800 Speaker 4: So that was like kind of insane. 494 00:30:38,040 --> 00:30:42,080 Speaker 3: And to be honest with you, I have known celebrity 495 00:30:42,120 --> 00:30:45,360 Speaker 3: in some places in the world that you can't even imagine, 496 00:30:45,680 --> 00:30:48,480 Speaker 3: you know. I remember in ninety six when I went 497 00:30:48,520 --> 00:30:52,840 Speaker 3: to Rio Degenero. I had been previously three times on 498 00:30:53,000 --> 00:30:59,760 Speaker 3: Fantastico Fantastical pretty much any single Brasilian watching it on 499 00:31:00,760 --> 00:31:03,080 Speaker 3: So when I arrived at the airport in. 500 00:31:03,120 --> 00:31:07,640 Speaker 4: Rio, everybody was knowing me. I was passing back. 501 00:31:07,720 --> 00:31:11,600 Speaker 3: There was buses with a full of kids ambrenare. 502 00:31:12,720 --> 00:31:13,920 Speaker 4: I didn't know. 503 00:31:15,440 --> 00:31:19,400 Speaker 3: It's just like suddenly over night, you know, I climb 504 00:31:19,440 --> 00:31:22,480 Speaker 3: in Abuddha Bie in Dubai with more than hundred a 505 00:31:22,520 --> 00:31:26,920 Speaker 3: thousands people looking at me climbing. It's like it's like 506 00:31:26,960 --> 00:31:32,000 Speaker 3: a meat Jagger concert. At the bottom, they're like watching 507 00:31:32,080 --> 00:31:32,280 Speaker 3: at you. 508 00:31:34,880 --> 00:31:37,400 Speaker 2: That's amazing, man, How did that make you feel? 509 00:31:37,680 --> 00:31:37,960 Speaker 4: Well? 510 00:31:38,400 --> 00:31:40,600 Speaker 3: It's the same, you know, at the same time when 511 00:31:40,640 --> 00:31:43,960 Speaker 3: I'm climbing, all the more if it's difficult. If it's 512 00:31:43,960 --> 00:31:46,640 Speaker 3: not difficult, I can make a show a bit. Now 513 00:31:47,600 --> 00:31:52,840 Speaker 3: I have started to understand that when when the crowd 514 00:31:53,160 --> 00:31:56,040 Speaker 3: is shouting, you know, I can hear that they are 515 00:31:56,120 --> 00:31:59,400 Speaker 3: cheering me up because you know, all all the stuff 516 00:31:59,440 --> 00:32:02,040 Speaker 3: I did for sample in the UAE or in Katar, 517 00:32:02,440 --> 00:32:06,880 Speaker 3: I did it officially, So it means that that's why 518 00:32:06,920 --> 00:32:11,360 Speaker 3: they're allowing more than hundred thousand people to come on 519 00:32:11,440 --> 00:32:16,440 Speaker 3: the spot, because it is regimented by like five hundred cups. 520 00:32:16,440 --> 00:32:19,320 Speaker 3: So I got also this kind of stuff in China. 521 00:32:20,200 --> 00:32:25,080 Speaker 3: In China having like seven hundred the militaries taking care 522 00:32:25,480 --> 00:32:28,400 Speaker 3: of me with a lot of cops and being sure 523 00:32:28,440 --> 00:32:32,480 Speaker 3: that they could manage all of the people. So those 524 00:32:32,520 --> 00:32:36,600 Speaker 3: are things that I have been living in Kazakhstan. I 525 00:32:36,680 --> 00:32:40,000 Speaker 3: have been living in Katar and many times in Dubai, 526 00:32:40,120 --> 00:32:44,960 Speaker 3: many times in a budha b in Brazil, in Caracas, 527 00:32:45,560 --> 00:32:50,560 Speaker 3: you know, in many countries, even in Moscow. In Moscow, 528 00:32:50,600 --> 00:32:55,000 Speaker 3: because that was during the Moscow Anniversary in twenty eleven, 529 00:32:56,200 --> 00:32:59,560 Speaker 3: they were doing the biggest video mapping and a burning. 530 00:32:59,720 --> 00:33:03,680 Speaker 3: I was climbing the Moscow University at night. There was 531 00:33:03,720 --> 00:33:07,760 Speaker 3: a twenty three minute films that cost fifteen million. There 532 00:33:07,800 --> 00:33:11,440 Speaker 3: was Vladimir Putin that was medve F and there was 533 00:33:11,560 --> 00:33:13,280 Speaker 3: eight hundred thousand people. 534 00:33:14,120 --> 00:33:19,800 Speaker 2: Wow, that is phenomenal. 535 00:33:17,720 --> 00:33:19,720 Speaker 4: Seeing a crowd that huge. 536 00:33:20,040 --> 00:33:23,480 Speaker 3: I am still having pictures sometimes I am posting it 537 00:33:23,560 --> 00:33:29,240 Speaker 3: because it's just like I still need to scratch my head. Yeah, 538 00:33:29,400 --> 00:33:34,880 Speaker 3: pinch yourself now nowadays, Yeah, my career is more like backwards. 539 00:33:34,920 --> 00:33:39,600 Speaker 3: But however, I am still climbing. I am on the 540 00:33:39,720 --> 00:33:43,560 Speaker 3: project of a big film, a bit like the one 541 00:33:43,600 --> 00:33:48,320 Speaker 3: like a free solo, you know, something really with money 542 00:33:48,400 --> 00:33:51,520 Speaker 3: and you know, and also you know the new generation 543 00:33:51,720 --> 00:33:57,080 Speaker 3: of material because you know, now when I'm watching all 544 00:33:57,120 --> 00:34:01,160 Speaker 3: the difficult buildings, I did twenty five years ago. The 545 00:34:01,200 --> 00:34:03,800 Speaker 3: way the way they get film was ship because the 546 00:34:04,120 --> 00:34:07,840 Speaker 3: cameras were bad. The angles were wrong because they were 547 00:34:07,880 --> 00:34:10,720 Speaker 3: at the bottom. As the good angle they are from above. 548 00:34:11,000 --> 00:34:12,920 Speaker 3: So it has to be drawn or it has to 549 00:34:12,960 --> 00:34:13,319 Speaker 3: be good. 550 00:34:14,840 --> 00:34:19,400 Speaker 2: Yeah, the angles, the long lenses, everything exactly. 551 00:34:19,520 --> 00:34:24,880 Speaker 3: So you know, it's like even in this department, the 552 00:34:25,760 --> 00:34:30,960 Speaker 3: level I shifted, like, you know, it looks like what 553 00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:33,480 Speaker 3: I was doing thirty years ago looks like well, like 554 00:34:34,000 --> 00:34:37,919 Speaker 3: Charlie chapin a movie. And what you are doing now, 555 00:34:37,960 --> 00:34:39,520 Speaker 3: it's a mission impossible. 556 00:34:39,640 --> 00:34:40,640 Speaker 2: It's completely different. 557 00:34:40,680 --> 00:34:41,279 Speaker 4: Yeah. 558 00:34:41,320 --> 00:34:43,759 Speaker 2: And and what I love about you and what you've 559 00:34:43,760 --> 00:34:48,160 Speaker 2: done for this community and what you've done for globally 560 00:34:48,680 --> 00:34:51,840 Speaker 2: is you've broken the mold when it's come when it 561 00:34:51,880 --> 00:34:55,759 Speaker 2: comes to climbing buildings, because at first it was highly illegal. 562 00:34:56,000 --> 00:34:58,360 Speaker 2: It had to be a secret operation. You know, you 563 00:34:58,440 --> 00:35:00,600 Speaker 2: had to go down at the bottom, said at first, 564 00:35:00,719 --> 00:35:02,759 Speaker 2: wait for the rain, wait for the security to go, 565 00:35:02,880 --> 00:35:07,319 Speaker 2: then climb. And you broke that mold where it became accessible. 566 00:35:07,400 --> 00:35:11,200 Speaker 2: People were granting you and you only permission to climb 567 00:35:11,200 --> 00:35:14,840 Speaker 2: this building, you know, an audience and an escort, a 568 00:35:14,920 --> 00:35:18,439 Speaker 2: police escort. You completely shattered the mold. When it came 569 00:35:18,480 --> 00:35:23,759 Speaker 2: to something being highly illegal, to something being celebrated and 570 00:35:25,280 --> 00:35:28,799 Speaker 2: put on the map and almost breaking down rules and 571 00:35:28,840 --> 00:35:33,440 Speaker 2: regulations because of what you achieved. How did that? How 572 00:35:33,440 --> 00:35:35,560 Speaker 2: does that make you feel? Now that you can you 573 00:35:35,600 --> 00:35:38,279 Speaker 2: can go wherever you want basically and go I want 574 00:35:38,280 --> 00:35:40,640 Speaker 2: to climb that structure. Anyone else they'll be like, no, 575 00:35:40,880 --> 00:35:44,640 Speaker 2: mister Allah, go ahead, you climb it. That's phenomenal, that's 576 00:35:44,680 --> 00:35:45,200 Speaker 2: really good. 577 00:35:45,360 --> 00:35:46,200 Speaker 4: It's interesting. 578 00:35:46,480 --> 00:35:49,800 Speaker 3: You know that I am in the English school books 579 00:35:50,400 --> 00:35:51,640 Speaker 3: for the primary school. 580 00:35:51,880 --> 00:35:55,320 Speaker 4: There is my story all over the world. People they are. 581 00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:58,400 Speaker 3: Learning because sometimes says, there is a lot of haters 582 00:35:58,440 --> 00:36:02,160 Speaker 3: and social medias and they are wishing me deaf. They 583 00:36:02,200 --> 00:36:04,759 Speaker 3: are you know, I got it again this morning. So 584 00:36:04,800 --> 00:36:09,759 Speaker 3: I am blocking people, but it's annoying. But sometimes I'm responding. 585 00:36:10,120 --> 00:36:14,120 Speaker 3: I am saying, well, you know that maybe because most likely, 586 00:36:14,880 --> 00:36:17,600 Speaker 3: if you're having kids, they are learning my story at 587 00:36:17,640 --> 00:36:22,000 Speaker 3: school because I am in their school books. 588 00:36:22,200 --> 00:36:24,719 Speaker 4: And whether you whether you like it or not. 589 00:36:26,040 --> 00:36:31,880 Speaker 2: I'm there. Maybe you like you or not, your children 590 00:36:32,120 --> 00:36:33,160 Speaker 2: are going to be reading about it. 591 00:36:33,200 --> 00:36:35,880 Speaker 3: I am not such a bad example. I've been invited 592 00:36:35,920 --> 00:36:38,600 Speaker 3: to the Elize Palace. I have been invited by the 593 00:36:38,719 --> 00:36:41,480 Speaker 3: King and the Queen and Malaysia, the Sheek Mahammad in 594 00:36:41,560 --> 00:36:46,759 Speaker 3: Dubai and plenty of people. I gave talks in Oxford, 595 00:36:46,920 --> 00:36:51,400 Speaker 3: I gave talks in Cambridge. I am having a statue 596 00:36:51,440 --> 00:36:54,759 Speaker 3: in China. I am featured in the book among the 597 00:36:54,840 --> 00:36:57,320 Speaker 3: Andred Greaterst Sport People from Old Time. 598 00:36:57,719 --> 00:36:59,040 Speaker 4: I wrote many books. 599 00:36:59,360 --> 00:37:02,080 Speaker 2: You know, yeah, but you push. You are the epitome 600 00:37:02,280 --> 00:37:06,480 Speaker 2: of pushing human capability and performance. You know, what is 601 00:37:06,480 --> 00:37:08,960 Speaker 2: there not to celebrate about that? It is? You know, 602 00:37:09,480 --> 00:37:14,600 Speaker 2: you talk about emotional intelligence, psychological resilience, physical robustness, capability. 603 00:37:15,040 --> 00:37:17,840 Speaker 2: Why wouldn't you push that out? Why there's such a 604 00:37:17,880 --> 00:37:20,040 Speaker 2: positive message in what you do? And listen to the 605 00:37:20,040 --> 00:37:23,239 Speaker 2: haters of the haters unfortunately that's a generational thing that 606 00:37:23,280 --> 00:37:24,560 Speaker 2: you get on social media. 607 00:37:24,760 --> 00:37:25,359 Speaker 4: Ignore them. 608 00:37:25,400 --> 00:37:29,120 Speaker 2: But when it comes to human capability and performance, you 609 00:37:29,160 --> 00:37:32,600 Speaker 2: are showing the world that we are a phenomenal, phenomenal 610 00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:36,400 Speaker 2: species and that if you put your mind to things 611 00:37:36,719 --> 00:37:40,360 Speaker 2: and you focus on things, you can achieve the impossible, 612 00:37:40,400 --> 00:37:42,960 Speaker 2: which is absolutely phenomenal. And what I love about you 613 00:37:43,040 --> 00:37:46,600 Speaker 2: as well is that you recently climbed with your son. 614 00:37:46,719 --> 00:37:49,840 Speaker 3: Yeah, yeah, we did it like pretty much two years 615 00:37:49,880 --> 00:37:54,000 Speaker 3: back and that now this coming October. 616 00:37:53,480 --> 00:37:55,040 Speaker 4: He wants to do another one with me. 617 00:37:56,120 --> 00:37:57,439 Speaker 2: And what did you climb with him? 618 00:37:57,600 --> 00:38:00,520 Speaker 3: Ah, there was an easy belding in a Barcelona We 619 00:38:00,600 --> 00:38:06,200 Speaker 3: climbed glorious tower. But you know, he has never climbed 620 00:38:06,200 --> 00:38:09,280 Speaker 3: before and more than forty four meters. But the problem 621 00:38:09,360 --> 00:38:14,560 Speaker 3: is that he didn't know how to manage his muscles 622 00:38:14,920 --> 00:38:21,000 Speaker 3: so othough he's built like Bruce Lee or small translegger, 623 00:38:21,680 --> 00:38:26,879 Speaker 3: he was completely wasted. I was telling him because we 624 00:38:26,880 --> 00:38:30,040 Speaker 3: were close to each other, and I was telling him, Look, Julian, 625 00:38:30,239 --> 00:38:34,520 Speaker 3: actually me, I am using maybe five percent of my 626 00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:39,080 Speaker 3: physical capacity and you you are using ninety five percent. 627 00:38:42,160 --> 00:38:45,320 Speaker 3: It took him, It took him ten days to recover. 628 00:38:45,640 --> 00:38:46,440 Speaker 3: Ten days. 629 00:38:46,560 --> 00:38:47,640 Speaker 4: And he's a guy. 630 00:38:48,239 --> 00:38:52,239 Speaker 3: He used to be a parashutist. He's good in any 631 00:38:52,320 --> 00:38:55,799 Speaker 3: kind of sports. But the thing is, you know, when 632 00:38:55,840 --> 00:38:59,840 Speaker 3: you are confronted with more than one of the meters 633 00:39:00,080 --> 00:39:02,200 Speaker 3: and you have never climbed before. 634 00:39:02,160 --> 00:39:04,000 Speaker 4: Then I guess the way you are. 635 00:39:04,040 --> 00:39:09,680 Speaker 3: You are you are grabbing your hords, you are pulling 636 00:39:10,000 --> 00:39:10,640 Speaker 3: far too. 637 00:39:10,520 --> 00:39:16,920 Speaker 2: Much, you are exhausting yourself exactly, you're using your legs correctly, exactly. 638 00:39:16,960 --> 00:39:19,160 Speaker 3: You're so afraid that you may for then then you 639 00:39:19,200 --> 00:39:22,920 Speaker 3: want to be absolutely sure. So you're you're you are 640 00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:26,680 Speaker 3: giving like maybe one orndd kg, which at the end 641 00:39:26,719 --> 00:39:29,280 Speaker 3: of the day maybe two kg is enough. 642 00:39:29,760 --> 00:39:33,160 Speaker 2: But of course, and again you know, there's nothing like 643 00:39:33,440 --> 00:39:36,359 Speaker 2: he's obviously got the best, the best teacher, the best 644 00:39:36,400 --> 00:39:39,360 Speaker 2: mentor because when it comes to experience like that, it 645 00:39:39,520 --> 00:39:42,160 Speaker 2: is it's about knowing your body. It's about knowing how 646 00:39:42,200 --> 00:39:45,239 Speaker 2: to control your emotions and to use them to your advantage. 647 00:39:45,320 --> 00:39:48,360 Speaker 2: Like you said, putting yourself up, that's going to exhaust you. 648 00:39:48,440 --> 00:39:50,799 Speaker 2: If you keep doing that, you've got to just you know, 649 00:39:50,800 --> 00:39:53,600 Speaker 2: know what you're doing, use all your bodies, you know, 650 00:39:53,680 --> 00:39:56,400 Speaker 2: try and try and conserve the energty to get up 651 00:39:56,440 --> 00:40:00,000 Speaker 2: to the top. And I've absolutely loved chatting with you. 652 00:40:00,080 --> 00:40:02,840 Speaker 2: It's been absolutely phenomenal. You are, like I said, the 653 00:40:02,880 --> 00:40:06,560 Speaker 2: epitome of human capability and performance. And what is next 654 00:40:06,719 --> 00:40:09,279 Speaker 2: for you? What's happening now? 655 00:40:09,560 --> 00:40:10,520 Speaker 4: Next for me? You know? 656 00:40:10,719 --> 00:40:14,480 Speaker 3: Now I am redoing my visa, so it's gonna take 657 00:40:14,560 --> 00:40:17,440 Speaker 3: like another two months. It's going to be a permanent 658 00:40:17,960 --> 00:40:21,960 Speaker 3: resident visa in Indonesia. Then I will be honest traveling 659 00:40:22,880 --> 00:40:26,200 Speaker 3: in October. There would be the release of my new book. 660 00:40:26,680 --> 00:40:30,000 Speaker 3: I'll be climbing as well in Europe. I'll be climbing 661 00:40:30,000 --> 00:40:36,040 Speaker 3: on rocks in Verdon and also we start working on 662 00:40:36,680 --> 00:40:37,520 Speaker 3: a big film. 663 00:40:38,400 --> 00:40:43,440 Speaker 2: Wow, I can't wait. It's been absolutely phenomenal talking to you, 664 00:40:43,520 --> 00:40:45,879 Speaker 2: my man. I love your energy. You're one of these 665 00:40:45,960 --> 00:40:49,400 Speaker 2: rare people that I can feel your energy through the screen. 666 00:40:49,920 --> 00:40:53,440 Speaker 2: You know, it's great, mate. Thank you so much for 667 00:40:53,520 --> 00:40:56,800 Speaker 2: coming on head Game and listen. I look forward to 668 00:40:56,880 --> 00:40:59,759 Speaker 2: reading your new book and look forward especially to the 669 00:40:59,800 --> 00:41:00,960 Speaker 2: new film that's coming out. 670 00:41:01,160 --> 00:41:03,719 Speaker 4: Thank you mate, Thanks a lot. That was a great pleasure. 671 00:41:04,920 --> 00:41:07,920 Speaker 2: Thank you so much for joining me on Headgame. If 672 00:41:07,920 --> 00:41:10,960 Speaker 2: you enjoyed this episode, make sure you're subscribed so you 673 00:41:11,000 --> 00:41:13,960 Speaker 2: don't miss any of our incredible stories and leave me 674 00:41:14,040 --> 00:41:18,600 Speaker 2: a review wherever you're listening. I'm Matt Middleton. Catch you 675 00:41:18,640 --> 00:41:19,759 Speaker 2: again next time.